Mt. Washington in winter

[PeterPan85]

Hey all,

This January I plan on driving up from NJ to attempt a Mt. Washington winter hike to the summit. I am wondering if any of you live in the area. I have a few questions I want to ask about my gear and tentative plan/timeline (Pinkham Notch - Summit via Tuckerman Ravine).

Thanks all, and have a very happy and safe holiday! See you out there.

[canoehead]

These are the best local guides in that area. you'll find gear lists and answers to most of your question here. They're all over the whites and the world and good folks to.

http://ime-usa.com/imcs/mountaineering.html

[Slo-go'en]

The problem with climbing Mt Washington is that you need to let the weather pick the day you climb. That can mean spending some time in the area until you get the right day. Ideally, you want to go up the day after a cold front moves through. After the front passes, the winds die down to more reasonable levels (like 20-40 mph instead of 60-80 mph or more) and the sky is clear. Two days or more after the front has passed by, it is starting to get hazy again and the summit will likely be back in a fog with snow flurries.

For gear, you will need plastic double boots with step in crampons. An ice axe is recommended, as you will be on some steep slopes approching the summit. Face mask, goggles and a good wind suit, preferably made of Grotex, with the usual layers underneith.

The traditional approch trail to the summit from Pinkham is via the Tuckerman ravine trail up to Hermit lake shelter and then the Lion head trail up to the summit. You do not want to climb up the ravine! Plan on it taking pretty much all day.

It's been many years since I climbed Washington in the winter, and that once was enough for me! (crystal clear day, but -20 with strong, gusty winds at the summit)

[4eyedbuzzard]

If you're a novice at above tree line winter climbing, you should go with one of the guide / instruction services. IMCS was mentioned, EMS in North Conway also runs similar programs as do some others. The AMGA certifies mountain guides / instructors. You can check the certification of guides and accreditation of climbing schools at their website. http://hireaguide.amga.com/how_to_hire.html

[DLANOIE]

I climbed it in February last year. You will want all the gear as mentioned above. I found the ice axe to be key going up Lions head(winter route) as it was steep and icey. I do not own plastic boots and I did fine with my North Face winter hikers.

And as mentioned give yourself a window for the weather. You will not want to be up there during inclimate weather.

Of all the times I have hiked Mnt. Washington, in the winter has been the best for me.

[peakbagger]

Some general info as its hard to be real specific as the conditions will vary.

Number 1 is that only about 1 day out of 3 in the winter is it good and "safe" to climb washington. If you dont have that in your schedule, you have to realize that you may not reach your goal or will take chances doing it. The approach via Tuckermans Ravine trail to the summit is generally closed in early winter. The normal route from the east is Tuckerman Ravine trail to Lions Head winter route then hook back up with the tucks trail at the top of the ravine and up to the summit. This is the standard winter route. The Lions Head winter route is very steep in spots, an ice ax and good crampons (not microspikes) should be carried and used and make sure you know how to use the ice ax for arrest. The problem with the Easterly approach is that the weather comes from the west, its may be reasonable at Pinkham but when you break out at Lions head, you may have to turn around due to wind conditions, this happens frequently.

Some folks do the westerly approach from the Cog, Up Ammonusuc or Jewell then up Gulfside of Crawford Path to the summit. These are less used routes so they may not be as well broken out and Ammonusuc gets real icy. You are exposed more to the prevailing wind but it also allows you to turn around quicker as if its nasty down below, its dangerous up above.

As for soloing the mountain in winter, it is really not recomended. If its reasonable weather, you wont be alone as there are other folks on the mountain but they are not responsible for you. Hypothermia can sneak up pretty quickly and without someone else on the hike its real easy to make bad decisions. There are also times when the conditions above treeline can go from bright and sunny to white out in a few minutes. With two people you can go cairn to cairn but with one that option is gone.

For gear, its important to have something to cover all exposed skin with a wind block outer shell and goggles.

[woodsy]

I would recommend you read, if you haven't already, all about how easy it is to die on Mt Washington, especially in winter.
Used copies for less than a $1

http://www.amazon.com/Not-Without-Peril-Misadventure-Presidential/dp/1929173067

[Tinker]

Hiking up Tuckerman keeps you out of the prevailing wind from the west, but you'll be in deep and often unstable snow. The headwall is the worst part, with frequent avalanches. Call Pinkham Notch Camp for snow conditions before you head up. Boot Spur is easier but longer and more exposed along its length. You could head up Tuckerman ("Tucks") Ravine and stay at the Hermit Shelters to wait out weather, and you could take the Boot Spur Link to Boot spur for a relatively safe (and easier) route.

[Highway Man]

I'm fine with what most people said about the gears. And a few things I want to add,
- Are you familiar with the route? It's really hard to navigate in the clouds, or see the snow covered cairns if you're back-lit. I knew some people said one must have hiked to the summit five times under a good weather condition before climbing it in winter.
- You may also need a pair of snow shoes. That can help save a lot of energy.
- Make a good turn-around time, i.e. 1~2 PM to reach the summit, or turn back. It gets dark quick now.
- Go with your partners or follow other groups if you can keep them in your sight.
- Use controlled butt-sliding. A big relief to the leg muscles when you are tired.
I only did it from the Ammonoosuc trail from the cog rail station in Feb. Winter hiking is a real fun. Enjoy it.

[Toolshed]

I'd like to add that when you are hiking in whiteout conditions or deep fog, you can very easily become disoriented and your speed will travel to a crawl, and what you would think would take only an hour to cover might take 2 or more, leading to more disorientation, thinking you are at a certain spot when you are nowhere near it.

Safe winter travel is groups of 3.

Also, never, ever count on just retracing your steps back Crampon holes and scratches are easily covered up by spindrfit and blowing snow.

As for plastic boots, I have had few pairs over the years and they tend to turn my foot behind my big toe and my ankle to hamburger, I have adapted to just sorels (with an interior felt liner) and my Grivel G-10's.

[BradMT]

I've done it solo in the winter... As others have said, picking your time and not allowing time pressure to push you are the biggies. Mt. Washington isn't a particularly hard climb... pretty straightforward really. First time up, I'd recommend the Boott Spur Link route...

[PeterPan85]

Thank you all, the info has provided some more insight. To shed some light on my plans, etc.... Last winter (Jan 31 2010) I spent a weekend and summited Mt. Marcy. The weather permitted. It was good practice with snowshoes, crampons, ice axe, settin up tent on snow, etc.. I know the odds on Washington are stacked taller against the person. I hope to get to hermit shelter Saturday not long after sunrise and if weather's bad, we (3 with a possible 4th joining on) can wait until Sunday late morning before we abandon our efforts. Again, thanks for all the info and response!

[mweinstone]

carry a flare or three. there light, and usually useless but give a confedence.

[PeterPan85]

One specific question I have is that, in the couple of trip journals I read, no mention was made of snowshoes. I know one of you mentioned them, ad I am assuming they are necessary when first Leavin Pinkham Notch; is this correct? They were invaluable most of the way from adirondack lodge to Marcy in January!

[Old Hillwalker]

First, you are aware that there is no access to the buildings at the summit in the winter?

Second, here is a very well written winter trip report:

http://hikethewhites.com/wash/index.html

Good luck and have a great day up there.

[PeterPan85]

Yes I am very aware of that.

[Slo-go'en]

One specific question I have is that, in the couple of trip journals I read, no mention was made of snowshoes.

Maybe yes, maybe no. The trail from Pinkham is usually packed down as there are a fair number of people going up that way. Therefore, much of the time you don't need them. But even on a well packed trail, snowshoes can make it easier. On popular winter trails I like to use short shoes, as traction is more important then a large surface area. Near and above tree line where the trail gets steep, or the snow is wind packed, snowshoes are no longer practical and you have to switch to crampons.

[PeterPan85]

Thank you Slo. When we hit treelike on Marcy we strapped our snowshoes to our packs and used crampons. It seemed to work well despite high winds. I suspect I'll carry them with me here also.

[Snowleopard]

There's some good info posted above by people with more experience than mine. I'd just like to add that parts of the Lion's Head Trail in winter are often described as technical, so you need crampons that are securely fastened and an ice axe and self arrest skills. The best way to be sure your crampons are secure is to have plastic mountaineering boots. I'm told it is possible to use Sorel type boots or other insulated boots, but you should know what you're doing before trusting boots that may not be stiff enough. I think you can rent plastic mountaineering boots in the area. There have been deaths from falls on the Lion's Head Winter trail in good weather when the trail is icy, so be careful.
Mt. Washington Observatory:
http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/index.php
Avalanche conditions:
http://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/category/avalanche-advisory-for-tuckerman-and-huntington-ravines/
Trip reports and other good info:
http://viewsfromthetop.com/forums/

[PeterPan85]

Thanks Snowleopard. plan on assessing my level of comfort and the terrain often. I have scarpa inverno plastic boots which I think are good for this. Thanks for the links, I've been on the observatory website and it's been insightful.

[Toolshed]

I didn't think to mention snowshoes, as I always either have skis or snowshoes strapped to my pack in winter conditions (or anytime I expect snow at elevation) or between dec 21 and mar 21 in the adirondacks.... :)

[BradMT]

Snowshoes are something to have for sure as it's unwise to rely on others to have packed the trail. However, up to Tuckerman's, it's usually packed. At least it was in the 1970's... likely there's more traffic there now.

[4eyedbuzzard]

Well, you sure wouldn't want to out there on Mt. W (or anywhere above tree line) today unless you had a death wish. I just got back in from Lincoln via the Kancamagus Hwy and it's a white out in some sections going through the mountains. Classic Nor'easter. The east side of the mountain (Tuckerman's / Lion Head / Huntington's) is getting hammered good. 70 - 80 mph winds at the summit right now, -35 wind chill, snow, freezing fog, and all that good mountain $#!t. Winds gusting to 100 mph later today with blowing snow / full white out conditions and -50 wind chills. Nope, not a good day for mountain climbing.

8" of nice fluffy powder blowing around on the ground here in Monroe (only 700' ASL elev) already with more to come later. Time to break out the new snowshoes and take the doggies for a walk when the sun comes up.

[canoehead]

Here's a page that shows Mt Washingtons current weather conditions

http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/conditions.php

[BradMT]

Here's a page that shows Mt Washingtons current weather conditions

http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/conditions.php

A good cam:

http://www.hazecam.net/mtwash.html

[nitewalker]

todays report for mt washington area..
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
5:24 AM
Wind chill warning til noon today then a wind chill advisory in effect til noon Weds...
The strong low from this weekend will continue to exit to the northeast as a ridge of high pressure builds in from the west over the forecast period. A strong pressure gradient between the high and the low will ramp up winds today before decreasing gradually overnight into Wednesday. Winds are expected to continue to increase this morning cresting at an average close to 100 mph with gusts possibly reaching as high as 140 mph. A dry air mass will move in with the high allowing summits to break out of the clouds this morning and remaining mostly clear through tomorrow. Despite being fog free, dense blowing snow may continue to limit visibilities over the forecast period, especially on eastern slopes. Temperatures with the northerly flow will bottom out this morning before making a gradual increase over the remainder of the forecast period. Despite the gradual warming trend, wind chills will still remain low. As a result, a wind chill warning will remain until noon today before downgrading to a wind chill advisory that will remain until noon on Wednesday. So despite the summits looking sunny and pleasant from below, it will continue to be cold very cold, windy, with very deep drifting into tomorrow. And a reminder to look at todays avalanche bulletin as snow and winds from the weekends will continue to impact surrounding ravines. And continue to keep in mind that if an emergency arises, todays high winds and cold temperatures will significantly play into any SAR efforts that may need to be made.
Ryan Knapp
Staff Meteorologist

[PeterPan85]

Hey all,
Thanks again for the advice. My friends and I had a very successful trip this weekend, and made the summit at 0940 Saturday (1/8/11). Due to snowstorm traffic in Connecticut, we were stuck in serious traffic and, although we left central Jersey (Cheesequake rest area) at 6 pm, we didnt arrive at Pinkham until 0330. What good would a nap do at this point? We got our clothing on and gear packed and we were on the trail at 440AM. Only one member of our party of four carried snowshoes, and he never used them. Also, being as how we summited so early, noone of the many people being guided up (as well as those not being guided up like ourselves) were not carrying snowshoes. When the sun started to rise we were on the Lion Head trail and it was amazing. I took many photographs from this point onto the summit. In general, and especially the last two miles, it was more difficult than I had anticipated. The hike was steep and relentless. This was my first time out with double boots and they were heavy but worth it in my opinion. Everything about the trip was amazing: the night hiking up Tuckerman Ravine Trail, Coming over Lion Head, being above the clouds.
Thanks again for all the help.

I can not wait to go back!

I plan on posting some comments about my clothing in the next day or two. I could use some input on layering. Rest well all.

[Bags4266]

Good Job double P!!! How were the views from the top? Wind? Temp?

[PeterPan85]

Wind was minimal 10 to 15 and with windchill no colder than -5ish we made summit at 930 and clouds reached Tuckerman Ravine around 945 so it made for great pictures and views.visibility was very good.

[Joker4ink]

Glad you made it safely!

[Tinker]

You got a couple of nice photos there, PeterPan!
Sounds like you hit the weather just right (for the climb, at least).