Putting a Leash on an Ice Axe

[ATbound]

Got an ice axe recently, are leashes advisable and what's the best way to attach one?

[Bearpaw]

Got an ice axe recently, are leashes advisable and what's the best way to attach one?

When I taught for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), we had simple 3/4-inch webbing run through the head of the axe with a loop tied.

However, we almost always recommended students did NOT use them. Some of the nastier evacuations the school have dealt with has been from a novice falling on a slick slope, dragging the axe with them, and impaling themselves multiple times during the slide.

I've walked a fair number of steep snowpack areas in the last decade, and I've only had to do an unplanned self-arrest three times. Mostly, my ice axe has been an uphill-side hand grip that I plant and hold before my next steps. It also helped on glissades to slow and occasional fully stop myself. I've always used my own personal axe, and I've never had a leash on it.

The only time I would recommend using a leash is in terrain where a dropped axe would be nearly impossible to recover.

[BrianLe]

I think this is yet another in a long series of "questions that can generate endless debate", but FWIW, I'm with Bearpaw on this. Of course the leash advocates say that the axe does you no good if you drop it (as indeed a person might) when whatever causes you to fall happens. One response to that is to poll those who have seen someone's leg opened up with the Adze on a fall or other mishap where the axe wasn't needed to self-arrest.

FWIW, another aspect where a leash can be a PITA is when you're switching hands each time you zigzag up- or down-hill. Not a great thing to drive a safety trade-off, but still --- a factor.

I guess in part it boils down to thinking through the situations that might (most likely) cause you to (really) need to self-arrest. In at least some of those, you're pretty aware of the risk, and hanging on to the axe.

[fiddlehead]

I always wore the leash when traversing and glad for the added security in case of a fall.
I've had 2 self arrests (in real life falls, not practicing) , neither time did I drop the ax so, I never thought about inpaling myself after a fall.
This is a new dilemna to me.

I do highly recommend that anyone who is going to buy an ice ax and go hike somewhere where you may need it to self arrest: Practice, practice practice! IN call kinds of conditions (steepness, snow=types, ice, snow, frontwards backwards, upside down, etc)

[Roland]

Ice axes perform different tasks, and the decision to use a leash is largely dependent on how you plan to use the axe.

When held by its shaft, i.e. in climbing mode, a leash is absolutely essential so that the load on the ice axe is not borne entirely by one's grip around the shaft of the axe. When used to climb, the load is transferred to the axe, via the leash, which attaches to the wrist (relieving the hand from some of the work).

When held by the head, i. e. in walking mode, one may argue that a leash is not necessary, or even dangerous, for the reasons stated above. However, when mountaineering in an area where self-arrest may be necessary to save your life, I feel it is critical to ensure that you do not become separated from your axe. Better to be alive with lacerations, than dead a safe distance away from your sharp ice axe.

[mweinstone]

okay, lets asume that this sausage cooking isnt from readinmg terminal farmers market. and specificly from godshalls turkey. and lets assume the ice ax leash slipped off and i tumbled down the steep hill that falls sharply away from my oven into a bergshrund.lost, with no breakfast meats? i think not. use a leash.

[burger]

Easy directions for making an adjustable leash are here: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/ula_helix_ice_axe_carbon_fiber.html

I used Kelty triptease for mine, but any sort of thin rope should work. And if you don't know your knots, try http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php