"Roamer" type leashes

[Lizard08]

I'm considering doing another long section hike with my dog, and am trying to decide what type of leash to use. I am thinking about getting a Ruffwear Roamer leash or the similar Granite Gear one (the kind the stretch from about 5 to 10 feet long, depending on how much tension is on them.) I was wondering if any long distance hikers have used either of these leashes, and how they performed on the trail. On my last hike I used a short nylon leash, but my dog has kind of a stop-go-stop-go-ooo-what's-that-over-there style of hiking, which made keeping a steady pace a bit difficult at times.
Note: She *will* be leashed. That is not the question. Although she is usually very well behaved, she is also a DOG, has a lot of energy, and is very curious. I am just wanting to know if anyone has experience with these particular leashes.
Thanks!

[white_russian]

Ideally the dog should walk right beside you slightly behind always on the job. Any dog no matter how much energy or curiosity can do this, just watch the Dog Whisperer and he does it all the time. The stretchy leash is just a patch job for a problem. Take command of the dog, treat it as you would a horse. A horse would never get away with stop-go-stop-go-ooo-what't-that-over-there behaviour. There are times to let them free and use all of their instincts, but when they are walking with you they should be on the job.

[Lizard08]

Whiterussian, thank you for the good advice. However, I did not mean to imply that I do not have control over my dog. I should have clarified a little more. She is trained to walk behind me, and to come up to my side when I tell her to. But I have encountered lots of situations where it's not really practical to have the dog right on your heels. There are regular obstacles like boulders and trees to climb over, and embankments to climb. Also, when I'm hiking I enjoy pausing for a brief second sometimes to look at a flower, or admire a view, or something like that. I think it's reasonable to allow my dog to do the same, as long as she knows that it's only for a second and that I'm in control. We spend the majority of the day hiking, and over the course of hundreds of miles, I would like to allow her a little freedom to look around or sniff something if she wants to, while still keeping her close by.

[Gaiter]

you can get longer leads (sometimes called training leads), i've seen retractables too but get a good quality one or you might as well bought a really long lead

training lead (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2751414&lmdn=Dog+Collars%2C+Tags+%26amp%3B+Leashes)

[Wise Old Owl]

White Russian is on the right answer, I will add that stretchy cords are the new thing, but not the answer. I could spend three weeks of "teaching" a dog with "walk with me" or solve it in a week with this>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zPHnCfH774

By the way I always get the dog out in front where I can observe them and the trail. but thats me... I have no use for a dog behind me.

[JustaTouron]

By the way I always get the dog out in front where I can observe them and the trail. but thats me... I have no use for a dog behind me.

As a non-dog owner I would say the dog should never be ahead of you where the dog is going to meet up with hikers going the opposite direction before the owner. Dog should be on a leash, next to or behind the owner at all times.

Any dog I see without an owner (or attached to a leash, presumably with owner in tow) I assume to be feral until convinced otherwise and take the appropreate actions to defend myself and my family until I know for a fact the dog is not feral.

[Old Grouse]

It sounds as though none of those posting so far have any experience with the leashes in question.

[Bleemus]

My dog walks about 10 yards in front of me almost all of the time. You won't confuse her with a feral dog wearing her red pack and sleeping pad strapped on top.

If I say heel she immediately comes to my left side. Having her there all the time is a pain on the trail.

[Class2010AT]

Dont wasted your money on buying a leash. got to walmart get a mylon rope linght 3 times the length of the leash you want maybe 7$. go to lowes and get the clip(1.50) for the collor, braid the rope and attach clip. and you got a leach much better build than any type on the market, for atleast half the price. the braid gives a little strech. I have been using this for 2.5 years, and never had a problem. that includes 700+ miles on trail and walks atleast everyother day

[Class2010AT]

White Russian is on the right answer, I will add that stretchy cords are the new thing, but not the answer. I could spend three weeks of "teaching" a dog with "walk with me" or solve it in a week with this>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zPHnCfH774

By the way I always get the dog out in front where I can observe them and the trail. but thats me... I have no use for a dog behind me.
this product is horrble, every dog i have seen with this on does nothing but try to get it off the whole time your are walking, also it doesnt allow for the dog to open its mouth fully to pant. My dog kep trying to get it off and rubbed its nose raw on the ground. i have been walking my dog with a grounp quite ofthen and many other owners have had the exect same problem.

[Dirty Nails]

I have trained dogs in competition obedience, schutzhund clubs, and for service dog work. A head harness like the "Gentle Leader" previously suggested is a useful TRAINING TOOL. I have used it to teach dogs not to pull and lunge. After a few weeks of careful use, the dog should learn to walk on-lead politely. Then it goes in the closet. It is not used long term for regular walks and certainly not on the trail. It can be dangerous in the wrong circumstances. If misused, or in a fall, it can cause very real neck damage!!! Much the same as "whiplash". If your dog lunges and pulls then you need to improve your training technique.

I recommend you forget Ceasar Milan, you're right. Do you need your dog to stay in heel position or 18 inches behind you for 9 hours per day? Good luck trying to achieve that for even 15 min.
My dog is sometimes ahead and sometimes behind. I like her a bit in front of me where I can easily see her, but I allow her some freedom. But I always expect her to be in view and close.
The most important thing is training to a reliable "recall". And I mean RELIABLE! If you can call her back to you when she meets people, other dogs, tries to eat trash, or sees a skunk/porcipine/squerril, approaches a road, EVERY TIME, then you will likely do just fine. If not, then perhaps achive these skills before taking him on the trail.
It's your dog, you decide what's good for you. Just remember that his/her safety is in your hands and there's no substitue for good traning. The leash is just your "back-up" security.
If you want an elastic leash, just get a piece of buggie cord to make one. That's what I did. And you can select whatever diameter cord you like. One thing to realize is you can't use it like a regular leash. If you try to stop the dog quickly or give a correction, it won't work because the dog goes another few feet before it feels tension. Because of this it can't be used in close quarters like on the street or in a croud.
Have fun and stay safe.

[Bleemus]

I will try to find it and post it here but there is a guy on TrailJournals.com who is posting on his AT thru-hike and he has his dog. His posts are amazing. His dog barks all night, steals peoples water bottles and chews on their boots, goes on peoples sleeping bags wet etc. etc. and he writes as this is all just fine with the people he is hiking with. Dog ran away down the trail and he searched for an hour and a half before he found him. It had stolen the food bowl of another dog and took off.

I have a strange feeling this guy will be ostracized quickly and people will change their plans to avoid him and his unruly dog. So sad that he is so clueless that he doesn't see that his dog's behavior is unacceptable.

[thelowend]

It sounds as though none of those posting so far have any experience with the leashes in question.

RIght on. And I'm gonna add to the list of inexperienced advice givers.. but I have two dogs and hike/camp with them regularly so I might be able to help. WHat I did recently was go to REI, buy 15 ft of nylon cordage (about half the diameter of normal climbing rope) and tied in such a fashion (could explain in detail, probably with a diagram if you really wanna know, just say so) so I can untie one knot and it will extend from 5 ft out to ten or fifteen if I let it out all the way. It is icredibly versatile and I can, of course, use it for way more than just a lead (clothesline, bear bag, etc, etc). It was cheap and it will certainly last for years to come.

[mr. dribbles]

My two cents-- I like the dog out in front for several reasons- I also use a trekking pole and don't want to injure my K9 partner. He is also a K9 search dog in training, so he needs to be in front to do his job, and at 70 lbs and 7 months old, if he puts the brakes on to stop and smell something, I'll have one really long arm if he is behind me.

The beauty of a stretch lead is that the dog won't step over the lead and constantly have to have the lead repositioned. Same idea with retractables. The problem is that there is no way to control the stretch lead like a retractable- if he gets a running start, you'll both get jerked when he runs out of length.

Consider making a lead with a good quality spring clip (I bought one at a tractor supply store, looks like the one on a commercial dog lead) and set the best length using tubular webbing.

[sly dog]

I have tried the retractable ones but I do prefer the rope idea. I have broken the retractable one before when it dropped on a rock and the leash kept getting stuck in the broken plastic. Also the rope is much more easily replaceable on the trail. My dog does walk in front of me for the first few miles but he is a beagle and when we hunt he is use to that when he is sniffing for rabbits. The rope is a lot easier to tie to something if an emergency arises such as an injured hiker where I dont have to worry about holding the dog and assisting. Also on long straight stretches of trail I drop the rope and he never knows, if he goes to run I can easily step on the rope.

[Jonnycat]

A head harness like the "Gentle Leader" previously suggested is a useful TRAINING TOOL. I have used it to teach dogs not to pull and lunge. After a few weeks of careful use, the dog should learn to walk on-lead politely. Then it goes in the closet. It is not used long term for regular walks and certainly not on the trail. It can be dangerous in the wrong circumstances. If misused, or in a fall, it can cause very real neck damage!!! Much the same as "whiplash". If your dog lunges and pulls then you need to improve your training technique.

I absolutely cringe when I see well-meaning people using a Halti for regular dog walking. One of these days I'm going to stop and mention something.

[Two Speed]

My two cents-- I like the dog out in front for several reasons . . . Don't think that's good advice for a dog that isn't SAR trained and/or Canine Good Citizen qualified.

Just sayin'.