View Full Version : Your Shenandoah Experience
Hello thru and section hikers;
I am curious as to what you thought of the Shenandoah section.
Being that a lot of the trail parallels the Skyline Drive, does this detract from your trail experience through this section?
I personally do not like hiking on or near roads, and I know that Skyline Drive can get pretty noisy in the summer.
But at the same time, I think there is a great advantage to hiking near roads; Grocery and other nice things close to the trail.
I recall (now it's been a very long time since I've been down there) that they have facilities (at least one) where a hiker can get a shower!
I remember walking into a store where all the backpacks were lined up outside. No one would bother anyone else's pack. That's how it was back in the late 70's anyway. I also recall that there were showers in that store, in the back? Am I remembering correctly?
I didn't do all that much hiking in the section. It was a driving trip, but I did take a few short hikes on the AT, and recall that it was very close to the road in a lot of places.
That said, there are some excellent view points along the way, and although I did not sleep on the trail, I would expect things to be very quiet (at least as far as vehicular traffic goes) at night.
What's your view?
FW
I enjoyed the Shenandoah and we've hiked it in the off season and the on season. If you like to have amenities nearby, there are sections of the Shenandoah that you hit with lots of decent food, facilities, etc. The very southern end of the Shenandoah is much quieter and much more enjoyable for me.
The disconcerting thing about the Shenandoah is, in the more travelled/populated pieces, the animals have become acclimated to people and will come right up to you (deer in particular). Some are starving because of the people food they have been fed and what its done to their digestive systems, no longer able to function for regular wild life food and foraging (according to a ranger I talked to one year). I've seen people try and approach a bear.
Otherwise, though, I have enjoyed the park very much.
It was harder than I expected (hiked it sobo...)
To be sure, having stores and campgrounds pop up so frequently adds a civilized touch to the hike - it's the exact opposite of hiking in GSMNP.
Father Dragon
05-01-2010, 07:12
I hiked the whole AT section of SNP about this time last year and I go up there at least once or twice a year for 2 or 3 nights. The terrain on the AT is not too difficult but it isn't flat like the rest of Virginia :rolleyes:. There were times where I was aware of how close to the road I was and then there were times I felt a little more away from it all. It's a good hike and a really impressive park considering how narrow it is. I enjoyed myself. If you ever hike through make sure you take some time and catch a few of the waterfalls. Whiteoak Canyon is particularly nice.
I second the observation about the wildlife. They are not afraid of people. I've had bears in camp, more bears in camp, bears on the trail, and a bear walked right up to my car window after the idiot in front of me realized I was watching them feed the bear and took off... that was all in one three day trip too.
earlyriser26
05-01-2010, 08:05
I have hiked the southern part and enjoyed it very much. in 18 days I will be hiking the northern part. The road only comes into play once in a while. Don't see or hear it most the time even if it is fairly close. And yes, Virginia is flat (unless you are not a thru hiker). NH is "flat" to a thru hiker.
the rangers are generally a friendly and helpful bunch! generally easy to make and change plans. about the worst cell phone reception i can remember, though, when i was expecting good reception. oh -- it took me an embarrassingly long time to realize that the concrete posts have little metal bands on them - not for decoration, but for directions.
bigcranky
05-01-2010, 08:39
We enjoyed the Shenandoah section. On the weekends the traffic is a little loud, but not so much on weekdays, even in summer.
The various restaurants and waysides made for some nice meals along the way.
I've hiked Shenandoah Park several times over the years. Everything form early spring, mid summer and late fall. Hot weather to one of the worst blizzards I've been out in. Each trip was pretty much a joy.
While the Skyline drive crossings get a bit old, I do not recall being bothered all that much by the traffic sounds in general. The waysides and camp stores are only open during the "Season" so, depending on when you go, re-supply can be scarce.
The trail itself was pretty tame by most standards, not to say there was no elevation changes, but the tread is well maintained and easy. I did my highest mileage three day stretch ever through the Shenandoah. Did a 26 mile, a 25 mile and a 27 mile day, all back to back. Not my normal backpacking, but I was determined to catch up to some folks who were planning some canoeing on the river. This was back in the days of 45 lb frame packs as the norm. :D
The park is an enjoyable hike. While there are some regulations that you have to pay attention to, I did not find them terribly intrusive. All of the rangers and other park employees I've met were friendly and helpful.
Go and enjoy a gem of a park.
Pedaling Fool
05-01-2010, 09:12
Hello thru and section hikers;
I am curious as to what you thought of the Shenandoah section.
Being that a lot of the trail parallels the Skyline Drive, does this detract from your trail experience through this section?
I personally do not like hiking on or near roads, and I know that Skyline Drive can get pretty noisy in the summer.
SNP is nice, but I'm glad that the rest of the AT is not like it, with respect to the commericalization. Although the Whites are worse -- with the hut system.
The road does distract and not only thru SNP, but also south where the trail crosses BRP several times.
If you don't like being near roads these two sections will drive you nuts, pardon the pun.
...But at the same time, I think there is a great advantage to hiking near roads; Grocery and other nice things close to the trail.
I recall (now it's been a very long time since I've been down there) that they have facilities (at least one) where a hiker can get a shower!
I remember walking into a store where all the backpacks were lined up outside. No one would bother anyone else's pack. That's how it was back in the late 70's anyway. I also recall that there were showers in that store, in the back? Am I remembering correctly?
There are no ma-pop type grocery stores along these two sections, because it's not a normal road, no business are in vicinity other than contracted touristy type money-makers for the park service (Convienence stores and resturants). However, there are some good breakfast meals to be had thru SNP if you time it correctly. I time it best if I go thru as a NOBO. But you won't get the same feel of walking into a ma-pop style resturant with all the backpacks hanging outside. I'm afraid those days are slipping away.
garlic08
05-01-2010, 09:13
The Park was sort of "good news/bad news" for me. I enjoyed the waysides (wild berry shakes!) and restaurants (salads!), but could have done without most of the people and the effect they were having on wildlife, as noted above. I remember fantastic scenery in the middle, but that's where all the people were. Fewer people and tamer scenery in the far south and far north ends, but absolutely excellent hiking.
I was there pretty early in the season, in mid-May, and the Loft Mt area was still closed, but the Lewis Mt area had just opened and I used the camp store as a resupply. So it wasn't very crowded yet.
I saw a record number of bears in one day, for me--nine. I saw a sow with three cubs, thinking I'd never see that again, then a couple hours later I saw another sow with three cubs, then a solo sighting. I remember thinking they must have been on the payroll of the USDA, how tame they were. I could imagine the tamest animals being trained to loll around people, then clocking out at the end of the day.
fiddlehead
05-01-2010, 09:17
All NP's have too many rules for me.
I get in, and I get out.
I guess I have this attitude partly because of my first trip to Shen NP in '77 when you had to hide your tent out of sight of any possible ranger's eyes. They all knew where the choices were near the water sources and gave us a ticket.
It was a game I never got used to and didn't want to.
I prefer my hiking with less rules and just put up with these places cause I'm putting a thru-hike together.
My best hike through the Smokies was in Jan. when I knew there were no rangers around.
Pedaling Fool
05-01-2010, 09:23
All NP's have too many rules for me.
I get in, and I get out.
I guess I have this attitude partly because of my first trip to Shen NP in '77 when you had to hide your tent out of sight of any possible ranger's eyes. They all knew where the choices were near the water sources and gave us a ticket.
It was a game I never got used to and didn't want to.
I prefer my hiking with less rules and just put up with these places cause I'm putting a thru-hike together.
My best hike through the Smokies was in Jan. when I knew there were no rangers around.
That would suck! I've never seen a ranger on the trail (albeit I wasn't on the trail in the 70's). Maybe we don't see them anymore, because their funding was drastically cut (so I hear), so maybe that isn't a bad thing:sun
fiddlehead
05-01-2010, 09:43
Back then, the beautiful shelters were to be kept that way.
The rules were: No Camping near the shelters!
Of course the water sources were near the shelters so, being a newbie, I thought we had to camp near water. Well the rangers would come around dark and I remember one standing on top of the fireplace and looking around in a 360. "what color is your tent?" he said. "Orange" I replied. "I can see it, move it!" was his final answer.
Then, after talking to him about where we could legally put it, he asked where we were planning on camping the next night. When we told him, he said that there were no legal spots in that area and he, or someone else would most likely be there to check and give us a ticket (he only gave us a warning this night) so, we ended up doing a 25+ mile day just to get out of that park.
I have never felt good about Shenandoah NP since!
Had the same feelings about Rocky Mt NP.
i think the oddest thing about the snp is that people can park really close to just about every shelter -- so you may walk for a while without seeing anyone, but when you get to a shelter you can run into a hoard of 1/4 mile hikers. not that there's anything wrong with 1/4 mile hikers, just a strange mix... almost like reaching the top of Mt washington.
Tipi Walter
05-01-2010, 10:37
I did it twice, once in '84 and again in '87. The '87 trip was in early March and the road was "closed", at least there wasn't any traffic and all the stores were closed. Winter would be the only time I'd backpack it now as I hate to hear the screaming wannabe Isle of Man motorcycle racers. They've pretty much taken over most of the roads around the mountains in the Southeast(during the summer).
The first time in '84 I got up to Front Royal and hitched to a neat "preserve" where I saw zebras and giraffes, etc, behind a chain link fence and later learned it was a housing area for the DC zoo. I ended up camping close by in a 600 acre "valley of retreat"(close to a yoga center) for over a week and hung out with box turtles and ate violets and wild mustard greens. The summer of '84.
In '87 I went in with a friend named Donna and we hauled out a North Face VE24 tent which got crushed by a deadfall at night during a windstorm at Marys Rock. The tent got a broke pole and a ripped fly. We later hitched into Luray for supplies and got some good rides. Early March is the best time to backpack the Shenandoah!
We ended up hitching into DC for god's know what reason(ever try to hitch the beltway?)and then swung down with our thumbs past Charlottesville and ended up at Swami Satchitananda's Ashram in Yogaville, Virginia, where we stayed for many days camping. I got caught by one of the pesky "disciples" stealth camping in a little hollow near the "golden temple". What fun.
I have one of those emotional connections to SNP that people will develop from happy memories of childhood. I first started going there in 1967 when my family piled into the wood-paneled station wagon pulling a pop-up trailer. It's the first NP I visited, it's where I first heard about the AT, it's where I first backpacked solo back in 1979. I love the place, though I will say that the AT is not the best trail in the park. I've hiked the AT as a section hike through the park several times, but most of my trips to SNP involve hiking other trails. I love Whiteoak Canyon in the spring when the water is really flowing. I love the Rip-Rap/Wildcat Ridge/AT loop in the southern district. Watching sunrises from Bearfence Mtn always thrills me.
SNP is a long, narrow park. The Skyline Drive is the main attraction in the park, and you cross it often when hiking the AT. I've had my photo taken from overlooks when the car tourists see me, as if I'm part of the wildlife. "Look, honey! It's a bear/deer/backpacker. Get a picture!" I'm a pretty social person, so I like having the people around, for the most part. I generally will stand there and talk to them about other trails and hopefully share info with them that will help them to enjoy "my" park. I also enjoy going to SNP and staying in PATC cabins, using the campgrounds as basecamps, and once a year, the hubby and I stay at Big Meadows Lodge and enjoy the park from a "civilized" perspective. It's a great place that can be seen and enjoyed in many ways.
Regarding rules for camping, there are places that are restricted, such as near picnic grounds and the water tower at Skyland. But for the most part, SNP is a park where you can drop your tent or hang your hammock pretty much anywhere. It's not as restrictive as it was years ago. When you get your backcountry permit, read the rules carefully. There are no backcountry campfires, and you are encouraged to look for established campsites. SNP is one of the few national parks where you can just walk out and camp where you'd like.
The character of the AT changes from place to place. So the AT experience is different in SNP, as it differs from GSMNP, the Whites, etc. Some like SNP, some don't. I happen to love it there.
i think the oddest thing about the snp is that people can park really close to just about every shelter -- so you may walk for a while without seeing anyone, but when you get to a shelter you can run into a hoard of 1/4 mile hikers. not that there's anything wrong with 1/4 mile hikers, just a strange mix... almost like reaching the top of Mt washington.
Hey, Lazarus! Good to see you here! Thanks for the heads up on the lightning at Pass Mtn! It was good that we moved inside the shelter. Sorry we missed you when you left. Everyone was looking for you in the a.m. and remarked that you were one quiet and considerate fellow. Hope you had a good trip home.
"Limo" Lori
Thanks guys; Great stories!
I was kind of expecting most of you to say that it wasn't the most enjoyable part of the trail, on account of the people and automobiles/motorcycles.
I think I could live with the cars, but not motorcycles.
I am disturbed to hear about the "humanization" of the wildlife. Unfortunately, unless strict laws are written and enforced, this is going to continue. But in Yellowstone, I have read that rangers do enforce the laws, so the problems are apparently less serious than they were some years ago.
When I was in SNP, it was the late 70's and I was around 21 years old. I was driving, but parked in several places and hiked on the AT for a couple hours.
I didn't mind all the people and cars back then, but now, I'm much older, and a lot less tolerant.
So the issue with placement of tents; why don't the rangers want to be able to see your tent? Is it that they think it will detract from another park user's experience?
If that's the case, then why not just close the park to people!
If I had it my way, the road would be permanently closed, and the park returned to the wild, and to the hikers.
I think that if I go down there again, it will be either late fall or early spring, when the tourists are still hibernating in front of their televisions.
That said, I guess I'll have to pack a lot more food than I would if I did the hike during "season".
FW
For me it was flat, well fed, and fun. I was hiking around a great group then, we often stopped to feed, the trial was comparatively easy, and we met some really interesting non-hikers.
Pedaling Fool
05-01-2010, 11:58
Thanks guys; Great stories!
I was kind of expecting most of you to say that it wasn't the most enjoyable part of the trail, on account of the people and automobiles/motorcycles.
I think I could live with the cars, but not motorcycles.
Actually you may find you'll have a change of heart WRT motorcycles. There are a lot of MCs through SNP, but they're not that loud, MCs are pretty quiet nowadays. I know cars are also quieter, but the law of physics works against the tecnological advances. Cars push more air than MCs, but more importantly and aggrivating is the noise the tires make. Car tires are very loud, much louder than MCs. I personally would rather there be more MCs than cars.
So the issue with placement of tents; why don't the rangers want to be able to see your tent? Is it that they think it will detract from another park user's experience?
I don't think that's the case anymore. I've been through the park ~4 times and have never seen a ranger on the trail. The only run-in I had with a ranger was when I was in a parking lot, he asked to see my backcountry permit. He seemed disappointed I had one:D, but he left me alone after that.
Slo-go'en
05-01-2010, 12:27
10 bucks for a burger and fries! You got to be kidding me! Oh well, give me two.
On my last trip through SNP, I bought a couple of $3.00 granola bars at the Big Meadows store. Went over to a near-by picnic table and put them down. Then saw some hikers I knew, so went over to say hi. Looked back at the picnic table to see a big crow pick up one of the bars and fly off with it!
RE: shelters near the road. On my first trip through SNP in the late 80's, I was at one of these. About dark a guy dressed in a buisness suit shows up with a briefcase in one hand and a sleeping bag under the other arm.
double d
05-01-2010, 12:49
Are the AT Shelters in SNP first come, first serve or do they have some of the regulations that are found in the GSMNP?
For thru-hikers coming into Shenendoah National Park that often means hiking some 120 or so flatter trail bigger mile days. Shame! Some lesser used trails adjacent or very near the AT lead to some very worthy viewpoints, waterfalls, and hiking.
I've never been to a National Park where there wasn't something I enjoyed. Heck, it's a National Park. That means someone thought it was worthy to conserve. That alone should tell you something. There are always places in every National Park I've hiked where you can go to avoid the bigger crowds or noise. Or, simply go at a time of yr when it's less crowded.
So the issue with placement of tents; why don't the rangers want to be able to see your tent? Is it that they think it will detract from another park user's experience?
If that's the case, then why not just close the park to people!
If I had it my way, the road would be permanently closed, and the park returned to the wild, and to the hikers.
FW
Not the case anymore. I picked up my backcountry permit on 04/21 about 2 weeks ago, and the ranger simply told me to try to find established campsites, if possible, and if I had to camp somewhere that had not been used as a site before, "fluff" it back up when I left. She did emphasize no backcountry fires. The only time I've seen rangers on the trail is where the trail passes through overlooks or at road crossings, or rangers conducting programs near Milam Gap and also at Stonyman Mtn. It's more likely that you'll see an ATC Ridge runner, I think. I welcome discussions with them, as they are full of great info.
As far as the animals go, I'm sure they are used to seeing people near the roads and trails. But the only animals that have walked up close to me have been the deer near the waysides and shelters. Never had a bear come near me. I've only seen them from a distance or running from me because they heard/saw me first. I've seen coyotes, raccoon, peregrines, and even one bobcat in SNP. None have wanted to come near me, but they did stop and stare at me briefly. It was a different story back in the 1960s and 1970s, as it was in all of the Nat Parks. In those days, the family campground amenities included a galvanized trashcan at each campsite which was chained to a tree. Not very critter-proof! It's definitely against the law to feed the animals, and I've seen rangers enforce that one.
Incidentally, on 04/27, the last day of our hike, as my group was wandering around Big Meadows and Dark Hollow Falls waiting for our ride home, we talked to a ranger who was closing the trail between the Big Meadows campground and Dark Hollow Falls trailhead. There is a mother bear with cubs in the area, and she's been very protective recently. The trail was closed with temporary fencing and signs were posted. The rangers take animal and human protection very seriously.
GoldenBear
05-01-2010, 14:29
Shenandoah is a Park where you can have as much -- or as little -- natural wildness as you like. There's over 30K hectares of designated wilderness, lodges with chef-cooked food and live entertainment, and everything in between. For some people -- like myself -- this ability to choose your level of wildness is the main attraction of SNP.
Since the AT and Skyline Drive (SD) parallel each other, with both following the ridge line for the length of the park (that was the intention for BOTH paths), it is impossible not to be aware that SD is there. If nothing else, you have to cross it a few times. And there's no way to avoid the pavement of parking spots that you'll pass by. You'll definitely hear cars, and almost definitely come across day hikers and family hikers. To me, this diversity is a treasure of opportunity for interaction -- others would prefer more isolation.
Facilities of just about every kind exist along SD, and are thus easily reached from the AT. This includes showers and a laundry at Big Meadows, camp stores at Big Meadows and Elkwallow, and restaurants at the latter two and at Skyline. Again, I like these supply points, others would prefer more isolation.
As with almost all national parks, tension exists between the mandates that the NPS "conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life" and "leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations," but also "provide for the enjoyment of the same." This is particularly true for a Park that was specifically created, and thousands of hectares of private land taken through eminent domain, for the enjoyment of Easterners. We (one of the future generations) can have enjoyment either at a lodge or in a wilderness -- but neither enjoyment will be "unimpaired" unless certain activities are permitted only in certain, specific areas. Nightly music entertainment is only at the lodges, camping is only where doing so will leave the area "unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations." This means -
-- "back-country" camping is not permitted close to paved roads or park facilities.
-- six areas permit no camping at all.
-- campsites may not be set up where they would impair the enjoyment of others.
-- periodically, areas that have been over-used are closed to camping to permit restoration of the land.
www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/campbc_regs.htm
It would be ideal if such rules did not exist. But decades of management by the NPS have found that no camping rules results in (surprise!) severe deterioration of the land. For a place with the visitation levels of SNP, rules are a must.
Backcountry camping permits are required for camping outside designated campgrounds, but are free and easy to obtain.
www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/campbc_permit.htm
SNP uses concrete markers at trail heads and intersections to mark directions and distances. Info is on the metal bands at the top of the markers. This system permits relatively easy change in signage but with almost no chance for theft.
At least one sign -- at the trail head for Little Stony Man Viewpoint -- has outdated info on the location of the AT. This one shows the Pasamaquoddy Trail as part of the AT. Get the latest info and follow the blazes, not the posted maps!
As you might guess, SNP has a special place in my heart. In my eight trips there over the last nine years, I've day-hiked most of the overlook trails, the waterfall trails, and 120 km of the AT. Not a place of those who want TRUE wilderness -- civilization is close enough to hear and get to in a hurry -- but it is a place to get as much into wilderness as you want.
johnnybgood
05-01-2010, 14:55
I've car camped and hiked in Shenandoah since the early 70's and have always found the experience enjoyable.
Like already mentioned, I find the blue blazes more interesting and if you're looking for solitude take a trail in the northern section away from the more visited central district.
If you want to see waterfalls -- and possibly snakes -- then hike WhiteOak Canyon.
I must also mention that next weekend , May 8-9 is wildflower weekend in the park.
Go to the park website at : www.nps.gov/shen/ (http://www.nps.gov/shen/)
10 bucks for a burger and fries! You got to be kidding me! Oh well, give me two.
On my last trip through SNP, I bought a couple of $3.00 granola bars at the Big Meadows store. Went over to a near-by picnic table and put them down. Then saw some hikers I knew, so went over to say hi. Looked back at the picnic table to see a big crow pick up one of the bars and fly off with it!
RE: shelters near the road. On my first trip through SNP in the late 80's, I was at one of these. About dark a guy dressed in a buisness suit shows up with a briefcase in one hand and a sleeping bag under the other arm.
His wife probably kicked him out!:banana
Actually you may find you'll have a change of heart WRT motorcycles. There are a lot of MCs through SNP, but they're not that loud, MCs are pretty quiet nowadays. I know cars are also quieter, but the law of physics works against the tecnological advances. Cars push more air than MCs, but more importantly and aggrivating is the noise the tires make. Car tires are very loud, much louder than MCs. I personally would rather there be more MCs than cars.
That's true. It's when I'm trying to fall asleep at home in the suburbs of NJ that I hear the loud ones. Some guys (and gals) just like to open it up once in a while, and probably feel more free to do so in town than in a NP.
Trucks are another story, but they're not allowed on SD, are they?
While staying at Gifford Woods, Killington VT, all I heard all night was big rigs on SR 100.
FW
My only experience with Shenandoah was in May in inclement weather, I believe in 2008. I was doing a two week section hike from harpers ferry south on the AT, and up to the point I entered SNP, it was wonderful, no rain, and I was hiking when all the NOBO thru-hikers were coming through.
On the ascent into SNP, it started to rain. By the second day, it still hadn't let up. The third day, a freezing rain/snow front hit the trail, making me hole up at a lodge 30 miles into the park, I forget the name. The lodge was fairly ungracious to me and the other hikers waiting out the weather, and was not very willing to go out of their way to help anyone.
I did manage to cab out of the situation, with a bad knee and wrecked blistered feet from the moisture.
This aside, its a very beautiful park with a lot of amenities that you might not find as frequently on other sections of the trail. The skyline drive is a big detractor for me, but I can understand the reason for it, and their desire to draw a more family-oriented crowd.
Take it for what it is, a tourist-friendly park with a lot of history.
Not a big fan. Love the bears. The waysides and restaurants are great, too. But the trail is slanted from being worn, which got tough on my ankles after a while. It is nowhere as near as "easy" as it is made out to be. I don't mind the traffic or the people. Some great people offering great food.
In the middle of thruhike, it seems like a big distraction. As if, when you get out of SNP, you might feel like "now that's over with, i can get back to thru-hiking".
Pedaling Fool
05-01-2010, 17:42
Are the AT Shelters in SNP first come, first serve or do they have some of the regulations that are found in the GSMNP?
No, the shelters are first come first served, just like the rest of the AT. The only real comparison between SNP & GSMNP is the self-registration for a backcountry permit, which is not really a big deal, just don't get caught w/o one.
Pedaling Fool
05-01-2010, 17:48
That's true. It's when I'm trying to fall asleep at home in the suburbs of NJ that I hear the loud ones. Some guys (and gals) just like to open it up once in a while, and probably feel more free to do so in town than in a NP.
Trucks are another story, but they're not allowed on SD, are they?
While staying at Gifford Woods, Killington VT, all I heard all night was big rigs on SR 100.
FW
Yes, the crotch-rockets, they can suck, but on skyline they can't rev-up to the speeds like they do in the cities, so not too bad. A lot of the cycles are the touring type, like BMWs...those bikes are very quiet. And then you got the harley types, which I think make a really cool rumbling sound, but the car tire sound irritates the hell out of me. Probably just me with a conditioned response from my years on a bicycle.
Blissful
05-01-2010, 17:53
SNP is much better in late Oct or April. Any other time and it is just not the same experience.
One very convenient thing about having the SD parallel the trail is that getting a ride back to your car is easy as cake. Just scope out a likely ride at a wayside or picnic area, strike up a conversation, tell them some tails from the trail, then let them know you are in need of a ride. Just make sure they are heading your way before spending too much time. :D
double d
05-02-2010, 02:14
No, the shelters are first come first served, just like the rest of the AT. The only real comparison between SNP & GSMNP is the self-registration for a backcountry permit, which is not really a big deal, just don't get caught w/o one.
Thanks John for answering my question, I plan on hiking that part of the AT next year, so thanks again for the information.
MedicineMan
05-02-2010, 05:05
I broke up SNP in 3 trips...the one in the dead of winter was the best. Another had the blessing of trail magic from HOI (a cold beer delivered to the shelter) that I'll never forget.
Blissful
05-02-2010, 08:35
Also you are not required to stay at the huts (shelters) in SNP if you are sectioning like you are at GSMNP
Blissful
05-02-2010, 08:38
On my last trip through SNP, I bought a couple of $3.00 granola bars at the Big Meadows store. Went over to a near-by picnic table and put them down. Then saw some hikers I knew, so went over to say hi. Looked back at the picnic table to see a big crow pick up one of the bars and fly off with it!
RE: shelters near the road. On my first trip through SNP in the late 80's, I was at one of these. About dark a guy dressed in a buisness suit shows up with a briefcase in one hand and a sleeping bag under the other arm.
This is pretty funny :D
Yes, the crotch-rockets, they can suck, but on skyline they can't rev-up to the speeds like they do in the cities, so not too bad. A lot of the cycles are the touring type, like BMWs...those bikes are very quiet. And then you got the harley types, which I think make a really cool rumbling sound, but the car tire sound irritates the hell out of me. Probably just me with a conditioned response from my years on a bicycle.
Agree completely! The low rumbling of the Harleys is kind of relaxing. I love trains, and find the low rumbling of the big diesels coming up grade kind of like a meditation rhythm.
But I think I would prefer to hike SNP during off-season anyway. People sometimes irritate me:(
Maybe I should do GSMNP instead. Much, much more difficult, but more a true trail experience.
Or maybe do both. Then I get to decide which I find more to my enjoyment:)
FW
stranger
05-02-2010, 20:24
I think Shenandoah is very overrated in terms of beauty and somewhat underrated in terms of difficulty.
The best thing about it for me is the access to milkshakes and burgers.
Didn't love it. Some of the easiest hiking I have experienced from Southern VA to Central VT. Roads and tourists are not ideal in my view.
johnnybgood
05-02-2010, 21:30
Didn't love it. Some of the easiest hiking I have experienced from Southern VA to Central VT. Roads and tourists are not ideal in my view.
You must then absolutely hate the Smokies then.
Saw my first AT black bears in SNP, a mom and three cubs. The ranger said it was too early for bears to be out, that was the first week in April.
Just Plain Jim
05-02-2010, 21:48
My buddy and I hiked the SNP,from the south to Harpers Ferry in 2006.
It took us 12 days with 8 of those in the SNP. I talked him into carrying only 5 days food supply and planned to stop at the waysides when possible. It worked out perfectly and we still had some food left when we exited the park. we also had a drop box just north of the park with enough food to cover the remaining 4 days. The park was easy [we were 67] and we had a couple of 20 milers. After that it got tough. The day we did the roller-coaster it was mean but we still did 18 miles that day.
MedicineMan
05-02-2010, 22:32
well the beauty of SNP is unfortunately not on the AT, the AT makes a wonderful corridor to trails that lead to the real gems of this park....the thru-hiker and section hiker that sticks solely to the AT misses this park.
TheCheek
05-02-2010, 23:04
The one thing that stands out to me about SNP is the tameness of the wildlife. Deer walk right up to you, bear hardly run away too. Nice little strip of green though.
MedicineMan
05-02-2010, 23:14
this thread reminds me of the AT's displacement from the BRP...I still think the AT was shorted in views...yes McAfee's is awesome and the hike around the caldera is nice but overall the BRP got the lion's share.
Pedaling Fool
05-03-2010, 06:57
The one thing that stands out to me about SNP is the tameness of the wildlife. Deer walk right up to you, bear hardly run away too. Nice little strip of green though.
That's exactly why you should never feed hikers:D
Well, considering that my only experience in SNP was basically a car trip, when I was very young (I'm still very young :)), I don't think my views are of much value. My OP was one of curiosity, and I can see that it has sparked a lot of fond, and some not so fond memories.
I am hoping to do a TH starting next Feb, so I will have my own experiences to relate with all the rest of you.
It just ain't the same thing reading about the experiences of others, and doin' it yourself.
That's not to say that I don't thoroughly enjoy reading your experiences; but I think my time has come :D
FW
I have section hiked about 700 miles of the trail, and last fall my friend and I spent a week traveling through SNP. We stopped at two waysides and a restaurant. Most of the concessional employees were rude, even yelling at us as we came through the door to leave our packs out on the sidewalk. The park and concession area was crowded, and we objected to having our packs out of sight. We watched large people come in and motorcycle riders with large jackets and helmets, mothers with babies and big diaper bags, but our 25 pound packs were definitely an issue for these folks. We objected, and the clerk insisted that no one had ever had a pack taken (with the implication that the pack had little value).
This experience, along with the traffic noise and road crossings, affected the overall trip.
brian039
05-11-2011, 22:13
I have section hiked about 700 miles of the trail, and last fall my friend and I spent a week traveling through SNP. We stopped at two waysides and a restaurant. Most of the concessional employees were rude, even yelling at us as we came through the door to leave our packs out on the sidewalk. The park and concession area was crowded, and we objected to having our packs out of sight. We watched large people come in and motorcycle riders with large jackets and helmets, mothers with babies and big diaper bags, but our 25 pound packs were definitely an issue for these folks. We objected, and the clerk insisted that no one had ever had a pack taken (with the implication that the pack had little value).
This experience, along with the traffic noise and road crossings, affected the overall trip.
I don't think it is the size of the pack that is the issue, in their defense packs do smell up the place. I never took my pack inside anywhere just out of courtesy, nobody is going to steal your pack.
SassyWindsor
05-11-2011, 22:54
When I came through Shenandoah NP it was an unforgettable time. The rains started the day I entered the park and didn't quit until the day I exited. Some of which was the worse and longest I've every been in. I also encountered my first coin operated shower at Big Meadows camp ground. During this part of my thru I was convinced my tent would never leak if it hadn't leaked in all this rainy weather.
SNP was my least favorite section of the AT
WingedMonkey
05-13-2011, 16:33
well the beauty of SNP is unfortunately not on the AT, the AT makes a wonderful corridor to trails that lead to the real gems of this park....the thru-hiker and section hiker that sticks solely to the AT misses this park.
I went back years after my first thru, hiked the other trials to the waterfalls and other sites. Beautiful park and uncrowded of the AT.
WingedMonkey
05-13-2011, 16:34
well the beauty of SNP is unfortunately not on the AT, the AT makes a wonderful corridor to trails that lead to the real gems of this park....the thru-hiker and section hiker that sticks solely to the AT misses this park.
I went back years after my first thru, hiked the other trials to the waterfalls and other sites. Beautiful park and uncrowded off the AT.