View Full Version : Trail Access
Graywolf
12-17-2009, 16:35
I have been considering altering my hike plans next year, and instead of a section on the AT I am considering the PCT.. All I need is a Trail Town with a bus stop...I will have 2 months to spend so anywhere on the trail would be fine..
One area considering is Yosemite or Sequoia... But anywhere is fine.. Just an acces to the trail from a bus stop I will be happy..I will plan accordingly after I fine a starting town..
Graywolf
ARambler
12-17-2009, 16:52
Places I have gotten to by bus, nobo:
Donner Pass/Truckee, CA
Dunsmuir, CA (? I got off the bus in Shasta going to...)
Etna, CA,
Seiad Valley, CA (only twice a week, so better inbound)
Ashland, OR
Stevenson, WA (on the Columbia by the OR border)
Manning Park, Canada.
Graywolf
12-17-2009, 16:58
Thanks for the list.. I just looked at the bus service and looks like there is a stop also in Weed, Ca.. Just outside of Shasta national forest.. That looks like it may be the right place to go..
I am going to do some more looking and get a trail guide from PCTA and look at my alternatives if I go this route...I just want to get out and explore some and am in no hurry/rush..I want to be out for the duration but don't care where or what direction, just have some fun with nature..
Graywolf
ARambler
12-17-2009, 17:48
Thanks for the list.. I just looked at the bus service and looks like there is a stop also in Weed, Ca.. Just outside of Shasta national forest.. That looks like it may be the right place to go..
I am going to do some more looking and get a trail guide from PCTA and look at my alternatives if I go this route...I just want to get out and explore some and am in no hurry/rush..I want to be out for the duration but don't care where or what direction, just have some fun with nature..
Graywolf
oops, yes, Weed for local service to/from both Etna and Seiad Valley. Ashland is local service from Medford Lakes, OR.
Also, unconfirmed service to Skykomish, WA.
Don't know know your 2 month range, but WA+OR sounds reasonable. Maybe sobo to hit the more frequent finishes near I-5.
Graywolf
12-17-2009, 18:59
when will you start... .
Our racing season at the Park ends the last Sunday of July then we have about a week to clean the kitchen and lock the doors till October..So I am lookin at the first week of August....
Graywolf
that late i would get on at Donner pass/truckee..south bound the sierra's
should be almost snow free and no bugs...kennedy meadow's would be a good jump off spot......l
The Weasel
12-17-2009, 20:06
Go to Palm Springs, CA in Southern California. Take the short local bus/cab to the San Jacinto Cable Car on the outskirts of town. Take the cable to the top. You can summit SJ (huge honkin' mountain and gorgeous, too) and be on the PCT in a couple miles. Then down one side, into the valley, and back up basically to the top of San Gorgonio (huger mountain, highest south of Whitney) and keep on ridgerunning from there.
TW
that late i would get on at Donner pass/truckee..south bound the sierra's
should be almost snow free and no bugs...kennedy meadow's would be a good jump off spot......l
Yep, that's the thing to do. Though I'd say go all the way to Walker Pass and hitch to Onyx. From there you can get a bus to Lake Isabella and I think to Bakersfield.
Northern CA has more easy access points, but it's kind of mediocre hiking compared to the Sierras.
I don't know if I'd recommend the desert in the beginning of August. The mountains would be nice down there but once the PCT drops down you'd be dying in the heat.
I'd say take the amtrak bus to Ashland, OR and jump on there. You can northbound from there and probably even finish the trail, if you have two months. Southern Oregon is nicely graded, too, a great place to get your hiking legs under you. And you'll see Crater Lake, Three Sisters, Mts. Jefferson and Washington, Mt. Hood, etc. etc.
And the temps won't be bad, and there's plenty of water!
PS I can confirm amtrak bus service to skykomish, WA as on my 2008 thru-hike I took that bus from Seattle back to Skykomish to get back on the trail after visiting a friend. I think it's $20 to go from Seattle to Skykomish, you can book the reservation on amtrak.com -- also, I think you could probably get a reservation for further east (perhaps Leavenworth or such?) and just have the driver drop you off at the top of Stevens Pass so you could jump right on the trail.
But I'd personally recommend northbounding from Ashland. You'll run into tons of thru-hikers at that time, too!
Graywolf
12-18-2009, 14:49
Meta, Thanks, right now that looks like my choice.. Ashland looks pretty close to the trail and the area is beautiful.. going north thru Oregon would be nice..I still havnt made my mind up on direction, but with 2 months 2 spare, I think any will do...
I just have to get out of this flat land of a state...
Graywolf
I don't know if I'd recommend the desert in the beginning of August. The mountains would be nice down there but once the PCT drops down you'd be dying in the heat.
I'd say take the amtrak bus to Ashland, OR and jump on there. You can northbound from there and probably even finish the trail, if you have two months. Southern Oregon is nicely graded, too, a great place to get your hiking legs under you. And you'll see Crater Lake, Three Sisters, Mts. Jefferson and Washington, Mt. Hood, etc. etc.
And the temps won't be bad, and there's plenty of water!
PS I can confirm amtrak bus service to skykomish, WA as on my 2008 thru-hike I took that bus from Seattle back to Skykomish to get back on the trail after visiting a friend. I think it's $20 to go from Seattle to Skykomish, you can book the reservation on amtrak.com -- also, I think you could probably get a reservation for further east (perhaps Leavenworth or such?) and just have the driver drop you off at the top of Stevens Pass so you could jump right on the trail.
But I'd personally recommend northbounding from Ashland. You'll run into tons of thru-hikers at that time, too!
FWIW, I thought that Oregon sucked. I'd say of my 10 least favorite days on the trail, 8 or 9 were in Oregon. If you hike in July/August, you're going to have bad mosquitoes in a lot of places--I used more DEET during 3 weeks in Oregon than 3 months in CA. Also, a lot of the trail in Oregon is just viewless woods--nice but not exciting. The sections that Meta mentioned (Crater Lake, 3 Sisters, etc.) are great, but those are the exception not the rule in Oregon. The one good thing that Oregon has going is that the trail is super easy and well-graded.
If you want a much nicer section, I'd suggest hiking south from Ashland to Castella. You'll go through the Siskiyous, the Marble Mountains (one of the nicest sections of the entire trail), the Trinity Alps, Russian Wilderness, and Castle Crags. And then you can end at Castella where you can get anywhere on I-5.
As for hiking north with thru-hikers, you'll see lots of thru-hikers in OR if you go north from Ashland, but they'll all be going 30 miles a day, so you probably won't be seeing them for long.
Jester2000
12-18-2009, 15:59
On the other hand, some of my favorite days were in Oregon, and I think the scenery in Oregon is spectacular. Crater Lake, Diamond Lake, Theilsen, Three Sisters Wilderness and all of the cool volcanic stuff, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mount Jefferson (absolutely spectacular), Mount Hood, the Eagle Creek Trail (not technically the PCT, but it would be silly not to hike it), and just about everything in between.
Love Oregon. Love it. Just goes to show that people can have completely different experiences in the same place, I suppose.
Some people complain about Oregon, and while there are parts that are somewhat dull (although I would suggest every state or section has parts like that. ESPECIALLY norcal, which is an epic display of dullness for 500 miles--plus ridiculous climbs and descents), at least half the state is downright fantastic. All those sections I named add up to significant mileage. The trail through the three sisters/mt jefferson area, basically from elk lake or just before all the way until ollalie is fantastic, and that's a long stretch even for a thru-hiker. The trail from just past fish lake area until just past mt. thielsen (right before the OR/WA high point) is great, too (this includes crater lake as well as the hilly ridgewalks you get to do immediately before crater lake). Going around Mt. hood is amazing. Going down the eagle creek trail is amazing, as is the 3-volcano viewpoint immediately before you jump on the eagle creek trail. All this adds up, and it's all downright GOOD, not just "okay". If for this you have to pay the "tax" of a few days in the trees, so be it. Every section has stuff like this, excluding the sierras and northern washington, and those sections aren't terribly long (depending on where you consider the sierras to become "good," and it's definitely the sierras that win the length contest).
At any rate, people short-sell Oregon. I thru-hiked two consecutive years and both times I really enjoyed Oregon. It's cooler, water is everywhere, you get some really great sights in, it's easy hiking and there's plenty of resupply spots. I think part of the reason oregon gets downplayed by thru-hikers is people are starting to get jaded on the trail a bit by that point. It colors your perceptions.
And the mosquitos in 2008 were AWFUL in Oregon, absolute murder. I entered Oregon on July 25th in 2008 and exited August 15th. Until Mt. Hood area the mosquitos were pure pain. However, in 2009 I entered Oregon on July 27th and exited August 12th and the mosquitos were NOT an issue. There weren't any serious spots where I felt like I was being eaten alive and compared to 2008 I hardly used any mosquito repellent. I never even put my headnet on ONCE, which in oregon in 2008 I don't think I didn't put it on for at least a little while every day. Mosquitos are a year-to-year variable. In 2008 my worst mosquitos were Oregon. In 2009 my worst mosquitos by far were in the northern sierras. It all depends on snowpack and weather, among other things.
As for southbounding from ashland, I definitely do not recommend that route. Pick another section rather than do that. Northern California, as most people I've hiked with on the trail agree, is the WORST part of the PCT. Often you have the same issues people complain about in Oregon -- too many trees, mediocre views -- but it's ALSO incredibly hot and you're constantly dropping 3000-4000-5000 ft in elevation, crossing a road or a river, then immediately climbing 3000-4000-5000ft back up. Repeat ad nauseum. And then you're at 2000ft elevation in AUGUST (take Belden for instance) and DYING in the heat. While mushing your way through poorly maintained trail in the boiling hot sun. I'll take a big pass on that.
The marble mountains are very nice (although I definitely don't agree they rank in the top parts of the trail) as are the trinity alps by Etna, but most of northern california is a hot, dry slog. Water sources can be tricky and that part of the state tends to burst into flames seemingly at random during that time of year. And even then, the high points of norcal (as much islands in a sea of boring as anything in Oregon) are not AS high as the high points in Oregon. There's no way you could convince me that the marble mountains can compare to circling the flanks of Mt. Hood, or the Three Sisters wilderness. Or that the trinity alps are as good as Jefferson Park. And Crater Lake you simply can't top with anything in California short of the highest sierra passes.
So yeah, don't go southbound. If you end up not being interested in Oregon, I would advise you to go to the Sierras or washington. To be honest, I'd almost take the desert over norcal. At least the desert is an interesting ecosystem if you're not from southern california.
It's funny, when I entered Oregon ~Aug 18th, I found the 1st week as hot or even hotter then anything I dealt with in NorCal, especially the 1st 3 days out of Ashland. I remember cursing Yogi's Handbook and its claim that nights in Oregon will be cold while I was sweating ontop of my sleeping quilt. I do recognize that I had usually hot weather for Oregon, but at least the bugs were mostly gone when I hiked through. While the heat and the very long water carries (and here I thought those were over after SoCal) probably influenced my negative opinion, I just wasn't a fan of the 1st half of Oregon other then Crater Lake. But I did enjoy Oregon from the 3 Sisters going north and would recommend that part for a section hike.
I think most people's problem with NorCal is it comes right after the High Sierra and comparing anything to the Sierras will seem disappointing. If it came immediately after SoCal before the High Sierra, I think people would look forward to it much more. I personally enjoyed parts of NorCal. I liked the 1st week north of Lake Tahoe as the scenery was still excellent and the wildflowers were still abundant in late July. The fact that I kept running into daily trail magic for a period of time here, probably made things seem better then it was. However, I also really enjoyed the section from the Halfway point (Hwy36 near Chester) up through Castle Crags which has some pretty dramatic changes in evironment, and I looked forward to the Trinity Alps and visiting the towns of Etna (and its famous brew pub and soda fountain) and Seiad Valley (home of the pancake challenge). Most hikers didn't like Lassen Volcanic NP, but then again the trail avoids 90% of the best places there. I actualy took some time to go off trail in Lassen to see some of the other sights and really enjoyed the place. I couldn't believe it when I found that very few hikers even bothered to do the short 2mile trek from Drakesbad to see Hell's Kitchen let alone see Cinder Cone or the painted lava fields. What a waste, no wonder most people hatted Lassen.
Like many, I have to recommend most of Washington and the Sierras as the best sections on the trail to hike. But I think every part of the trail has its good points, its just some have more then others.
Graywolf
12-19-2009, 20:03
Thank you everyone..What great perceptions...I have been all over California, and NORCAL..There are some spots I have been curious why the PCT didn't go there..But I have always loved norcal, Shasta and Lassen has been favorite spots for me, (I have a love for volcanos)...
Why am I choosing Oregon?? When I drove trucks for a living, I was always passing thru Washington and Oregon..There were a few times I would have a chance to get out and hike some, but those were only "tease" hikes...I want to go back and enjoy what I missed, Crater lake was always a disappointment for me as I always missed it..The photos always seem dramatic and to visit this place would be well woth it in my opinion..Mt. Hood is nice from the windsheild of a truck, but to personally visit this mount..Oh that has got to be close to heaven..Likewise for 3 sisters... Both states has always been fun to drive thru, Now I want to experiance it by foot....
Thanks, you all have helped me with the discision.... I was planning another AT section hike, but, the more I do my research on Oregon, I maybe changing my plans...
Thanks, and when it gets close, If any of you are able to, come out and walk, I will welcome you...
Graywolf
Jester2000
12-20-2009, 14:25
..Mt. Hood is nice from the windsheild of a truck, but to personally visit this mount..Oh that has got to be close to heaven..
. . . and speaking of close to heaven, I forgot to mention one of the highlights of my entire trip -- the AYCE breakfast buffet at Timberline Lodge.
handlebar
12-20-2009, 20:08
that late i would get on at Donner pass/truckee..south bound the sierra's
should be almost snow free and no bugs...kennedy meadow's would be a good jump off spot......l
Since it might be hard to get a hitch out of KM, you might consider continuing south another 2 days or so to Walker Pass. You can hitch west from there down to Onyx or further west to Lake Isabella. From either you can combine bus service on Kern Regional Transit to Bakersfield with Greyhound to LA and a shuttle to LAX if you're flying.
Inbound toward Donner Pass you can fly to Reno then take a shuttle to Truckee and then hitch on to Donner Pass.
However, I did that section in 30 days during my 08 PCT thru, so you might be able to do the whole section from Walker Pass to Ashland in the two months that you have.
Magic Man
12-21-2009, 14:23
The fact that I kept running into daily trail magic for a period of time here, probably made things seem better then it was.
The trail magic in that NoCal region is legendary I hear!
;)
The trail magic in that NoCal region is legendary I hear!
;)
As if you didn't have anything to do with it!
Wow, what different experiences we all have.
I hiked through Oregon in 2009 from July 14 - August 4. The mosquitoes were absolutely insane. If it is possible for them to be even worse, then, oh my god. I'm never going back to Oregon. I carried around a huge can of DEET. I lived inside my long sleeves, buttoned-up collar, long pants, head-net and DEET all over everything so strong I walked sideways sometimes. I holed up in Elk Lake when the zipper on my tent broke and I had to order a replacement. I was not going out there without protection.
Now that the absolute misery of the mosquitoes has faded, my memories only remember Oregon as being the prettiest part. It has a lot of diversity. There are a lot of boring viewless forest days, but when you pop out of the forest, it's gorgeous. That lava was amazing. Those hundreds of little frogs on the trail was insane! Struggling in the viewless forest only to pop out onto the slopes of Mt. Hood with it right in my face stunned and amazed me. And the Timberline Lodge looked like the Emerald City gleaming like that across the canyon, which indeed it was because I was never so hungry in all my life.
I thought Washington was mostly more boring than Oregon. Except for the Goat Rocks and then the part after Steven's Pass, it was mostly boring, viewless and wet.
I really don't like the Sierras that much. I thought Oregon and Washington were much prettier. I thought the section around the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains were some of the nicest parts of the trail, too. I would return there any day and be happy never to see the High Sierra again. But that's just me. I love the forest and the gray craggy peaks of the Sierras just seem forbidding and unwelcoming. Plus the hordes of people in the Sierra are not a plus.