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View Full Version : Most Scenic Section of the Park for a Weeklong Ramble?



erichkopp
04-27-2009, 19:38
Over the summer I'm going to take a week or so off from work to explore the Smokys. I don't want to necessary plan a definite route, and instead want to walk and see where I end up. What, in your opinion, is the most scenic section of the park? I'm looking for lots of balds, mountains, etc as we have none here in Florida. I'll be by myself, so an area with different loop possibilities would be ideal. Also, is it easy to hitch a ride back if I don't end up making a loop?

Engine
04-27-2009, 20:16
First you should understand that many, if not most, of the campsites require a reservation in GSMNP and you can be fined if you are found camping at a listed site without a reservation.

With that in mind, I would tell you that the Southwestern side of the park has more areas to camp and the ability to get away from everyone a little better. Anywhere from Deep Creek west to Fontana Dam and north to the AT is a nice area with lots of choices for trails. A really nice loop could be done by taking the AT from Fontana Dam past Clingman's Dome to Fork Ridge trail. Drop down to Deep Creek trail and then head back west on Pole Road Creek, Noland Creek, and the Lakeshore (which is also the BMT) trails.

It would make a really nice 6-8 day trip depending on how hard you wanted to go.

erichkopp
04-27-2009, 21:14
I was looking at a relatively similar route. I'm aware of the need for reservations, but from studying the map it looks like I'd be fine without making any as long as I stay off the AT for the most part. I most likely will do a portion of the AT for the first day or two, and make the reservations, and then branch off and camp at un-rationed sites.

It seems like there are an endless amount of possibilities in the park, and I like the idea of a loose route that allows for some improvising.

Ramble~On
04-27-2009, 21:52
Excellent Question!

So many trails so little time. LeConte, Sawteeth, Gregory Bald, Andrews Bald, Rocky Top, Thunderhead, Mt Cammerer...
Do you want solitude or people or does that matter. There are many, many loop options and different trailheads with shuttle options...there are many people who offer shuttles. There are waterfalls, stands of virgin timber, balds, rocks, miles of lakeshore...it's a hard question to answer and a good one. Weeklong Ramble :)!

sliderule
04-28-2009, 00:05
Also, is it easy to hitch a ride back if I don't end up making a loop?

To and from points along the main roads inside the park is usually not a problem. (Newfound Gap Rd and the roads from Sugarlands to Cades Cove.) If roads outside the park are involved, difficulty increases significantly. For example. Newfound Gap to Cherokee would be easy. Newfound Gap to Fontana, Twentymile or Big Creek would be a totally different story.

Siestita
04-28-2009, 01:05
The Cherokee reservation runs a regularly scheduled shuttle between Cherokee and Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, making four complete round trips per day. They make a scheduled stop at Newfound Gap and also drop people off at other trailheads along the highway. See below for details:

http://www.cherokeetransit.com/shuttle_to_tenn.htm

Siestita
04-28-2009, 01:42
As a Floridian you may not have experienced much, if any, mountain hiking yet. If so, be careful not to schedule yourself for too much distance per day; you probably won't want to cover nearly as much daily mileage in the Smokies as you hike down in the flatlands. Its easy to overschedule oneself in the Smokies, especially given the rigid nature of the permitting system. Even stays at the unreserved campsites have to be listed on the permit you fill out at the beginning of your hike.

On the other hand, hiking solo, I've not had any difficultygetting reservations at popular Smokies camsites and shelters, provided I call the park a week or two in advance. One means of adding in flexibility is to keep daily mileage modest, leaving time for spontaneou side trips.

In my experience, the Smokies' most scenic trails, with the balds and views, tend to be the most popular ones. That's fine, as long as you anticipate that it will be the case and go with the flow. I especially like the northern, more remote part of the AT, and the scenic but less visited side ridges leading from there to the Laurel shelter and the Mount Sterling campsite.

smokymountainexplorer
04-28-2009, 13:47
I like the Fontana end of the park. You could park at the dam and start your loop there or hike to Newfound Gap road to catch a ride back. My favorite sites in the park are the lake, Shucstack tower, Charlies Bunion, and the Cades Cove are in general. The Fontana side you will see less people which i prefer.

Egads
04-28-2009, 17:31
The Cherokee reservation runs a regularly scheduled shuttle between Cherokee and Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, making four complete round trips per day. They make a scheduled stop at Newfound Gap and also drop people off at other trailheads along the highway. See below for details:

http://www.cherokeetransit.com/shuttle_to_tenn.htm

I did not know that, thanks for the tip :D

aaronthebugbuffet
04-29-2009, 01:31
Have you thought about breaking the week up into smaller one or two night excursions in different areas of the park?
I often take 3-6 day trips in the Smokies with a "loose itinerary" but there are some really nice spots that are easily reached via dayhikes or that could be included in overnighters.
Charlie's Bunion, Alum Cave Bluffs, Gregory Bald, Shuckstack tower, Mt Sterling, and Mt Cammerer are all cool places with great views that could be dayhikes or incorporated into overnight hikes.

tripp
04-29-2009, 09:41
I also really like the Cattaloochee side of the Park. It's out of the way but it is way less crowded than the Cades Cove end. This is also where the Elk tend to spend their time as well. There are several choices for hiking in and around the area as well, and if you can't work out a loop, Standing Bear Farms might be able to do a shuttle for you on that end...

Ox97GaMe
04-30-2009, 09:02
Eric,
Reservations are needed for all shelters and backcountry campsites, not just the ones along the AT. They try to monitor use of the campsites, especially during the summer, to prevent overcrowding and over use of the sites. Some back country sites also are limited in the number of available tent sites. These area indicated by the brown (vs. black) tenting symbols on the SMNP maps.

Camping without a permit, or camping in areas other than designated sites can result in fines if you are caught. Permits are easy to get. you may want to call to get a reservation number a couple days in advanace. Actual forms are available at any of the visitor center/campground backcountry offices, and at some of the trailhead parking locations. Carry a copy, with reservation number with you at all times.

The park also uses the permits in the event of an emergency. If you are delayed, and a family member contacts the park, they will pull the reservation # to best determine where to start looking for you. Also, (as is the case today) if wildfires pop up in the park, they want to know approx how many folks might need to be notified to change their planned routes, or be removed from the endangered area. Always a safety precaution to let folks know what your 'planned' hike is.

I agree that the loop from Fontana to Clingman's and back along Lakeshore will give you lots to see. However, it doesnt give you many options if you fall behind when on the southern (Lakeshore Trail) portion of the hike. It is 40+ trail miles from 'The Tunnel' to Fontana Dam. There are other trails that you can take if you know you are falling behind shedule early in the hike. (Hazel Creek, Welch Ridge, Forney Creek, Forney Ridge) Just something to think about.

Depending on time of summer, you might also want to see.

- Mid June: Azaleas blooming on Gregory Bald
- Early July: Syncronized fireflies at Tremont (and campsite #47)

I like seeing the many waterfalls that are in the park, and most have a very nice swimming hole or two close by, very enjoyable during a summer hike.

erichkopp
04-30-2009, 11:00
Thanks for the information Ox. Aaron, I had considered taking a few smaller trips throughout the week rather than one long one, and I'll most likely be doing a trip along those lines. No matter what I do, I know I'll be enjoying myself up there.

sliderule
04-30-2009, 11:21
Eric,
Reservations are needed for all shelters and backcountry campsites, not just the ones along the AT.

That is factually incorrect. The majority of the non-shelter backcountry sites do not require a reservation.

http://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/backcountry-camping.htm

Jaybird
04-30-2009, 11:43
Over the summer I'm going to take a week or so off from work to explore the Smokys. I don't want to necessary plan a definite route, and instead want to walk and see where I end up. What, in your opinion, is the most scenic section of the park? I'm looking for lots of balds, mountains, etc as we have none here in Florida. I'll be by myself, so an area with different loop possibilities would be ideal. Also, is it easy to hitch a ride back if I don't end up making a loop?


Start @ CARVERS GAP (atop ROAN MTN near Roan Mtn, TN) & head NOBO to Damascus VA...plenty of mtn top views & balds & some views of Longhorn steers if you're Lucky!:D

Doctari
04-30-2009, 12:26
As to reservations by phone: Good luck with that :rolleyes:
You may want to (back up) plan on stopping at one of the visitors centers when you get in the area. I tried to reserve a site beginning 3 weeks in advance, calling every 15 minutes 9 - 5 weekdays & about once an hr on Sat. I NEVER got anyone to answer the phone. I even called twice on my way to GSMNP, AND stopped at the office in Sugarlands where you make the reservation, no one was there, & the voluteers were no help. I finally said "forget it" & just camped without reservation. I didn't see a single person for 3 days, even staying at 2 "Reservation ONLY" sites. I did stop at the trailhead permit thingy & sign in. Noted that I was unable to contact anyone for a reservation & where I was staying & phone number / address. No one ever contacted me to say I did wrong.
YMMV!

sliderule
04-30-2009, 13:32
As to reservations by phone: Good luck with that :rolleyes:


No kidding.


As to reservations by phone: Good luck with that :rolleyes:
You may want to (back up) plan on stopping at one of the visitors centers when you get in the area.

Good luck with that, too. Unless you deal with the Backcountry Office at Sugarlands, you are probably going to be directed to call the reservations office yourself.

Doctari
04-30-2009, 16:21
No kidding.



Good luck with that, too. Unless you deal with the Backcountry Office at Sugarlands, you are probably going to be directed to call the reservations office yourself.

Yea, that is what I was doing. No answer for 3 weeks, occasionally a busy signal, but no answer, & no one in the office when I showed up, with the only people working at teh VC that AM were teh gift shop vollys, & they hadn't seen anyone but the maint guy that day. It was around 10:30 AM.

Write a letter? Prolly what I should have done I suppose, and what I'll do next time.

RoanDog
04-30-2009, 16:56
I just southbounded solo through the park on the AT this week. The Hike Inn Shuttled me back to my car yesterday from Fontana to Davenport(nice folks, I will use them again) I had no trouble getting through for reservations earlier this month. I called at 8am. The shelters just south of Davenport (cosby) and Newfound gap (mt collins) were not as heavily used. I was only in one shelter that was full during 4 nights on the trail. It was one of the best section hikes I have done in my 30 years of hiking the AT. The weather was good and the veiws could not have been any better. I started just before sunrise each morning to get ahead of the heat. The black flys were bad and made it hard to take a break or stop too early. They were not a problem as long as I was moving. Take a cheap head-net and insect repellent. The bugs disappeared when it cooled off at night. I saw deer, bear, flushed a couple grouse, and listened to the grouse drum every morning and evening. I will be going back to hike other sections of the park off the AT as soon as I can find time.

Egads
04-30-2009, 19:31
Never had a problem making reservations before.

I'd hike the SW end of the park with a loop including the BMT & AT

Marta
04-30-2009, 20:15
I call and make reservations all the time. Often get a busy signal. Everyone once in a while they answer on the first call, and I'm so surprised I get all flustered.

While you don't need reservations for some of the backcountry sites, you do have to make a hiking plan and record it on the permit, which you leave in a box before you start hiking. It is quite possible to do lots of hiking in the Park without making any reservations at all, by just staying in the backcountry sites which don't require reservations. That's what I usually do.

A quick glance down the list on the National Geographic map of the Park shows that less than 20% of the backcountry sites require reservations.

aaronthebugbuffet
05-01-2009, 20:04
I haven't made a reservation in about 2 years, but I never had a problem talking to anyone when I did.

sliderule
05-01-2009, 21:10
I haven't made a reservation in about 2 years, but I never had a problem talking to anyone when I did.

Too bad we cannot continue to operate in the past. Things have changed.

aaronthebugbuffet
05-01-2009, 21:41
Too bad we cannot continue to operate in the past. Things have changed.

Well I'm glad I stopped making reservations then.

Rambler
05-01-2009, 22:40
Crowds? I spent 10 days in the Park August of '06. Two five day loop hikes. Never had more than three in a shelter. In the tentsites, I camped alone. Off the AT I never saw a sole. Made one call to make reservations. Told them where I intended to camp. Okay, fine. It was at most a five minute call, no time on hold. Saw two rangers clearing the side of one trail. They were not interested in permits.
My goal was to hike all of the AT in the park. Loop 1, Fontana Dam to Clingmans via the AT, loop back via the Forney Ridge, Bear Creek, Cold Spring, Hazel Creek to Lakeshore back to the Dam.
Loop 2: Began at Cosby Campground, Low Gap to the AT, South on the AT to Icewater spring, over to Mount LeConte, Brushy Mountain to Old Settlers back to Cosby.
Day Hikes to fill in the gaps:
1. Rode my bike from Cosby to Davenport Gap. Hiked the AT south to Low Gap and back to Cosby.
2. Left my bike at the top of Clingmans. Hiked up the AT from the Gap to the Dome. Road my bike back down..one long, fast coast! Hiked up to Iceman and back to my van in Newfound Gap.

Wonderful hiking in a beautiful place.

A good resource: 100 Hikes in the Great Smoky Mountains NP, Mountaineers Press by Russ Manning, Second Edition, 1999 ($14.95 MSRP)

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/558298071DUtVaZ

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/558534338QZsqZQ

sliderule
05-02-2009, 09:47
Saw two rangers clearing the side of one trail. They were not interested in permits.


NPS workers who perform trail maintenance duties are not rangers and have no authority to check permits.

deacons1
05-15-2009, 12:01
One of the most beautiful hikes I have done in the Smokies off the AT is Goshen Prong. Starting at Clingman's and going a couple of miles to Double Spring shelter on AT and take Goshen Prong trail. Bottom 1/2 of trail is dense vegetation along a stream and reminds you of a rainforest. Absolutely beautiful. (trail ends at Little River Trail about 4 miles from Elkmont Campground) . Pros- lots of water available and secluded. You will feel like you are cut off from the world. Cons- it is all downhill and will take a toll on the knees. Nice cave about half way down. Watch for bears...fatal aggressive attack a few of years back.
Heading NE from Clingman's or NewFound Gap on AT gives some stunning views in fall and winter. Tricorner Knob is a pristine shelter and some say it is the most remote spot in the park. Long hike though. Have a great trip.

Ramble~On
05-15-2009, 12:13
Never had a problem making reservations before.

I'd hike the SW end of the park with a loop including the BMT & AT

Nice choice...I'll second that and my reason is that after doing this you WILL want to return to do some more. There are some really good loop options here that hit a good many spots that are "must sees" and the elevation changes grant you a teaser of several different forest types, views, balds and try to hit the lake around Eagle Creek or visit Proctor.
Summer....Gregory Bald is a must.