Smokies Hike Schedule/Shelter questions

[Daydream Believer]

I'm going to hike the Smokies next month and wanted to run my basic itinerary past folks who know this area before I call in my reservations. I had originally planned to do it in 6 days but the 4th day was going to be LONG...from Mt. Collins Shelter to Peck Shelter which is 15 miles without the .5 miles trip to the shelters. I think now that I'm going to get off at Newfound Gap on Day 4 and get a shower, bed and meal and shuttle back up for the last three days. Also this will be in October with shorter days so I don't want to put in a 16 mile day if I can help it... I'm not super fast but plug along and generally can stay focused and on schedule. I did Winding Stair to Fontana last fall and found it pretty challenging.

Anyway here is my basic plan.

I hope to stay at Standing Bear Hostel after driving in the night before and get a shuttle to Fontana and hike NOBO. I think this first day will be fairly easy but it sets me up for a nicer hike later:

Fontana to Birch Springs Gap Campsite 5.6 miles
Birch Springs Gap to Spence Field Shelter 10.8 miles
Spence to Silers Bald Shelter 11.8 miles
**someone said on another thread that Double Spring Gap is a nicer shelter? Does it make sense to put that extra 1.7 miles for a nicer shelter? It does set me up to have more time to visit on Clingman's Dome the next day...
Silers Bald to Newfound Gap 12.5 miles

**can anyone tell me if the shuttles run through October?

OK last 3 days:

Newfound Gap to Peck Shelter 10.4 miles
Peck Shelter to Cosby Knob 12.9 miles
Cosby Knob to Green Corner Rd/Hostel 10.4 miles

Also, how is the water this Fall? I remember last Fall it was very scarce. I carried a lot of water on my section just south of that and it was a major factor.

Thanks for any feedback.

[pyroman53]

Cosby Knpb and Silers Bald are closed due to bear activity. Maybe substitute Double Spring Gap but I bet that's gunna be a mofo day (13.5). But that sets you up for a nice day into Newfound (10.8).

Note Spence Field was closed last week due to bears and is not closed this week. Maybe things are getting better.

I don't have my data for Newfound No. but I did that last year (I did it sobo) and it seemed like it was mostly downhill to Davenport (yeah I was suckin wind going so.) so big miles are prolly doable. All shelters were decent and water was fine last year first week of Oct. even though it had been somewhat dry until we actually started hiking. Folks coming No. from Fontana experienced trickles of water, but doable. Then it rained and snowed...

After Tropical Storm Lee I can't imagine water will be too hard to find, even by next month but lets see what the locals have to say.

[wornoutboots]

do the dbl springs shelter it's an easy & beautiful 1.7 & a much nice place overall The bears shouldn't be hanging around the shelters too much longer, mast is falling everywhere & food should be plentiful

[Daydream Believer]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll definitely do Double Springs Gap then! Not sure what to do about Cosby Knob Shelter.

[Chaco Taco]

Pecks to Cosby isnt too bad actually. Good place to make up those extra couple of miles. Bears warnings will probably lift in the coming weeks. I would say you should be fine on water. Maybe ask when calling to make reservations and even call Hike Inn and Standing Bear closer as they will have good updates leading into your hike. The thing about the Smokies is that it is such a unique ecosystem and when its dry outside of the park, water could be fine inside or vice versa. Just camel up when you get the chances. Should be a beautiful hike! Enjoy

[RevLee]

We're heading to the Smokies next week. I had planned on staying at Cosby Knob, but since it is closed the ranger suggested campsite 37. It's a couple of miles off the trail, but it still fits in our 6 day plan.

Day 1 Fontana to Mollies Ridge
Day 2 Mollies Ridge to Derrick Knob
Day 3 Derrick Knob to Mt. Collins
Day 4 Mt Collins to Pecks Corner
Day 5 Pecks Corner to Campsite 37
Day 6 Campsite 37 to Standing Bear Farm

[beaudetious]

Here's a water report for the northern section: http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?76942-Water-Report-Clingman-s-Dome-to-Davenport-Gap-(Smokies)

The 5.9 miles from Mt. Cammerer to Davenport Gap is mostly downhill. You can really make some time if you fly down that section. I used my hiking poles well and even hit a 3 mph in a few sections. And I'm typically a 1.5 mph guy.

I just did the northern section in 3 days. My itinerary was:

Day 1: Clingman's Dome to Icewater Spring shelter
Day 2: to Tri-Corner Knob shelter
Day 3: to Standing Bear Farm (and my truck)

The mileage was like 10, 12 and 19
miles. I went and visited the Mt. Cammerer firetower which made my long day 1.2 miles longer.

[Farr Away]

The first 3.7 miles up the AT from Fontana are not a lot of fun. You gain a lot of elevation over a fairly short distance. I've done that section both NOBO & SOBO, and don't plan to ever do it again. I actually almost walked into a bear when I was doing it NOBO; I had my head down and was just putting one foot in front of the other. Unless you're just determined to hike the AT, I'd suggest starting at Twentymile and going up Twentymile Trail. It's longer (5.0 miles), but a nicer trail. IMO.

August was very dry around here, but we've gotten enough rain in the last couple of weeks to make up the 2 1/2 inches we were below average.

Definitely check with the rangers closer to your hike. We've actually had to change our plans on the fly when we found out at the trailhead that a campsite was closed due to bear activity.

[Daydream Believer]

Thanks all. My hike isn't for about a month so hopefully the restrictions will lift. I appreciate the ideas!

[Blissful]

I did Smokies later in October last year on my SOBO. No bear issues at all. In fact, never saw one. I was even at a closed shelter area Mt Collins (didn't know it was closed, no signs up. Had the area to myself). Great time of year to do it, if you can go after peak leaf- less crowds.

[HooKooDooKu]

Thanks all. My hike isn't for about a month so hopefully the restrictions will lift. I appreciate the ideas!
Don't count on it. This has been an unusual year in the Smokies. The forest simply didn't produce as much bear food as it normally does. The bears are having a hard time trying to find enough food to fatten up for the winter. As a result, the bears have become more agressive trying to obtain food.

In a months time, the bears won't have denned yet, they will still be fattening up for winter. Now what is closed today may be open in a month. But from what I'm hearing about the bear activity, it's likely that something open today will be closed in a month.

[JenHikes]

I recommend double checking with the permit office about bear closures. Spence Field has been closed since early August due to aggressive bears for example. We're hiking next weekend and had to start at Cosby Campground, stay at 29, and then SOBO to Newfound Gap just due to the closures. Bears haven't had enough food this year due to drought, so the closures have been long and lengthy. You might have to wait and plan your miles around bear closures.

[liteweight]

Keep checking the closures. They reopened Spence field and mt leconte shelter earlier this week. Its still under warning though.

[Fraser Fir]

while we are on the subject of the smokies. I sectioned hiked through there a few years ago and I am not a big fan of shelters. I stayed at Double springs and cosby only. doing some big miles to reduce the amount of nights in the "bear cages". My question for you: bottom line, regardless if a shelter is full or not, can I pitch tent on the ground next to the shelter(s)? or do I have to sleep in the shelter if it is not half full. I want to take my boys from fontana to Hotsprings and pitch tent each night. Your thoughts???

[Daydream Believer]

Fraser Fir...what I've been told is that technically you are supposed to stay in the shelters. If there is not space, than someone can tent nearby. What I was told by some folks I've talked to is to wait until dusk, quietly set up a tent and sleep in it. Break it down at dawn and no one is likely the wiser. Obviously if you have a ridgerunner at your shelter that night, it might not work. Like you, I'd much rather tent than stay in a shelter barring severe weather.

[HooKooDooKu]

while we are on the subject of the smokies. I sectioned hiked through there a few years ago and I am not a big fan of shelters. I stayed at Double springs and cosby only. doing some big miles to reduce the amount of nights in the "bear cages". My question for you: bottom line, regardless if a shelter is full or not, can I pitch tent on the ground next to the shelter(s)? or do I have to sleep in the shelter if it is not half full. I want to take my boys from fontana to Hotsprings and pitch tent each night. Your thoughts???

While there are a few "bear cages" left, the shelters are slowly getting make-overs and removing the "cages". As I understand it, their have been incidences where people would tant bears while in the "saftey" of the cages. Remove the "cage" and that problem goes away.'

Park camping rules, printed on the back side of offical trail maps, have the words "Using a tent at any shelter is prohibited."

Not printed on these maps are special rules for AT thru hikers. But from what I understand about thru-hiker rules, your hike must Start AND End 50 miles outside of the park. Even then, I believe the thru hiker rules only allow tents when the shelter is full, and then the tent must be pitched in view of the shelter.