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View Full Version : Best shelters in GSMNP



valleyfire
08-23-2008, 11:52
I am trying to plan whick shelters to stay at in between clingman's Dome and Gregory's Bald. Mainly care about water source and views. Thanks in advance.

CrumbSnatcher
08-23-2008, 12:25
the best shelter in the smokies? is the one i just hiked away from:rolleyes:

ken209
08-23-2008, 13:09
I am trying to plan whick shelters to stay at in between clingman's Dome and Gregory's Bald. Mainly care about water source and views. Thanks in advance.
How many nights are you planning on?

Bearpaw
08-23-2008, 13:40
All the shelters in that area had decent water in late May except Mollies Ridge which was very slow, and I believe is now dry.

Spence Field offers nice views up to Rocky Top/Thunderhead, though the shelter is tucked away into the trees another .2 miles.

My favorite shelter through there is Derrick Knob, one of many with the new style kitchen area and porched roof.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/GSMNP%20AT%20May%2008/013a.jpg

The plexi-glass opened roof provides MUCH more light than most shelters where you're in dim to dark conditions during the day.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/GSMNP%20AT%20May%2008/014a.jpg

Double Spring Gap and Russell Field still use the old chain-link front without the kitchen area and its protecting roof.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/bearpawat99/GSMNP%20AT%20Jul%2008/027a.jpg

These can be pretty depressing and tend to be mice ridden because people cook inside during bad weather. Mice have not been a problem for me on the sleeping platforms in the newer porched versions.

Be advised that most of the shelters on the stretch you're looking at do NOT have privies, but they DO have full-sized spades for digging in the "toilet area", usually marked by many white paper flags conveniently sticking out of the ground...:(

As you approach the side trail down to Gregory, I will say that Mollies Ridge is a much nicer shelter than Russell Field and would recommend it if the spring is flowing.

valleyfire
08-23-2008, 21:02
How many nights are you planning on?

We are hiking three nights. Starting on clingman's dome and ending in Cades Cove

valleyfire
08-23-2008, 21:03
In that stretch of the the trail is there alot of views of the valleys, can you see Cades Cove from the trail?

Bearpaw
08-23-2008, 23:33
In that stretch of the the trail is there alot of views of the valleys, can you see Cades Cove from the trail?

If the weather is good, then Clingman's offers 360 degree views from the tower. You're have several sectional views in the first 2-3 miles. Much of Thunderhead Mountain offers good views, especially the western peak (Rocky Top). From Rocky Top, you can clearly see Cades Cove if the weather is good. You can also get great views from Gregory's Bald.

ken209
08-24-2008, 15:42
We are hiking three nights. Starting on clingman's dome and ending in Cades Cove
Here is what i would do, 1st nite Derrick Knob shelter, 2nd nite Russell Field ( old shelter), you could push on to Mollies Ridge shelter, as of now no water, 3rd nite Sheep Pen campsite, no shelter there. You will be doing about 9 miles a day.

map man
08-24-2008, 20:31
As of five days ago (Aug. 19, 2008) Mt. Collins and Russell Field shelters were temporarily closed due to bear activity, according to the Backcountry Information Office at GSMNP. So it is worth your while to give them a call (865-436-1297; open 9am-1pm daily, but it is staffed by volunteers so it can be hit and miss whether you reach anyone) shortly before you start your hike. That's what I plan to do for my hike through the park starting Sept. 16.

smokymtnsteve
08-24-2008, 23:08
Spence Field ..whose that coming up eagle hollow and what did u say his name wuz?

TwoForty
08-24-2008, 23:23
I currently like Derrick Knob because the roof is as close to crystal clear as a shelter roof can get.
Spence is probably my all around fav though, although Mollies is cool because its on the top of a ridge, not the side.

Tennessee Viking
08-24-2008, 23:34
Haven't spent a night in the smokies...but last I heard Mt Collins is closed. But it looks like it has been re-opened.

Mollies Ridge is listed as dry.

Here is copy&paste list of areas with high bear activity from all over the park:
• Gabes Mountain Trail
• Laurel Falls Trail
• Rabbit Creek Trail
• Ramsey Cascades Trail
• West Prong Trail
• Mount Collins Shelter
• Russell Field Shelter
• Tricorner Knob Shelter
• Backcountry Campsites #12, #16, #52 and #113

valleyfire
08-26-2008, 14:52
Are any of the side trails around that area ones that I shouldn't miss.

valleyfire
08-26-2008, 14:53
Here is what i would do, 1st nite Derrick Knob shelter, 2nd nite Russell Field ( old shelter), you could push on to Mollies Ridge shelter, as of now no water, 3rd nite Sheep Pen campsite, no shelter there. You will be doing about 9 miles a day.

Thank you that sounds like a great schedule

Mocs123
12-02-2008, 14:25
Double Springs has just been redone and the bear fence removed. I pushed on to Spence Field, but it looked nice as I passed.

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/43788/2879705800086983979S600x600Q85.jpg

Pony
12-02-2008, 15:28
Wow that looks like quite the improvement. Last spring I stayed there during a pretty nasty thunderstorm. As I was getting ready for bed I was reading in my companion only to find out that two hikers were struck by lightning and killed there in 1980. I quickly moved to the bottom.

The next night I stayed at Peck's Corner during an awesome hail storm. It was truly amazing, and the next morning there was so much hail on the ground that it looked like snow.

Sly
12-02-2008, 16:25
The old style shelters with the fenced in front are depressing. Nice photos there, Bearpaw.

Plodderman
12-02-2008, 16:43
Double Springs is greatly improved now and but the last time I was there we just skipped and went on to Silers Bald. A Ranger told me they removing all the fence from the shelters as people were leaving food out trying to draw bears while keeping the gate secured.

Anyways it is a great improvement. Water has been a problem in the Smokies the last couple of years but calling ahead will help you plan and make reservations.

Mocs123
12-02-2008, 17:11
I think the only ones left with the bear fences are:

Mt Collins (to be redone in 2009)
Russell Field (to be redone in 2010)
Davenport Gap

mudhead
12-02-2008, 17:44
A Ranger told me they removing all the fence from the shelters as people were leaving food out trying to draw bears while keeping the gate secured.

A

Was this Rangerspeak? You know, park bs to get projects done?

Sly
12-02-2008, 18:26
I think the only ones left with the bear fences are:

Mt Collins (to be redone in 2009)
Russell Field (to be redone in 2010)
Davenport Gap

if I'm not mistaken Davenport Gap was redone years ago.

Yup, here's a pic...

http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=29347&c=565

Bearpaw
12-02-2008, 19:01
if I'm not mistaken Davenport Gap was redone years ago.

Yup, here's a pic...

http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=29347&c=565

But if you look closely, you can still see the chain link fence and doorway. It was given the newer overhead windows to provide more interior light, but the fence was still there as late as January '07 any way, the last time we were there.

Sly
12-02-2008, 19:05
But if you look closely, you can still see the chain link fence and doorway. It was given the newer overhead windows to provide more interior light, but the fence was still there as late as January '07 any way, the last time we were there.

Oh right. Wonder why they did that? Maybe they need to put cables in place

Bearpaw
12-02-2008, 19:24
Oh right. Wonder why they did that? Maybe they need to put cables in place

I'm pretty sure cables were in place on my last visit. I think it's the actual ground in front of the shelter that poses the problem. The other shelters have very long porched roofs and all food and food crumbs stay well forward of the sleeping area.

At Davenport Gap, the ground drops off fairly quickly right in front of the shelter. By the time you reach the kitchen area distance, the ground is about 3 feet lower than the ground at the shelter entrance. They could rig a roof and kitchen area, but it would take some interesting engineering. I think right now, the intention is simply to fence it because hikers will want to cook inside the sleeping area during bad weather.

Joey
12-04-2008, 00:19
Though off of the AT, Laurel Gap still has the old fence too! Tri-Corner and Mollies my two favorites even though they are at each end of the park. Tir-COrner is really nice. Last time I was there a big balsam tree just missed the backside of the shelter. Have they since cut it away from the shelter?

Mocs123
12-04-2008, 00:44
I forgot about Laurel Gap on the BMT.

Joey
12-04-2008, 00:50
I actually like the shelter but hate the heck out of the water source location. After a long day of pretty much uphill, then you have to walk forever to get water and then climb out of that hole. But really not that bad. Prolly gonna head there when it gets some really good snowfalls. Climbing all of the sixers for the second time and have to get about 8 of them in that area of the park.

Plodderman
12-06-2008, 14:44
Mudhead I do not know, he seemed like a nice guy and did not seem to be to gungho but pretty laid back. Like many agencies if it happens once it is an epidemic. But he seemed to be a straight shooter to me.

sliderule
12-07-2008, 11:38
Oh right. Wonder why they did that? Maybe they need to put cables in place

Because of its easy access, Daenport Gap was chosen as the first GSMNP shelter to be revamped. At that time, there had been no thoughts of changing the "fence" policy, so the front of the shelter was enclosed with chain link.

The second shelter to be updated was Icewater Springs. Interestingly, a fence was originally included in its planned upgrade and a roll of chain link fence material, etc., was airlifted to the site along with the other construction materials. Subsequent to the airlift, the decision was made to do away with the fences at the shelters, so the Icewater fence was not installed, nor have any of the subsequent renovations included fences. The logic was that the fences encouraged poor hiker behavior with regard to bears. (With the safety of the fence, hikers would be more inclined to feed bears, etc.)

Rambler
12-07-2008, 12:27
Spence Field: Where is Gregory's Bald? From Clingsman, circle back to Fontana via Forney Ridge and a variety of choices. I had tent sites to myself in August. Shelters north of Newfound Gap are fine. the Old settlers trail is a nice meandeer through the woods.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2851381680045831896PiPsQP

Chappy
02-02-2009, 23:53
Was this Rangerspeak? You know, park bs to get projects done?

No, we've had many, many incidents of hikers feeding the bears through the fence. Now if you wnat to feed a bear you take your chances. ;)

Rockhound
02-03-2009, 11:49
[quote=buliwyf;687756] been re-opened.



Here is copy&paste list of areas with high bear activity from all over the park:


It's bad enough having to deal with regular bear activity. Now you tell me the bears are on drugs too?! This "high bear" activity has got to stop. At least they should start sharing their stash.

Bear Cables
03-13-2009, 18:20
[quote=buliwyf;687756] been re-opened.



Here is copy&paste list of areas with high bear activity from all over the park:


It's bad enough having to deal with regular bear activity. Now you tell me the bears are on drugs too?! This "high bear" activity has got to stop. At least they should start sharing their stash.


Funny:banana

stranger
03-18-2009, 22:40
The best shelter in the smokies for me is my tent or tarp, after the shelters are full, a good reason to do long days in the Smokies, but saying that, many of the shelters are heaps better than they used to be with the old chained linked fence! Some still exist however.

vtsoutherner
06-29-2009, 22:40
Planning on a trip in early August and staying in the following shelters... anyone have recent information (water, bears, hangs, etc.) about:
- Spence Field
- Silers Bald or Double Spring gap
- icewater
- tricorner knob

Thanks for anything you can give me.

OldStormcrow
06-30-2009, 14:35
I used to like Derricks Knob in the winter. Silers Bald was always a smelly pit. I miss Birch Springs Shelter that was torn down, but I guess it was just too close to Fontana and was often a hangout for drunk townies and poachers.

veteran
07-02-2009, 14:18
I miss Birch Springs Shelter that was torn down, but I guess it was just too close to Fontana and was often a hangout for drunk townies and poachers.

That old place was sorta run down.

http://www.trailgallery.com/photos/1606/04%2D16%20shelter.jpg

DanSea
07-03-2009, 07:59
icewater had an amazing sunrise view, water and bear cables.

Bear Cables
07-08-2009, 12:49
Planning on a trip in early August and staying in the following shelters... anyone have recent information (water, bears, hangs, etc.) about:
- Spence Field
- Silers Bald or Double Spring gap
- icewater
- tricorner knob

Thanks for anything you can give me.

We hiked last month and stayed at Spence Field and Double Springs, stopped for water at Silers Bald. All three are the remodeld shelters and the water sources were good. There is a bit of a downhill walk to the water at Silers and Spence but the water at Double springs in right in front of the shelter. All of these had plenty of bear cables.