PDA

View Full Version : PCT north of Tuolumne



Megapixel
01-06-2010, 17:33
We are looking at multiple possibilities for a July backpacking trip and are wondering about the section of the PCT starting at Tuolumne and heading north for anywhere between 75-100 miles. Please tell me what you can about this section, including resupply. thanks !

Meta
01-06-2010, 17:57
It's not a bad section. The highlights include the ridgewalk into and out of Sonora Pass, the pass that exits Yosemite (I can't recall its name), and possibly the area around "the nipple" before you get to Carson Pass. Aside from that, however, it's fairly viewless and very strenuous (both years, as a thru-hiker in good shape and young, that section wiped me out the HARDEST of pretty much any section aside from the JMT). However, it's still a pretty nice section as long as you don't get murdered by mosquitos. If you have other options, I would consider them instead. Going SOUTH from Tuolumne would be a more beautiful hike, with a lot more high, viewful sections.

you cross roads a few times going north from tuolumne. The first time you cross a road after the yosemite NP highway is Sonora Pass. You can hitch east down to Bridgeport, although during the week there traffic can be dead. I hitched for four hours before getting a ride in 2008. In 2009 I didn't go down but there were LOTS more cars and other hikers were able to get rides. You can also hitch west a few miles to the northern Kennedy Meadows resort, which has a small store and possibly a PO? or something to receive packages.

Next road after that is, I believe, Ebett's pass, which is a nowhere-nothing road that does have a little bit of traffic that goes down to some small town. I've never been but I've heard of people who went down. I think there may just be a restaurant and a small convenience store, but this is all hearsay. you could probably look it up on google or some such.

After that there are a few forest roads with recreational users. One or two of which are even paved, although they're low-traffic roads and I don't know where they go.

The next major road is Carson Pass, which has a visitor center and lots of traffic. It's easy to get to South Lake Tahoe from there. I guess that's about 100-120 miles from Tuolumne, so I doubt you'd want more info after that.

I carried Tuolumne to Bridgeport to South Lake Tahoe via Echo Lake in 2008. I think that's 100 miles, followed by 45 or so. In 2009 I went straight through, 145ish miles, from Tuolumne to South Lake Tahoe via the highway a few miles before echo lake (easier hitch, in my opinion, at least as far as getting back is concerned).

Southbound from Tuolumne has more resupply options, in the form of resorts, at least for the first 40 or 50 miles. If you want info on that, let me know.

Megapixel
01-06-2010, 18:03
thanks for the input. after hearing this we will most definitely be heading south from tuolumne hopefully making it to the end of the JMT.

Rambler
01-06-2010, 19:43
Spectacular scenery all along the JMT. Day one south out of Tuolumne is a meander through the meadows until just below the pass. Great camping spots about a mile south of Donohue Pass. The JMT is 200+ miles, but there are several outlets down the eastern side. A side hike up to Minaret Lake about even with Red Meadows is well worth it.
Heading north from Tuolumne one could branch off the PCT and hike through the "Grand Canyon of Yosemite" and loop back to the PCT still south of Sonora.

Shhh....no bugs in August.

Dogwood
01-06-2010, 20:45
TopONomad, I've hiked all the routes mentioned by others going north from TM including, the PCT, Grand Canyon of The Tuolomne down to Hetch Hetchy from Glen Aulin, loops involving the PCT north of TM and heading back to the PCT or Hetch Hetchy, Sierra High Route north from TM over the Matterhorn down to Twin Lakes, hikes in TM itself, the JMT south from TM to Mt Whitney, hikes involving beautiful Minaret Lake, and several others. I've hitched on several of the roads from Sonora Pass to Carson Pass that Meta mention. You can't go wrong with any of those routes! Yosemite is a beautiful place with lots of possibilities. And, when you factor in Kings Canyon and Sequoia NPs you have endless hiking possibilities with some of the finest scenery found anywhere in the U.S.(that's why I keep going back!). BUT, if you are coming all the way from FL to do one hike I would stick with your original plan and thru-hike the JMT SOBO from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mt Whitney and out through Whitney Portal!!! IMO, and according to the opinion of many others, the JMT holds some of the finest hiking eye candy in the U.S.!...That's one reason why the JMT is consistently ranked overall as one of the TOP 10 hikes in the country. Perhaps, TOP 5...When you also factor in the beauty of Yosemite Valley(JMT northern terminus) and that you would summit the tallest mountain in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney,(JMT southern terminus) it makes for an OUTSTANDING hike that doesn't dissappoint!

With a JMT thru you also have the relatively easy options of spending one or two days taking in gorgeous Yosemite Valley(why do you think so many tiredlessly fought to preserve it?), summit Half Dome(it's right off the JMT), hitchhike or take the bus about 20 miles down to Mariposa Grove from the store/PO in TM to experience 30 ft + diam. Giant Redwoods, and, and, and...

Megapixel
01-06-2010, 21:30
TopONomad, I've hiked all the routes mentioned by others going north from TM including, the PCT, Grand Canyon of The Tuolomne down to Hetch Hetchy from Glen Aulin, loops involving the PCT north of TM and heading back to the PCT or Hetch Hetchy, Sierra High Route north from TM over the Matterhorn down to Twin Lakes, hikes in TM itself, the JMT south from TM to Mt Whitney, hikes involving beautiful Minaret Lake, and several others. I've hitched on several of the roads from Sonora Pass to Carson Pass that Meta mention. You can't go wrong with any of those routes! Yosemite is a beautiful place with lots of possibilities. And, when you factor in Kings Canyon and Sequoia NPs you have endless hiking possibilities with some of the finest scenery found anywhere in the U.S.(that's why I keep going back!). BUT, if you are coming all the way from FL to do one hike I would stick with your original plan and thru-hike the JMT SOBO from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mt Whitney and out through Whitney Portal!!! IMO, and according to the opinion of many others, the JMT holds some of the finest hiking eye candy in the U.S.!...That's one reason why the JMT is consistently ranked overall as one of the TOP 10 hikes in the country. Perhaps, TOP 5...When you also factor in the beauty of Yosemite Valley(JMT northern terminus) and that you would summit the tallest mountain in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney,(JMT southern terminus) it makes for an OUTSTANDING hike that doesn't dissappoint!

With a JMT thru you also have the relatively easy options of spending one or two days taking in gorgeous Yosemite Valley(why do you think so many tiredlessly fought to preserve it?), summit Half Dome(it's right off the JMT), hitchhike or take the bus about 20 miles down to Mariposa Grove from the store/PO in TM to experience 30 ft + diam. Giant Redwoods, and, and, and...

ok you've gotten me excited now!

here's the deal...I'm concerned with certain logistics and the zeroes we want to take along the way and being able to finish in our given time (30 days including travel time)... which is why we have been considering other options. I think we are most considering leaving from tuolomne and heading to the end of the JMT, Lord willing and the creeks don't rise...however, i've never seen anything out west except passing over in a plane in route to HI, so I'm damn pumped and I want to take in as much as possible. We also don't want to do mega mile days, as this is our one and only vacation this year, and we have never seen elevation change like this before...our hikes in the past have consisted of typical Southern AT elevation changes, i.e. mostly VA and WV. the section between muir ranch and whitney has us a bit concerned as well due to the length between resupplies. Kings Canyon and Sequoia NPs as well as the Redwoods have my attention now too... oh man.

A-Train
01-06-2010, 21:57
We are looking at multiple possibilities for a July backpacking trip and are wondering about the section of the PCT starting at Tuolumne and heading north for anywhere between 75-100 miles. Please tell me what you can about this section, including resupply. thanks !

This was my least favorite section until the trail splits (horse trail/hiker trail) about a half day south of Sonora Pass. Last couple miles and ridges before Sonora were magical.

Maybe it was the 100 degree heat wave that hit Cali (90's up at high elevations) or maybe it was me getting over being really sick in Mammoth, or maybe it was the heinous mosquitoes we had the first few days in July through there. The PCT seemed to very uncharacteristically go up and down through much of this section and often unecessarily. It did have some very pretty sections, but they were hard to enjoy under a head net (that lake .5 off trail is TOTALLY worth going to, camping at and swimming in).

If it were me I'd pick a different section, but that's me.

Spirit Walker
01-07-2010, 00:39
Thirty days is plenty of time to do the JMT. It's only 211 miles. Yes, there are some good climbs, but the trail is graded for horses and has lots and lots of switchbacks. I did the trail in 17 or 18 days and was generally finished hiking by early to mid-afternoon. (Which was good because we had thunderstorms every afternoon.) Remember, in July the days are quite long. Ten miles a day is only five hours of hiking. That's plenty of time to fish and explore, if that's what you want to do. I didn't take time off, but I never felt the need to do so. I just had a couple of short days where I rested on the trail. You can do this.

Dogwood
01-07-2010, 01:46
Spirit Walker, who I totally agree with on everything she said, beat me to the response, but 3 wks to hike 220 or so JMT miles beginning at Happy Isles in YV, summiting Mt Whitney, and exiting at Whitney Portal is less than 11 miles per day. Do about 12-14/day, which is totally realistic(and less than avg for JMTers, especially during the long daylight hrs of late summer, no snow travel, and fair weather of the season) if you begin acclimating by going SOBO, and allowing for a zero day or two, and you have a no stress enjoy your time oohh ahhh thru-hike of the JMT WITH 9 more days flexibility for traveling to/from FL and other sightseeing in YV or more zeros. No problema my friend! What an annual vacation! Wouldn't be surprised if you have time left at the end of your hike to do something additional and, again, that's on a relaxed journey.

You have about 5 months for planning. Think about it. I understand the logistics, elevation changes, and unfamiliarity of the region can initially cause concern but there are some here on WB, including myself, would be happy to help out another hiker planning for the JMT! And, the recommended JMT guidebooks discussed on other threads are all well written and make logistics of resupply far less daunting they they at first appear!

sbhikes
01-08-2010, 16:27
Friends and I took an alternate route through the 75 miles north of Tuolumne Meadows. We chose to hike down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne instead of on the PCT proper. Oh my, that was absolutely beautiful! We descended down into the 4000 feets. Then we had to climb back out of that. Exhausting! Saw a bear! I really liked the way everything changes and looks so red and interesting around Sonora Pass, too. The area from Sonora Pass toward Carson Pass is considered some of the best alpine wildflower places you can visit. Prime flower season is in July. Maybe early July.

As for going Southbound, it's a big challenge, but you can do it. Lots of people do. Lots of people drive from Los Angeles at sea level and climb to the top of Whitney in a day. You'll be so much better acclimated than these people! You'll meet lots of JMTers, too. It'll be like thru-hiking the PCT only you're thru-hiking the JMT instead. It's pretty there, too, like walking through an Ansel Adams calendar.

Meta
01-08-2010, 19:08
I definitely agree with the overall sentiment of this thread.

Hike the JMT Southbound. A month is plenty of time to finish it, even taking your time. you could easily hike the valley up to tuolumne with 12 mile days, zero, hike to red's meadow/mammoth lakes with 12 mile days, zero, hike to VVR with 12-14 mile days, zero, hike to kearsarge pass with 14 mile days, zero in bishop/independence, then hike back in and summit whitney and go down via the portal in 3 weeks or less. That's a VERY relaxed pace on a trail of that grade, even considering the elevation. And during that time of year there wouldn't be any snow to speak of. And it's VERY beautiful, although I personally like the North Cascades and Colorado high rockies (san juans, front range, etc.) more beautiful, this part of the sierras is definitely still way up in the top 5 hikes. And navigation and such is a cinch.

Meta
01-08-2010, 19:09
Although PS, quick aside, do yourself a big favor and don't have too giant of a pack. JMTers I've always met (granted these are much earlier season JMTers) punish the hell out of themselves with 50-60 pound packs. Keep your pack, with food and such, under 40 pounds and you'll enjoy your time out there WAY more, and the miles will come much easier. If you can keep your pack under 30 you'll be amazed how much easier the hiking is. You sound like you've done plenty of AT stuff, so I'm sure you've realized this already, though.

Sly
01-08-2010, 19:29
ok you've gotten me excited now!

here's the deal...I'm concerned with certain logistics and the zeroes we want to take along the way and being able to finish in our given time (30 days including travel time)... which is why we have been considering other options.

30 days is plenty to do the JMT (220 miles). Start from Yosemite Valley, visit Mariposa Grove 1st to see the Giant Sequoias. Mail or buy food in TM since you walk right by, send a drop to VVR. As a JMT hiker you get a free nights stay at VVR. More nights in the tent cabins cost $10. The place is kind of pricey but the food is decent and rather than paying for a ferry, as I said before, you can take the Goodale Pass Trail in and Bear Ridge out. (you won't miss much if anything except about 60 switchbacks up).

I'd take a zero in TM and VVR.

You could even extend your hike by bailing at Bishop Pass and resupplying there or Kearsarge Pass and resupplying in Independence. Either adds about 30 miles RT and a couple hitches but it's all good.

sbhikes
01-08-2010, 23:36
My friend did the JMT with a 75lb pack. Took him 30 days. You'll probably find it easier than he did!

calicant
01-21-2010, 12:56
Shhh....no bugs in August.

I did the southbound JMT starting August 9th 2008 at Happy Isles and saw no mosquitos.

3rd August 2009, I set out from Whitney Portal to do the JMT in reverse and there were many mosquitos - all the way northbound to Muir Trail Ranch. Must have been a late season for them last year.

Still loved the trip. :D

Rambler
01-25-2010, 18:37
Dogwood, I'm considering the Sierra High Route from Tuolumne to Twin Lakes or to the Matterhorn and then loop back via the Matterhorn Canyon and trails back to Tuolumne as suggested in the Roper Guide.
1. Since it is hard to figure out mileage on the SHR, how many days did you take to reach Twin Lakes?
2 What about footwear? I hiked the JMT in Merrell Moab Ventilators, low cuts with mesh. Would they stand up to talus, scree or other rock in the SHR section? Concerned about rock abrasion, I am thinking of switching to a mid height.
3 Did you get permits for both Twins Lakes (Bridgeport) and Yosemite?
4 Any thoughts on doing the hike in reverse, Twins to Tuolumne mainly because I would rather rely on a hitch at the start rather than the beginning into or away from the Lakes. Public transportation is easier in or out of Yosemite.
5 Any specific issues finding landmarks and the route? were the passes obvious as you approached? For example, Stanton Pass? On the JMT I can remember wondering where the passes were as I looked up from below. Some were not evident until a corner was rounded! Looking back at Pinchot from the south it was hard to tell, and looking up from Palisades to find Mather.

Another plan is Sonora Pass to Tuolumne via the PCT. Can't decide. I would really like to go off-trail. The hikes would be in mid August.
If I start at Sonora Pass or hike into Yosemite from other northern trails, can I get a permit without going to Yosemite to get it?

Dogwood
01-25-2010, 21:33
Rambler, coming down from Vogelsang Pass past Vogelsang High Camp on the Rafferty Ck Tr to its end at the JMT/PCT the SHR has you going right at this junction and following along or near Tiga Pass Rd down to the Gaylor lakes TH. At the Rafferty Ck/JMT and PCT junction I went left about 2-3 miles on the JMT/PCT to TM for my last resupply pick up to get me to Twin Lakes. I spent a night at the Campground in TM. The next morning, instead of walking on Tioga Pass Rd(dangerous) down to the Gaylor lakes TH I just got a ride. It took me 3 whole(12 hr hiking days) days to get to Twin Lakes. I brought 3 1/2 days food. That included a side trip off the SHR and up to Mt Conness. I rarely saw anyone on this entire section and that was only on the Gaylor Lakes Tr and near Saddleback Lake. The highlights of this section including its solitude was, Mt Conness, Sky Pilot Col(I had to keep looking at my maps and SHR description because I kept thinking Roper wants me to go there!, that can't be right), Virgina Canyon, going over Horse Cr Pass directly below the Matterhorn, and coming down to Twin Lakes on the steep Horse Ck Tr.(nice waterfall). It snowed on me the last two days, the temp was dropping dramatically at night, I was going minimal UL, and I knew there was a cafe w/ hot coffee awaiting at Twin Lakes. Should go without saying, but the views are outstanding.

I try to match my footwear to the hike. I often thru-hike on established trails in Trailrunners. IMO, even though short cut UL hikers are possible, I would recommend more protection for your ankles and a more supportive mid cut shoe. It can also help keep debris out of you shoes. Besides, you are not hiking those huge thru-hiking mileage days with all the bushwacking involved. The section from TM to Twin Lakes, as it is w/ much of the SHR, is mostly off trail on typically steep terrain involving scree, talus, and going over trail less passes. Even though I also have Moab Ventilator low cuts I could have used I wore mid cut Keen Voyaguers. The Mid cut ventilators sound more appropriate.

I got my entire SHR permit at the SHR southern terminus TH in Kings Canyon NP. My permit was checked 4 times by rangers during my hike in late Sept early Oct. Never saw any rangers between TM and Twin Lakes. It's out there!

I don't remember cutting across the Matterhorn Canyon Tr. I do remember crossing several trails in Virginia Canyon - the Virgina Canyon Tr. Roper mentions lots of alternates throughout his book. I suppose you could hike down the Virgina Canyon Tr to the Matterhorn Tr. I've never done that. Although, like I said ,Virginia canyon is pretty.

I would definitely have Roper's SHR book if you plan on going from TM to Twin Lakes. There is no one else out there to ask about directions. I also had Andrew Skurka's SHR maps, which I highly recommend. They are extremely fairly priced and well done! Roper's book also takes into account reversing the SHR, but it is not as detailed in this regard!

From Sonora Pass heading south you have some great options. You could take the PCT to one of the trails in or around Kerrick Canyon like the Bear Valley Tr or Rodgers Canyon Tr(both can kick your butt, especially going north) and come out around Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. The other, but longer option, w/ even more ups and downs, is taking the PCT south to Glen Aulin and hiking out to hetch hetchy along The Gand Canyon of the Tuolmne. Another awesome hike. Bring your fishing gear on this one.

Rambler
01-26-2010, 12:48
Thanks, Dogwood. Great info.!
The loop Roper mentions starts 1/2 mile short of Horse Creek Pass to a "prominent saddle south of Matterhorn Peak"...etc. down to the trail in upper Matterhorn Canyon. Looks like it is just southeast of Burro Pass.

I just got A. Skurua's mapset. Very Helpul. Rough mileage is around 26 miles, Tuol. to Twins. I think he now has a little note near that area you mentioned about him "wanting you to go there" The note says: "Go West here to find Class 2"

Thanks for the tip on shoes. The Keen looks like it might have a bit more protection than the mid- Merrell which has mesh pretty close to the sole. Both are at REI near me, so I'll test the fit.

Dogwood
01-26-2010, 16:38
I just dug out Skurkas' SHR mapset w/ mileage chart. Yes, 26-27 miles from Tuolomne Meadows Lodge to Twin Lakes/Mono Village. This section is labeled Canyon Country. If you got Skurka's maps and something like a Harrison or Nat. Geo. Traills Illustrated Yosemite NP map you have all or most of what you need(maybe some more detailed 7.5 min Matterhorn area topos?, depends on just how much off trail you are attempting)

Some notes about Roper's SHR book: he leaves somethings for you to figure out yourself. I guess he purposefully designed it that way. Makes it more of an adventure. I kinda like it, but it does take a bit getting used to his route description writing style and you feeling comfortable w/ your hiking and route finding skills. However, DO pay attention to what he says. I found him to almost be right on with his insights everytime.

After looking at my topos, I could see how going over or near Burro Pass into Matterhorn Canyon would take you real close to the base of the Matterhorn. I'm just assuming but I guess he has you crossing Virgina Canyon to Soldier Lake near Grey Butte and finding Burro Pass. Not really sure if he has you going over Stanton Pass before finding Burro Pass though.

Rambler
01-26-2010, 23:12
On Skurka's Map 5, there is one red dot south of Horse Creek Pass, and just west of Twin Peaks. If you connect that dot with Burro Pass it looks like it passes through an opening between contours which I assume is the "saddle" between Matterhorn Pk. and Whorl Mountain. From there drop south of Burro Pass down to the trail out of Matterhorn Canyon. The red dot mentioned above is about at the source of Spiller Creek, but I see how dropping down from Stanton Pass over to Matterhorn Canyon would be an option.
In the book entitled The High Sierras, Peaks, Passes and Trails, the pass referred to above appears to be called "Matterhorn Pass" 11,320, .5 so. of Matterhorn Pk. I hope I don't panic when I see some of these peaks. The book shows them all from a mountaineering perspective...sheer walls of jagged rock faces!

Do you have a link to any of your photos of this section?

Apologies for sidetracking this post from the PCT.