if you've done the hundred mile wilderness

[gizzy bear]

I want to know what people that have done the HMW think was the most challenging part?

[swjohnsey]

The first coupla days goin' north are the worst, very wet, very rootie.

[Moose2001]

Trying NOT to eat my entire food bag before I was even halfway through!

[SouthMark]

I di it SOBO. Nothing real challenging.

[hikerboy57]

bog bridges,, theyre always too slick in exactly the wrong spots

[evyck da fleet]

Rain. The ascents up the two mountain ranges are the descent down the first are difficult but nothing compared to having to deal with wet roots.

[Don H]

Great view from Whitecap.
The most challenging part after 5 months and over 2,000 miles of hiking was not rushing through and taking the time to enjoy it.

[yellowsirocco]

it is not hard, it is just long. it is actually probably the easiest part of the trail in Maine.

[TJ aka Teej]

Your most challenging part will be in your head.
The AT is basically a series of three or four day backpacking trips.
The 100 mile is a six day backpacking trip.
You won't die.

[peakbagger]

To many southbounders Whitecap is a shock to their system and plans. Many folks come off Katahdin and set a very fast initial pace as the going is good with little elevation change. Visions of getting the section finished early and bumping their daily mileage are dancing in their heads. Then they encounter the long steady climb up White Cap and look west and see that this is not going to be as easy as they thought.

[WingedMonkey]

Northbound...it all seemed flat. And those beautiful little things Maine calls ponds.

[snifur]

Nothing significantly difficult in the HMW. Did it in 4 days. The blueberries slowed me down a lot though but they are strategically placed so that when you do stop to enjoy them you get a great view at the same time. I took lots o pics while eating. Had great cell reception at the blueberry locations which made it possible for me to share the final trail experiences with my family. Good times and great memories...

[swjohnsey]

The blue berries weren't very good this year.

[peakbagger]

I agree, this years blueberries were subpar, definitely folks who hiked it this year really need to come back when its a good berry year ;)

For the OP keep in mind that most NOBO thru hikers have already been through far worse. Section hikers from outside the region may view the thru hikers opinions a tad bit biased. There arent any major surprises for most folks like having to climb up steep rock slabs or crawling underground, but the rocky footbed and generally lack of switchbacks can be an unwelcome surprise.

[gizzy bear]

Trying NOT to eat my entire food bag before I was even halfway through!

ok ....so this is ACTUALLY what i am worried about....i like food...i don't want to run out of food!! :D did you make it ;)

[gizzy bear]

Your most challenging part will be in your head.
The AT is basically a series of three or four day backpacking trips.
The 100 mile is a six day backpacking trip.
You won't die.

dying isn't on my list of things to do.... so that is good!!

[gizzy bear]

Nothing significantly difficult in the HMW. Did it in 4 days. The blueberries slowed me down a lot though but they are strategically placed so that when you do stop to enjoy them you get a great view at the same time. I took lots o pics while eating. Had great cell reception at the blueberry locations which made it possible for me to share the final trail experiences with my family. Good times and great memories...

hey snifur! are the bluebeerries along the trail? i LOVE blueberries...plus the thought of having food along the trail, lessens the thought of me starving to death :) i mean really...does it get any better than eating fresh blueberries and spectacular views!?!? i can't wait!!!!!!

[gizzy bear]

I agree, this years blueberries were subpar, definitely folks who hiked it this year really need to come back when its a good berry year ;)

For the OP keep in mind that most NOBO thru hikers have already been through far worse. Section hikers from outside the region may view the thru hikers opinions a tad bit biased. There arent any major surprises for most folks like having to climb up steep rock slabs or crawling underground, but the rocky footbed and generally lack of switchbacks can be an unwelcome surprise.

thanks peakbagger....you make it sound like a walk in the park ;)

[Lone Wolf]

I want to know what people that have done the HMW think was the most challenging part?

mosquitos in late june

[gizzy bear]

bog bridges,, theyre always too slick in exactly the wrong spots

slippery bog bridges are inconvienent :p

[gizzy bear]

mosquitos in late june

specifically planning the hike the end of august to avoid bugs...well as much as we can ...

[gizzy bear]

Rain. The ascents up the two mountain ranges are the descent down the first are difficult but nothing compared to having to deal with wet roots.


the wet roots seem to be a popular response...as long as they aren't slippery rooots ...

[Cookerhiker]

I hiked it NOBO in 7 days as part of a section hike that started in Gorham. So I was in pretty good shape when I started from Monson. Ironically, for me the shortest day (http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=117044) in which I hiked the Barren-Chairback range was the most tiring because it was up-and-down all day, the footing was rough, and the weather was humid. That night, thunderstorms came through blowing away the humidity, resulting in perfect weather for the rest of the hike.

I agree that the 100 Mile Wilderness is the easiest part of Maine but it's not 100% flat. Yes, there are some flat stretches where you can stride very briskly (if you choose) but the first 15 miles is all little ups & downs, the Barren-Chairback range slowed me down, there's uphills to Whitecap, Little Boardman, Nesuntabunt. Nothing like Moody Mountain or Old Blue or the Bigalows but if you go in thinking "flat," you're in for a surprise.

[gizzy bear]

I hiked it NOBO in 7 days as part of a section hike that started in Gorham. So I was in pretty good shape when I started from Monson. Ironically, for me the shortest day (http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=117044) in which I hiked the Barren-Chairback range was the most tiring because it was up-and-down all day, the footing was rough, and the weather was humid. That night, thunderstorms came through blowing away the humidity, resulting in perfect weather for the rest of the hike.

I agree that the 100 Mile Wilderness is the easiest part of Maine but it's not 100% flat. Yes, there are some flat stretches where you can stride very briskly (if you choose) but the first 15 miles is all little ups & downs, the Barren-Chairback range slowed me down, there's uphills to Whitecap, Little Boardman, Nesuntabunt. Nothing like Moody Mountain or Old Blue or the Bigalows but if you go in thinking "flat," you're in for a surprise.

awesome response...we are also hiking NOBO... and really have NO IDEA (other than a few pics here & there) what the terrain is like....and my mind can't wrap around those cartoon looking graphs that look like an EKG...so i enjoyed reading your post... i am anticipating a fun, challenging hike...with a LOT of beautiful scenery :D you did it in 7 days? did you also summit katahdin? we are aiming for 9 days to include the summit of katahdin....if we make it faster, that is fine....but we REALLY want to enjoy the hike and not push through it and wish we had taken more time and done it differently....this will probably be our ONLY chance to do this hike :)

[Cookerhiker]

awesome response...we are also hiking NOBO... and really have NO IDEA (other than a few pics here & there) what the terrain is like....and my mind can't wrap around those cartoon looking graphs that look like an EKG...so i enjoyed reading your post... i am anticipating a fun, challenging hike...with a LOT of beautiful scenery :D you did it in 7 days? did you also summit katahdin? we are aiming for 9 days to include the summit of katahdin....if we make it faster, that is fine....but we REALLY want to enjoy the hike and not push through it and wish we had taken more time and done it differently....this will probably be our ONLY chance to do this hike :)

The 7 days was Monson to Abol Bridge. The plan was Day 8 Abol Bridge to Katahdin Stream CG, Day 9 summit Katahdin. But because of the weather forecast, when my buddy met me at Abol Bridge on Day 7, we drove to Katahdin Stream t spend the night, I summited the Big K on Day 8 and hiked the short, easy stretch between Katahdin Stream & Abol on Day 9 - in a steady rain which vindicated our decision.

My post above has the link to my journal. It's on the second line, embedded in "the shortest day"

[gizzy bear]

The 7 days was Monson to Abol Bridge. The plan was Day 8 Abol Bridge to Katahdin Stream CG, Day 9 summit Katahdin. But because of the weather forecast, when my buddy met me at Abol Bridge on Day 7, we drove to Katahdin Stream t spend the night, I summited the Big K on Day 8 and hiked the short, easy stretch between Katahdin Stream & Abol on Day 9 - in a steady rain which vindicated our decision.

My post above has the link to my journal. It's on the second line, embedded in "the shortest day"

i clicked on the link and read your journal..thanks for sharing ...that is very cool to read :cool: i am PRAYING that we don't have a monsoon when we are there...a little rain...im fine...but day after day after day....NOT :eek: thanks cookerhiker !!

[Stepinwolfe]

I did it SOBO during a very wet summer so it was SLOWGO through the swampy low areas and very slippery on the rocks. Finished with only one Power Bar to eat on the last day.

[gizzy bear]

I did it SOBO during a very wet summer so it was SLOWGO through the swampy low areas and very slippery on the rocks. Finished with only one Power Bar to eat on the last day.

sooooo...are the swamp and bog one in the same? and what exactly IS bog??? the only bog i know is chicken bog...and it's YUMMY :D

[Highway Man]

Wet roots and slick slates after rains. In addition, one gotta be carefull with crossing the streams. Don't get yourself swept away by the currents and keep the gears dry. Other than these, just prepare to haul 5~6 day food supply till Abol Bridge.

[gizzy bear]

Wet roots and slick slates after rains. In addition, one gotta be carefull with crossing the streams. Don't get yourself swept away by the currents and keep the gears dry. Other than these, just prepare to haul 5~6 day food supply till Abol Bridge.

yeah i have some experience with slippery river/stream rocks....slippery is putting it mildly...those slippery rocks will put one on their azz like it's nobody's business....and keeping the gear dry is imperative!!! so i have to say fording creeks, especially if it has rained pretty hard.... def present a hazzard ....

[HikerMom58]

Ahhh.... the end of August should be a good time to go to Maine. I'm so excited for you gizzy!! I can't wait to see the pics from the trip and hear all about it. Until then, we'll hang out with you here. :D

[swjohnsey]

And the pickin' are mighty slim when you get to Abol bridge.

[gizzy bear]

Ahhh.... the end of August should be a good time to go to Maine. I'm so excited for you gizzy!! I can't wait to see the pics from the trip and hear all about it. Until then, we'll hang out with you here. :D

thank you HM!! we are very excited about our hike... still planning and purchasing gear, so i LOVE reading WB...and learning and even laughing....and you by far are one of the sweetest around!! :D

[hikerboy57]

Rasty and i are going sobo from k on aug2.should hit monson around the 10th or 11th.

[gizzy bear]

Rasty and i are going sobo from k on aug2.should hit monson around the 10th or 11th.

well our dates are not carved in stone... we have tried to plan a time that is best case scenario, ie the bugs & rain... and we came up with late august...and i am sure as time gets nearer we may have to tweek that....so who knows we may run into each other...that would be cool :) we are really looking forward to meeting people and talkling...since i have learned on WB that THAT is a huge part of the experience :)

[chip2012]

If you are really worried about food you can have food drops put out for you. It is neither 100 miles nor wilderness. Be sure to stay at cloud pond. It took me and a buddy 10 days from BSP and we both ate our last bits of food the last morning. South end is worse than the north and I think they take you up 4th mountain twice. Get ready to go straight up then straight down.

[Cookerhiker]

well our dates are not carved in stone... we have tried to plan a time that is best case scenario, ie the bugs & rain... and we came up with late august...and i am sure as time gets nearer we may have to tweek that....so who knows we may run into each other...that would be cool :) we are really looking forward to meeting people and talkling...since i have learned on WB that THAT is a huge part of the experience :)

Well if my experience is any indicator, late August is a good time to avoid the bugs. I didn't have any when I hiked Maine in '05 and the Long Trail in VT in '07. Both hikes started in mid-August.

[gizzy bear]

Well if my experience is any indicator, late August is a good time to avoid the bugs. I didn't have any when I hiked Maine in '05 and the Long Trail in VT in '07. Both hikes started in mid-August.

thanks for the confirmation CH...we have read up and enlisted thoughts and ideas here on WB and decided that august or early sept would be the best...(but we are alos up to tweeking the dates to get the best weather we can) we were also thinking about the temps(as well as the other factors mentioned)....i know the weather there can change quickly... but statistically speaking, the weather at that time seems to be ideal...was your weather good? how about rain? did you get alot of rain?

[Cookerhiker]

thanks for the confirmation CH...we have read up and enlisted thoughts and ideas here on WB and decided that august or early sept would be the best...(but we are alos up to tweeking the dates to get the best weather we can) we were also thinking about the temps(as well as the other factors mentioned)....i know the weather there can change quickly... but statistically speaking, the weather at that time seems to be ideal...was your weather good? how about rain? did you get alot of rain?

My Maine hike (mid-August to mid-September) was fairly dry, as least as much that be reasonably expected for a month-long hike. My only rainy days were:

1. Half-day hikng up Mahoosuc Arm and Old Speck in afternoon. Morning through the Notch was overcast & damp but no rain.
2. Rained during night I stayed in Bemis Lean-to - next day was sunny but rocks were still wet and slowed me down - fell a few times.
3. 2-3 days preceeding Hurricane Katrina. Rain at night when I stayed at Sugarloaf ski hut, light drizzle 2 days later slackpacking the Crockers, poured hard the day of the Hurricane when I took a zero at Stratton Motel.
4. Rained at night at Chairback Lean-to in 100 Mile Wilderness.
5. Rained day after I summitted Katahdin when I walked between Katahdin Stream and Abol Bridge.

Look at it this way - I had beautiful dry sunny weather for the Gooses, Bald Pates, Moody Mountain, Old Blue and most of the Bemis range, Saddlebacks, Bigalows, Pleasant Pond Mountain, Moxie Bald, every day in the 100 Mile Wilderness. I was fortunate!

[snifur]

Everyday in Maine is better than any other day anywhere else. It is true and a fact. No one can argue that. It is well known and documented. The trails in Maine are easy. The weather variations only compliments the trails of Maine even more. You will enjoy every minute of your hike. There will be nothing that discourages you on any trail in Maine, except maybe all the tourists that complain about how tough it is.

[swjohnsey]

Maine is pretty much a green wasteland.

[hikerboy57]

Maine is pretty much a green wasteland.

Jjohn colter said the same thing about Yellowstone.

[garlic08]

I'm mostly a Western hiker, and as such was not daunted by a 100 mile food carry. I was surprised to see some graded road crossings. There's a different definition of "wilderness" back East. I made several other 100 mile food carries on the AT (to avoid hitchhiking and leaving the trail for resupply) and this was just one more. The only challenge for me going NOBO was the first 40 miles or so of slick rocks and roots, but the rest of the AT in there was prime hiking--dry, level tread, as I recall. Very nice hiking overall.

[peakbagger]

If your schedule is open, keep in mind that Baxter State Park (I assume you want to climb Katahdin) gets 100% booked in the last week of August first week of September. Unless you want to join the hardy souls (hopefully including me) waiting in the parking lot at 6 AM int he first week of January to book a spot, you will need to use the rolling reservation system (go to the BSP website for details) , you can normally get a spot somewhere during the week but on the weekends in late August and early September the place is booked solid. I always like to go up the second week in September as all the camp groups are off the trail and the park has quieted down. I don't recommend pushing it much past the second week in September as the weather can sometimes get cold. Then again Hurricane Irene came through the week before labor day. Ideally I would set it up so that you time it to end up a few days after Labor day in the park.

If at all possible try to get a cabin at Daicey Pond or if you cant get one there, Kidney Pond when you enter the park. They are both a few extra miles compared to staying at Katahdin Stream. They are real popular deservedly so do a search for either on on google and you will see why. Forget Firday and Saturday nights but you sometimes can sneak in a reservation during the week. Whatever you do plan on at least two nights in the park just in case you have a bad weather day.

[gizzy bear]

If your schedule is open, keep in mind that Baxter State Park (I assume you want to climb Katahdin) gets 100% booked in the last week of August first week of September. Unless you want to join the hardy souls (hopefully including me) waiting in the parking lot at 6 AM int he first week of January to book a spot, you will need to use the rolling reservation system (go to the BSP website for details) , you can normally get a spot somewhere during the week but on the weekends in late August and early September the place is booked solid. I always like to go up the second week in September as all the camp groups are off the trail and the park has quieted down. I don't recommend pushing it much past the second week in September as the weather can sometimes get cold. Then again Hurricane Irene came through the week before labor day. Ideally I would set it up so that you time it to end up a few days after Labor day in the park.

If at all possible try to get a cabin at Daicey Pond or if you cant get one there, Kidney Pond when you enter the park. They are both a few extra miles compared to staying at Katahdin Stream. They are real popular deservedly so do a search for either on on google and you will see why. Forget Firday and Saturday nights but you sometimes can sneak in a reservation during the week. Whatever you do plan on at least two nights in the park just in case you have a bad weather day.

what a informative post!!! okaaaaaayyyyy....so we have to make reservations to climb katahdin?!? i have never heard of that...ever....i will def check out the website! we will have to plan on summiting during the week :D

i had NO IDEA about the cabins ....i googled them and WHAT VIEWS!!!!!! and very good advice about planning on 2 nights in case mother nature isn't being co-opertive.... it is info like this that help tremendously in planning!!! thanks so much!!!

[peakbagger]

You do not officially have to reserve a space to hike up Katahdin but you either need to have reservations to camp in the three campgrounds where the trailheads are located (Roaring Brook, Katahdin Stream or Abol) or you need to have a day use parking pass to park at the three trailheads if you are do not have camping reservations. The net result is the same, you need either reservation or a parking pass. There are limited parking spaces at each campsite for day use parking pass holders so on weekends they sell out in advance. If you stay at the Birches campsite, in theory you are a thru hiker and can walk across the street to Katahdin Stream campground and wont need a place to park. Daicey Pond is about a 2 mile walk to Kathadin stream mostly through flat woods. Kidney Pond is a bit farther.

By the way, you cant leave a car in the park for long term parking while you are hiking, therefore you need to arrange a shuttle to give you a ride out to Millinocket, have someone meet you or hitch. There is long term parking at Abol Bridge (not to be confused with Abol campsite) but that is a half a day hike to get to the trailheads inside the park. Hitching isnt that hard as 99% of the traffic heading out of the park is heading to Millinocket and tends to be hikers who will usually give rides to backpackers. Some folks can hike from Abol Bridge to the summit and back out of the park, but its a real long day for most.

[Odd Man Out]

The blue berries weren't very good this year.

Do they have thimbleberries?

[peakbagger]

No thimbleberries, plenty of raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries, crowberries, arctic blueberries, low bush blue berries and arctic cranberries. Unfortunately many of the lower elevation berries are past season for late August hiking but the alpine berries are usually good until early september.

[MuddyWaters]

I'm mostly a Western hiker, and as such was not daunted by a 100 mile food carry. I was surprised to see some graded road crossings. There's a different definition of "wilderness" back East. I made several other 100 mile food carries on the AT (to avoid hitchhiking and leaving the trail for resupply) and this was just one more. The only challenge for me going NOBO was the first 40 miles or so of slick rocks and roots, but the rest of the AT in there was prime hiking--dry, level tread, as I recall. Very nice hiking overall.

For comparison, the AT thru the smokies could be called the 70 mile wilderness, if you dont get off at NFgap.

Its just a name.

[mudhead]

Everyday in Maine is better than any other day anywhere else. It is true and a fact. No one can argue that. It is well known and documented. The trails in Maine are easy. The weather variations only compliments the trails of Maine even more. You will enjoy every minute of your hike. There will be nothing that discourages you on any trail in Maine, except maybe all the tourists that complain about how tough it is.


You write this for the hiking column in the Portland Press?

[Starchild]

Since I did the HMW as all day hikes the most challenging part was getting the car to some of the trailheads, particularly IIRC White Cap that then required a unbridged stream crossing in a 'non trail hardened' SUV and some very long car shuttles.

The hikes themselves were amazing.

[Tinker]

I hit the "wilderness" after a pretty full year of section hikes and was in good shape. That was in 2008. I did not find any of the trip to be terribly difficult. My frameless pack, usually good for up to 25 lbs. was carrying nearly 10 lbs. over that, so the first few days I felt a little top heavy (my food bag actually stuck about a foot out the top of my Golite Dawn over the draw cord). I went a bit light on the clothing and was a little chilly on top of Katahdin and the next morning when it was in the high 40s.

Ok - I admit that the Katahdin climb was a bit difficult, since I was underpowered, calorie-wise, despite taking a zero at the "honor system" (drop money in a heavy steel box for collection by rangers later) shelters across from the store at Abol Bridge, and making many trips across the road to gorge on junk food :D.

Fwiw: I carried approx. 18 lbs. of food (including a repackaged - from glass to plastic jar of ghee - clarified butter, lots of beef jerkey, candy, bagels, and Lipton dinners). The "wilderness" took me 8-1/2 days, including a "nero" at the White House Landing sporting camp to wait out the remnants of a tropical storm. http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/files/2/5/0/2/dsc01554_thumb.jpg[/URL ([URL]http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/showimage.php?i=38630)]
I missed getting crushed by a rotten birch tree by just a few seconds after going to the bunk room. I heard it fall. :eek:

[snifur]

Mudhead, I did not right this for the PPH. However I did have an article published in the Gripe Line back in 1995. I am a born and raised Mainer that has traveled the world. Never found another place like Maine in all my travels and hikes. The woods are still deep and dark where no man has walked. Absolutely amazing to sit and look over all creation and know that there is not a soul for miles.

[Cookerhiker]

... Never found another place like Maine in all my travels and hikes. The woods are still deep and dark where no man has walked....

I'm surprised - I thought that the Maine woods, like nearly all of the Appalachians - was 2nd generation forest or later. The "men that walked" would have been the loggers.

[Tinker]

Romanticizing (new word, maybe??:D) is one of the traits of a nature lover. :)

[snifur]

hey, watch it... i have been called many things and even my wife knows better than to say i am a romantic an i know not of romanticizing, unless it involves that hooker and the bottle of whiskey from years ago. Cookerhiker, clearly you have never been to Maine, off the trail in the real woods, and experienced what Gaia has given us. There is much that has not been logged.

[RED-DOG]

The hardest thing about the 100 mile wilderness is being wet all the time day and night it's not challenging it's just wet wet and wet.

[swjohnsey]

I'm surprised - I thought that the Maine woods, like nearly all of the Appalachians - was 2nd generation forest or later. The "men that walked" would have been the loggers.

You are correct, most of the 100 mile wilderness was clearcut. 'Bout the biggest tree you see is foot in diameter because most of the soil washed away after the clearcut.

[DrRichardCranium]

You can break up the trek by stopping at White House Landing.

[Red Hat]

The Chairback Barren range, for sure! I've tried it both north and south a total of three times. Hated it all three. I am just not meant for those big rock climbs up or down.

Although, I should say that the trail has gotten better with stairsteps in many places instead of awkward, stumbling, tumbling rocks. Thank you trailworkers!!!!!

[swjohnsey]

The Chairback Barren range, for sure! I've tried it both north and south a total of three times. Hated it all three. I am just not meant for those big rock climbs up or down.

Although, I should say that the trail has gotten better with stairsteps in many places instead of awkward, stumbling, tumbling rocks. Thank you trailworkers!!!!!


Yep, there is some very nice rock work. Seems the bog bridgess were mostly built in 1993 and they have mostly rotted away.

[peakbagger]

Still some big white pines here and there. There is a small patch of old growth white pines near the start of gulf hagas trail and I seem to remember some good sized pines here and there along the way.