Scot seeks advice

[The Keltic Fringe]

Hello everyone - I'm a forum newbie and in the early stages of planning a holiday. My wife and I walk in Scotland and have done several 'wild camping' overnights, although never a long distance trail. In Scotland we love the scenery, the solitude, the challenge and the excitement of seeing new things.

We're considering whether to do a long distance walk in USA, which would be our first, and I have a number of questions (some may seem daft, but I am a genuine seeker of knowledge, so please treat me gently).

1) We only have max 2 weeks' holiday. We could fly into any of the US East coast gateway cities (Boston, NYC, Washington, Atlanta etc) from Glasgow. Which bit of the AT would give us the best bang for the buck for maybe 8-10 days' walking?
2) Related to this, when is the best time of year? I've read that people walk North, in general, and start in the spring, but we aren't intending to do the whole trail and are pretty flexible with regard to dates.
3) We plan to camp, interspersed with cheap hotels/bunk-house accommodation. Is this practical? Are there designated campsites or is it wild camping?
4) Scotland's most aggressive wild creature is the rabbit - we are responsible and sensible, but how serious is the issue of wildlife encounters on the trail or when camping? We lack any American bushcraft in this respect.
5) We are fit and accustomed to walking, but we're not approaching this as a race or physical challenge, we want to go at a leisurely pace. Given the terrain what would you think is a reasonable daily distance for the sake of planning the itinerary?

Basically any advice, guidance or anecdotes will be helpful.

It may be (perish the thought!) that you feel the AT is not for us - in which case are there other trails you'd suggest, particularly on the East?

I hope it isn't against forum etiquette, but I've posted links here to FB (http://www.facebook.com/ian.wilson.940) and Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/keltic) - sometimes it helps to get a little more acquainted when trying to answer questions.

And in any case, thanks for your time and hopefully your response.

yours aye

The Keltic Fringe

[Old Hillwalker]

Hello, I will be travelling to Scotland to continue my Munro Bagging on September 11th. Arriving in Glasgow on the 11th and travelling by bus/rail to Kinlochewe/Achnasheen for a 12 day stay at the Kinlochewe Hotel. I would be pleased to meet with you and discuss your trip. I could bring a copy of the "AT Through-Hiker Companion" and maps of the AT if you want to meet.

I have backpacked from Fort William to Cape Wrath (2009), the West Highland Way twice (2009 & 2011) and the Great Glen Way in 2011. Also, most of the Appalachian Trail over the past 30 years. I live less than an hour away from the AT in maine. If you are planning a late season walk, I would recommend flying into Boston, taking a bus into Maine or New Hampshire and hiking one of our sections of the AT. You will have a choice of moderate to difficult hiking, and usually very fine weather with minumum insects. Our most aggravating and serious biting insect is the Black Fly (Simulium venustum). They are either gone, or at a minimum in August and September, and completely gone after the first frost.

The White Mountains of New Hampshire possess extensive Alpine areas, above tree line, and offer spectacular hiking, but can be moderately strenuous with very little to no wild camping available. However if you want remote woodland hiking with some pretty good mountains and wild camping or well spaced lean-tos, then I would suggest starting at Baxter State Park (Mt Katahdin) and hiking south though the hundred mile wilderness (in name only).

If you plan on taking your holiday when I am home in Maine, I would be glad to accomodate you and offer transport as a way of repaying all the wonderful generosity I have experianced during my frequent trips to the Highlands


Tom Wheeler

[Hairbear]

like your style old hill walker

[generoll]

Atlanta has good air connections and multiple shuttle opportunities. From Springer Mountain to the Nantahala Outdoor Center is about 140 miles. The pick up point for Franklin, NC is about 110 miles so either of those points might be within a two week hike. The Hiker Hostel has the best deal for being picked up in Atlanta and taken to an overnight accomodation and then on to the trail. Survivor Dave is a sponsor for this site and does shuttles from Atlanta directly to Springer. You can get back to the Atlanta airport via a oneway car rental from Franklin, NC or be shuttled from the NOC.

[generoll]

guess I missed some of your questions. Let me continue. I'd suggest an April start if you begin in Georgia. Most of the severe cold will be in the past (no guarantees) and the heat hasn't started and the trees usually aren't fully leafed out so the views are better. Depending on the weather the foliage may have begun to bloom so the flora might be interested. As far as the fauna is concerned, the black bears will steal your food if not properly hung. Some suggest sleeping with your food, but in areas heavily visited by omnivores I'm not sure I'd suggest that. There are shelters which are usually sited close to water, but basically you can camp where you please. There is a hostel at Neels Gap (mile 30), the Blueberry Patch near Dicks Creek Gap, (mile 66), and then motels with shuttles available from Unicoi Gap (mile 50) and Dicks Creek Gap (mile 66) with a shuttle ride into Franklin, NC to motels and a town shuttle from Winding Stair Gap (mile 110) and then a hostel at the NOC which you walk right into. There are also road crossings which provide bail out points in case of injury or inclement weather all along this route.

enjoy.

[moldy]

I think that the Appalachian Trail is a great choice for you.
1. Bang for the buck, I would choose a flight to Washington DC, then a short train trip to the Appalachian Trail at Harpers Ferry WV. After a nights rest is a hiker hostel, head South through the Shannondoah National Park. If you end up being fast hikers you may end your hike in Glasgow! Glasgow Virginia that is. This area was first settled by your ancestors 350 years ago.

2. I would make this trip to start hiking on a Monday in early to mid October. No bugs, no heat, no snakes. The trees are ablaze with color and the views are excellent. While it's true that this National Park will have many other visitors the Appalachian Trail is not so overcrowded to detract very much from your enjoyment.

3. In this section you will have great choices for a place to sleep, Hostels, free shelters and both developed and wild campsites.

4. During this section you will encounter several "Ursis Americanas" the North American black bear. You won't have to fight one if you use all the posted precautions.

5. This section of the trail has no great climbs and minimal physical.

[Double Wide]

I really like Moldy's suggestion about Southbound from Harper's Ferry. Beautiful fall colors and a well-maintained trail. And I wouldn't worry too much about the bears. They prefer to snack on us chunky Americans. We taste more like bacon. :eek: Besides, they haven't yet acquired a taste for Scottish food.

Also, since Shenandoah National Park is protected wildlife sanctuary, you will see lots of deer and such up close. And yeah, probably a black bear or two.

[Nutbrown]

My vote is for Shanendoah also. You won't throw a heart attack on the climbs, but will get a good workout. Fabulous area in the fall.

[brian039]

I'd take Old Hillwalker up on his offer, it doesn't get any better than New Hampshire or Maine in August/September.

[Odd Man Out]

1) As mentioned already, favorite parts are the northern states (VT, NH, ME) and the south (GA, NC, TN, VA). The best airports for these would be Boston if going north or DC or Atlanta, if hiking south. What you didn't mention is what kind of transportation you would arrange after that. If you are not renting a car you would have to rely on public transportation or hired shuttles. Here the options are much slimmer. As mentioned, one of the few options for getting to the trail by public transport is Wash DC to Harpers Ferry. But then at the end of your hike you will need to arrange for transportation back to the city. The logistics here could be trickier. You could

2) If selecting the north, then late summer is advised. Winter weather comes early to the north east mountains, and in the spring, the mud and bugs are bad. Down south, summer is hot so spring and fall are better. The fall colors are amazing if you time it right. I'm not sure if there is any place in the world with fall colors quite like the Appalachian Mountains.

3) What you described is pretty much exactly what most thru hikers do. Wild camping (sometimes called stealth or dispersed camping) is available most everywhere south of Harpers Ferry. There are more restrictions north of there. There are numerous cheap hotels/hostels along the way (usually not right on the trail, but close by) that cater to hikers. You will hear much about the shelters on the AT (about every 10 km or so). These are very rustic structures (often not much more than a wooden platform with a roof and a couple of walls). They tend to be where the hikers congregate and complain about how bad the shelters are. You can sleep in the shelter (first come-first served), or tent near the shelter, or hike away from the shelter to get away from the crowds. You choose.

4) I hope it's not that killer rabbit from Monty Python and the Holy Grail (Bring out the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch). Here we just have harmless bears and snakes. The fact that most Americans are unnecessarily afraid of bears and snakes only proves that most Americans are also completely lacking in American bushcraft, so you will be in good company.

5) Miles per day for planning is a very tough number to nail down it depends so much on the terain and your abilities and the weather, etc.. But I appreciate that given your travel complications, it might be necessary to hike to a schedule. If you are in good shape, 10 to 15 miles a day would be a number to start with.

[English Stu]

Hi Brian,I have done three section hikes from the UK and I think the low season for flights begins 22nd Aug. I think the Shenandoas will be fine and am planning a similar trip myself. I have flown to DC and took the train to Harpers Ferry and you will find it an interesting town. I went north that time. I do think the AT is the best trail for hiking society and opportunities to see US life in the trail towns. Look on the Trail Conservancy site for more information and get a data book which will of great interest and tell you the miles between shelters (sometimes not many), where to resupply and where water is to be found. I have hiked 1000 miles plus and seen only two bears.You might get frightened by turkeys flying up in front of you, rather like the Scottish grouse but a lot bigger.

A more scenic trail is the John Muir Trail in the Sierras but that is on the west coast and needs more than two weeks, perhaps another time.

[atraildreamer]

4) Scotland's most aggressive wild creature is the rabbit - we are responsible and sensible, but how serious is the issue of wildlife encounters on the trail or when camping?

Watch out for the giant trail rabbits that live near the AT! :eek:

Is it safe to assume that you will be hiking in a kilt? There has been much discussion here at WB about the pros and cons of wearing one on a hike! :-?

Enjoy your visit and your hike! :welcome:banana

[AzWildflower]

I would love to do a long walk in Scotland. Jumping cacti, scorpions and rattlers are getting to be a bit boring for me. We have wee rabbits here in Arizona too. Not so scary.

Spice up your life and experience our Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Bears included, no charge. I was in the park during the Fall of 1971. The Fall colors were stunning.

[fiddlehead]

My suggestion is to fly into Boston and get a bus to Gorham NH and head north on the AT into Maine.
Maine is a beautiful state, and more like where you come from.
Or fly into Portland Maine (closer) or Bangor.
You won't regret this hike and early Sept is the best time for a hike there.

[TJ aka Teej]

see above ^
Maine in September. You'll be hiking with northbound thru-hikers finishing the AT. From Boston, fly to Bangor, shuttle to Monson, hike the 100 Mile Wilderness (Moose, deer, and bears if you're lucky) and summit Baxter Peak. The AT lodge will pick you up after your climb, and get you back to Bangor.

[The Keltic Fringe]

Crikey - fantastic responses and thanks for so much advice! Time to get serious then! Mrs Fringe says she's up for this (she had the potential to kick the whole thing into the long grass). I'll get the maps out and look at the bank balance.

Old Timer - I'd love to meet for a dram and a yarn - I'll PM you nearer the time of your visit to Scotland, so we can set up a time and place.

Everyone else - thank you very much! - great suggestions, an insight into bear risk (seems 'low' as long as you're no daft), hints regarding itinerary and seasons.

I'm keen to hear more, so don't hesitate if there's other stuff to be told, and I'll post as our plans become more concrete and see what you think of them.

Thanks again
TKF

[The Keltic Fringe]

Ooops - I think that should be 'Old Hillwalker' - does anyone else get names a little confused on first acquaintance? Apologies!

[English Stu]

My last section was the 100 mile wilderness starting near Caratunk which for real scale is great (although can be mud and roots early on) but you do need some fitness and experience.I flew to Bangor via Philadelphia (I do have a friend near Bangor) but Boston would work as well. If you do that get the experience of the White House Landing. I also resupplied there, so I didn't have to carry loads of food. I did this when the thru hikers were finishing so lots of shelter tales but they are mostly able to move fast now.

[fins1838]

Moldys suggestion is the best IMO. Also, if possible, fly into BWI. Just as close to Harpers Ferry & alot less hassle. If you choose this I could offer you transportation out & back. Also if needed overnight accommodations at my place. I'm 10 minutes from BWI & my wife & I have a large home.

[generoll]

check out this link

http://www.gmhg.org/

[1azarus]

... i am always proud of us when we are helpful!!! I think everyone has given you great advice. I do think that the decision maker is to discuss where the two of you fall on the continuum from need for physical challenge and dramatic beauty (represented by Maine and New Hampshire) against relatively easy walking and "pretty country" (represented by Virginia.) Both are wonderful hikes. The Virginia hike is probably more of a guaranteed success... the Maine hike is a reach. If you only have a few "wild camping" nights, the Virginia hike is the safer option...unless it is grand adventure you are seeking! I hope you have a wonderful time!

[futureatwalker]

Hi Keltic,


In Scotland we love the scenery, the solitude, the challenge and the excitement of seeing new things.

1) We only have max 2 weeks' holiday. We could fly into any of the US East coast gateway cities (Boston, NYC, Washington, Atlanta etc) from Glasgow. Which bit of the AT would give us the best bang for the buck for maybe 8-10 days' walking?
2) Related to this, when is the best time of year? I've read that people walk North, in general, and start in the spring, but we aren't intending to do the whole trail and are pretty flexible with regard to dates.
3) We plan to camp, interspersed with cheap hotels/bunk-house accommodation. Is this practical? Are there designated campsites or is it wild camping?
4) Scotland's most aggressive wild creature is the rabbit - we are responsible and sensible, but how serious is the issue of wildlife encounters on the trail or when camping? We lack any American bushcraft in this respect.
5) We are fit and accustomed to walking, but we're not approaching this as a race or physical challenge, we want to go at a leisurely pace. Given the terrain what would you think is a reasonable daily distance for the sake of planning the itinerary?



1) I would go to the south if you are thinking of spring, or the north if you are thinking of fall. In the summer it will be hot, relative to what your are used to.

2) Wild camping is easy. You'll find many spots alongside the trail. Bunkhouse and hotels are inexpensive. For the most part, you will be in trees all day long.

3) You want to be aware of bears and snakes. You probably don't want to have food in your tent in Georgia or New Jersey, and probably elsewhere. For snakes, you just want to keep have an eye on where you are stepping, and don't put your hand anywhere you can't see (i.e., reach under a rock or log).

4) For a leisurely pace, I'd suggest 8-10 miles, depending on the terrain and your fitness.

5) For carbohydrates, do check out IHOP or Dennys for an American breakfast. You can burn off the calories on the trail.

Have a great hike!

[The Keltic Fringe]

Thanks again everyone - very appreciative of all the advice, offers of assistance and even places to stay. You are a kind lot :)

You have spurred Mrs Fringe and me on to set a date - which seems far away but is practical in terms of other commitments and money - being September or October 2013. Plenty of time to research and armchair travel between then and now, and I'll keep an eye on things here.

At least one of your number is planning on visiting Scotland I know, so give me a shout if you find yourself in my vicinity or even thinking about a visit. I'd be happy to help - either with Mountain Biking or with walking.

TKF

[BobTheBuilder]

Good choice on September or October - if you can manage to choose a section where the leaves have changed colors but not fallen from the trees yet, the beauty can bring tears to your eyes. The peak foliage colors at any one point along the AT only last a week or two, and the timing of the foliage colors can vary, depending on the various weather patterns in the summer and fall, but if you do a little research you might pull it off.

I have to admit, you made a friend when you mentioned "American bushcraft" in your post. I don't know if I possess any, but at least I have a great name for it now. Good luck on your hike.

[atraildreamer]

We'll be watching for you! :D:banana16366

[FarmerChef]

+1 for Harper's Ferry to Shenandoah National Park in October. Just last year, I hiked it in late October and early November and the colors were stunning. The terrain as others have pointed out is moderate compared to other portions of the trail and there is ready access to hostels and hotels/inns/Bed and Breakfasts all long this section. So you can wild camp as much as you want or duck into a hostel or hotel if the weather gets nasty or you just need a relaxing break. I would highly recommend Bear's Den Hostel in VA and the Blackburn Trail Center in West Virginia. In Shenandoah National Park you could also stay at Skyland Resort or one of the campgrounds, though some are closed by that time of the year. Check early if you think you might be interested as reservations can fill up well in advance.

Whatever you choose, I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time. My wife and I are interested in coming to your neck of the woods to hike next year. So you might hear from us looking for a bit of advice on a great trail to do in a week over there.

Best of luck.

[juma]

stratton maine and south for as long as you can stand it ...

[SassyWindsor]

Maine will do.