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Pringles
04-06-2012, 20:33
I got a new tent and I need to seal the seams. I read in one of Cliff Jacobson's canoeing books that he always used Thompson waterseal on the entire fly, rather than just sealing the seams, and that it worked great. It sounds really easy, so I'm wondering why folks aren't suggesting it. I found some comment online that the Thompson folks may have changed their formula due to some California law. A chemist at work seemed to think that as long as it was water based, it should be ok.

So I'm asking if anyone has used Thompson waterseal on a tent in the last 8-10 years, and if it stuck to a poly-coated nylon tent and didn't delaminate or do anything else that would indicate that using Thompson waterseal wouldn't be a good thing to put on a tent? Thanks.

Pringles

Slo-go'en
04-06-2012, 20:54
Humm, interesting question. I happen to have a can of the stuff handy. Contains petroleuim distillates. Not for use on plastics, asphalt or natrual rubber.

Can be used to waterproof fabric, canvas, tents and tarpaulins, shoes (shoes?) back-packs, bags, ground cloths, etc. May darken certian fabrics - try on inconspicuous test spot first.

Now they don't specificly state nylon, but they don't eliminate it either. So, maybe the thing to do is try in on some similer matterial first and see what happens.

4eyedbuzzard
04-06-2012, 21:28
Maybe he was taliking about one of these other Thompson's products, bu not the stuff you waterproof wood or concrete with.
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/waterproofers/waterseal-sport-seal-protection
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/waterproofers/waterseal-fabric-seal

Pringles
04-06-2012, 21:40
I think Jacobson wrote it in his book back in the 80's, but maybe I'm wrong. Again, I may be wrong, but I don't think they had all of those side products then. Since I want it as a seam sealer, I don't think the spray would be enough to take care of the seams. Again, maybe I'm wrong. I can test it, I was just hoping maybe someone else had. :-)

Pringles--who is probably wrong :-)

Slo-go'en
04-06-2012, 22:59
Your going to have to seal the seams anyway, there's just no getting around that. The stiching holes have to be sealed with something solid - and flexable. Silicon window caucking, thinned with mineral sprits as suggested by SMD worked good for me. Of course, do this out side or in a very well ventulated space.

Pringles
04-07-2012, 07:38
I guess that's what I think the Thompson's is, a premixed silicone-thinner mix. I'm mostly afraid it'll cause delamination.

grayfox
04-07-2012, 10:32
Most new tents will do just fine without any treatment, even of the seams. You don't say what tent you have, but most new designs shed water much better than the old styles did. Catanary cuts of the patterns and better seam placement have improved water shedding and the new nylons and silicon treatments go a long way to produce a tent that is much better in a rain storm, when pitched correctly. If the seams are taped dont seal them until you see the tape lifting or you see an actual leak. Most flys do a good job of channeling water away from the tent and are not much improved by coating them--it just adds weight and may cause other problems with the life of the fabric. Most sealing formulas also make fabric somewhat more flamable--not good!

When we used canvas for most of our gear, Thompson's was a godsend. If is still good for some things--paper maps even. If you see a reduction in water repelence after you use your tent for a while, you can use the spray cans of silicon treatment. Camp Dry is one. Usually you can find them in the shoe dept for about $5. Use a light coat and allow to dry and air completly befor packing.

The seams that usually go first are on the floor and in the corners of the tent, usually caused by pitching too tightly while damp and then shrinking when they dry while set up. If these seams leak coat them with seam sealer that comes in small tubes overlaping the seam about 1/4 inch so waer will not wick into the seam. You can use silicon seam seal for any nylon but only use silicon if you are sealing silnylon.

If you need to seal the floor of your tent, spray the outside with a heavy coat of the spray silicon or this is where you can use Thompson's to good effect. Be sure to seal up the sides of a 'bathtub' design.

grayfox

Wise Old Owl
04-07-2012, 11:15
Probably over kill - If you want to do it fine.... Several tent and tarp manufactures take the thing and set it up at the fire house and point a pressure hose at them and prove that most are bomb proof...As the material gets thinner and lighter - they are saturated on one side with coatings. Seam Seal stops wicking for downpours... check with the manufacture and test in the back yard with a hose.

mutski
04-07-2012, 13:56
I just made a Grand Canyon hike with a friend who recoated the entire floor of his Eureka Solitaire with Thompsons Water Seal for wooden decks and no ill effects. He said it's been totally waterproof since. For seam seals, though, I'd think you'd want something thicker to seal the stitching.