View Full Version : I need help with my 2k miler patch!

war cry
08-02-2011, 12:55
If anyone can help me out, I'd appreciate it. I got my 'official' 2k miler package from the ATC a few months ago and found it again last week. I rediscovered the patches they sent me - the standard AT Maine to Georgia circle and a small 2,000 mile rocker. Does anyone know how to apply these? I've never seen a patch with this kind of slick backing before and it makes it tough to sew on... Are these iron on patches? Any help would be appreciated!

Much thanks,
War Cry

08-02-2011, 13:15
Sounds like the kind of patches designed to be ironed on. Many years ago when I was a Scout, I always sewed on patches with strong thread that matched the patch perimeters.

Don't know at what temperature ironing would compromise waterproof fabrics although I'd want to know before attempting it.

The Old Boot
08-02-2011, 13:19
Even if it were an iron on patch, I'd be extremely hesitant to just do the iron on...depending on what you're attaching it to, the bonding may or may not survive any wear and tear or rough use. Laundry does a number on patches that are ironed on.

You could just call the ATC store and ask if it is an iron on patch.

If you're trying to sew in on by hand and having too rough a time of it, an alteration shop can do it up in a jiffy if you don't have a sewing machine of your own. A friend that is into MYOG would be a good bet too!

war cry
08-02-2011, 13:26
Emerald - thanks for confirming my suspicion that it seems to be iron on. I had many of the same concerns about what to apply it to based on what an iron would do to pack fabric, etc.

Old Boot - The alteration shop is a great suggestion. I'm all for MYOG, but I am still an amateur seamster (male seamstress?) and want this to be done well.

War Cry

08-02-2011, 13:59
I'd sew the rocker to the circular patch and use 2 straight pins to hold it in place. Sew it on with what my mother refers to as quilting thread which is heavier and stronger.

You will only need to attach it once if you do the job right the 1st time. To do it well will require some time and patience, but it's good practice.

08-02-2011, 14:37
I've always sewed on patches, even if they were iron on. Eventually the glue wears off, melt in the sun, etc. and what's left isn't always pretty. Sewing will hold up much better to abuse and makes the patch look better by getting the entire edge flush against what ever it is going on.

08-02-2011, 16:08
I think the mastic on the the back, which sounds much like the old scouting patches was there for holding them in place while they were being sewn on and to sort of bond the loose threads on the back. You could iron them to a piece of fabric backing then stitch it to your pack.

Double Wide
08-02-2011, 16:27
Yeah, I agree with Bear. Back in my scouting days, the merit badges had that plastic-y film on the back, which we were told was to enable them to be ironed on. But that only lasted a few months, then they'd fall off. So I would iron them on in place, making sure they were aligned properly, which then made the patches easier to sew on permanently. But a thimble was *definitely* needed. Nowadays, if I have anything like that, I send it to the experts--one of my sisters or nieces who are into sewing.

08-02-2011, 16:30
I do not have these two patches to confirm for sure (I am still 900 miles short), but I have worked with professional embroidery companies for years designing and ordering custom patches. I am nearly certain that what you are referring to is common in the business now and that is a plastic backing and a rolled edge. The plastic backing costs about 5 cents a patch extra when ordering it from the manufacturer and is added to make the patch stiff and rigid, and to keep loose threads from fraying on the back. It is NOT designed for iron-on, though a hot iron will do so, but it will mess up the cloth below, so is not recommended. The "plastic" used is actually similar to "hot glue" and usually has the same opaque look. The rolled edge, compared to the cut-edge border, is tougher to sew through, but, again, makes for a more finished look and protects the edges from fraying.

If you happen to be familiar with Boy Scout patches, the merit badges and rank badges from the 1960's and earlier were cut edge, and the merit badges and rank badges from the 1970's and later, have been rolled edge.

Short answer, no, do not try to iron on, just sew on. It also helps to sew just through the outer edge of the rolled edge. This is easier than trying to pierce through the thick plastic backing.

08-02-2011, 16:43
Not sure of these two patches.. but as a Cub Scout leader I had to affix a bunch of patches on my shirt.. Tried to sew them on myself - failed miserably - I may not be a good seamster. In any case took it to my dry cleaners and they took care of it for about $3.50/patch.. My wife has since bought a good sewing machine.

I also tried this goopy thing that the scout store sells which act like a double sided tape for patches.. don't use it.. doesn't work - at least didn't work for me..

By the way War Cry I had to Google this - but seamster is a correct word for a tailor - learned something new..