View Full Version : Davenport Gap to Erwin TN
sheepdog
09-05-2008, 08:52
I have an unexpected chance to hike from Davenport Gap to Erwin TN. I will be starting September 24th. Could any of you that know that section give me some advice? How is the water, a good place to stay at Hot Springs, what not to miss, good little side trips.......??
Also I need a shuttle from Erwin to Johnson City.
Thanks for your help and maybe I can see you on the trail.
Sheepdog
wilconow
09-05-2008, 09:17
I have an unexpected chance to hike from Davenport Gap to Erwin TN. I will be starting September 24th. Could any of you that know that section give me some advice? How is the water, a good place to stay at Hot Springs, what not to miss, good little side trips.......??
Also I need a shuttle from Erwin to Johnson City.
Thanks for your help and maybe I can see you on the trail.
Sheepdog
I pretty much did that last year, minus like 10 miles.. Spivey Gap to Standing Bear. No idea what the water is like now but last Spring, there was about a 10 mile dry section around Jerry Cabin.
Hot Springs - Elmer's, or the Alpine Motel were fine
not to miss - Rich Mountain Fire tower.. just off the AT, but not particularly well signed.. oh yeah, also about 15 miles north of Hot Springs is a hostel off of Log Cabin Rd I believe it is, .5 from the trail. They have lots of food and stuff. If you're going north it may not be worth the side trip, since you just got out of Hot Springs
It's a beautiful section. A bunch of photos from it is in my gallery
Gray Blazer
09-05-2008, 09:49
Don't miss the very short side trip to the Camp Creek Bald tower. One of the best views on the trail. On a clear day you can see the AT route from the Smokies to Roan. You can also see Mt. Mitchell and the Blacks. Rich Mountain tower would make a good shelter as it still has its basic building, roof and floor and is open. Pics in my WB gallery. Nice camping spot at Big Flat on Cold Lick Knob with good AM views of sunrise over AT route from Big Bald to Roan.
wilconow
09-05-2008, 10:05
Yeah I forgot about Camp Creek Bald. If I remember correctly, there was no road leading up there (maybe ATV access though) but Rich Mountain had a dirt road.. so that's something you may want to think about when camping.. especially if it's a weekend.
sheepdog
09-05-2008, 11:12
Thanks guys....keep them coming.
In Hot Springs there is a little market just a stones throw from Elmer's. They stock a few steaks and ground chuck patties as well as fresh fruit and veggies. I had a nice little cookout on the veranda at Elmer's after visiting the market.
Tennessee Viking
09-05-2008, 14:28
I was just up at Rich Mtn last week, completely dry. But offers a good campsite on the trail. And open fire tower. There were some berries, but they were about to turn. I ran into a couple sectioners there and they reported that the pond was the only water north of Hot Springs. Also, I did drive by a bear below Hurricane Gap.
Bear warnings from Max Patch to Hot Springs. Walnut Mtn and Roaring Creek have been getting visited by Jumper the Tree Climbing and Tree Jumping bear. Also tends to think that hikers in hammocks are food bags.
The Allen Gap to Devils Fork Gap can be dry on the ridgetop. Only good water sources would be near Flint Mtn Shelter or the climb up Sugarloaf. Water is a little more available down on the weather routes. But the open ridge top north of Camp Creek is quite impressive. The Camp Creek Tower was locked down, razor wire and pad lock, when I was last up there.
Big Bald you can sneak into Wolf Laurel and find a garden hose.
I am in Johnson City, PM me your itinerary.
Just got back from my trip. I started at Standing Bear Farm with the intention of staying at Groundhog Creek shelter. About a mile in, I found an entire pack's worth of gear in the middle of the trail. I called out and the sleeping bag burst to life. It was a woman in her late 40's that the shuttle driver had actually told me about earlier. She was asleep in the middle of the trail at 10am. She's harmless, but a little bit off. She speaks in abbreviations and acronyms. For example: "I've been NC and TN and there's no aqua H2o at the shelter next."
She had some water and there wasn't any way that I could assist her so I apologized for startling her and moved on. Saw a few good flowing springs along the trail so I figured water was OK. Got to Groundhog creek and it was dry as a bone. I hiked about a half mile down from the shelter and found nothing but stinging nettles.
I had most of a liter left, so I pushed on. I was dry a few miles later and actually stopped sweating by the time I got to Max Patch. I sat down next to the gravel road leading up to the parking lot wondering what the heck I was going to do when two cars came by. I held up my empty water bag and waved and the drivers gave me a liter of water and a gatorade. day hikers rock! Of course, just to make me feel like a dummy, as soon as I walked across the road I found a perfect creek and filtered 3 liters.
When I got on top of Max I was exhausted. The sun was almost set and I didn't want to night hike. I had done thirteen and it had kicked my tail. I set up my tarp and tied off to one of the trail markers. Sure enough, I got out of the tarp just to stretch and saw two huge bears about 40 yards away where two guys were having a picnic earlier. The lumbering oafs began mosying my way and I grabbed all of my stuff. I stuffed what I could in my pack and balled up my tarp, sleeping bag, ground sheet and pad in my arms. threw on my headlamp and hauled tail with all of my stuff balled up. hiked a half mile continually looking over my shoulder before I stumbled on some nice folks with a wonderfully hyper chocolate lab. Slept sound there. In the panic, the wind made off with a stuff sack with some socks. I feel terrible that it's out there and spent time looking for it the next day to no avail.
Yesterday I woke up and planned to stay at Walnut Mtn. Met two folks who stayed there the night before and they said that a big ol bear came into the shelter like he lived there and nosed around their packs despite their protests. After this, the bear went and made quick work of the bear cables. Plans changed again when I got to Walnut and saw a giant black butt high tailing it out of the woods when I walked past. I decided to challenge myself and do the 21 miles to Hot Springs. My left foot it still swollen, but it was a good trip. Make sure to bring a map, because some of the trails split off and there aren't easy to see blazes after Max Patch. You can tell that other folks have been making the same mistakes because the side trails are beat down for 50 yards or so after the split. A few of the relocations are hard to distinguish too. But, it was a great trip and a good challenging hike. Have fun!!!
Yeah, I did that section from Standing Bear to Hot Springs in May. The bear(s) were active then too. I personally did not see any, but a couple I met at Elmer's had their food bags relieved from them about 5 miles out of Hot Springs. It was one bear then, so maybe he's training a replacement! That section from Roaring Creek to Hot Springs is fairly dry. Make sure you have enough water, do not pass any water sources. I was not passing a cool color by the time I got to Hot Springs. For some reason that section from Standing Bear to Roaring Springs was killer for me too.
sheepdog
09-09-2008, 07:40
Thanks for all the info.
bigcranky
09-09-2008, 08:22
We did that section in March '07, so I can't help you with the current water situation. But here are some things we liked:
Hot Springs: Stay at Elmer's if possible. Have dinner there, too. For resupply, check the store across the street (Dollar General?) before you hit the outfitter. It's way cheaper and has most of what you'll need. The outfitter is great if you need gear or just want to ogle the latest stuff.
I would cowboy camp on Max Patch if at all possible. Big Bald is nice, too, but the shelter is right over the edge and has plenty of camping room nearby. No Business Knob shelter was a pit, but you'll probably skip it anyway on the way down to Erwin.
Should be a nice time of year for this section -- cool enough to enjoy it without being too cold. As long as there is water, no worries at all. Have fun.
Gray Blazer
09-09-2008, 10:54
I keep going to Big Bald to camp and get sunrise pics, but, it is always foggy in the AM when I'm there. Maybe some day......
If you are hiking north from Big Bald on a Sat AM you might run into the hermit of Little Bald, a nice guy who lives down that Blue Blaze north of the shelter.
sheepdog
09-14-2008, 15:06
Thanks for all the replies. Anyone got a phone number or e-mail for Elmers in Hot springs?
Elmer's Sunnybank Inn 26 Walnut St, Hot Springs NC 828-622-7206
Note- Elmer's is vegetarian only so don't expect to get a steak :-)
sheepdog
09-14-2008, 18:11
Elmer's Sunnybank Inn 26 Walnut St, Hot Springs NC 828-622-7206
Note- Elmer's is vegetarian only so don't expect to get a steak :-)
Is chicken a vegetable? :)
I will be on my best herbavore behavior.
Thanks
Sheepdog
bigcranky
09-14-2008, 20:05
Yeah but the meals are spectacular, and the company is always good.
sheepdog
09-14-2008, 20:41
Hopefully recent rains will help the water situation.
Is chicken a vegetable? :)
I will be on my best herbavore behavior.
Thanks
Sheepdog
:-? Chickens eat corn, so maybe. I was a faux vegan during my stay:rolleyes: Like Big Cranky said the meals are spectacular, I promise you won't leave the table hungry. A word of advice, don't be late or Elmer will frown upon you.
Elmer likes to ask a question at dinner, it can be most anything, it's fun and everyone is expected to participate.
Tennessee Viking
09-15-2008, 00:03
I keep going to Big Bald to camp and get sunrise pics, but, it is always foggy in the AM when I'm there. Maybe some day......
If you are hiking north from Big Bald on a Sat AM you might run into the hermit of Little Bald, a nice guy who lives down that Blue Blaze north of the shelter.I heard of old Hermit Greer and his hogs that lived up there a long time ago. But is there really a hermit living up there?
If you have time, check out Big Stamp. Its down an the dirt road on the left going NOBO. Big Bald has really colorful sunsets.
Gray Blazer
09-15-2008, 07:34
I heard of old Hermit Greer and his hogs that lived up there a long time ago. But is there really a hermit living up there?
If you have time, check out Big Stamp. Its down an the dirt road on the left going NOBO. Big Bald has really colorful sunsets.
He's a nice guy that I've run into twice now. He calls himself the Hermit of Little Bald. He lives in a house down that trail that goes to the nice spring north of the shelter. He told me once that he maintains the log at the shelter. There is a good pic of him in my WB photo gallery.
dansforest
10-20-2008, 23:48
Is horse creek a rough road? we were thinking about dropping water up there.
Tennessee Viking
10-21-2008, 00:32
yup. Its steep & rocky. I would only hike it or use horseback.
It has a low maintenance schedule. And is only worked on shortly before the Shelton Grave dedication.
By the way, lots of bear signs along the road.