View Full Version : Canister stove vs. alcohol stove?
grrickar
11-04-2004, 21:45
Has anyone compared the fuel consumption of an alcohol stove versus one of the new lightweight canister stoves?
I just picked up an Optimus Crux canister stove (3.1oz, paid about $50 s/h included) that should really lighten up my pack. My last section hike I carried a 22oz MSR fuel bottle full of coleman gas to power my Optimus Nova stove, which weighs about a pound itself. I figured with the Crux I lightened my stove weight considerably, and the fuel canister will not be anywhere near as heavy as a 22oz liquid fuel bottle full of fuel. Best part of it all is that it all nests inside my Snow Peak titanium cookset.
I have read the posts and it seems most use alcohol stoves, and I can see the advantages of them, but for 5-7 day section hikes are there any weight benefits to alcohol versus a lightweight canister stove setup?
Depends on how much you need to use your stove. The step-in weight for a small canister + stove = 10oz. My experience is that this is enough fuel to boil 14 24oz pots of water which is more than enough for a solo 5-7 day trip. Alcohol stove + fuel bottle + windshield ~3oz. You can normally boil 16oz with around .7oz of alcohol. For me, 7 days is around 5oz of alcohol for a total weight of around 8oz, which is 2oz less that the canister. But the canister is more energy efficent, so it will be lighter if you need to boil more.
No there is not an advantage of the acholol stove over the timeframe you define...however if you are doing a thruhike you will want too reconsider if the convenience of the acholol stove might prove best in the long run! To me there is no debate !
SGT Rock
11-04-2004, 23:20
www.thru-hiker.com has some stats on that sort of thing. I have done a lot of work comparing the various alcohol stove builds using the same criteria. My choice will be alcohol.
i VOTE for cannister everytime....
reasons: EASY to use....NO MESS....NO CLEAN UP.....
my biggest concern with an alcohol stove....(I'm very clumsy!)...afraid i might spill all of my fuel in one ....Ooooops...incident!
hehehehehehe :D
Youngblood
11-05-2004, 07:57
i VOTE for cannister everytime....
reasons: EASY to use....NO MESS....NO CLEAN UP.....
my biggest concern with an alcohol stove....(I'm very clumsy!)...afraid i might spill all of my fuel in one ....Ooooops...incident!
hehehehehehe :D
Hey Jaybird... do you know if it is legal to brew your own alcohol stove fuel? If so, maybe we could start up a business selling alcohol stove fuel brewing equipment? :)
But back to the original question on this thread. I haven't used a canister stove but my impression was that they worked well and for trips of some length the weight issue wasn't too much of a issue... the biggest issues I recall were what to do with used cartridges, how/if you can get new ones and do you need to carry more than one to fully use up a cartridge.
Youngblood
SGT Rock
11-05-2004, 09:14
It isn't illegal to make your own, only to make it and sell it without the tax stamp.
Kerosene
11-05-2004, 10:14
A lightweight canister stove with a small-sized canister is very convenient for 1-2 week section hikes with little if any weight penalty. However, due to the challenges of re-supply and disposal, I would almost certainly move to an alcohol stove if I was going out for more than 2 weeks (I can only hope that I get the chance to go out for that long again at some point).
For 5-7 days, I'd probably go with a canister stove. Or, with the alcohol. It doesn't really matter as the weight savings for one over the other will be minimal and insignificant. Instead, I would take the one that seemed most convenient to me. If I had a full canister and was not resupplying, I would take my SnoPeak. If I was going to resupply, I'd take the alcohol. If I didn't have a full canister, I'd take the alcohol.
bulldog49
01-13-2005, 16:28
How difficult is it to obtain fuel cannisters along the trail? When I eventually do my thru hike, that is what I'd like to use. I'll gladly trade a few ounces for the convenience of saving 5 minutes to boil water and having the ability to simmer my Lipton's and Ramen noodles.
Footslogger
01-13-2005, 16:38
How difficult is it to obtain fuel cannisters along the trail? When I eventually do my thru hike, that is what I'd like use. I'll gladly trade a few ounces for the convenience of saving 5 minutes to boil water and having the ability to simmer my Lipton's and Ramen noodles.=============================
Each year it gets easier to get the propane/butane cannisters. I don't use the cannisters any more on distance hikes but in 2001, when my wife hiked the AT I ended up sending her cannisters almost the entire distance because she could not reliably buy them at outfitters. Now the outfitters (and hostels) appreciate the demand and are generally well stocked during the hiking season.
As I said, I don't use the cannister type stoves any more on distance hikes. However, If I was going to use them I would plan to purchase them as I went. You should have no problem.
'Slogger
AT 2003
I've always used white gas stoves (SVEA 123), but got a canister stove as a present this year and am very impressed. Easy to light with a very hot fire. I may switch.
IMO, the canister stove would be better than an alcohol stove for sections hikes.
SGT Rock
01-13-2005, 21:14
Even a light canister stove weighs around 3 ounces, plus a 7 ounce fuel container (3.5 ounces of fuel in the canister), for about 10 total ounces. If you are doing a short hike of just 5-7 days, you still get the entire canister. Your fuel consumption at two hot meals a day should be around 0.5 - 0.6 ounces per day of fuel (numbers based on tests at www.thru-hiker.com), so depending on the exact length of the hike, you will either have 1/2 an ounce left, or you will run short and either need a bigger bottle or two smaller bottles. For sake of comparison I'll just assume your going for 6 days at that rate so the bottle is empty at the end. Your average weight per day over the course of the hike will be about 8.2 ounces.
If you use alcohol, then about 2.5 ounces (depending on design) for a stove and fuel bottle, then you only take as much fuel as you need. Even with 2 hot meals a day, you should only need about 1.2 - 2 ounces (in volume) per day depending on design and weather. The amount of fuel at the start would be 7.2 - 12 ounces with a weight between 5.9 ounces and 9.8 ounces. So your start weight would be between 8.4 ounces to 12.3 ounces. Just for sake of argument I'll go off the heaver end of fuel usage. So at a start weight of 12.3 ounces, alcohol seems worse since it is 2.3 ounces heavier, but at the end of the hike, the canister user has averaged 8.2 ounces per day, while the guy with alcohol has carried an average of 7.4 ounces per day.
If you really are tweaking the alcohol stove, then you can get by with a 0.6 ounce stove, 0.9 ounce bottle, and 1.2 ounces of fuel per day for a total fuel weight of 5.9 ounces. Your start weight is only 7.1 ounces (the weight of a canister for a stove) and an average weight of 4.4 ounces, close to the weight of the lighter of the stove bodies for the canister stove...
So what am I saying? The choice is still tithe user, weight isn't the only factor in a stove, but for short hikes, IMHO, the weight savings is still so great that alcohol is the preferred method over anything.
So what am I saying? The choice is still tithe user, weight isn't the only factor in a stove, but for short hikes, IMHO, the weight savings is still so great that alcohol is the preferred method over anything.
There has been so much testimony substantiating that sentence that its amazing that this stove/fuel debate continues to rage on.
I am convinced that it must find its origins somehow with the stove manufacturers and dealers who have to try and convince hikers to use either gas or cannister stoves because they could make much more money than if you just took a simple, cheap (or free) alcohol one.
The same goes for those water filters, too.
bulldog49
01-14-2005, 10:59
IMO, Sarge gives an excellent argument for using a canister stove. For an average weight savings of less than an ounce you gain the advantage of quicker boil time, ability to simmer and no fussing with filling the stove. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
Don't forget that the Trangia simmers very well-like some other alcohol stoves- and it has the further advantage that you just have to fill it every few days or so. It is a no-brainer. Besides, a thru- hike is just a bunch of section hikes strung together.
bulldog49
01-14-2005, 12:07
Don't forget that the Trangia simmers very well-like some other alcohol stoves- and it has the further advantage that you just have to fill it every few days or so. It is a no-brainer. Besides, a thru- hike is just a bunch of section hikes strung together.
What's your point highway? Other than the savings of a few ounces, what advantage does an alcohol stove have over a cannister stove? If the sole decision on stove selection is weight, then why use any stove at all. You gain a greater weight savings by cooking over an open campfire vs alcohol stove than you do alcohol vs cannister. I can take my stove out of my pack and have a pot of boiling water in 4 minutes, less than half the time you can do that with an alcohol stove. And I never have to worry about messy fuel spills.
Fiddleback
01-14-2005, 17:16
"That's what makes a market..."
I use the same argument as bulldog49 to carry an alcohol stove. It's a fast, clean set up compared to, e.g., my WhisperLite. One piece, no fuel lines to attach, no pumping, no adjustments (and of course, no simmering :D )...just a very quick set up and go. But then, I've never used a cannister stove...
For the time being, I'm hooked on a stove that satisfies all my 'cooking' needs and doesn't register on my scales.
FB
SGT Rock
01-14-2005, 18:19
IMO, Sarge gives an excellent argument for using a canister stove. For an average weight savings of less than an ounce you gain the advantage of quicker boil time, ability to simmer and no fussing with filling the stove. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
Well that isn't all true. Based on the tests at www.thru-hiker.com, the faster boils only occur when the tank is full, after the pressure drops when the tank starts to get empty, you can actually get faster boils with alcohol. http://www.thru-hiker.com/articles.asp?subcat=2&cid=42
While you can use a homemade stove like the Cat which will boil in 4:30, not bad at all for speed.
But again, it is about choices, the thing is, any choice has it's drawbacks. To say that the canistr is always faster isn't true, to say that the alcohol stove is always lighter also isn't true. The thing is to not treat the information as a debate or contest, but as objective information. I haven't tried to tell anyone not to use a canister, I have just tried to present what the information is as I know it. I have told some people not to buy some alcohol stoves because they are not good at all IMHO.
Let the user that has to carry it decide what they need. What I will often reccomend though is before someone goes out and lays down a lot of money on any type of stove, that they try building an alcohol stove and test it out. If it meets you needs, why spend $30 - $80 if you don't need hot water in 1:30 seconds.
MadAussieInLondon
01-15-2005, 06:00
not wanting the fuss of transfering my stove (my brasslite solo) from america to england, when I go hiking for a month this year, Ive got a snowpeak titanium gst-100. its 74 grams (which i think is 2.6 ounces). I would much rather my alch stove but its not an option. So I will be using cannisters,
right now there is
msr with 80/20 isobutane/propane
coleman with 70/30 butane/propane
snowpeak with 70/30 butane/lpg (which i think they just mean propane)
jetboil make expensive isobutane/propane (but I dont know the %% mix).
msr make an 4 and 8 oz cannister.
coleman do a 6 and 12 oz cannister
snowpeak do a 7 and 13 oz cannister
im planning on using about 3 cannisters or using 1 of the coleman 12s and 1x 6 (due to resupply difficulties in the middle of english nowhere!! rural villages dont stock outdoor stores...)
its gonna be a whole nother experience for me. I got using my brasslite down to a fine art with guaging fuel in weather conditions and using my pot cozy....
i dont like the fact that you cant re-use the cannisters. do all outfitters take back the empties? whats the go on the recycle front for those??
SGT Rock
01-15-2005, 08:28
That must suck. I thought they had methylated spirits in England?
MadAussieInLondon
01-15-2005, 12:16
they sure do have metho here.. but I'd have to get my brasslite sent over from america (my fiancee has it) which would be a hassle. I already have this cannister stove anyway...
Dances with Mice
01-15-2005, 12:31
I was waiting until Bloody Cactus replied since I was confident he'd know how to find appropriate fuel for whatever stove he had.
Here's a link that translates camping fuel names across different nations. I actually found this on a juggling board, it helped some very confused performers from the UK understand why they were shown blocks of hard, white waxy stuff when they went into a US hardware store and asked for 'paraffin' for their juggling torches.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~mbuckler/fuel/index.shtml
MadAussieInLondon
01-15-2005, 16:42
haha yeah parrafin is kero, but to me and you its wax :) dont was me why the brits call it parrafin... i eqaute parrafin to candles
I live in the UK, you can get standard screw type cannisters just about everywhere now, you should have no problem.
My stove of choice is the Trangia 27, no moving parts to break down, work in any conditions, fantastic bit of kit :)
The brits call it paraffin because its a chemistry thing, it belongs to the "paraffin's" class of Alkane's, lower down the chain than petrol, higher up than methane gas etc
What's your point highway? Other than the savings of a few ounces, what advantage does an alcohol stove have over a cannister stove? If the sole decision on stove selection is weight, then why use any stove at all. You gain a greater weight savings by cooking over an open campfire vs alcohol stove than you do alcohol vs cannister. I can take my stove out of my pack and have a pot of boiling water in 4 minutes, less than half the time you can do that with an alcohol stove. And I never have to worry about messy fuel spills.
actually you'll find that if you somehow spill that canister you will be dealing with a much messier clean up and if it happens in your pack you might as well kiss your clothes and other equipment goodbye cause it's gonna be ruined! and it doesn't take eight minutes to boil water with most alcohol stoves. plus what is your hurry it seems that more and more people are always trying to rush in the woods, where is the fun in hurrying while cooking???
i'm an alkie, but i think i have to defend the cannister here... if it leaks, i think it mostly just dissipates as a vapor.... sort of like a cigarette lighter... it's not really a spill like a white gas/coleman fuel bottle.
that's one other thing i like about alcohol... even if it spills, there's not really a smelly mess... it mostly just evaporates. and you can clean up with soap and water...
ShadJBaker
12-30-2010, 20:47
I've been backpacking since 1993 on the AT. I've used the Whisperlite, Whisperlite International, Coleman Dual Fuel 442, Trangia alcohol stove, SnowPeak's Giga Stove and a traditional homemade alcohol stove (two pop can bottoms with fiberglass insulation inside).
I dropped the Whisperlite because we once ran out of fuel and could not find Coleman fuel at a local gas station. It was also loud and messy to prime. The Whisperlite International allowed for gasoline use in emergencies, but had the same troubles. At the time, my friends were carrying Coleman Dual Fuel stoves and I found that they were regularly eating when I was just ready to cook (after assembling and priming my stove). I used the Dual Fuel for several years, but complained about its weight. When we got serious about trimming our pack weights (45 lbs down to 25 lbs.), we upgraded.
Some opted for the Snow Peak Giga. I read all the light weight reviews and went with the Trangia. On one 5 day trip, I spilled part of my fuel, got burnt by flames I couldn't see or hear, and watched a friend accidentally knock his over and nearly burn down the Lambert's Meadow Shelter in southern VA. It was the only dry place around in a day of total down-pours. It took three of us to stomp the fire out and earned my friend the new trail-name 'Bonfire'. If safety is at all important, think twice about using an alcohol stove.
I now have and have used for 6 years a Snow Peak Giga Stove (titanium). I've never had a single problem. It weighs 3.1 oz. It boils water 1 cup of water from 69 degrees in 2 minutes and 10 sec. at 1600ft. That works out to 0.35 oz. of fuel/cup of water. One 7 oz. canister is the perfect size (based on my use) to last 6 days. This works out to a total weight of stove and fuel of 10.1 oz.
I just built a alcohol burner today. It weighs 0.4 oz. It took 5 tablespoons of fuel (2.5 oz.) of methanol 5 minutes to boil 1 cup of water from 69 degrees at 1600 ft. I burnt myself three times in the process. I expect that it would take roughly one 11 oz. bottle to last for 6 days (if I don't spill a drop). This amounts to a total weight of 13.6 oz.
Maybe the methanol is the problem, but someone show me where the alcohol is lighter. The STOVE is lighter. The FUEL is not. :confused:
maybe clem
12-30-2010, 21:04
How about Esbits?
4eyedbuzzard
12-30-2010, 21:38
I've been backpacking since 1993 on the AT. I've used the Whisperlite, Whisperlite International, Coleman Dual Fuel 442, Trangia alcohol stove, SnowPeak's Giga Stove and a traditional homemade alcohol stove (two pop can bottoms with fiberglass insulation inside).
I dropped the Whisperlite because we once ran out of fuel and could not find Coleman fuel at a local gas station. It was also loud and messy to prime. The Whisperlite International allowed for gasoline use in emergencies, but had the same troubles. At the time, my friends were carrying Coleman Dual Fuel stoves and I found that they were regularly eating when I was just ready to cook (after assembling and priming my stove). I used the Dual Fuel for several years, but complained about its weight. When we got serious about trimming our pack weights (45 lbs down to 25 lbs.), we upgraded.
Some opted for the Snow Peak Giga. I read all the light weight reviews and went with the Trangia. On one 5 day trip, I spilled part of my fuel, got burnt by flames I couldn't see or hear, and watched a friend accidentally knock his over and nearly burn down the Lambert's Meadow Shelter in southern VA. It was the only dry place around in a day of total down-pours. It took three of us to stomp the fire out and earned my friend the new trail-name 'Bonfire'. If safety is at all important, think twice about using an alcohol stove.
I now have and have used for 6 years a Snow Peak Giga Stove (titanium). I've never had a single problem. It weighs 3.1 oz. It boils water 1 cup of water from 69 degrees in 2 minutes and 10 sec. at 1600ft. That works out to 0.35 oz. of fuel/cup of water. One 7 oz. canister is the perfect size (based on my use) to last 6 days. This works out to a total weight of stove and fuel of 10.1 oz.
I just built a alcohol burner today. It weighs 0.4 oz. It took 5 tablespoons of fuel (2.5 oz.) of methanol 5 minutes to boil 1 cup of water from 69 degrees at 1600 ft. I burnt myself three times in the process. I expect that it would take roughly one 11 oz. bottle to last for 6 days (if I don't spill a drop). This amounts to a total weight of 13.6 oz.
Maybe the methanol is the problem, but someone show me where the alcohol is lighter. The STOVE is lighter. The FUEL is not. :confused:
I've owned many stoves since the mid-70's, a Svea 123, Optimus 8R, Wisperlite, XGK, Bluet (one of the first canisters), Zzip Zstove, Pocket Rocket, Jetboil, and a Starlyte (read on). Regarding the spilling problem, one of our members here, Zelph, is a cottage industry stove builder. He manufactures a spill proof design called the Starlyte. The alcohol is absorbed into a wicking type material in the stove. It weighs less than an ounce. Nice little alky stove for solo hiking.
I think we all go a little too nuts over the fuel / weight issue. We all tend to carry more fuel than we generally use, so there's always a weight penalty to some degree anyway. The fuel weight differences even for extended trips rarely amounts to more than a couple ounces either way. I believe most in depth studies, like Sgt Rocks, result in Esbit being the most weight efficient, but of course, the most costly per boil. I've come to the conclusion that, safety issues aside, folks should just carry whatever stove they like best. Some will opt for convenience, some for weight savings, most choose a happy medium that suits their partticular needs. I love the convenience of the Jetboil, but I have mostly decided that on longer hikes I will cook on open fires whenever possible, and carry the Starlyte or a few Esbits as a backup. On a day hike or overnight, the Jetboil often gets the nod, especially if it's going to be windy.
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18383&highlight=starlyte
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/grease%20pot%20kit/th_ZMartCookKitUTube.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v228/obijiwa/grease%20pot%20kit/?action=view¤t=ZMartCookKitUTube.flv)
Skidsteer
12-30-2010, 22:02
I just built a alcohol burner today. It weighs 0.4 oz. It took 5 tablespoons of fuel (2.5 oz.) of methanol 5 minutes to boil 1 cup of water from 69 degrees at 1600 ft. I burnt myself three times in the process. I expect that it would take roughly one 11 oz. bottle to last for 6 days (if I don't spill a drop). This amounts to a total weight of 13.6 oz.
Maybe the methanol is the problem, but someone show me where the alcohol is lighter. The STOVE is lighter. The FUEL is not. :confused:
You should stick with a canister stove if you burn yourself three times boiling a cup of water with an alcohol stove.
earlyriser26
12-30-2010, 23:39
go with a cannister stove (POCKET ROCKET) You can get fuel almost everywhere. easy to use, much less of a saftey issue.
hnryclay
12-31-2010, 13:13
If you hike in the winter, then I suggest two stoves. Alcohol has a lot of disadvantages as do the canisters below 20 degrees. Nothing beats white gas, at altitude, or when it is cold. I use Alcohol most of the time, but when it is cold a white gas stove is more appropriate mine is a Whisperlite International. This is also emergency heat when you need it, not something I would personally risk with alcohol.
... went with the Trangia. On one 5 day trip, I spilled part of my fuel, got burnt by flames I couldn't see or hear, and watched a friend accidentally knock his over and nearly burn down the Lambert's Meadow Shelter in southern VA...I just built a alcohol burner today. It weighs 0.4 oz. It took 5 tablespoons of fuel (2.5 oz.) of methanol 5 minutes to boil 1 cup of water from 69 degrees at 1600 ft. I burnt myself three times in the process.I would not use alcohol; wouldn't even consider it. Do something else. And your friend.
I suppose it is possible to require 2.5 oz.of alcohol to boil a cup of 69 F water. Maybe somebody accidentally pissed in your fuel bottle? But in any case, with that kind of experience I'd want no part of it.
Methanol is certainly not as good as good ethanol. But the difference between methanol and ethanol is not, alone, enough to account for your results.
If you hike in the winter, then I suggest two stoves. Alcohol has a lot of disadvantages as do the canisters below 20 degrees. Nothing beats white gas, at altitude, or when it is cold.I certainly agree about cold. But just on a whim, my first trip this Winter I took an alcohol stove, and just filled my fuel bottle, more than double what I normally would have needed for this trip. I figured WTH, carry some extra alcoholl and procrastinate on getting out the gas stove, checking the seals etc. Sounds good.
At around 15 degrees it worked fine, very little extra fuel required. I use ethanol, so it was a tiny bit harder to get started, took several passes of the match, but it roared. I also insulated the stove base somewhat. And I have a very good windscreen. I can see though that anything much colder than this would have been hard-lghting, maybe impossible. Methanol lights easier in the cold but obviously it's significantly less efficient.
As has been pointed out, the weight difference between the two is only a couple of ounces. Also it has been pointed out that personal preferences regarding other attributes beside weight are important. One attribute of alkie stoves is why my friends prefer I use it is as such: I am an early riser, often before the sun. When I make my AM coffee or tea I can do it almost silently without disturbing others since the alkie stove is a silent burn, not the jet-roar. I like it for this reason too as it allows me to sit in silence and await the morning's light without the interruption of the gas jets. Not a fan of the cost of gas canisters either. I do use them though for some trips, the right tool for the job and all that.
wcgornto
12-31-2010, 16:17
Impressive thread resurrection
I certainly agree about cold. But just on a whim, my first trip this Winter I took an alcohol stove, and just filled my fuel bottle, more than double what I normally would have needed for this trip. I figured WTH, carry some extra alcoholl and procrastinate on getting out the gas stove, checking the seals etc. Sounds good.
At around 15 degrees it worked fine, very little extra fuel required. I use ethanol, so it was a tiny bit harder to get started, took several passes of the match, but it roared. I also insulated the stove base somewhat. And I have a very good windscreen. I can see though that anything much colder than this would have been hard-lghting, maybe impossible. Methanol lights easier in the cold but obviously it's significantly less efficient.
I disagree with the cold weather comments about alcohol to a large extent. I have used homemade and commercially available alcohol stoves down to -5 degrees F with no difficulty (try that with a cannister stove and it's way more difficult). To light, dip a twig in the alcohol, light the twig with a lighter or match, and use the burning twig to light the stove. You will have to hold it over the alcohol longer than you would at warmer temps. Once the stove warms up a bit, it starts to vaporize the alcohol and you're good to get cooking.
The only time I would not use alcohol is for group cooking for 3 or more people, or for melting snow. White gas stoves (or woodburning stoves) work well in these situations.
Cannister - easy, relatively expensive. VERY rarely a valve can stick, emptying your cannister while you carry it.
Alcohol - more tricky to use. You can't usually turn it off - you must snuff it out when done, or measure out exactly how much you think you'll need and hope you're right. Can be made to simmer with some thought to design and "simmer rings" (air flow inhibitors).
As with cannisters, fuel can leak during transport (but more likely if flimsy container is used or cap is cross-threaded).
Esbit - What you have is unregulated hot burning cubed fuel which can work very well with a small cup (small flame pattern). I used it throughout Georgia in March 2006 as an experiment. It won't leak and is easy to carry, but smells and leaves a bit of crud on the bottom of your pot. It's about as efficient as alcohol. With both a windscreen is mandatory.
Once again, for you alcohol toting stovies - sleep with your fuel and carry it inside your jacket before you reach camp in the evening. Your boil times will be much quicker in cold weather. Actually, this works for all liquid fuels (including cannisters, which have liquified gas inside). I'm not sure whether there's any benefit for prewarming Esbit tabs with body heat.
shelterbuilder
01-01-2011, 12:21
Once again, for you alcohol toting stovies - sleep with your fuel and carry it inside your jacket before you reach camp in the evening. Your boil times will be much quicker in cold weather. Actually, this works for all liquid fuels (including cannisters, which have liquified gas inside). I'm not sure whether there's any benefit for prewarming Esbit tabs with body heat.
Back in the 70's - when (100%) butane cannister stoves first became popular - that's exactly what you had to do in the wintertime: you tossed your cannister down to the foot of your sleeping bag to keep it warm overnight. Some of these stoves didn't have self-sealing cannisters (Bluet, I think, was one) - I had a CHEAP Bernz-o-matic that used the same size threads as most of the cannister stoves of today, so I didn't have any trouble. But not everyone likes to sleep with their cannisters....
NOTHING works well in cold weather - including ME!
There is a very wide range of alcohol stove types. Some work better in the cold than others. I have two which I use in the Adirondack winters without any difficulty in getting them to light. I do not keep the fuel in my bag, nor do I do anything to pre-warm it. It is the design of the stove which allows for this.