View Full Version : Camino de Santiago, anyone?
I'm an AT Class of 2012 dropout. Made it to Deep Gap, NC and pooped out. Major reason was pack weight too heavy and had a hard time with everything but the hiking. I kept thinking how nice it would be to have a sherpa or just hiking hostel to hostel. When I got home, my outfitter was hosting a talk about the Camino de Santiago (if you've seen the Martin Sheen DVD called "The Way", that's it) and it sounds way more my speed. It's about 500 miles, you meet incredible people along the way (just like the AT) and only takes about 5 weeks. No tent, no stove, no 5 days of food, and will try to keep pack weight at 20 pounds (including water and snacks). So, after a transatlantic cruise from New Orleans to Barcelona, trains to near Saint Jean de Port I will probably be starting sometime around the beginning of May. Wondering if any WB's have done the "Way of St. James" or are planning to.
I've seriously considered it. Love Barcelona and the Costa Brava. The food is fabulous!! Was there this Spring.
Watch your stuff in Barcelona as pick pocketing in the train stations is rampant. Encountered a group of 12 thieves workin the crowded station near the Palau Nacional and caught one 16 year old female pickpocket with her hand in my front pocket as I boarded.
Would you mind sharing what online resources you found most helpful in planning your trek? Also, how are you handling your return travel and coordinating ticket purchases? Open ended tickets are outrageous!
I know Skywalker Is doing this trail. Not sur if he plans another book on it.
--Louis
For me, it's the heavy pack that keeps me from doing the long distance hike. That's why I offer a backpack carrying service through my business, Teahorse Hostel, from Bears Den in VA to the PA/MD line (www.teahorsehostel.com) . And just like you, I am also interested in the Camino del Santiago for the very same reasons as you. But I can go only in winter - please let me know how your trip turned out!
Thanks for the warning about pickpockets! That is worriesome. I plan to keep all money and important stuff next to my body and will be looking for Kevlar type material (wish I could convert my Ursack Minor). I understand thieves are relentless, but I won't let it stop me. After I reach the end of the world (Finesterra sp?) I plan to use my eurail pass to work my way back to Italy to visit my brother who lives in Tuscania. I was hoping to find a cruise back to the US from Italy, but so far it looks like I'd have to wait until Nov (cruise boats repositioning--what's up with that?). Will probably have to fly and it won't be cheap. Haven't ruled out hitching a ride on a freighter, but that might not be any cheaper.
Slo-go'en
03-31-2012, 12:42
I personally know several AT thru-hikers who have done the Camino. I don't know a lot about it other then there are several "starting" points so you can make it a short, medium or long walk. It is mostly (or all) road walking and you don't want to do it in the summer, as it can get really hot there.
I belive you can find a number of trip reports over at Trailjournals.
yellowsirocco
03-31-2012, 18:58
I did it in Feb 2011. First off think of "The Way" in a manner that you would think about "Southbounders". The interactions between the characters is not the way it is, but the setting is correct. I only had 30 days as airfare outside of that went from cheap to outrageous. With a 30 day window I started at Burgos so that gave me 21 stages/days of walking. For an AT hiker it is a pleasure cruise; practically no gear and pretty flat. Now in some parts it can get extremely boring like when you are walking through the meseta, but it is a very social journey and those times are when you can enjoy the company of your fellow pilgrims instead of nice vistas. If you like the social aspect of the AT then you will love the Camino. It is also very laid back; no hyper-milers. Most people did around 25km/15miles a day. Be prepared for some road walking and lots of time on the senda (packed dirt path next to the road), it will hurt your feet and get old but you have to remember this is a pilgrimage route and not a wilderness footpath. It is a great trip and I want to do it again some time.
This type of walk is very appealing for the reasons you mentioned. I'd still carry a shelter, even if it's only a poncho tarp.
Thanks for the warning about pickpockets! That is worriesome. I plan to keep all money and important stuff next to my body and will be looking for Kevlar type material (wish I could convert my Ursack Minor).
Having pockets with zippers and/or velcro really helps, but you should still always keep a hand or arm over those pockets, or actually put your hands in your pockets and hold those valuables. If you have a jacket with interior breast pockets, you can put your valuables in there too, but you'll want to keep your jacket zipped up. Unless I'm worried about getting my entire pack stolen, I keep my valuables buried deeply and securely within the confines of my pack. Actually, I wouldn't keep anything in the exterior pockets if at all possible while in the city. You can make shuffling through your pack even more time consuming by using a pack liner and cover.
turtle fast
04-01-2012, 13:43
Better yet, check out Rick Steves website. It has a lot of tips for smart traveling. The most important rule is do not bring anything valuable, apart from your credit cards and passport and camera. I have a rule, bring stuff that if its gets stolen its no big deal. If your stuff gets stolen, then its an excuse to meet the locals and buy something else. I travel with a school sized backpack that limits over packing.
Thanks for some really good tips. I'll check out Rick Steve's page.
Cottontp
04-02-2012, 15:11
ill be going back for my second comino in june 2013. beune camino!!
turtle fast
04-03-2012, 12:05
The Camino is on our list of trails to do. The worry I have now, much like the AT with Bryson's book, is what the movie will do to the popularity of the Camino and the amount of travelers. Will it be a bump like the AT and Bills book, or a large mountain of numerous hikers. The Camino has been receiving more popularity and even here on WB you hear of it, but before it was once in a blue moon. In Barcelona keep your eyes open like mentioned before for pickpockets, Las Ramblas (a main shopping road) is one place especially as you get closer to the Mediterranean side of the end to the west. Be sure to see the Mercado off Las Ramblas where many locals get produce and foodstuffs. They have good ham and very good fresh squeezed orange juice. Barcelona has a ton to see...thus why its popular.
yellowsirocco
04-03-2012, 13:45
The Camino is on our list of trails to do. The worry I have now, much like the AT with Bryson's book, is what the movie will do to the popularity of the Camino and the amount of travelers. Will it be a bump like the AT and Bills book, or a large mountain of numerous hikers. The Camino has been receiving more popularity and even here on WB you hear of it, but before it was once in a blue moon.
I doubt the movie will spike that much extra interest, I don't think it even made it to the theaters at least not in the States anyway. Hape Kerkeling's "I'm Off Then" made a huge impact and brought lots of German speakers. When I was in Triacastela, everyone in the hostel was a native German speaker except me. In general though the popularity has been steadily rising ever since the fascist left power.
Cottontp
04-04-2012, 11:51
"The way" did make it to theaters, it just only made it to a hand full of theaters, and didnt last very long at any of them. and your totally right, there are a bunch of germans that do the camino. but with that being said there are a bunch of koreans, japanese, and other countries that do the hike. This is truely a multi-national hike, where you will break bread with people that dont even speak the same language but are kind enough to share what they have.
yellowsirocco
04-04-2012, 14:56
Funny you mention Koreans. I met 4 of them and heard of another 4 a couple of days ahead; February is apparently their equivalent of our Christmas break. Seeing 8 pilgrims from one country (besides Spain) in the winter is a huge representation; I only saw 5 other Americans (both continents) during my camino.
Johnny Thunder
04-05-2012, 01:26
actually, january/feb/march is the equivalent to summer vacation over here in korea. kids get 2 to 3 weeks off in the summer, too.
I'll be starting at Saint Jean Pied de Port sometime around May 2, so I'm wondering what to expect from the weather. I imagine there will be rain. My outfitter has someone out on the Camino de Santiago right now and last they heard from him last week was it had been very warm, but had started to rain but since it was warm was sort of refreshing. Oh, well. I will just have to wait and see. I will take my rain gear and my new Teva Sky Lake hiking shoes have eVent and I also have some short gaiters with eVent, so I should be able to keep my feet dry and eVent is highly breathable. My main concern is keeping my pack weight low (13 1/2 lbs and then 2 liters water and one day of food and snacks for the day). My pack for the AT was 36+ and it really, really was too heavy (I'm 5'3, 135 lbs).
Cottontp
04-20-2012, 20:11
I'm sure u can get to the pack weight u want. If you've done the AT, u will soon realize how little u actually need to carry. The only food u "need" to carry is lunch/snacks, since u hit so many towns in a day, it is very easy to get something to eat. Unless u plan on only buying your food at a super market. As for water, it's even more forgiving on the Camino, there are plenty of public water sources. I only carried one liter in my camel bag and it was plenty for me, I started with two liters and after a few days realized it was way more then I needed.
RenegadePilgrim
04-25-2012, 06:36
Hey all, I joined WB after returning from my Camino...been tossing the idea of doing the AT at some point, but the Camino keeps calling my name. There are several resources available if you are thinking of doing the Camino. The first is American Pilgrims on the Camino(APOC), the confraternity for the US which supports all things Camino-related, including providing credentials, hospitalero training and other programs. They have a very active Facebook page which is a great place to ask questions. There is also a Camino forum, which I find to be exasperating at times with the snarkiness, but it's a great resource. Both of these can be found easily through a google search.
I walked in 2010, served as a hospitalera in 2011 and will be walking again this year on the Portuguese Route from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions. I also have a blog which I post travel-related stories, and if you go back to April/May 2010 you can find my Camino journal. My blog is my username here...again, can be found through google.
And FWIW, there has been an increase in Americans on the Camino, probably due to "The Way", much like the increase of Koreans because someone wrote about it and the Germans because of Hape Kerkeling's book. I think also because more people are learning about it. I just gave a presentation in Portland, OR to a standing room only crowd of over 60 people at my Catholic parish and will be giving another presentation at Next Adventure in August.
The recommended weight for a Camino pack is 10-15% of your body weight...basically two shortsleeve shirts, one longsleeve shirt, two pairs of pants (or one each of shorts/pants), 2-3 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of underwear, some toiletries, a rain jacket or poncho and a puffy vest. A sun hat for summer is also recommended as it can get HOT. I walked in April/May and encountered snow, so thermal bottoms and some glove liners were also nice, plus a stocking cap to keep my head warm. I also carried snack foods, usually some yogurt, cheese, meat, bread and maybe some fruit or nuts. Some towns are few and far between and I hated not having something to snack on for lunch if I couldn't find a town with a bar open.
As for theivery...it's not that bad on the Camino. Just take usual precautions as you would in the US. Carry your valuables with you in a dry sack into the shower. Barcelona is not on the Camino, so you really don't have to worry unless you are planning to go there, then watch out! :)
Again, if I can answer any specific questions, please let me know.
I walked in 2010, served as a hospitalera in 2011 .
Did your sister join you as a hospitalera in Santo Domingo? I think I may have met you both when I checked into the hostel. :) I was the one trying to get you to make the AT happen and showing off my AT tattoo. :D