Jack Tarlin
04-04-2005, 15:31
I've now met and talked with over 100 of this year's hikers and have had ample opportunity to discuss the experiences they've had with various stores, businesses, lodging places, and other trail service providers.
Here's what I've heard, in hopes that it is useful to you guys who are about to leave:
*Have heard great things about the Hiker Hostel in Dahlonega and the fine
folks who run it, with one possible caveat, which is that some folks have
apparently been encouraged to slack-pack most or all of Georgia. I think
this is a lousy way to begin a thru-hike for any number of reasons.....you're
gonna be out there for 6 months; looking for ways to cut corners or take it
easy on your first week of the trip sets a bad precedent, in addition to
reducing your interaction with other hikers in campsites, shelters, etc. In
many cases, some of your best friends on the trip will be the folks you meet
from the beginning; if you slackpack for a week and spend the better part of
that week in town, a lot of this interaction will be curtailed. Don't get me
wrong, I've nothing against the occasional slack-pack; I just think slacking
a good chunk of the Trail at the outset is a bad way to begin an extended
backpacking journey. The sooner you get usd to that big lump on your
back, the better off you'll be.
*The staff at Neels Gap, especially Winton and his wife, have been
outstanding this year, which comes as no surprise. The ammount of good
these folks do, and the number of thru-hikes they've saved (mainly by pro-
viding expert gear advice and helping folks lighten their load) cannot be
underestimated. Great place, great folks.
*Helen is Helen. Touristy, pricey, and generally only worth a trip if you're
banged up or the weather has been awful. Otherwise, it's kind of a Kraut
Gatlinburg. Tacky, touristy, expensive.
*Great reports about the staff at the Hiawassee Inn who have apparently
been pulling out the stops for hikers. One caveat: Some folks have
reported a little over-zealousness on the part of the staff in re. to waking
up hikers who want a shuttle ride back to the Trail. Easy solution: If you
don't want an early wake-up call or if you want to sleep a bit and make your own way back to the Trailhead, or if you plan to take a zero rest day,
leave a note on the door. Otherwise, nothing but positive notices about
this place. As far as dining, have heard good things about the Mexican
restaurant, tho most hikers have been pillaging Shoney's, which is a bit
of a walk, but probably provides the most bang for your buck.
*Just about everyone is raving about Ron Haven and his friendliness in
Franklin. This has involved helping out hikers and providing rides and favors
even for hikers who aren't lodging at his motel. I intend to stay there in a
few weeks, and I encourage others to do likewise; it really sounds like this
guy is going out of his way this year to be a friend to the thru-hikers.
*Good reports about the staff and services at the Nantahala Outdoor Center
*Great reports, as always, about Jeff and Nancy at the Hike Inn near Fontana
Dam. And some positive words about the camp store at Fontana Village,
which apparently is a bit better stocked this year. (I'd still send a maildrop
tho!)
*Gatlinburg is Gatlinburg. Very good reports about the Happy Hiker outfitter,
which is no surprise. Most hikers seem to be staying at the Grand Prix motel, just up the road from the Outfitter, tho several have reported that the place directly across the street from the Prix is a bit cheaper.
*Mountain Momma's is about the same. More and more folks seem to be
going to Standing Bear Farm, which I thinkis a good thing. There've been many glowing reports about the friendliness there, and Curtis has apparently upgraded his re-supply stuff . Anyway, this place is HIGHLY recommended.
*Hot Springs report:
Lodging:
Elmer's (Sunnybank Inn) is still the most popular place to stay.
Folks are also enjoying the Duckett House, which in addition to its very
nice rooms inside, has added a small bunkhouse. You can also tent.
The Alpine Motel is also getting its share of folks who want their own place.
The Creekside (behind the Paddler's Pub, is NOT taking folks at present
The Bridge Street Cafe and Inn has several nice rooms available, just
above the restaurant
Other options include the Campground (tenting or cabins) or Springbrook
Cabins.
The Cody House hostel is also open (especially nice if you want to watch TV; last night we saw opening day at Yankee Stadium; tonight's the college basketball champion-ship. For more info about the Cody, which accodates up to six folks, ask at the Outfitter's.
Food:
Patrick and his staff at the Paddler's Pub have been great, tho there've been a few near-incidents. Bring your I.D., don't try and get served if you're
underage, watch your language and boisterousness, and remember that
other hikers will be coming along after you. Also, one drunk hiker managed
to get very ill all over a very nice hostel, so try and keep things reasonably
moderate, both in the Pub and outside of it.
The Diner is still very popular, especially in the mornings. The skillet
breakfast platter is the way to go.
The grill at the campground serves pizza, burgers, fries, and subs, at very
reasonable prices.
There's a sub shop up the hill by the Public library that has been getting
great reports.
Bridge Street Inn and Cafe is getting raves; this is nothing new. Very nice
place to treat yourself to what will probably be your best meal in 270 miles!
Terrific staff, terrific place.
Other services:
Still only 2 pay phones, at Ramseys, and by the Pepsi machine down the
street from the Pub. No cellular service within town.
Laundromat still at Ramsey's; they have change and detergent.
Ramsey's and Ricker's still have limited re-supply options. Outfitter has
improved its already excellent stock and is still THE place to go for
groceries.
Staff at Post Office and Public Library have been great.
The Hot Tubs have been popular, as always.
Shuttles, slacks, etc. available from several sources, especially the Outfitter
Internet service available at library (irregular hours, check on them at Out-
fitters. Outfitter computer available for short-term use, tho it's been
getting slammed by some inconsiderate folks. News for here and elsewhere:
Your writing and keeping an Internet journal DOES NOT entitle you to extra
or unlimited Internet time!! Other folks have friends, families, etc. So keep
this in mind, and don't be a computer hog. (This was seen at Miss Janet's
also, and it's almost always the "journalists" who are the worst offenders.
Watch your dog. I've heard several reports about badly trained dogs,
inconsiderate owners, etc. When your dog starts interfering with the rights
of other folks to enjoy their trip, then the owner needs to either address
the issue or send the dog home.
A few odds and ends:
The folks at Ramsey's have had to several times ask groups of hikers to not
block cars or access to the store, so if there's a bunch of you
congregating around the pay phones, please keep this in mind.
And finally, while I'm admittedly biased as it's owned by friends of mine,
the staff of Bluff Mountain Outfitters, especially co-owners Wayne Crosby
and Dan Gallagher have been outstanding. Along with Neels Gap; Mt.
Rogers in Damascus; and the Outfitter at Harpers Ferry, this is one of the
outstanding outfitters on the entire Trail, and it gets better every year.
If you're thinking of making some major gear changes (esp. new pack, or if
you're switching from a tent to a tarp or hammock, or if you're thinking
about some lighterweight clothes, sleeping bag, etc., ask Wayne. He's
the product buyer as well as the co-owner and he knows his stock cold.
This includes shoes as well; he's also VERY knowledgable about foot-care
products, braces, insoles, etc., so if you're having any problems, track
him down, he'll be happy to help. The prices are very fair, with virtually
everything being sold at manufacturer's suggested retail prices (tho some
stuff is a bit less). They will also pay the shipping on larger purchases, so
this is a good place to pick out lighter weight stuff like clothes or sleeping
bags for further down the trail; the staff will happily send stuff to
Damascus, Pearisburg, or anywhere else. (Incidentally, if you're sending
stuff home, if there's more than three or four pounds of it, it'll probably
be cheaper and faster to use UPS and not the Post Office. The Outfitter
provide boxes, tape, etc. at no charge).
Lastly, don't send UPS packages to the Post Office and don't send
something to the Outfitters that is labeled "General Delivery." This
phrase should only be used on mail sent to U.S. Post Offices.
That's it so far; the above is mostly based on personal interaction/discussions with dozens of this year's hikers and
does not merely reflect my own views.
I hope it proves accurate and useful for you guys who
haven't started out yet.
Oh. And that's a perfect opportunity to express best wishes to you guys who are about to take off. Have a great time and hope to see you down the line somewhere!
Here's what I've heard, in hopes that it is useful to you guys who are about to leave:
*Have heard great things about the Hiker Hostel in Dahlonega and the fine
folks who run it, with one possible caveat, which is that some folks have
apparently been encouraged to slack-pack most or all of Georgia. I think
this is a lousy way to begin a thru-hike for any number of reasons.....you're
gonna be out there for 6 months; looking for ways to cut corners or take it
easy on your first week of the trip sets a bad precedent, in addition to
reducing your interaction with other hikers in campsites, shelters, etc. In
many cases, some of your best friends on the trip will be the folks you meet
from the beginning; if you slackpack for a week and spend the better part of
that week in town, a lot of this interaction will be curtailed. Don't get me
wrong, I've nothing against the occasional slack-pack; I just think slacking
a good chunk of the Trail at the outset is a bad way to begin an extended
backpacking journey. The sooner you get usd to that big lump on your
back, the better off you'll be.
*The staff at Neels Gap, especially Winton and his wife, have been
outstanding this year, which comes as no surprise. The ammount of good
these folks do, and the number of thru-hikes they've saved (mainly by pro-
viding expert gear advice and helping folks lighten their load) cannot be
underestimated. Great place, great folks.
*Helen is Helen. Touristy, pricey, and generally only worth a trip if you're
banged up or the weather has been awful. Otherwise, it's kind of a Kraut
Gatlinburg. Tacky, touristy, expensive.
*Great reports about the staff at the Hiawassee Inn who have apparently
been pulling out the stops for hikers. One caveat: Some folks have
reported a little over-zealousness on the part of the staff in re. to waking
up hikers who want a shuttle ride back to the Trail. Easy solution: If you
don't want an early wake-up call or if you want to sleep a bit and make your own way back to the Trailhead, or if you plan to take a zero rest day,
leave a note on the door. Otherwise, nothing but positive notices about
this place. As far as dining, have heard good things about the Mexican
restaurant, tho most hikers have been pillaging Shoney's, which is a bit
of a walk, but probably provides the most bang for your buck.
*Just about everyone is raving about Ron Haven and his friendliness in
Franklin. This has involved helping out hikers and providing rides and favors
even for hikers who aren't lodging at his motel. I intend to stay there in a
few weeks, and I encourage others to do likewise; it really sounds like this
guy is going out of his way this year to be a friend to the thru-hikers.
*Good reports about the staff and services at the Nantahala Outdoor Center
*Great reports, as always, about Jeff and Nancy at the Hike Inn near Fontana
Dam. And some positive words about the camp store at Fontana Village,
which apparently is a bit better stocked this year. (I'd still send a maildrop
tho!)
*Gatlinburg is Gatlinburg. Very good reports about the Happy Hiker outfitter,
which is no surprise. Most hikers seem to be staying at the Grand Prix motel, just up the road from the Outfitter, tho several have reported that the place directly across the street from the Prix is a bit cheaper.
*Mountain Momma's is about the same. More and more folks seem to be
going to Standing Bear Farm, which I thinkis a good thing. There've been many glowing reports about the friendliness there, and Curtis has apparently upgraded his re-supply stuff . Anyway, this place is HIGHLY recommended.
*Hot Springs report:
Lodging:
Elmer's (Sunnybank Inn) is still the most popular place to stay.
Folks are also enjoying the Duckett House, which in addition to its very
nice rooms inside, has added a small bunkhouse. You can also tent.
The Alpine Motel is also getting its share of folks who want their own place.
The Creekside (behind the Paddler's Pub, is NOT taking folks at present
The Bridge Street Cafe and Inn has several nice rooms available, just
above the restaurant
Other options include the Campground (tenting or cabins) or Springbrook
Cabins.
The Cody House hostel is also open (especially nice if you want to watch TV; last night we saw opening day at Yankee Stadium; tonight's the college basketball champion-ship. For more info about the Cody, which accodates up to six folks, ask at the Outfitter's.
Food:
Patrick and his staff at the Paddler's Pub have been great, tho there've been a few near-incidents. Bring your I.D., don't try and get served if you're
underage, watch your language and boisterousness, and remember that
other hikers will be coming along after you. Also, one drunk hiker managed
to get very ill all over a very nice hostel, so try and keep things reasonably
moderate, both in the Pub and outside of it.
The Diner is still very popular, especially in the mornings. The skillet
breakfast platter is the way to go.
The grill at the campground serves pizza, burgers, fries, and subs, at very
reasonable prices.
There's a sub shop up the hill by the Public library that has been getting
great reports.
Bridge Street Inn and Cafe is getting raves; this is nothing new. Very nice
place to treat yourself to what will probably be your best meal in 270 miles!
Terrific staff, terrific place.
Other services:
Still only 2 pay phones, at Ramseys, and by the Pepsi machine down the
street from the Pub. No cellular service within town.
Laundromat still at Ramsey's; they have change and detergent.
Ramsey's and Ricker's still have limited re-supply options. Outfitter has
improved its already excellent stock and is still THE place to go for
groceries.
Staff at Post Office and Public Library have been great.
The Hot Tubs have been popular, as always.
Shuttles, slacks, etc. available from several sources, especially the Outfitter
Internet service available at library (irregular hours, check on them at Out-
fitters. Outfitter computer available for short-term use, tho it's been
getting slammed by some inconsiderate folks. News for here and elsewhere:
Your writing and keeping an Internet journal DOES NOT entitle you to extra
or unlimited Internet time!! Other folks have friends, families, etc. So keep
this in mind, and don't be a computer hog. (This was seen at Miss Janet's
also, and it's almost always the "journalists" who are the worst offenders.
Watch your dog. I've heard several reports about badly trained dogs,
inconsiderate owners, etc. When your dog starts interfering with the rights
of other folks to enjoy their trip, then the owner needs to either address
the issue or send the dog home.
A few odds and ends:
The folks at Ramsey's have had to several times ask groups of hikers to not
block cars or access to the store, so if there's a bunch of you
congregating around the pay phones, please keep this in mind.
And finally, while I'm admittedly biased as it's owned by friends of mine,
the staff of Bluff Mountain Outfitters, especially co-owners Wayne Crosby
and Dan Gallagher have been outstanding. Along with Neels Gap; Mt.
Rogers in Damascus; and the Outfitter at Harpers Ferry, this is one of the
outstanding outfitters on the entire Trail, and it gets better every year.
If you're thinking of making some major gear changes (esp. new pack, or if
you're switching from a tent to a tarp or hammock, or if you're thinking
about some lighterweight clothes, sleeping bag, etc., ask Wayne. He's
the product buyer as well as the co-owner and he knows his stock cold.
This includes shoes as well; he's also VERY knowledgable about foot-care
products, braces, insoles, etc., so if you're having any problems, track
him down, he'll be happy to help. The prices are very fair, with virtually
everything being sold at manufacturer's suggested retail prices (tho some
stuff is a bit less). They will also pay the shipping on larger purchases, so
this is a good place to pick out lighter weight stuff like clothes or sleeping
bags for further down the trail; the staff will happily send stuff to
Damascus, Pearisburg, or anywhere else. (Incidentally, if you're sending
stuff home, if there's more than three or four pounds of it, it'll probably
be cheaper and faster to use UPS and not the Post Office. The Outfitter
provide boxes, tape, etc. at no charge).
Lastly, don't send UPS packages to the Post Office and don't send
something to the Outfitters that is labeled "General Delivery." This
phrase should only be used on mail sent to U.S. Post Offices.
That's it so far; the above is mostly based on personal interaction/discussions with dozens of this year's hikers and
does not merely reflect my own views.
I hope it proves accurate and useful for you guys who
haven't started out yet.
Oh. And that's a perfect opportunity to express best wishes to you guys who are about to take off. Have a great time and hope to see you down the line somewhere!