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View Full Version : Route suggestions for 3day/2nights in Smokies



MeredithS79
08-18-2012, 09:43
I'm looking for route suggestions for 3day/2nights in the Smokies. It can be a loop or one way (will have 2 cars). Trip will be 1st or 2nd weekend of Oct and we are looking for some views. Last year we did Carvers Gap to 19E and that was a good distance for us (about 5-7 miles a day). We're not tied to the AT, just looking for someone with experience in the area to give a few helpful hints. Thanks!

HooKooDooKu
08-19-2012, 23:09
I've spend the last 10+ years studying and doing 2 night hikes in the Smokies.

Of all the hikes I've done, my personal favorites have been the ones that included a trip to Gregory Bald. There are three ways a two night loop with Gregory Bald can be accomplished.

1. (Easiest) Drive down Parson's branch road and park at the trail head for Gregory Bald Trail. Hike back down Parson's Branch Road to the Gregory Ridge trail head and hike up to #12. 2nd day, hike from #12 to Sheep Pen's gap (#13). Don't forget to visit Moore Spring to collect water (otherwise, you have to hike down Gregory Bald trail 1/4 mile from #13 to get water). Follow the trail pointed to by the carving "H2O" on the sign at Rich Gap (intersection of Gregory Ridge and Gregory Bald. From the spring, make your way up the hill side (even if you have to bush-whack if you can't find the trial) and you'll find Gregory Bald trail soon enough. Hike back to your car down Gregory Bald Trail the 3rd day. Currently, Parson's Branch Road is closed due to damage from the July storms... so you would have to keep a watch to see if the road gets re-openned to attempt this easiest of Gregory Bald loops.

2. Twenty Mile Ranger Station up Long Hungary Ridge, staying at #92. Again, stop by Moore Spring to water-up and on to #13 for the 2nd day. Return to Twenty Mile Ranger Station via Wolf Ridge.

3. (Most difficult of the 3) Twenty Mile Ranger Station up Twenty Mile trail to #113... stopping by Shuckstack Fire Tower at the intersection of the AT. Up the AT to Doe Knob and Gregory Bald Trail to #13 (again, plan a stop at Moore Spring). Return to Twenty Mile via Wolf Ridge.

The third hike gives you two chances for views if you are willing to climb the fire tower.


Another hike with a few good views along the AT is to hike from Clingman's Dome to Goshen Prong staying at #23 the 1st night. For the 2nd night, hike on down the trail and turn right at Little River Trail and stay at #30 (#24 for less distance). Then hike out to Elkmont.

Another hike I would suspect has good views but includes the STEEP Baxter Creek trail is to do a loop from Big Creek to #36 and then to #38. I've yet to do this particular loop, but from what I understand, #38 can be very cold (I think this is the highest camp site in GSMNP exluding shelters).

Another 2 nighter with two cars would be a hike to Mount LeConte, staying at the LeConte Shelter and the Ice Water Spring shelter. Park at New Found Gap and hike the 3 miles to Ice Water. 2nd day, hike the 6 miles to LeConte. 3rd day, hike down the moutain to the 2nd car at Alum Cave Trail head (shortest) or the trail heads for Rainbow, Bullhead, or Trillium.

I've done other 2 night hikes but they didn't include any places that had great views like you can get along the AT and Gregory Bald.

There are several other 2 night loops I can think of, but they don't include many views.

T-Rx
08-20-2012, 09:28
Did the twenty mile loop this summer (#2 in you post HooKooDooKu). Great hike, plenty of water and sunset on Gregory Bald was awesome. I would highly recommend this hike for someone looking for a 2 night / 3 day hike.

MeredithS79
09-04-2012, 12:10
Awesome, thanks for the suggestions. I think we're going to do the Twenty mile loop (option #3)...the difficult one, of course! We want to see those two views. Do you recommend doing the loop clockwise or counter clockwise?

Tabasco
09-04-2012, 13:55
Lakeshore Trail. From Road to Nowhere to Fontana dam.

HooKooDooKu
09-04-2012, 14:32
I would do #3 counter-clockwise if for no other reason than because you should be able to get to Sheep Pen Gap (Camp site #13) earlier in the day and therefore have a greater opportunity to pick your camp site (#13 will be much more popular than #113).

Twentymile Ranger Station is at an elevation of about 1325'
Gregory Bald is at an elevation of about 4950' (with Sheep Pen Gap about 300' lower)
Campsite #113 along the AT is at an elevation of about 3775'

Twentymile Ranger Station and Sheep Pen Gap (#13) are about 7 miles apart.
Twentymile Ranger Station and Campsite #113 on the AT are about 5.5 miles apart.
Campsite #113 on the AT and Sheep Pen Gap (#13) are about 5 miles apart.

So your approach day to Sheep Pen Gap can either be a 7 mile 3325' climb clockwise, or a 5 mile 1175' climb counter-clockwise(there will actually be a little bit more than that as there are some ups-n-downs along the AT and from Doe Knob to Rich Gap).

I can also say that I have come to loath Wolf Ridge Trail because the trail seems to go on F O R E V E R ... and that's going down hill. I can't imagine how long it would seem going up hill.

Gray Blazer
09-04-2012, 14:40
I've spend the last 10+ years studying and doing 2 night hikes in the Smokies.


Another hike I would suspect has good views but includes the STEEP Baxter Creek trail is to do a loop from Big Creek to #36 and then to #38. I've yet to do this particular loop, but from what I understand, #38 can be very cold (I think this is the highest camp site in GSMNP exluding shelters).



The fall views from Mt Sterling Tower (if it's still standing) can't be beat.

HooKooDooKu
09-04-2012, 14:51
Lakeshore Trail. From Road to Nowhere to Fontana dam.

My issues with this hike are the distances involved and the setup.

Distance:
By the trail map, this hike is 33.5 miles. The spacing of the campsites are such that at least one day would have to be more than the 11+ mile "average" per day.

Setup:
Most of the roads between Bryson City and Fontana dam two lane roads, with the two being at least an hour apart. Then there is the road-to-know-where itself. There is only one hotel in the area of Fontana (not cheap... but not expensive either). So depending upon your approach to the area, you could spend as much as 4 hours just prepositioning cars to start the hike (then you've still got a long hike to start the day... unless you want a REALLY long hike the 2nd day).

You also won't get any moutain top views... but you would get to hike through a tunnel (located at the end of the road-to-nowhere).

HooKooDooKu
09-04-2012, 16:06
The fall views from Mt Sterling Tower (if it's still standing) can't be beat.
Dang, I wish you wouldn't have said that. I normally try to do a hike with my son over the Christopher Columbus holiday in October. That would be the perfect time to try to go do this hike... but they changed the school schedule this year. Some crap where the legislator forced the schools to start the school year later thinking that would extend the tourist season at the beaches and the state would get more revenue. End result is the kids won't be getting CC off anymore.

HooKooDooKu
09-04-2012, 16:34
Awesome, thanks for the suggestions. I think we're going to do the Twenty mile loop (option #3)...the difficult one, of course! We want to see those two views. Do you recommend doing the loop clockwise or counter clockwise?

One of the other cool things about doing this hike CC... when you get to Gregory Bald, you can look South from the Bald and see Shuckstack tower. You will be able to say "Wow!, look where we were yesterday" rather than "Oh gees... look how far we have to hike tomorrow".


Oh, there is one other benefit to hiking this trail CC (implied earlier, but let me make it obvious). If you hike clockwise, water for #13 will have to be obtained by hiking either 1/4 mile down Gregory Bald trail, or 1/4 to 1/2 mile to Moore Spring on the other side of Gregory Bald. But if you are hiking counter-clockwise, you can stop by Moore Spring on the way to Gregory Bald to fill your water for #13. Just plan on eating lunch at the spring, and once you're finished with lunch, fill your water for #13 for the evening. If you say "but I want to eat lunch at the Bald with the views"? Go on to campsite #13 and setup camp, then that evening, hike back up to the bald and make/have dinner with your view. Yea, that still makes for an "extra" 1/4 mile hike... but at least your "extra" hike is back to a view... not to a mud-hole to get water.

The Solemates
09-05-2012, 12:35
top places to hit for a two nighter in the smokies would be (in no particular order):

mount leconte
charlies bunion
gregory bald
mt cammerer fire tower
clingmans dome

cant go wrong with any loop incorporating these highlights.

HooKooDooKu
09-06-2012, 15:47
top places to hit for a two nighter in the smokies would be...
With two cars, Mount LeConte has lots of routes to choose from. But to make it a two nighter, you would almost HAVE to start or end at New Found Gap, with Ice Water Spring shelter being the other stop. My personal recommendation for 2 nights to LeConte would be to start at New Found Gap and hike to Ice Water Spring shelter (some nice views along that trail alone). You can also include Charlies Bunion the 1st day at it is only 1 mile beyond Ice Water Spring (total of 5 miles for the 1st day). The 2nd day, hike up Boulivard, and plan to take the unmarked (on maps) side trip to "The Jump Off". The trail for the Jump Off is about 1/10 of a mile up the Boulevard and is about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile round-trip out to the view and back. With the Jump Off, your second day mileage would be around 6.5 miles. The third day, hike down Alum Cave Trail. Not only is it considered the prettiest trail by many (with some views, Alum Cave Bluff, and Arch Rock to see), but it is also the closest to New Found Gap making the positioning of multiple cars very easy. Mileage the 2nd day would be about 5.5 miles.

The only things I see (or have done) with Clingman's Dome would be to either start at New Found Gap, hike to Mount Collins the 1st night (less than 5 miles) and then by Clingman's Dome and out to Double Spring Gap, then back to Clingman's Dome parking lot, or start at Clingman's Dome and hike to Goshen Prong (currently closed from the recent bad weather) staying at #23. Then hike to #30 for the 2nd night. Don't know what the views between New Found Gap and Clingman's would be (haven't hiked that yet), but there are a couple of great views between Clingman's and Goshen Prong.

I haven't hiked the trails around Mt Cammerer yet, but I've never found a 2 night hike that included hiking by Mt Cammerer Fire Tower I've found appealing yet. I nice two night hike I've done in that area of the park was a two night loop starting at Cosby and staying at #34 and #29. While the hike was nice, there were not any great views along the way (you would do better with something including Gregory Bald, Mt. LeConte, or Mount Sterling I think).

johnnybgood
09-06-2012, 21:18
I haven't hiked the trails around Mt Cammerer yet, but I've never found a 2 night hike that included hiking by Mt Cammerer Fire Tower I've found appealing yet. I nice two night hike I've done in that area of the park was a two night loop starting at Cosby and staying at #34 and #29. While the hike was nice, there were not any great views along the way (you would do better with something including Gregory Bald, Mt. LeConte, or Mount Sterling I think). Big Creek Loop passes by Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower on it's 34 mile route,which includes Mt. Sterling & Mt.Guyot . I hiked the 11.2 mile Mt.Cammerer day hike this past weekend and realized what a great overnight loop this would be using the fire tower as my camp. Complete the Loop by using the Low Gap Trail via the AT back to Cosby Campground.

HooKooDooKu
09-07-2012, 14:32
Big Creek Loop passes by Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower on it's 34 mile route,which includes Mt. Sterling & Mt.Guyot . I hiked the 11.2 mile Mt.Cammerer day hike this past weekend and realized what a great overnight loop this would be using the fire tower as my camp. Complete the Loop by using the Low Gap Trail via the AT back to Cosby Campground.

Keep in mind the OP indicated 5 to 7 miles per day for 3 days (2 nights).

Distances to Mt Cammerer (one way):
3.5 miles from Cosby Knob
5 miles from Cosby Campground, Davenport Gap, & #37
6 miles from #35

Given that I personally want to avoid Davenport Gap (I've read of stories of occational drinking parties there), there are only two hikes (a loop and a one-way) I can suggestion that includes Mt Cammerer (requiring an 8.5 to 9.5 mile day):
1. Big Creek to #37 to Mt Cammerer to Cosby Knob to Cosby Campground.
2. Cosby Campground to Cosby Knob to Mt Cammerer to #35 back to Cosby Campground.

jorhawle
09-07-2012, 21:39
Over Labor Day Weekend me and my buds did this hike and had a great time...

Day 1... Hiked from Smokemont to campsite 49-- 4 miles
we set up camp early, dropped our packs and hiked the Dry Sluice Gap trail up to Charlie's Bunion-- 8 mile roundtrip

Day 2... Bradley fork trail up to Hughes ridge, then to Enloe creek and camp at #47... 9 milesish. The climb up Bradley Fork will certainly get your blood pumping, but the rest of the hike is pretty level or downhill.

Day 3... Hike Enloe Creek trail to Hyatt Ridge and down to your other car parked on Straight Fork Road--- about 3 miles, almost all downhill!

Not Sunshine
09-08-2012, 08:18
A few years back I did a 30-mile loop (10 mile days) starting at Fontana. We did Lakeshore trail to Eagle Creek Trail [saw huuuge bear], to AT and hiked SOBO back to Fontana. Great memories of that trip! Was a great loop - but BEWARE: [1] there are about 19 "creek" crossings on Eagle Creek trail, where you'll have to wear water shoes (only recommended in the summer) and [2] the last section of Eagle creek before reaching AT was STEEP (I loved going UP this section but wouldn't have enjoyed going down).

HooKooDooKu
09-10-2012, 13:18
Over Labor Day Weekend me and my buds did this hike and had a great time...

Day 1... Hiked from Smokemont to campsite 49-- 4 miles
we set up camp early, dropped our packs and hiked the Dry Sluice Gap trail up to Charlie's Bunion-- 8 mile roundtrip

Day 2... Bradley fork trail up to Hughes ridge, then to Enloe creek and camp at #47... 9 milesish. The climb up Bradley Fork will certainly get your blood pumping, but the rest of the hike is pretty level or downhill.

Day 3... Hike Enloe Creek trail to Hyatt Ridge and down to your other car parked on Straight Fork Road--- about 3 miles, almost all downhill!

I never considered approaching Charlies Bunion from this direction (from Kempart Shelter - yes, #49 - no). I personally could't do all of Day 1 in one day (that's a total of 13+ miles). I've stayed at #49 and liked it, so that does give me two or three ideas for future hikes:

1. Two nights at #49, making the hike to Charlies Bunion a day-trip between the two nights (return to Smokemont requiring only one car).
2a. Two nights: The 1st at #49, the 2nd at Icewater Springs (exit Newfound Gap - with a side trip to "The Dropoff") OR
2b. Two nights: the 1st at #49, the 2nd at Kepart (with a side trip to Charlies Bunion before Kepart - exit Kephart Prong Tr).

What I have considered before (especially if you're going to get a late start the 1st day) is to hike up Kephart Prong to Kephart shelter the 1st night, Charlies Bunion to Icewater Spring the 2nd night, Sweat Heifer Cr Trail (back by Kephart) to exit (again, include a side trip to "The Jump Off" located very near the AT/Boulevard intersection).

HooKooDooKu
09-10-2012, 13:34
A few years back I did a 30-mile loop (10 mile days) starting at Fontana. We did Lakeshore trail to Eagle Creek Trail [saw huuuge bear], to AT and hiked SOBO back to Fontana. Great memories of that trip! Was a great loop - but BEWARE: [1] there are about 19 "creek" crossings on Eagle Creek trail, where you'll have to wear water shoes (only recommended in the summer) and [2] the last section of Eagle creek before reaching AT was STEEP (I loved going UP this section but wouldn't have enjoyed going down).

I REALLY want to hike Eagle Creek, so I've spent years looking at that trail. But for those of us in the subtenmiler club (ON - TOPIC), it's 4 to 5 night hike (OFF-TOPIC). What is really difficult for the slow pokes like me is that there is no good way to do this loop and get to Spence Field by the 2nd night. We can't really expect to get past #89 the 1st night, and #89 to Spence Field might be do-able in a day, but I'm afraid it would put me getting to the popular Spence Field shelter late in the day (i.e. even with a reservation, I'd be afraid there wasn't enough room left).

However, I have found an alternative for Eagle Creek for us subtenmilers that can be done in 3 or 4 nights:
Park at Cades Cove Camp Ground (a little less remote than the drive around to Fontana).
Day 1: Hike up Anthony Creek/Russell Field/AT to Mollies Ridge. It's a LONG 8 mile day, but do-able.
Day 2: Hike the AT to Shuckstack Tower. Turn down Lost Cove Trail and stay at #91 or #90.
Day 3: Hike all the water crossings up Eagle Creek to #97
Day 4: Hike up to Spence Field
Day 5: Hike down Bote Mtn/Anthony Creek to return to your car.
If you can do 10 miles in one day, Day 4 and Day 5 can be combined into a single day.