View Full Version : Favorite weekend trip in the Whites?
WetBottom
09-06-2008, 19:44
I'm looking for some suggestions for some good weekend trips in the White Mountains.
It would be my first real backpacking experience. I have a moderate amount of hiking experience, and plenty of out-of-car camping experience. New to backpacking. So keep that in mind.
So, I figure a days worth of hiking to a campsite, and a days worth of hiking back to my car.
Also, any tips on backpacking etiquette would be nice as well. I hate looking like a jerk because I do something I don't know any better about.
peakbagger
09-06-2008, 21:03
Do yourself a favor and hook up with the bunch from viewsfromthetop.com. It is a new england based hiking websites with lots of good info.
The unfortunate reality in the whites is that all the good beginner weekend backpacker trips tend to have a lot of use especially at the shelters. The use is a lot less now that its past labor day, but still plan to tent rather than use a shelter. Alternatively shift your schedule and get hiking early in the morning , so that you are ahead of the crowd. There also tends to be a correlation on how close to Boston the hike is and how many people are on the trail I.E. Evans notch and the Kilkennys get a lot less use than the Pemi.
Its pretty easy to pick up the AMC guide and dependent upon your condition. plan 6 hours of backpacking using the 2 miles per hour, 1/2 hour per 1000 feet vertical rule. Stay away from the AT (due to its popularity) and you should be good to go. Make sure that you read the various rules for where you can and can not camp in the the AMC guide.
If you dont want to camp at an official campsite, plant o end up down low in the valleys, generally once you pick up some elevation, the terrain gets a lot more difficult to find a good campsite.
Your first trip should be a short in and out mostly to shake down your gear and your overnight technique. If you do plan to stay at established sites, work on your bearbagging techniques, even though most of the folks that are staying there wont be doing it right, at least you will have breakfast.
As for etiquette, if you decide to camp at a shelter, you have the right to claim the space that your sleeping pad covers, anything beyond that is common space that could be claimed by others.
As for places to go, the Dry river area has a lot of options for camping and is some nice terrain. Lots of nice places in the Pemi (but watch the camping regs). A bit of a drive, but a real nice place for a shakedown hike is a hike into Unknown Pond in the Kilkennys with a loop over to Rogers ledge and back out to the hatchery. Gentian Pond in the Mahoosucs gets a lot of use but its worth it. If you are in really good shape, a hike up to Guyot Shelter from Lincoln and back out is a most do (but given the shelters elevation it gets cold up there at night in the fall)
Good luck
Slo-go'en
09-06-2008, 22:33
The RMC (Randolph Mt Club) cabins are good places to go for a quick overnight, though a long weekend is better. Craig camp and Gray Knob are both fully enclosed buildings (Crag camp looks like a ski lodge) while The Perch is a classic lean-to and tent platforms. All three are just below tree line on Mt Adams and are good staging points for going up Mt Adams, Jefferson and Madison. I belive Crag and Gray Knob cost $12.00 a night, and the perch $6.00, first come first served.
These camps are about a 3.5 mile hike, but strenous, expect it to take up to 4 hours to get there with a pack, maybe longer.
Another place I like to go is "unknown pond" - its a bit out of the way and not easy to find the trail head, but a reasonably easy hike up to. Its near Mt Cabot. There are only tent sites there. There is also a cabin on Mt Cabot, but that peak is a little hard to get to these days. A land owner closed the access to the easy way up a few years ago.
All in all, there are probably close to 1000 mles of hiking trails in the White Mountains, and its pretty easy to find places not too many people go to and easy to find places where everyone goes to.
EAnderson
09-06-2008, 23:05
The RMC (Randolph Mt Club) cabins are good places to go for a quick overnight, though a long weekend is better. Craig camp and Gray Knob are both fully enclosed buildings (Crag camp looks like a ski lodge) while The Perch is a classic lean-to and tent platforms. All three are just below tree line on Mt Adams and are good staging points for going up Mt Adams, Jefferson and Madison. I belive Crag and Gray Knob cost $12.00 a night, and the perch $6.00, first come first served.
These camps are about a 3.5 mile hike, but strenous, expect it to take up to 4 hours to get there with a pack, maybe longer.
Another place I like to go is "unknown pond" - its a bit out of the way and not easy to find the trail head, but a reasonably easy hike up to. Its near Mt Cabot. There are only tent sites there. There is also a cabin on Mt Cabot, but that peak is a little hard to get to these days. A land owner closed the access to the easy way up a few years ago.
All in all, there are probably close to 1000 mles of hiking trails in the White Mountains, and its pretty easy to find places not too many people go to and easy to find places where everyone goes to.
I second (or third) Unknown Pond. It is a great site, and the Horn is a great view. The northern access from Stark avoids the land dispute, and might be the closest to the campsite.
My first BP was a trip to the Bonds. Stayed at the Guyot campsite, and had perfect weather. We came in from Zealand and went out Gale River Trail. The view from West Bond at Sunset is hard to beat.
Any of the trails leading off the Kancamagus Highway. For solitude, take one of the trails south of the highway. You can make up all kinds of loops, and camp freely.
Pokey2006
09-07-2008, 02:23
Unfortunately, most trails in the Whites also include loooong uphill climbs, and are quite often very steep -- not the best conditions if all you're doing is testing out your gear and your ability to carry a heavy pack.
I'd recommend starting out at Lincoln Woods off the Kanc, and hiking up to the 13 Falls campsite. I haven't been to it, but I've heard it's nice. I do know the hike to the campsite is fairly level, and not too difficult.
Like Terrapin said, the trails to the south of the Kanc will be a little less crowded. There's some nice hiking in the Sandwich range, and more relaxed camping regulations. There are even a couple designated campsites/shelters.
FWIW -- it's been about 25 years since I did this one -- the trail between 13 Falls and the Kanc is looong (9 miles, as I recall,) dead flat, and boring.
We spent the day day trudging toward the road, by foot, with heavy packs, while kids on mountain bikes zipped past us... in both directions.
Lawn Sale
09-07-2008, 08:05
When I started hiking again I did a shakedown hike/camp at Acadia. T had 3 packs, 2 tents, sleeping bags, and shoes to try. I setup camp, then decided what I'd bring, packing it into a pack. I chose a 4 mile stretch of trail and took a combination of packs and shoes. I'd do the stretch with one pack, take everything out when I was done, then do it again with another pack. When I found the one that was most comfortable, I setup camp and only used what was in the pack, but I had the car nearby. I wrote out a list of what I needed and got it at the end of the weekend. I chose one tent over the other as one didn't breathe well, but looked better and was free-standing. Just something to consider trying, finding out you need something while 10 miles into the woods could suck, to say the least.
What is left on your list of stuff to get?
knicksin2010
09-07-2008, 14:35
NH25 (Glencliff, NH) - Beaver Brook shelter. It's 7.9 miles takes you over Moosilake the easier way. Although it's not an easy hike. You could Park at the Hiker's Welcome Hostel (just trail east). The shelter would be free. Parking would be a few bucks
Homer&Marje
09-07-2008, 16:02
Look south of the Kancamangus Highway, there is a trail that leads to Three Ponds Shelter, and a big loop trail around it, 3 days it's only like 14 miles.
WetBottom
09-07-2008, 19:25
Wow. Lots of suggestions.
For our first time out, I'm not sure the trail being crowded would be a bad thing. There would probably be more experienced people to help us figure out how and where to camp. Camping at a shelter seems like an easy choice, are you just allowed to put your tent anywhere flat? I know some have tent platforms, but if they are full?
I have the AMC book about the Presidentials, and it says you can camp anywhere within WMNF, is it obvious when you're in these woods as opposed to woods you cannot camp??
I know these are probably very naive questions, but I've never been out hiking with the intention of camping, so I never really paid attention.
Do the trailheads of the Kancamagus have parking lots?
WetBottom
09-07-2008, 19:28
Lawn Sale- still on the search for a tent I can afford. Need a two person tent. May try ebay. Other than that, just waiting on some things in the mail, and probably should dig through my clothes to see if I have a wool sweater or something.
Blissful
09-07-2008, 22:06
Explore the Pemigawasset Wilderness area and do some loops around there. I have never been in the southern areas (south of Kancamagus), but it looks more tame than the north and with lots of ponds, etc.
There is a HUGE parking lot off Kangamagus at a place called Lincoln Woods. You do have to pay to park. And there are no trash cans anywhere, so carry in, carry out.
Usually the no camping areas are near AMC huts and campsite fee areas and above treeline. They are posted.
Blissful
09-07-2008, 22:14
Lawn Sale- still on the search for a tent I can afford. Need a two person tent. May try ebay. Other than that, just waiting on some things in the mail, and probably should dig through my clothes to see if I have a wool sweater or something.
Wool is too heavy for backpacking. Try layers like polypropylene (like Duofold underwear I have seen these cheap at places like Rugged Warehouse) and pick up a polyester fleece over layer, available at most stores now. Don't forget the hat and gloves. Also check out Sierra Trading Post (http://www.sierratradingpost.com)which has a good sale going on now.
Pokey2006
09-07-2008, 22:25
The pay-to-park areas, which are part of the White Mountain National Forest, are $3 a day. Bring enough one dollar bills for the self-pay kiosk. Non-WMNF lots, like the state-owned Franconia/Liberty Springs trailhead, are generally free. If you don't see the self-pay kiosk, I'd assume it was free. I do think most of the parking on the Kanc is WMNF, though there is free parking on the southern side of the Sandwich Range.
Yeah, Lincoln Woods to 13 Falls might be a little boring, but for a beginner backpacker, that might be a good thing. I'd just hate to see you scrambling up some rocky slide with a heavy pack on your first backpack experience.
Why not try the Berkshires, as well? I know that's sacrilage for Bostonians to say, but it takes about the same amount of time to get there, maybe just a tad longer, than it is to get to the Whites. And there's some nice hiking out there.
WetBottom
09-07-2008, 23:38
I love the Berkshires, I must've not gotten the sacrilage notice. :) But it's actually about a full hours drive further for me, which means two hours more of driving for a 1 night trip. Which matters, I think. But not out of the question I guess... Any great weekend trips in the Berkshires you'd recommend?
I do know my way around the Berkshires better, and have hiked a bunch of the area in day hikes. So, maybe it's not a bad idea to test out our gear in the more familiar.
We used one of those pay-to-park areas when we went up Moosilauke. It seems a little odd that you leave a little yellow thing on your dashboard stating how long your car will be abandoned for, but luckily I own nothing worth stealing, and a drive a Hyundai. :)
For what it's worth, the AT in Massachusetts is pleasant and mostly quite easy. It's also fairly easy to get on and off of. Closer to Boston, there's the MA Mid-State trail, which has its moments. The Mid-State would be good for a "beginner" in having very modest verticals -- the highest peak is Mt. Wachussett (or maybe Watatic, at the north end.) It's also easy to camp on. Some photos and a diary of the Mid-State here (http://www.terrapinphoto.com/cpg143/thumbnails.php?album=9).
The Mid-State has a bit of a "spiritual" connection to the AT; Benton MacKaye's hometown (Shirley, MA) is near the trail (at the north end) and Benton spent a lot of time as a kid, scouting the hills in that neighborhood.
WetBottom
09-07-2008, 23:56
I've never even been to the mid-state trail. Can you camp on it?
We hiked a peice of the AT in MA over the summer. Up Mt. Prospect, to the Wilbur shelter (which is off the trail, but it was our first time actually on the AT, and we wanted to poke around.) and then up Mt. Williams (?... I think.)
It was okay.
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 00:05
I'm fairly certain if I hike up Wachusett mt. I'm going to be forced to sing the Wachusett Mt. Skiing theme song the entire way up. Which will probably drive anyone around me insane... it just gets so stuck in my head.
I've never even been to the mid-state trail. Can you camp on it?
Yes, no problem. The Mid-State has very little traffic, and being relatively flat, camping opportunities abound. I can loan you my trail guide, or you can order your own (www.midstatetrail.org (http://www.midstatetrail.org/)) The whole thing is about 100 miles; I hiked it in 15-20 mile sections last spring and summer. A fit hiker could probably thru-hike it in four days.
The Falcon Guide (Hiking Massachusetts (http://www.amazon.com/Hiking-Massachusetts-Benjamin-B-Ames/dp/0762707615)) covers the Mid-State in detail, and would make a suitable alternative to the official guide. You can probably find this at most bookstores in MA.
Pokey2006
09-08-2008, 01:26
I'm fairly certain if I hike up Wachusett mt. I'm going to be forced to sing the Wachusett Mt. Skiing theme song the entire way up. Which will probably drive anyone around me insane... it just gets so stuck in my head.
Thanks, now it's stuck in mine.
Homer&Marje
09-08-2008, 07:29
Mid-State Trail is great from what I hear, they just added an extension to it a few years ago that I just hiked called the Wapack Trail. It's 21 miles from front to end, and a lot of good loops and stuff near this cross country ski area. It's a rigorous hike in some spots but nothing too difficult, a few steep 600 foot climbs mixed with a lot of flat. Really good views on most of the trail though and lots of good places to camp (allowed in all of them I don't know)
http://www.wapack.org/
Homer&Marje
09-08-2008, 07:30
Thanks, now it's stuck in mine.
DOH!!! Now it's in my head
....mountain skiing just minutes away hey!
[QUOTE=_terrapin_;693987]Yes, no problem. The Mid-State has very little traffic, and being relatively flat, camping opportunities abound. I can loan you my trail guide, or you can order your own (www.midstatetrail.org (http://www.midstatetrail.org/)) The whole thing is about 100 miles; I hiked it in 15-20 mile sections last spring and summer. A fit hiker could probably thru-hike it in four days.
QUOTE]
The Mid State Trail is not "set-up" for camping. It's mostly a day hike trail, with very few established places to camp. Much of it is still one private land. So, I would not encourage overnight camping
Same for the Wapack Trail. The only established place to camp is Windblown Ski Area, and that requires a reservation and fee.
The Mid State Trail is not "set-up" for camping.
I don't know about "set up for...." -- those are your words, not mine. I can't vouch for the legality of camping there, either. There are about three or four shelters along the length of the trail. While walking through Leominster State Forest I saw "no camping" signs -- and yet I saw folks camping, quite un-stealthily in fact.
On another occasion I hiked up to the summit of Wachusset, only to find a sign with the park rules expressly prohibiting camping. I wandered about, gave some thought to making a stealth camp, and gave up. Walked back down to the car (in the dark) and headed back home.
What I did say was, "camping opportunities abound..." It's a relatively flat trail and relatively un-traveled. IMO, a careful and conscientious hiker would have no problem finding a campsite. In the course of my hikes on that trail, I camped next to Muddy Pond Shelter twice -- on two separate but adjacent section hikes -- and tented on one other occasion.
Thanks, now it's stuck in mine.
You folks must watch too much TV. Somehow (luckily, it seems!!) I've never heard the tune.
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 09:12
I want to try to avoid being shot at by some angry landowner... and I'd rather not camp illegally either.
Are the shelters on the mid-state trail free?
I usually hear the Wachusett song on the radio. Don't worry, I'll sing it for you. :) I'd hate for you to miss out on an important peice of culture...
Are the shelters on the mid-state trail free?
Yes. I wouldn't worry much about being shot at. Over its entire (100-mile) length, I met less than a dozen hikers on the Mid-State... and at least half of those were on Wachusset.
MyName1sMud
09-08-2008, 11:26
Have fun and be safe! About all I can say!
OregonHiker
09-08-2008, 20:18
I've never even been to the mid-state trail. Can you camp on it?
We hiked a peice of the AT in MA over the summer. Up Mt. Prospect, to the Wilbur shelter (which is off the trail, but it was our first time actually on the AT, and we wanted to poke around.) and then up Mt. Williams (?... I think.)
It was okay.
Also the M-M trail near the CT river
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 20:23
Does that trail allow camping?
I'm looking for some suggestions for some good weekend trips in the White Mountains.
If time is short....
Get up Saturday AM and head north.
Don't head all the way to Lincoln, much less the heart of the Whites. Too much driving after a long work week in Boston. Get off Route 3 at the Waterville Valley (Route 49?) exit, and head east. Turn on to Sandwich Notch Road, which isn't much of one. Be glad its not winter. Park at the Algonquin Trail and hike. Don't forget your map.
This is a short hike to the top of Black Mountain, but is A microcosm to all that is beautiful in the Whites. Look for Boreal Chickadees. Hike off mountain on steep trail and be glad its not raining.
Reach Black Mountain Pond. Find a place to camp. If you camp a few hundred feet away from the pond you are practicing good Leave No Trace Ethics, but be sure to cook and eat you dinner at the waters edge.
Take a book and a couple of nips and chill out. It wasn't a long hike, but since you got delayed in Boston, think back to the brilliant advise you got on WB? The trail out Black Mountain Pond Trail and Guinea Pond Trail and a woods-road walk isn't long either, but to celebrate your success you need to time things to work in lunch at The Common Man
Too much detail? Probably. But I digress.
As a variation if you want a longer FLAT hike, park your car at the Guinea Pond Trail head referenced above, and walk 7 miles or so to the Flat Mountain Pond Shelter. If its full miscreants, set up your tent along the shore of Flat Mountain Pond. You may be in a wilderness area, but no problem camping there. If you you are concerned about such stuff, you can get the skinny at the WMNF visitor center just off Route 3 on your way in to Waterville Valley. You can even buy a parking sticker there.
When walking back the way you went in, remember how flat this 15 Mile RT hike was. As such, you can forgive the mountain bikers for sneaking up on you. Because you will never again hike such a flat stretch in the Whites again.
Take plenty of Mosquito replant. And a map.
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 22:19
Thanks Rickb! That's just what I needed, a real concrete plan.
What is the name of the map I need?
Rick's plan is a good one; it's a nice area. It also saves some driving time from Boston. If you started at the Kanc and hiked south, you'd end up in the same general area. From some of these peaks you have great views south, looking over all of Lake Winnipesaukee, or east, toward Mt. Chocorua.
In the AMC White Mtns. guide, the map you need is Map #2, "Franconia-Pemigewasset." It is Rte. 49 (to confirm Rick's guess.) The exit on Rte. 93 is about 45 minutes north of Concord, as I recall.
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 22:53
Ugh. I don't have map #2. I have map #1 and #4 (methinks...). I think I did my map buying all wrong...
First problem I had when I got to the whites a few weeks ago was discovering we weren't staying anywhere on the map I had bought. Luckily the campground had the AMC map of the area we were staying.
I imagine had I been smarter I could've bought all these maps in one fowl swoop with them bookies n stuff...
my English seems to be deteriorating tonight.
Pick up the maps (or the AMC guide) at REI (in Reading) on your way. The REI store is just off the highway. Exit 40, Rte. 129, just north of the highway.
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 23:21
Oh I'll pick up the map before I'm on my way. I like me a good map. I sit down and read them like their books... especially the topographical variety.
Even road maps make me giddy.
REI is just a hop skip and a jump from me anyway.
For what it's worth: this is the view looking north from the south shore of Lake Winnipesaukee. The mountains off in the distance are the Whites, south of the Kanc.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/hobie_sunset2.jpg
WetBottom
09-08-2008, 23:30
Now how did you just make a picture appear?!
Pretty picture. Makes me want to go swimming.
Pokey2006
09-09-2008, 01:32
That would be the Sandwich Range. Where on the lake was that, exactly? It's a nice shot.
Thanks Rickb! That's just what I needed, a real concrete plan.
What is the name of the map I need?
You need them all!
There are many different kinds of trips you can take in the Whites.
Another approach we like it is to drive up to Crawford Notch and stay in the AMC "Shapliegh Bunk House" on a Friday night. Its in a small building next to the multimillion dollar AMC Highland Center. You need reservations but its not all that expensive at $25 or so (the AMC's regular accommodations are much more costly than the bunk house). See www.outdoors.org.
The next morning pour over your maps at breakfast and find a route in the general area. The folks at the AMC can usually offer some good advise.
It's Ellacoya Beach, a small state park, about five or ten miles west of Alton Bay on Rte. 11. Mt. Passaconaway is about 25 miles due north. Gunstock (ski area) is about 5 miles due south.
Here's a photo of Black Mtn. Pond, from the trail that descends the ridge between Black Mtn. and Sandwich Mtn. (It's a very steep trail...) The thumbnail is a topo of the region in question.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/CRW_3274.jpg
WetBottom
09-15-2008, 20:38
So, I bought some maps today. But the map seems to cut off the bottom half of the Sandwich range, which I think includes the suggested hike.
I bought another couple maps. So, I'll look over them... I can't seem to get this map thing straight. At this point though, I own most, if not all, of the AMC white mountain maps.
They are very pretty maps though. Mmm...maps.
WetBottom
09-15-2008, 21:04
On second inspection, the trail is included in one of the maps I bought.
It's not a topographical map though, which is a bummer.
Me thinks you need a topo map to enjoy a new spot best.
With a map you can adjust your day to what moves you and the amount of energy you have. And to change you route on the fly.
The set of two National Geographic Trail Illustrated Maps are pretty good for the Whites.
The AMC Map#3 includes Black Mountain Pond and FLat Mountain Pond. and a whole lot more, too!
WetBottom
09-17-2008, 11:10
Ha. Turns out I owned the map all along! And it's a topo map. Silly me.
WetBottom
09-18-2008, 11:26
I'm looking at the weather in NH and there is already freeze warnings! Should I be nervous about this? I am not prepared for winter camping... I'm barely prepared for non-winter camping! I can barely figure out what map I should be looking at.
I'm looking at the weather in NH and there is already freeze warnings! Should I be nervous about this? I am not prepared for winter camping... I'm barely prepared for non-winter camping! I can barely figure out what map I should be looking at.
I wouldn't be too concerned, just yet. Might get a touch of frost overnight, but if you've got a dry tent, a decent (properly rated) sleeping bag and ground pad, you should be fine. Particularly on the trip plan that Rick B. suggested. The campsite by Black Mountain pond is nice.
WetBottom
09-18-2008, 11:32
I'm not planning on going for another month. I need to be able to get someone to cover for me on Sunday.
My sleeping bag claims to be rated for 20 degrees... but it also came from Walmart and cost $35 dollars.
What's nice about the campsite? Does it have a heater??... hehe. :)
I'm not planning on going for another month. I need to be able to get someone to cover for me on Sunday.
My sleeping bag claims to be rated for 20 degrees... but it also came from Walmart and cost $35 dollars.
What's nice about the campsite? Does it have a heater??... hehe. :)
I'd be a bit concerned with the Walmart bag ratings -- but you could test that in your backyard before you go. Yes, of course, it'll be a good deal colder a month from now. As for the camp site at Black Mtn. Pond -- I remember it as being quite "civilized" -- lots of open, flat space, but nice tree cover, and easy access to the pond. A fairly easy walk out to that access road that Rick described.
WetBottom
09-18-2008, 11:58
I don't have a backyard, but I could probably find one.
I was hoping to get out before winter to try out our stuff... then we could decide what else we need for spring.