PDA

View Full Version : AT in Shenandoah NP



chiefiepoo
05-25-2010, 14:36
Hello all,
I'm planning a trip from Rockfish Gap north to Front Royal starting 6/10. It will be a leisurely 10 day stroll with a 0 day at Big Meadows in the middle. Solo traveler for now, at least. I have the AT section maps and 2010 guide but would be greatful for any first hand input. As I'm coming up from FL, I fly into CHO and have a shuttle, JAUNT, that will take me from town up the mountain along Rockfish gap. My exit plan is Valley shuttle from Front Royal back to DC for $20., albeit at oh dark thirty on my last day. Hope to hear from those with experience on these sections.

bigcranky
05-25-2010, 14:54
The Park is a nice hike, and early June is usually good weather and not too crowded yet. A zero at Big Meadows is great -- make sure you hike the loop trail there.

I would stop at every wayside for a meal and a blackberry milkshake. I'd also hit every side trail that goes to a view -- I was surprised at how many hikers skipped those. We usually took a long mid-day break, and it was cool to have a quiet spot with a great view. The trail passes a lot of picnic areas which have fresh water and trash cans -- take advantage when you can.

The camp stores didn't have a lot of good long-term resupply options, but they did have Snickers bars, Oreos, and ice cream. Always a nice treat.

When we hiked that section in 2005 in mid-June it was the middle of an awful heat wave, but normal temps are cooler. Oh, and I picked up Lyme disease that year, most likely from the park, so I don't go out anymore in the summer without treating my clothes with permethrin.

Have a great hike.

Blissful
05-25-2010, 15:44
I have done this both NOBO and SOBO. Not much in water until you get to Loft Mtn. Southern section is dry, so plan accordingly. Will be up there Thurs so can check on the spring at Blackrock (which people say is a trickle) Probably will be pretty warm, but you're used to that. Prepare for ticks - coat your clothes with pyrethrin beforehand and check yourselves daily. I think going NOBO is easier, IMO. Waysides are pricey for resupply.
Will be plenty of thru hikers then, be sure to take a tent. There are tentsites at shelters.

Pootz
05-25-2010, 16:01
There will be thru hikers then but you should not have a problem with shelter space. It is always a good idea to carry a tent just in case. I have hiked this section twice. I agree that water can be scarce, but you should not have trouble getting waters at shelters. Very nice trail, with lots of side trails.

Enjoy your hike

FritztheCat
05-25-2010, 16:09
Did Rockfish Gap to Loft Mountain a few weeks ago. Fantastic section of the SNP! Calf Moutain Shelter had a spring that was running pretty good. From there the next one is Black Rock Hut (if you stay on the AT) and the spring there was a trickle but I could fill up. Loft Mountain Campground should be opening this weekend I believe so you'll run into a lot of campers but there are water sources.

The only problem I had was the bugs. Not the biting kind, just irritating because they always hit my eyes. Why do they always go for the eyes? Anyway, when I was there it was right after a few solid days of rain and the three days I spent were the first three sunny days in a while, probably why the bugs were out so bad.

I'd go again in a heartbeat! Enjoy your hike!

emerald
05-25-2010, 16:12
Take time to enjoy SNP's mountain laurel (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showpost.php?p=994283&postcount=2) which might be past peak bloom, but there should still be blossoms to be seen.

emerald
05-25-2010, 16:19
SNP is one of many places where you can expect to see Virginia A.T. birds (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61197). If you see a Scarlet Tanger or any others, the place to post your observations is WhiteBlaze A.T. bird list 2010 (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61049).

burger
05-25-2010, 16:27
SNP is one of many places where you can expect to see Virginia A.T. birds (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61197). If you see a Scarlet Tanger or any others, the place to post your observations is A.T. birds 2010.
I'll second that. I saw (well, heard mostly) more cerulean warblers on the AT section through SNP than I've seen anywhere else.

One other piece of advice for the OP: don't try to camp at any picnic areas or other off-limits spots. We got caught and had a stressful run-in with the park rangers (who thankfully let us stay but threatened to kick us out of the park if we tried it again).

chiefiepoo
05-25-2010, 16:46
Thanks for the tic alert. I have been knocking around FL for over 30 years. I could count one one hand the # of tics I've attracted. OTH, one afternoon picking roadside berries in VA I came back infested. Maybe two 0 days at Big Meadows as I love the Rose River Loop and might take a day just for that and the New Deal turkey dinner at the lodge. On the waay out now to but premetherin

chiefiepoo
05-25-2010, 16:54
Take time to enjoy SNP's mountain laurel (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showpost.php?p=994283&postcount=2) which might be past peak bloom, but there should still be blossoms to be seen.
I'm hoping that I won't entirely miss the bloom of Laurel / Rhododendren, whatever the correct name is. I was up on Old Rag a few years ago in mid June and with the higher altitude, the bloom was at peak with the trail being a path through a tunnel of flowers. Incredible sight. One reason for the slow pace is to be able to visit look outs, walk in nature and learn about what is living around me in SNP. Maybe a dip in the Rose river pools, too. Thanks for the encouragement.

JJJ
05-25-2010, 17:41
SNP is one of many places where you can expect to see Virginia A.T. birds (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61197). If you see a Scarlet Tanger or any others, the place to post your observations is WhiteBlaze A.T. bird list 2010 (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61049).

It may have been the last S. Tanager I saw, 6/24/1995 at the shelter just south of Swift Run Gap in SNP. A major rain system was moving in and they like to sing in the rain. Exquisite little bird.

I biked the Skyline last year. Rode by a turkey hen with a brood under her wing literally inches from the asphalt.

A beautiful and magical part of the world.
Have fun.

Blissful
05-25-2010, 17:48
Mt Laurel out here in the lowlands. Should be good up there then.

Rain Man
05-25-2010, 18:36
I have the AT section maps and 2010 guide but would be greatful for any first hand input.

Daughter and I did it as a 7-day hike about 3 years ago. Very enjoyable.

A couple of observations. "Wayside" means something very different everywhere the word is used, so beware. Also, our guide said Panorama Wayside was open, but in fact it was closed and had been for a few years. No idea if it has re-opened (but don't think so), so don't count in it, as we did and were sadly mis-led.

Once I sat by Skyline Drive waiting on a ride, and looked down to see ticks crawling toward me. YIKES. Another day we were glad to have head nets, due to all the little flying critters.

When we hiked through, the "Byrd's Nests" were for day-use only. Now I understand one or more have been refurb to be over-night shelters.

One more thing... we saw bears each and every day.

Enjoy!

Rain:sunMan

.

chiefiepoo
05-25-2010, 19:32
Probably will be pretty warm, but you're used to that. Prepare for ticks - coat your clothes with pyrethrin beforehand and check yourselves daily.

I'm happy to get your insight for this section and the environmental hazards, Blissful. Warm seems to follow me. From Philmont in NM to Glacier in MT, always walking in the heat. Hope I'm pleasantly surprised. In '08, at Glacier NP, we were walking through snow fields in the high passes in 90*+ weather. Taking my Big Agness seed house 2 tent. A luxury at 28 sf.

Lellers
05-25-2010, 20:25
Info on Panorama and waysides.

It's true. Panorama is no more and will never return. If you have an older map or guide which still lists it, make a note that there's no food at Thornton Gap. There is only a new structure with bathrooms. You can get water and ditch your trash in the dumpsters, though.

There are three waysides... Loft Mtn, Big Meadows, and Elkwallow. Loft Mtn and Big Meadows are both about a mile off the AT (There's a little blue-blazed access from the AT to Loft Mtn wayside just north of the campground, which will save you the walk up and down the road from the campground.) Loft Mtn has a campground store, and you can resupply there. There is also food service at the Wayside on Skyline Drive. Burgers, fries, shakes, etc., ordered at the counter and eaten at the indoor or outdoor tables. Big Meadows has a smaller campstore and smaller food service area. Same menu, though. Also, the main visitors center is there. You can also get showers near the trail in the campground ($2.00 for several minutes, need quarters but there is a change machine.) Laundry available, as well. (Forgot to mention, laundry and showers available at Loft Mtn, too.) The Big Meadows lodge has a great dining room. Entertainment and some food in the Taproom at Big Meadows, as well. Nice place to spend a zero evening. You pay Aramark prices, of course, for all the food service in the park.

Also, in late April, part of the loop trail around Big Meadows was closed due to a mother bear and her cubs denned along the trail closer to the Dark Hollow Falls trail.

Further north of Big Meadows, the trail passes through Skyland Resort. If you are up for the Aramark prices, you can also eat in their dining room or Taproom. Menu is basically the same as Big Meadows.

The next wayside is a couple of days away if you are doing 10-mile days. That's Elkwallow. It's the smallest of them all. Counter food service, shakes, burgers, etc. No indoor seating but picnic tables outside. Very limited resupply there, but you can usually find enough Mountain House food to get you out of the park. The focus at Elkwallow is more souvenirs and snacks for the car tourists.

Oh, yeah, if you have an older guide, it may not note that Byrd's Nest #3 shelter, just south of Mary's Rock/Thornton Gap is now open for overnight stays. Nice shelter with a fireplace inside, new privy, lots of campsites. I don't remember if there was water available there.

Enjoy your hike! And do take the time to see some of the views.

Lone Wolf
05-25-2010, 20:29
Hello all,
I'm planning a trip from Rockfish Gap north to Front Royal starting 6/10. It will be a leisurely 10 day stroll with a 0 day at Big Meadows in the middle. Solo traveler for now, at least. I have the AT section maps and 2010 guide but would be greatful for any first hand input. As I'm coming up from FL, I fly into CHO and have a shuttle, JAUNT, that will take me from town up the mountain along Rockfish gap. My exit plan is Valley shuttle from Front Royal back to DC for $20., albeit at oh dark thirty on my last day. Hope to hear from those with experience on these sections.

easy walkin', lots of restaurants and snack bars. you'll see deer and bear

emerald
05-25-2010, 22:00
I'm hoping that I won't entirely miss the bloom of Laurel / Rhododendren, whatever the correct name is.

The genus Rhododendron refers to a particular group of plants belonging to the same family as mountain laurel. Evergreen rhododendrons found in SNP are Rhododendron maximum, great laurel (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showpost.php?p=975535&postcount=2). The more common deciduous rhododendrons bloom before mountain laurel and are known to most people as azaleas (http://www.tjhsst.edu/~dhyatt/azaleas/).

Laurel is often used to refer to evergreen understory shrubs regardless of their species.

Blissful
05-25-2010, 22:58
Info on Panorama and waysides.



There are three waysides... Loft Mtn, Big Meadows, and Elkwallow. Loft Mtn and Big Meadows are both about a mile off the AT (There's a little blue-blazed access from the AT to Loft Mtn wayside just north of the campground, which will save you the walk up and down the road from the campground.) Loft Mtn has a campground store, and you can resupply there.

Lewis Mtn has a campstore also with a blue blaze trail to it.

jlb2012
05-26-2010, 12:37
Lewis Mtn has a campstore also with a blue blaze trail to it.

showers also available at Lewis Mtn

other notes

water is available at Dundo picnic area between Loft Mtn. and Blackrock Hut

Chaos_Being
05-26-2010, 15:43
Mt Laurel out here in the lowlands. Should be good up there then.

I've been wondering when would be a good time to see the laurel...I may have to do a couple of mountain hikes soon to see it.

It's a beautiful park. I was in the southern section about a month ago, and just about had the trails to myself. Definitely expect to see deer, which have no fear of people (I practically walked into one becuase I was paying more attention to the conversation with my friend than my surroundings,) and bear (I saw my first one on the same hike.) The food at the waysides is indeed somewhat pricey, but not too bad. If you buy food at one, get some blackberry ice cream :)

I'm going to be back in September to do a "Lodge to Lodge" hike through the central section, as a bit of an introduction to multi-day hikes. I want to do the entire park sometime after that.

Lellers
05-26-2010, 16:13
Lewis Mtn has a campstore also with a blue blaze trail to it.

Can't believe I forgot Lewis Mtn! That was the very first place I stayed in SNP way back in the 1960s when my parents brought the family there in the station wagon and pop-up camper! I must be getting old if I'm forgetting Lewis Mtn.

Indeed, there is a campstore. And when you're passing by the campground on the AT, the flushies are nearly right next to the trail! You can even rent towels there for showers.

ShoelessWanderer
05-26-2010, 16:22
Did Rockfish Gap to Loft Mountain a few weeks ago. Fantastic section of the SNP! Calf Moutain Shelter had a spring that was running pretty good. From there the next one is Black Rock Hut (if you stay on the AT) and the spring there was a trickle but I could fill up. Loft Mountain Campground should be opening this weekend I believe so you'll run into a lot of campers but there are water sources.

The only problem I had was the bugs. Not the biting kind, just irritating because they always hit my eyes. Why do they always go for the eyes? Anyway, when I was there it was right after a few solid days of rain and the three days I spent were the first three sunny days in a while, probably why the bugs were out so bad.

I'd go again in a heartbeat! Enjoy your hike!

That's so ironic...I did the exact same section a few weeks ago ;)

He's right the bugs were not fun! Definatly bring a bug net.

Water: We ended up blueblazing Wildcat Run to Rip Rap trail for water, it is very sparse through the southern section. Blackrock Hut the spring was barely trickling...wouldn't imagine it'd be much good in a few weeks. Then we ended up filling up at Dundo Campground (which you can only camp at by advance reservation only, still can't figure out how to make reservations there...very frustrating). Loft Mt. was a very cool campsite, granted won't be as awesome after this weekend once it actually opens and all the carcampers/RVers are there.

Blissful
05-26-2010, 18:03
I believe Dundo is now a picnic area, but used to be a group campsite.

Lellers
05-27-2010, 08:36
Yes, no camping at Dundo anymore. Used to be a group site and advanced reservations were required. I stopped there for a late afternoon water and Snickers break last October, and a passing ranger stopped to let me know there was no camping at Dundo anymore.

grumpypickle
05-27-2010, 10:03
I literally just finished this exact hike 5 days ago. All observations re bugs, especially ticks, are spot on. The water situation is not great but not desperate either. All of the huts had flowing springs but there is no water between Calf Mt and Blackrock Hut so plan accordingly. Blackrock was flowing but I can't guarantee that will be the case in 2 weeks. Water is readily available for your last 70 miles.

There was a surprising lack of thru-hikers, I think the early season snows delayed many folks. They should be out in force when you are there. The Byrd's nest is a great new shelter area, particularly in the summer. I heard a number of hikers gripe that it was cold as a bugger because it faces the prevailing wind but I didn't stay there.

Skyline
05-27-2010, 10:05
Y'all have this pretty well covered. I just want to add two more things:

1) Do not drink the water at Thornton Gap's restrooms. It was contaminated last winter and is still posted. There are plans to drill a new well.

2) One more "wayside" to mention--this one just outside the Park's northern boundary. Tom Floyd Wayside is not a place to buy beer, ice cream, blackberry shakes, or anything else. It is a PATC overnight shelter with (iffy) spring, privy, and tentsites. How many hikers have made tracks for this "wayside" and were majorly disappointed to not find the aforementioned amenities? Kind of the antidote to Trail Magic, but a decent place to stay overnight.

Chif
05-27-2010, 10:20
I will be hiking from Loft mtn. to lewis mtn. in a couple of weeks. Are there cables or poles for bear bag hanging at these shelters? Anything else I should be aware of?

Knees
05-27-2010, 11:12
We hit Rockfish Gap soon heading NOBO. This is the perfect thread! :)

In '05 I was in full thru hiker shape and just blew through without needing resupply. Stopped in at Skyland for a meal and whichever wayside was practically on the trail for a shake and fries (maybe the last one?). As I recall I had food to spare when I got to Front Royal.

This time we'll be traveling more at GA/NC mileage. I'm thinking one resupply about midway through so maybe Big Meadows. Willing to carry five or six days worth of food. Any suggestions?

ShoelessWanderer
05-27-2010, 12:16
Yes, no camping at Dundo anymore. Used to be a group site and advanced reservations were required. I stopped there for a late afternoon water and Snickers break last October, and a passing ranger stopped to let me know there was no camping at Dundo anymore.

They should really update their signs then. lol.

Lellers
05-27-2010, 17:19
I will be hiking from Loft mtn. to lewis mtn. in a couple of weeks. Are there cables or poles for bear bag hanging at these shelters? Anything else I should be aware of?

Yes, in SNP, there are bear poles in all of the shelter areas. Last October, however, at Blackrocks Hut we still had problems with critters getting into food hung on the poles. The shelter register was full of entries noting others had the same problem.

chiefiepoo
05-28-2010, 11:00
[QUOTE=Knees;1017145]We hit Rockfish Gap soon heading NOBO. This is the perfect thread! :)

In '05 I was in full thru hiker shape and just blew through without needing resupply. Stopped in at Skyland for a meal and whichever wayside was practically on the trail for a shake and fries (maybe the last one?). As I recall I had food to spare when I got to Front Royal.

This time we'll be traveling more at GA/NC mileage. I'm thinking one resupply about midway through so maybe Big Meadows. Willing to carry five or six days worth of food. Any suggestions?

Been to the big Meadows wayside store many times in recent years by car. Last time was in '08. Backpacker friendly with potatos, carrots, onions, fruit by the piece. Canned tuna, spam, packaged processed meats and dairy. Even remember some freeze dried offerings a while back. Fuel, and car camping grade supplies available too. No guarantees for this year though. I plan to call them though. For my 12 day walk, I plan to start out with 50% of anticipated food needs and fuel. Resupply as needed at camp stores, take meals at lodges and waysides and oh, as a single traveler I have frequently been offered left overs or the bottom of a pot when arriving late at a campsite. Freeganism works for me.

coyote13
07-20-2010, 21:16
I plan on hiking SNP from South to North and the back again to start in early May of 2011.I am 51 and walk (without pack) 7-10 miles daily.
Talk to me of weather ,water , cabbages and kings...

Aesop43
07-21-2010, 15:54
[QUOTE=Knees;1017145]We hit Rockfish Gap soon heading NOBO. This is the perfect thread! :)

Been to the big Meadows wayside store many times in recent years by car. Last time was in '08. Backpacker friendly with potatos, carrots, onions, fruit by the piece. Canned tuna, spam, packaged processed meats and dairy. Even remember some freeze dried offerings a while back. Fuel, and car camping grade supplies available too. No guarantees for this year though. I plan to call them though.

As of three days ago, the wayside market still had all of this, including freeze-dried. There's a huge selection of limited-quality camping gear, too, which is certainly good enough in an emergency or until you can get to a proper outfitters.

ExosC3
07-21-2010, 21:14
SNP just got a TON of federal money as well and theyve been doing many improvements!

coyote13
07-23-2010, 22:26
sounds like a good plan. i am going to do the park starting at south end on 05/05/2011 and going to north end then turning around and coming back.that way i can do most/all the side trips i want to.might stretch it to 45 days if i feel like meandering.no time restraints makes for a new experience for me. after all these years i don't have to be back for work/school or...anything!!!

freefall
07-23-2010, 23:04
I grew up in VA and spent a lot of time in SNP. So many side trails that it is hard to remember.

Bare Fence Mountain
Dark Hollow Falls
Stony Man
Hawks-bill.

Bumpa
07-24-2010, 11:28
Looking to hike Front Royal south to Rockfish, the last week of August. What are the bugs typically like that time of year. I realize there will be a variety of factors which affect the answer from year to year...but generally what is it like

johnnybgood
07-24-2010, 13:28
Personally, the summer months in Shenandoah are not my favorite for hiking for that exact reason but if that's when you can do it then prepare for it.
Also August is a month when the bees tend to more active as the new batch of eggs have hatched and the worker bees are now unemployed , thus buzzing around looking to get into your food and basically being a menace.
It's been unusually hot this summer with inconsistent rain so the bugs could really be bad this August if this weather pattern stays consistent.
Although August could bring rain from a tropical system which could help replenish the water table and change the dynamics of things between now and then.
Here's hoping for a cool hike.

macrylinda1
07-24-2010, 22:14
I have done this both NOBO and SOBO. Not much in water until you get to Loft Mtn. Southern section is dry, so plan accordingly. Will be up there Thurs so can check on the spring at Blackrock (which people say is a trickle) Probably will be pretty warm, but you're used to that. Prepare for ticks - coat your clothes with pyrethrin beforehand and check yourselves daily. I think going NOBO is easier, IMO. Waysides are pricey for resupply.
Will be plenty of thru hikers then, be sure to take a tent. There are tentsites at shelters.
There will be thru hikers then but you should not have a problem with shelter space. It is always a good idea to carry a tent just in case. I have hiked this section twice. I agree that water can be scarce, but you should not have trouble getting waters at shelters. Very nice trail, with lots of side trails.

Enjoy your hike