View Full Version : Winter Backpacking - Great Smoky Mtns NP
MicahDawgNC
12-01-2004, 00:24
I'm looking for answers and suggestions as I am new to winter backpacking!
I am planning 2 backpacking excursions to GSMNP in the upcoming months (December and January).
I would basically like suggestions for places to go in the Smokies (preferably along the AT) that would be doable for an overnight trip first, then possibly a 2 or 3 nighter. Views are a plus!
I know that, at least when i was there in June, Tricorner Shelter had a roll-down tarp to close in the shelter on its open side. Are there other shelters that have this same feature?
Thanks a lot for your help!
-micahdawg
You may have road closures ie: us441 / clingman dome rd plus others. Best bet is to plan a complete trip from Fontana to Davenport Gap (72 miles) and hope for the best. You best talk to GSMNP Rangers if you are going to try to access some of the interior roads for shorter hikes. They could close while you are on the trail. I have winter hiked the park many times, the weather is very unpredictable during the winter, be prepared. You also have to get permitted and no dogs are allowed. Call the Smokies backcountry office (865-436-1297, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., eastern time; open every day)
I would basically like suggestions for places to go in the Smokies (preferably along the AT) that would be doable for an overnight trip first
An overnighter from Clingman's Dome to Newfound Gap (us441) if roads are open. Or, Cosby Campground to Newfound Gap, if camp and roads are open.
An overnighter from Clingman's Dome to Newfound Gap (us441) if roads are open. Or, Cosby Campground to Newfound Gap, if camp and roads are open.
Should have been Cosby Campground to Davenport Gap (near I-40)
orangebug
12-01-2004, 07:38
Also, should have been Newfound Gap to Clingman's Dome and back, as that road should be closed now.
I was snowed in at Tricorner Knob Shelter back in March 2001. I was well prepared with enough food, a zero degree sleeping bag and plenty of clothes. It was quite tough getting out as I didn't have snowshoes and had to post hole thigh deep to Carter's Knob Shelter and on to Davenport Gap the next day. The views were fabulous after the storm passed, but I was a bit frightened at the time. I know I would be very reluctant to try that alone again.
The ridges of the AT and such can be windy and cold, but the valleys and coves can get temperature inversions that make them even colder. I'd suggest a small initial trip out of Cade's Cove/Tremont area, maybe up to Spenser Field. You will have more rangers aware of your presence and hence a bit more of a safety cushion, if you insist on going alone.
The Solemates
12-01-2004, 11:00
I would basically like suggestions for places to go in the Smokies (preferably along the AT) that would be doable for an overnight trip first, then possibly a 2 or 3 nighter. Views are a plus!
For a 1 nighter:
Park at Newfound Gap, assuming the road is open, and proceed North on the AT. Hang a left at 3 miles on the Boulevard Trail and head towards Mt. LeConte. Spend the night on LeConte and then head back down the next morning. 8 miles up, 8 miles out. That will give you plenty of time to mess around, or you can day hike to Charlies Bunion (a mile past the Boulevard/AT juntion to bring the total mileage to 18 miles instead of 16). Or, you can skip the Boulevard and continue N on the AT, going across the Bunion and the Sawteeth until you reach Pecks Corner Shelter (something like 10 miles in, 10 miles out). Views are magnificent.
For a 2-3 nighter:
I would do a loop hike. There are literally hundreds to chose from in the Smokies. A few that come to mind:
Mt Cammerera (sp?) - AT - Snake Den Ridge - Gabes Mtn Trails (NE corner of park)
Elkmont Campground - Goshen Prong - AT - Miry Ridge Trails
Clingmans - AT loop
Cataloochee loops
..endless possibilities
grrickar
12-01-2004, 16:44
For a 1 nighter:
Park at Newfound Gap, assuming the road is open, and proceed North on the AT. Hang a left at 3 miles on the Boulevard Trail and head towards Mt. LeConte. Spend the night on LeConte and then head back down the next morning. 8 miles up, 8 miles out. That will give you plenty of time to mess around, or you can day hike to Charlies Bunion (a mile past the Boulevard/AT juntion to bring the total mileage to 18 miles instead of 16). Or, you can skip the Boulevard and continue N on the AT, going across the Bunion and the Sawteeth until you reach Pecks Corner Shelter (something like 10 miles in, 10 miles out). Views are magnificent.
I agree wholeheartedly. If I only had a day trip I would recommend this one. Best views in the Smokies along the AT in my opinion. Would be awesome with a light snow on the ground. I have seen some pictures of this section (in the WB gallery actually) with snow on the ground and it was awesome.
I would recommend that you consider instep crampons. I slipped and slid just when it was wet on the trail, and with all the seeps and runoff that could (most likely will) be frozen, you might have some issues if you don't have them.
For an overnighter, think about rumbling from Clingman's Dome to Silar Bald and back. After December (?), the Clingman's Dome road is closed. So, try Newfound Gap to Double Springs and back. I actually prefer Double Springs to Silar Bald, but it seems I am in the minority, for one is usually empty, the other busy. Double springs has a good privy and good water sources. Silars has neither.
The Leconte trip is highly recommended, but I wouldn't do it unless you have some snow travel experience. There are a few places on the Boulevard where there is quite a bit of exposure.
If you want a reasonable workout, from Cosby (closed in the wintertime), head up the Snake Den Ridge trail to the AT (nice work up). Take the AT NOBO (heading east in the park) to Cosby Shelter, which is a nice one. Spend the night. In the morning, leave your pack (if heavy, otherwise carry it) in the bear wires and hike up the AT to the Mount Cammerer firetower (.5 miles off the AT). If there is any visibility, you won't regret this. Return back down the AT to the Low Gap trail, and take this back into Cosby. You can make the hike longer by not returning to Low Gap, and instead taking the AT to the Lower Mount Cammerer trail, which also leads back into Cosby.
A simple, easy, stunning hike would be simply to hike from Newfound Gap out to Pecks Corner shelter, returning the next day.
I've got a few trip reports on this site about ramblings in the Smokys. They are probably longer in distance than you would like (keep it at 10-12 miles a day in the winter), but might give you some ideas.
The Solemates
12-01-2004, 17:30
I agree wholeheartedly. If I only had a day trip I would recommend this one. Best views in the Smokies along the AT in my opinion. Would be awesome with a light snow on the ground. I have seen some pictures of this section (in the WB gallery actually) with snow on the ground and it was awesome.
I would recommend that you consider instep crampons. I slipped and slid just when it was wet on the trail, and with all the seeps and runoff that could (most likely will) be frozen, you might have some issues if you don't have them.
Ive hiked through this same area when 3 feet of snow was on the ground. Beautiful winter wonderland. I love it; winter is probably my favorite hiking season. The fir boughs were bent all the way to the ground with snow weight. I never use crampons though, I just dont think they are needed at all.
The Solemates
12-01-2004, 17:34
In the morning, leave your pack (if heavy, otherwise carry it) in the bear wires and hike up the AT to the Mount Cammerer firetower (.5 miles off the AT). If there is any visibility, you won't regret this.
The firetower has to be one of the best views in the Southeast, especially in winter. Instead of ditching your pack though, why not take it with you and sleep in the firetower? Stellar sunset and sunrise both.
I would strongly reccommend crampons. I was stopped in my tracks along with 7 other folks coming from Newfound Gap to Cold Water. There are a lot of seeps in the hills and they can freeze to form a slanting ice rink. It takes forever to go even a few feet. All of us finally gave up. I think even some cheepy crampons would have saved the day.
Have fun!
APPLE
The firetower has to be one of the best views in the Southeast, especially in winter. Instead of ditching your pack though, why not take it with you and sleep in the firetower? Stellar sunset and sunrise both.
Well, it is illegal (I've done it, other people do as well). There isn't a water source. There isn't a convenient place to crap. There is a spectacular sunset and sunrise and great views down toward Knoxville at night. I spent my last night in the Smokys sleeping on the outer ring and don't regret it at all.
MicahDawgNC
12-01-2004, 19:02
Thank you all for your replies! You've given me some great direction.
I went on my first winter weather overnighter (10 degrees and snow) last weekend at Mt.Rogers, VA so now I know at least some of what to expect.
I will defintely be looking into the AT/Boulevard Trail route... Is the shelter on top of LeConte open year round though?
-micahdawg
Yes, although water is shut off. Plan to melt snow for water while you are up there. Rather pretty in the winter time, really. Note that you can come up (or go down) via Trillium Gap and Brushy Mountain (trailhead in Greenbrier) and avoid the exposure (and scenic qualities) of the Boulevard.
The Solemates
12-02-2004, 18:45
There is also a "lodge" atop LeConte that is fun to visit while you are around. There should be a resident caretaker there and probably other visitors getting out of the cold. But they have heat and board games and its fun to spend an afternoon there.
smokymtnsteve
12-02-2004, 19:46
U need to take a "gift" to the caretaker at Leconte.
maybe a newspaper.
The Solemates
12-03-2004, 10:26
U need to take a "gift" to the caretaker at Leconte.
maybe a newspaper.
Ive never heard of this or heard of anyone doing it and I have been up there numerous times in the winter. They welcome the company.
The Solemates
12-03-2004, 10:28
PS....Micah:
where in salisbury? my family is from rockwell, nc. just down the road.
smokymtnsteve
12-03-2004, 14:02
Ive never heard of this or heard of anyone doing it and I have been up there numerous times in the winter. They welcome the company.
well U have heard of it now and know someone who has taken the CT a "gift"
think about it, your spending the season isolated up on a Mtn and folks come by to visit ,,,
bringing a newpaper or current magazine or 'favorite' food is a nice thing to do.
U know the old saying do unto others as U would have them do unto U?
MicahDawgNC
12-03-2004, 22:53
PS....Micah:
where in salisbury? my family is from rockwell, nc. just down the road.
I'm from Salisbury proper. Went to SHS, graduated in '99. Yourself?
I know that both LeConte and Camerer are great places to visit, at least in the summer and fall months. I have done both this past year and loved both of them. They are my two favourite spots in the whole park. I look forward to hiking them this winter as I have reservations at LeCont for New Year's Eve. I'm hoping for some snow so I can see the winter wonderland I've seen on the pics posted here. The Dome is a good place, but as mentioned previously the road is now closed for the winter. It is a moderate hike from Newfound Gap to the Dome, but it would be worth it if you are interested. Just thought I'd put my two cents in. Enjoy wherever you get to go.
The Solemates
12-06-2004, 11:04
I'm from Salisbury proper. Went to SHS, graduated in '99. Yourself?
Like I said, its my family. I did not grow up there, but all of my cousins went to Rowan High.
Just returned from weekend trip to GSMNP, Clingmans's Dome Rd as well as some others are closed for season. Trail's are very icy at elevations, I needed my cleats. US441 is open.