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Stir Fry
03-07-2010, 09:05
I'm looking at getting a new knife and was wondering if anyone knows how well titanium hold an edge.
This is the knife,
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=27571

Roland
03-07-2010, 09:32
Without knowing the Rockwell Hardness of the blade, your question is impossible to answer with any accuracy. The specs shown on the site you provided do not give hardness information.

I would not buy a knife in this price range without Rockwell Hardness info.

EDIT: Adding to my suspicion of the quality of this knife is the statement that the blade is "corrosion-resistant". Titanium does not rust. It is a shiny, lustrous metal. So, I question the amount of titanium in the alloy used to make this knife. When no details of materials or their properties (Rockwell scale) are given, it's probably safe to say the manufacturer doesn't want us to know. Buyer beware.

Spokes
03-07-2010, 09:37
Some metallurgist's call Titanium "an over glorified aluminum". Sure it's strong, light weight, and anti-magnetic (that's why military bomb disposal experts use titanium probes) but it's not the best knife material for holding an edge.

Manwich
03-07-2010, 09:43
Checklist Criteria for Knife:

□ Is it a knife?
□ Does it cut things?

JustaTouron
03-07-2010, 09:47
but it's not the best knife material for holding an edge.

Thread drift warning:

What is the best knife material for holding an edge?

Roland
03-07-2010, 09:50
Thread drift warning:

What is the best knife material for holding an edge?

High Carbon Steel, but it may not be the best choice in the field. If not properly maintained, it will eventually rust.

Spokes
03-07-2010, 09:52
Ditto.............. high carbon steel

JAK
03-07-2010, 11:05
The best amount of carbon and temper also depends on whether or not you are going to be doing any whacking or prying with it. For whacking and prying you need more toughness, which usually means less hardness, so you may have to sharpen it more often. A knife made out of a hacksaw blade, for example, would be brittle. If you are going to use the blade around fire also, you have to figure out whether this might change the temper. Fun stuff.

Not sure about titanium. I understand it is light, and strong, and corrossion resistant, and has very good properties at very high temperatures. I am not sure about hardness and toughness though, which are the most important properties for a blade. Hard to beat carbon steel for toughness.

Actually, for low temperatures, high carbon steel could have toughness issues if you ever do work outside below 0F or so. I would look into that before doing any whacking or prying. I would imagine medium carbon steels might be better in some applications.

yaduck9
03-07-2010, 11:41
beware of companies that try to reinvent the wheel....

Wise Old Owl
03-07-2010, 12:13
Ahh it's definatly lightweight, Ok so its not carbon steel. I take issue with the missing point. The knapping end is interesting. I think it would make an interesting piece amongst your gear.

Wise Old Owl
03-07-2010, 12:19
Here is my recent purchase:

http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/cabelas/s7_519382_imageset_01?$main-Large$

2.8 oz 3 1/4 blade (folding & Lock)

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp;jsessionid=SI4FS30RJ0HDDLAQBBKSCONMCAEFAI WE?id=0072761519382a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=1550202&cm_ite=0072761519382a&_requestid=42476

GGS2
03-07-2010, 12:19
The original Mora knives had a laminated blade. The core was very hard carbon steel, laminated to mild steel on the outsides. The blade was also quite thick. Their marketing showed pictures of the blade being driven through a bolt, and bent 90 degrees in a vice without breaking or chipping the edge. I don't know if I would try any stunts like that, but my Mora blade has never chipped, and holds an edge forever. Also, so long as the blade has a high polish, carbon steel is quite rust resistant in ordinary use. Just clean it and store it dry.

On the other hand: The best overall non-laminated blade material is probably a hardening grade of tool steel, or some other high alloy steel. Properties are rust resistance, maybe not entirely stainless, very high hardness coupled with toughness. There are quite a few to choose from.

The reason stainless blades have a bad reputation is that 18-8 stainless and other austenitic alloys aren't hard enough to hold an edge like high carbon steels. However they are tough and bright even when not maintained well. But sharpening on a stone or steel used with carbon steel knives can degrade the stainless properties of the edge.

Another ancient technique for combining hard edges with tough body is differential hardening. This is the secret behind Japanese swordsmithing, and I think some high end modern knives are made this way using laser hardening. The Saracen blades were made by a technique of welding together high carbon with mild steel in a multilayer structure. This is commercially called Damascus steel, and was used in the early 20th century for shotgun barrels, among other things. Had a pretty figure in the finish, but was susceptible to corrosion failure, so few of those barrels are still in use: not suitable for smokeless powder loads.

Steel is complex and very interesting stuff. A long history and an active metallurgical study.

Roland
03-07-2010, 12:21
In my opinion, far more practical than the knife in question....and a fraction of the cost.

Wise Old Owl
03-07-2010, 13:24
In my opinion, far more practical than the knife in question....and a fraction of the cost.

You mean the Mora? I am not sure I follow the thought here.

Red Beard
03-07-2010, 15:38
I think you'd be better off with something like Wise Old Owl suggested, or even a Ka Bar Becker Necker (http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK11-Becker-Necker-Knife/dp/B001N1CBB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1267990578&sr=8-1).

DocHolliday
03-07-2010, 17:02
VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY51gVkL_2c&feature=player_embedded

http://www.coldsteel.com/tilite.html

Same weight, cheaper, no need for a sheath, reliable brand, and much more practical than that frankenstein knife. (Zytel, 4 Inch)

Plus it's legal in most, if not all states.

It is stainless steel though, which has the advantage of rust resistance, and the disadvantage of not holding an edge as well as carbon steel.

The hooks you see serve as a quick opening feature, allowing the knife to be opened with one hand using the pocket of your jeans.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/csstoreonline_2092_4990721

Spokes
03-07-2010, 17:45
http://theinkround.com/assets/images/db_images/db_Classic_SD_Swiss_Army_Knife_282x282_wb102.jpg

Roland
03-07-2010, 18:12
You mean the Mora? I am not sure I follow the thought here.

Actually, I was responding to you about the Cabelas knife you posted, but GGS2 stepped between our posts.

But, I do own a Mora, and that too is a great value.

GGS2
03-07-2010, 18:14
The little Wenger that Spokes posted is all I carry most of the time. If I figure I need more knife for some reason, I might take a lock-back (I have a nice Swiss style one), or my trusty Mora. But that's only for when I might have something serious to cut, like a tree, or some fish. Just walking, you don't need much knife. Those classy lock-backs are nice, but I think they're more for looking at and flipping around than for using to cut with. I have a really nice Russel for that. Beautiful knife.

DocHolliday
03-07-2010, 19:33
If you don't think those blades are for cutting, you aught to watch the video. =]

Wise Old Owl
03-07-2010, 19:46
Doc you can post the video you mentioned Cut & past the tag and then we can see first hand what you are talking about.

The micro Swiss Army Knife goes far too dull when cutting twig or 1/2 inch fuzz stick. I wouldn't remove my toe nails with it. Under some pressure the blade back folds and becomes useless instantly. Fine for Suit salesman to do their nails, IMO that its best left at home when hiking. Swiss Knives are more fad than glad.

tammons
03-07-2010, 19:58
Too expensive.
Get a Becker necker.
About $30 and weighs 5 oz with sheath.

http://www.cutleryshoppe.com/bkandt-beckernecker.aspx

GGS2
03-07-2010, 20:03
Well, I guess that's what I mean about having some cutting to do. The little knives are just for trimming and opening stuff, that kind of thing. If you are going camping, different story. Then you want a good sharp blade in a sheath. A folder lock-back is kinda in between. As I said, those are nice knives, but they're made more to look sharp than to be a utility knife, a tool. They are for knife enthusiasts, not for woods work.

If you want to see a practical woodsman work with a Mora knife and a woodsman's axe, look up Mors Kochanski. There's a man who knows the old wood craft.

DocHolliday
03-08-2010, 04:12
Well, I guess that's what I mean about having some cutting to do. The little knives are just for trimming and opening stuff, that kind of thing. If you are going camping, different story. Then you want a good sharp blade in a sheath. A folder lock-back is kinda in between. As I said, those are nice knives, but they're made more to look sharp than to be a utility knife, a tool. They are for knife enthusiasts, not for woods work.

If you want to see a practical woodsman work with a Mora knife and a woodsman's axe, look up Mors Kochanski. There's a man who knows the old wood craft.

I certainly agree. The knife I posted is actually made for stabbing people, but it is infact a reliable blade. A swiss army knife doesn't even qualify as anything more than a toy to me.

Aside from that, I'm a big supporter of full tang blades such as Mora's, but unfortunately in our 'liberal' states they are illegal.

Gotta love politicians --->:bananaLET'S MAKE SOME LAWS!


P.S Old Wise Owl, the video is located here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY51gVkL_2c&feature=player_embedded).

Wise Old Owl
03-09-2010, 21:55
Thanks Doc, very impressive.

brooklynkayak
03-11-2010, 08:34
The original Mora knives had a laminated blade. The core was very hard carbon steel, laminated to mild steel on the outsides....

The Mora Military model, I think it's called, is a good knife for people who cook on wood fires. Light, non-folding, finger guard, laminated, non-serrated and most of all, cheap enough that you don't freak out when it gets lost or borrowed.

As far as being illegal in NY State, I think that is only if it is concealed. I keep mine on the outside of my pack.

If cutting/splitting wood is not your thing, you can't beat those tiny Swiss Army knives with the scissors and nail file.

Hikes in Rain
03-11-2010, 08:53
Actually, in real woods situations, I tend to carry a modified version of the Nussmuck Three (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.americanbushman.com/gallery/d/1629-1/NessMuk01.JPG&imgrefurl=http://americanbushman.blogspot.com/2008/03/newest-nessmuk-trio.html&usg=__XzPj3E2uZgGNOajZk--p_QiN2kw=&h=800&w=600&sz=162&hl=en&start=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=aKb7KxS0-Kp-kM:&tbnh=143&tbnw=107&prev=/images%3Fq%3DNessmuk%2BThree%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26 sa%3DN%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us%26tbs%3Disch:1). (Link is for image purposes only, not an endorsement)

I can't find a little double bitted hatchet like that at a price that doesn't inspire a cardiac arrest, so I use a nice little single bit. More often, however, I use a little sharp folding saw. Haven't taken either on the AT in a very long time, however.

My Camper (?) model SAK suffices for much of what I need for a knife while hiking. It's the model that looks like an old-fashioned Boy Scout knife; I may have the name wrong, I've carried it a long, long time.

For the larger, I use either my old Gerber folder, any of a couple of other small sheith knives, or perhaps the pretty new big Stockman three-blader my Dad just gave me "because I've had the old one long enough."

Different tools for different purposes. It's certainly not UL, though!

JAK
03-11-2010, 09:09
Any comments on when a cold forged blade is better than a heat treated blade? I'm thinking cold worked steel makes more sense for chopping, and heat treated blades are better for slicing, but what about blades that are expected to do a little bit of both, and some prying as well? What would be the best carbon steel for such a blade?

h. hastings
03-11-2010, 10:18
There is no best steel for a blade. O1, W2, D2, 5160, 6150, etc. are all carbon steels that will all make great knife blades. The key is the heat-treat. You can have the best piece of steel in the world and if it has a crappy heat treat then you've got junk.

Just for curiosity, what are you all chopping and prying? Been camping for almost 50 years and never needed to use my knife for either task ......

JAK
03-11-2010, 10:27
For example I was camping at Tweedle Dee Tweedle Dum Falls on the Fundy Footpath. It is deep in the woods and doesn't get much sun, so there is moss growing on all the trees, even the living ones. It is very wet. Fallen branches soon become moss covered and no good. There was a big fallen tree there though, and the wood layers inside were delaminating where it split apart. You could dig out some bits with your hands, but had I a strong knife I could have dug out some more. It was good dry wood, beneath the first layer. Spruce or fir. Not sure which. The lower branches on the trees were not dry and snappy like they would normally be though. Everything was decomposing faster than usual. Very pretty little spot. Nice big swimming hole. Fire pit, just not much firewood unless you brought something like a hatchet or saw, or a strong enough blade. I hadn't.

JAK
03-11-2010, 10:33
Tweedle Dee & Tweedle Dum

Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee
They're throwin' knives into the tree
Two big bags of dead man's bones
Got their noses to the grind stone
Livin' in the Land of Nod
Trustin' their fate to the hands of God
They pass by so silently
Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee

They got a parade permit and a police escort
They're lyin' low and they're makin' hay
They seem determined to go all the way
They run a brick 'n' tile company
Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee

- Bob Dylan

icemanat95
03-11-2010, 15:03
Knife making is a pretty scientific undertaking. Each steel has different preferences for how it is best shaped, hardened, tempered, etc.

Let's understand a few stages in the process:

Metallic knives are typically made by one of two major methods:
1. Forging: hammer or die forging the blade to shape typically under high temperature.
2. Stock Removal: Grinding, milling, polishing of the blade shape out of steel stock.

Both methods can produce excellent knives. Forging is more romantic, stock removal is more cost effective for production, since it can be done by CNC machine.
Both methods introduce stresses in the crystalline structure of the blade steel. Both methods produce waste.

After a blade is forged to shape it often requires some additional stock removal to smooth out the lines and planes, and to shape the edge. Sharpening takes place a couple steps down the line though.

Hardening of the steel is performed at the end of major shaping activity. With most common knife steels, but not all, hardening is accomplished by raising the temperature of the steel to the "critical point" (which varies from steel to steel, but is typically characxterized as the point at which the steel is fully Austenitized and becomes non-magnetic. The steel is then cooled rapidly either by submerging it in oil, water or just flowing air. When performed correctly, the crystal structure of the blade will shift from Austenite to Pearlite, to Martensite and stop at that point. Martensite is an iron crystal structure in which the crystals are aligned in a rigid, lattice pattern, with a lot of carbides present. It is quite hard, reaching hardnesses similar to tempered glass in the mid-sixties on the Rockwell C scale. If this is done wrong, the blade can crack, shatter, or fail to harden. Either way there is a tremendous amount of mechanical stress in the blade at this point and it must be relieved.

Stress relief is accomplished by tempering. Tempering is a process of raising the temperature of the blade back up to a few hundred degrees or so (depending upon the steel) holding it there for a while, and then slowly bringing it back down to room temp. This may be done several times and additional cycles of reducing temp to cryogenic levels and back may also be added. Following tempering the blade should be usable, or junk. It typically loses a few points on the Rockwell C hardness scale, but gains a great deal of toughness and loses the glasslike brittleness present following hardening.

Alloys of steel: Steel is itself an alloy of iron with carbon. A minimum of about .2 percent carbon is required to turn iron into low carbon steel. Steel is not hardenable until about .4 percent carbon, and becomes too brittle for knife work above 1.2 percent give or take. Most knife making alloys don't go above .9 percent or so. Stainless steels will also contain a significant amount of chromium to make them resist corrosion/oxidization. However, the addition of chromium in the alloy weakens the crystal bonds a bit, so stainless steels lose some potential strength, and can be very difficult to sharpen and machine. Some are unweldable and unhardenable. What I consider to be the better edge holding steels used in the production market, are barely "stainless" steels like ATS-34 and 154CM (the same basic steel made in Japan and the US respectively.) These steels will rust and pretty quickly in humid, saline environments (like a sweaty pocket). The rust isn't typically deep and wipes off with an oily rag. I typically prefer a black t type finish on these steels.

Working knife hardness is typically measured on the Rockwell C Scale:
a hard steel knife might come in around 60-62 rockwells c. It'll hold an edge for a long while, but getting it there takes some real persistence and usually a diamond stone or three. Middle road is in the 58 range. Low hardness for a knife is in the 56 and down range. Under 52 is unsuitable in my opinion. Titanium alloys cannot be hardened above around 48 rockwells c. Furthermore, because of the wear resistance of these alloys, resharpening and honing absolutely requires diamond abrasives.

There are a number of exotic steels out there. Spyderco's H-1 steel is nitrogen hardened through precipitation. I don't really understand it, but theoretically, the blade will continue to get harder during it's lifespan, until it reaches a point of equilibrium. It is HIGHLY corrosion resistant, and not prohibitively expensive. It tends to be a bit lighter than other stainless steels, but doesn't get as hard. It is hard enough though and quite tough. Spyderco refers to this line as their Salt line, and it is particularly designed for maritime use.

Titanium knives were originally developed by Mission Knives, for use by Underwater Demolition Team operators, who needed a knife to do some cutting and probing around military explosive devices, many of which are fitted with magnetic anti-tamper devices. Previously the "knives" employed were made from berryllium, which is a non-sparking, non-magnetic metal. It couldn't get real sharp or stay that way though. Titanium is a grand alternative. But as a general purpose knife, it's not really up to scratch.

The strength of titanium is over-rated. Titanium is stronger than Aluminum, but significantly less strong than similarly purposed steels. It is stronger than steel by weight, but to achieve similar strength in a part to a similarly purposed part, requires that the titanium part by larger in volume, because of the lower density of the titanium. The part will still be light, but it'll be bulky. So titanium is really a compromise material, used when strength and low weight are required, and usually where heat tolerance and resistance to wsork hardening and fatigue are an issue. But if mass is not an issue, steel is usually a better option.

As for specific knife choices, you can certainly manage the AT with a tiny little micro knife such as a Swiss Army esquire keychain knife. Wouldn't be my choice though. I carried a large Swiss Army knife with a full sized blade and some other useful tools. In my daily life I carry a much more robust locking folder such as the Benchmade Griptilliam or an Emerson CQC7. These knives are built to withstand significant use and abuse, and feature beefy blades and handles. They are not cheap, ranging from 100 dollars up to 200.00 depending upon specific features. They are not multi-bladed knives. I still carry the Swiss Army knife on trail for the added utility.

The Becker Necker mentioned above is a nice neck knife, designed to give you a tough utility cutter in a light, small package. It's a good choice. I would also bring a lightweight diamond honing tool to keep the edge up.

Enough droning on.

TOW
03-11-2010, 15:11
I'm looking at getting a new knife and was wondering if anyone knows how well titanium hold an edge.
This is the knife,
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=27571you want a good knife then make sure you go with a good carbon steel knife or 440 steel, Solingen steels are good as well.....

beakerman
03-11-2010, 17:44
$100+ for a pig sticker?! nope I'll make due with my walmart special. Sure it's heavier but I won't cry too hard when I drop it in the leaves and loose it or I loan it to a "buddy" and it disappears.

tuswm
03-12-2010, 03:36
Wow that cold steel tilite is a sweet knife. I wanted to buy the blue one but they don't make it anymore. That is the sweetest knife I have ever seen.

I have been toying with my new lansky sharpening kit with a some other stones and polishers I have. I have noticed that most knives come with a 22 to 28 degree Angle on the blade. I have tried sharpening it to about 15 to make it much sharper on some of my toy knifes. some that I have tried this on turn out fine. Others are just way to soft and have no hope of holding and edge this sharp and cant even sharpen a twig with out bending the edge over. If I was looking to make a razor sharp edge around 15 degrees what type of metal should I be looking for? I would like something that I can put a razor edge on it and be legal for EDC.

winger
03-13-2010, 08:56
If cost isn't a barrier and you would like a full sized knife that WILL hold an edge: RAT cutlery, Fehrman knives, Falkniven, or Bark River.
Otherwise go to Walmart or Cabelas.

Rocket Jones
03-13-2010, 10:50
I'll second the Bark River suggestion. They are fine knives.

Wise Old Owl
03-13-2010, 11:35
$100+ for a pig sticker?! nope I'll make due with my walmart special. Sure it's heavier but I won't cry too hard when I drop it in the leaves and loose it or I loan it to a "buddy" and it disappears.

Honest Beakerman, one doesnt need to spend a hundred, but pease whenever possible buy American, Rustproof, quality metal. It will last a lifetime.

Del Q
03-13-2010, 11:48
http://www.amazon.com/Buck-0860BKS-B-Hartsook-Fixed-Blade/dp/B000MX6G8U

A thru hiker a few years ago said that all he carries is a razor blade. Yes, I have taken the "do what I can to cut weight" and retain functionality, this knife is even more than I need. Ounces add up - 100% personal choice.

icemanat95
03-15-2010, 12:05
Wow that cold steel tilite is a sweet knife. I wanted to buy the blue one but they don't make it anymore. That is the sweetest knife I have ever seen.

I have been toying with my new lansky sharpening kit with a some other stones and polishers I have. I have noticed that most knives come with a 22 to 28 degree Angle on the blade. I have tried sharpening it to about 15 to make it much sharper on some of my toy knifes. some that I have tried this on turn out fine. Others are just way to soft and have no hope of holding and edge this sharp and cant even sharpen a twig with out bending the edge over. If I was looking to make a razor sharp edge around 15 degrees what type of metal should I be looking for? I would like something that I can put a razor edge on it and be legal for EDC.

Stainless steels typically will not take or hold an edge as well as high carbon steels (assuming a proper heat treat). There are exceptions to this, like S30V, ATS34 and 154CM. These are not classic stainless steels though. The 440 series are adequate, US made steels. They are roughly equivalent to the japanese AUS6 and AUS8 steels. The AUS8 is the better of those two. 440C is generally superior to 440A. The 440's are pretty rust resistant and harden adequately. They sharpen well with the right tools and hold an edge OK.

I prefer the harder, higher carbon and lower Chromium "stainless steels" like ATS34 and 154CM, as well as D2 tool steel. All of these steels will rust if you don't take care of them, which is why I recommend some sort of coating on all these steels such as a Birdsong Black T, or a DLC coating or just baked on epoxy paint such as Cold Steel uses. They reduce the exposure of the steel to just the sharpened edge. These steels harden up very well and hold an edge very well. You should be able to bring the edge angle down quite a bit on these.

Be aware, that the more acute the edge angle, the less wear and tear the edge will withstand. You don't chop wood with a chef's knife, but it's hard to shave with an axe. A lot of field utility knives, like the RAT's, Beckers, Busses and the like are super durable, and take and hold a wicked edge, but the edge geometry on those is designed for hard work, chopping, batoning, etc, rather than surgery and filet work. That's why I like to carry a pair of knives on trail, a Swiss Army knife with sharp, narrow angle blade geometry and useful tools, and a beefy utility blade that can chop, pierce and dig in a pinch.

My EDC folder is a Benchmade Griptilian with a linerlock and a hollow ground blade. I can hone that edge fine for razor like performance, or I can hone it acute for better wear. 154CM steel, DLC coated. Good knife.

Panzer1
03-15-2010, 14:19
The thing is that there are so many good knives out there that its hard to decide. Its not like there is only one best knife for backpacking.

Panzer

Bleemus
03-15-2010, 16:51
Here is the only knife I bring hiking...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2B6d9c5MUL._AA260_.jpg

tuswm
03-17-2010, 18:45
ok what about folding carbon steel pocket knives?

ike1985
03-20-2010, 15:28
this knife is lighter, and full tang:

http://www.crkt.com/Ritter-RSK-Mk5

1 oz knife

tammons
03-20-2010, 15:48
While okay for an emergency or an UL pack, I say spend $3 more and carry 4oz more and get a Becker necker.

ike1985
03-20-2010, 15:51
While okay for an emergency or an UL pack, I say spend $3 more and carry 4oz more and get a Becker necker.

What do u use your becker for?

tammons
03-20-2010, 16:13
General utility knife mostly.

Its just high quality, good steel and light with a 3" blade.
It holds a good edge.
It is barely big enough to baton small wood with. That's mostly why I was looking for a 3-4" blade. I would have really preferred a 3 3/4-4" blade but when you get into that size knife they get heavier. At least I could not find any

Its got a 3" rounded drop point, perfect for skinning an animal, although that has little to do with backpacking.

I wrapped the handle with silicone rescue tape.

Also made a leather sheath for it which I like a lot better on
the belt that I like a lot better than the plastic sheath.

It weighs the same.

The knife you linked is nice and makes a better neck knife that you will actually wear around your neck. Either that or the Buck Hartsook.

The Becker necker is to big for me to wear around my neck.

ike1985
03-20-2010, 16:23
General utility knife mostly.

Its just high quality, good steel and light with a 3" blade.
It holds a good edge.
It is barely big enough to baton small wood with. That's mostly why I was looking for a 3-4" blade. I would have really preferred a 3 3/4-4" blade but when you get into that size knife they get heavier. At least I could not find any

Its got a 3" rounded drop point, perfect for skinning an animal, although that has little to do with backpacking.

I wrapped the handle with silicone rescue tape.

Also made a leather sheath for it which I like a lot better on
the belt that I like a lot better than the plastic sheath.

It weighs the same.

The knife you linked is nice and makes a better neck knife that you will actually wear around your neck. Either that or the Buck Hartsook.

The Becker necker is to big for me to wear around my neck.

general utility knife, so that means what? batoning firewood, spearing animals, what do u acutally use it for. When i had a huge knife, i still do, a fallknive A1, it weighed me down. I sat down and thought about all the ways i used it and saw no reason why all those uses (first aid, fishing, cutting toggles or my hammock/tarp ridgelines and suspensions, slicing tender for fires(rarely needed as i dont normally build fires anymore, too tiring and uncessary), opening purification tabs, and more), i realized i did'nt need to carry a 5-6inch blade into the backcountry. My point is, if you can't justify the weight, whycarry it? If its for self defense against an bear/mountain lion, well thats might wishful thinking, but you would never survive that.

ike1985
03-20-2010, 16:27
I guess its a matter of preference, If i was batoning wood, i would carry a larger knife for sure, but since i don't, theres no need. HYOH

The_Saint
03-26-2010, 23:25
Get a SpyderCo Ladybug with H1 Steel and call it good. Super light, super durable, rustproof and perfect sizing.

Wags
03-27-2010, 10:20
i use and enjoy one of these
http://www.swedishknives.com/760craft.htm

light, strong, cheap. the holy trinity of backpacking

SunnyWalker
04-01-2010, 22:35
For backpacking I light the Becker Necker knife made by KaBar. Around the neck, not in pocket. The sheath is hard plastic stuff. Really good systerm for me.

Incahiker
04-01-2010, 23:14
I didn't have the time to read all this, but I was into knife making for a little while. I would look for something like 1095 or A2 Tool steel. A lot depends on how well the maker heat treats the knife, actually it has everything to do with it. If it isn't heat treated properly, then it is just junk. I like High Carbon steel, 1095 or A2 are the best. They get extremely sharp, I mean extremely, and can hold that edge for quite a while. They new super steels are pretty good and stainless, such as S30V are pretty good also, but I like high carbon steels the best. Check out the Bark river knives the north star. It is my favorite all around knife.

The top 2 are the north star knives

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z288/incaphoto/DSCF6070.jpg

Incahiker
04-01-2010, 23:18
Also, these Gransfors Bruks hatchets are really good too. I use the one on the very left whenever I go for hikes. It only weighs 11 ounces and comes in handy for processing fish out on the river. Can behead and gut a fish in 30 seconds. Also nice for making kindling. Its hand made in Sweden. The steel is as good as you can get and will hold an edge for ever.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z288/incaphoto/Picture011.jpg

WalkSoftly33
04-02-2010, 01:47
Folts Minimalist neck knife. 1.1oz + 0.5oz sheath = 1.6oz total

Couldnt quite link a picture for these but very functional for the weight


I will be bringing a Leatherman Micra as well = 1.7oz

1.7+1.6=3.3oz

no Superultralight ala a single razor, but not crazy heavy either

noah22
04-02-2010, 20:16
if your looking for a medium sized knife that can do it all look no further than the SOG Seal Pup. best knife ive ever had, and if your willing to overlook the weight, its a definetly must on any hike. the half serrrated 5 1/2 in blade holds a razor sharp edge and paired with the nearly indestructible kraton non slip handle this is one knife that will do it all. not to mention for a good knife the price is quite reasonable at $60. im sure all the hardcore UL hikers will scream at me for even suggesting such a tool. in an emergency (wich i know is not often) the full tang blade can make an excellent self defense weapon and though small can split wood, cut rope, whittle, make gear repairs, it can even be used to shave (the blade is razor sharp and ones quite easily). A knife is any outdoorsmans best friend, get oen that wont let you down.

Wise Old Owl
10-26-2012, 22:22
Without knowing the Rockwell Hardness of the blade, your question is impossible to answer with any accuracy. The specs shown on the site you provided do not give hardness information.

I would not buy a knife in this price range without Rockwell Hardness info.

EDIT: Adding to my suspicion of the quality of this knife is the statement that the blade is "corrosion-resistant". Titanium does not rust. It is a shiny, lustrous metal. So, I question the amount of titanium in the alloy used to make this knife. When no details of materials or their properties (Rockwell scale) are given, it's probably safe to say the manufacturer doesn't want us to know. Buyer beware.

My best guess - I took a pass the blade is too short.



Grade 2 (a/k/a CP-2) Titanium


Minimum Properties
Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi
50,000


Yield Strength, psi
40,000 - 65,000


Elongation
20% min


Rockwell Hardness
B70 - B90

Carl Calson
11-03-2012, 16:10
http://www.leatherman.com/product/Style_CS

most functional multitool i've seen. you don't use a big knife much on the trail.

staehpj1
11-03-2012, 16:36
I am kind of surprised so many folks feel the need for such large knives. I have been carrying a Gerber LST UL and at about $12, 0.6 oz, and a bit under a 2" blade it is all the knife I need for backpacking.

swjohnsey
11-03-2012, 16:38
That's what I carry . . . for bears.

RCBear
11-03-2012, 21:57
As long as it cuts, holds an edge, and fits in my pocket, don't give two hoots about its legality. If I ever needed to use it to protect myself, I'll let the lawyer handle that end of things. if I'm using it in the woods, not overly worried about L.E.

Wise Old Owl
11-04-2012, 09:50
http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=CGkV2QA9Bq6ubUA&pid=CommerceI recently purchased both Leatherman Squirts and came around on the need for the pliers as it makes a good pot lifter when using a heiny can. I have an original Leatherman for work, but would not bring that on the trail. You need to work on your toe nails while hiking you have Squirt tool for that. As for the knife its for food and cutting open packages. The rest of it, doesn't matter.

As for the length of the blade... its too short a two or three inches in my mind is a lousy weapon. As good as poking with a stick. CRTK on my Gallery would be a weapon... But I would leave that at home too. I firmly believe one should take one knife that is sharp 3" and better than stainless in terms of hardness. I have those in my gallery too.

On a seperate note two things are happening at REI this year... They have doubled their line of Bear Grylis survival series - they are flying off the shelves.

The new alternative is BenchMade - looks solid and well made. more later.

pennsy
11-04-2012, 10:41
"As long as it cuts, holds an edge, and fits in my pocket, don't give two hoots about it" I agree with that thought as posted by another poster.
Everyone has an opinion about what knife is best to carry, use, etc. You can spend a few dollars or hundreds of dollars on your knife choice.
My main question on choice would include "what would I be doing with it". Swiss Army knives are great, as are Mora fixed blade knives, again what am I going to be doing with it.
For myself, I prefer to carry a 2 knife system - folding and fixed. I carry the Swiss Army Farmer and Grohmann #3C with a 4" blade. This combo has served me well over the last 25 years.