View Full Version : pack making advice
I have been lurking and learning for nearly a year and and I am greatful for the education the members of this board have provided. I guess now it is time to start asking questions.
Has anybody made the G4 pack using a kit? If so could you share the pros and cons of your experience.
Thanks for the help.
samfsmith
07-27-2005, 09:09
I made one from the kit. The instructions were not all that clear, at least to me. I ended up ripping out some seams, turning things over the right way, and re-sewing them. If you are more experienced at sewing things, or can visualize how it all goes together better than I can, you might avoid that.
After it was finished I went back and altered it. I made the side mesh pockets into an upper and a lower so a 20oz water bottle would fit, and so I could remove the water bottles while hiking. I'm not a big fan of water bladders.
I cut foam and put it in the shoulder straps and hip belt. If I make another I will omit the velcro closures and make the foam permanent. Does it really add much weight to have permanent foam? Not in my opinion.
I havn't made one yet. However I do sew quite a lot, some things I have learned:
ALL patterns are evil, well at least those who draw/write them are. :) Actually, they are written by those who know how to sew (whatever) & tend to leave out important steps, or word it incorrectly ie. my last project said "sew cuff A to sleeve B right side to wrong side, then turn." Which was right, the instructions picture however had it right side to right side, and the pieces backwards. SO, do as I did, read & study the pics, then go away & think about it, come back & the instructions should make sense. Sometimes I sew with scrap material sort of as practice. Bed sheets from a thrift store are great for practice material.
Allow more of a seam allowence than called for. Especially if you use a serger as I do.
I made Panniers for my bike once, a long long time ago. GO SLOWLY, plan each move, if you sew A to B before C, you may not be able to sew in D when the time comes. I hate seam ripping!
Have fun!
Doctari.
I just finished assembling the "Ray-Way" product. problems came from not properly comparing the written word with the illustration, but it's done...well with the exception of one piece of nylon tape that I mistakenly cut into 6 inch pieces when I needed to to be 30 " but I'll never admit to that.
Frolicking Dinosaurs
07-29-2005, 01:09
I made a G-4 from the instructions - no kit. The instruction aren't all that clear even for an experienced seamtress. I had to rip out two seams during the process.
I agree with samfsmith about putting the foam in the shoulder straps permanently. Socks and such work well as padding in the hip belt, but not in the shoulder straps.
I also added a large mesh pocket that zips down the middle to the entire back of the pack - great for drying wet clothes / gear while hiking. When unzipped it folds back and is held out of the way by loops with velco.
chiefduffy
10-11-2005, 05:42
Bogey,
I just made my own Rayway pack, and I've only had it out once. I am curious if you've had any problems with yours. Thanks
-chiefduffy
Doctari - did I read somewhere that you use a quilt and not a sleeping bag? If so - did you make it yourself?
I am contemplating making a quilt instead of a bag - I tend to be a hot sleeper and think the quilt option would be better.
betic4lyf
10-12-2005, 19:58
i am about to start building my pack. i designed it myself, it is just sort of a nylon sack 12wide, by 10 deep, by pretty tall with extension tube. my question is how much a padded shoulder padd is needed. I feel like a doubled up layer of nylon would work to distribut the load. Just wondering if anyone has tried it. also, could anyone suggest what kind of stitch to use, and how to do it, as i am not super experienced.
If it helps, Thru-Hiker has shoulder straps for sale. I think they are about $10 a pair.
NoKnees
Rollergirl
10-13-2005, 10:34
When I sewed my pack for the PCT, I used a featherstitch and triple stitched every seam. The seams were never a problem, but the 1.1 oz rip stop nylon I used didn't take abuse very well....
Good luck!
Love,
Rollergirl
littledragon
10-13-2005, 11:46
about quilts- I made mine, and I love it. It only took a couple of hours to do the entire process. Make sure that you have the right machine needle- it will make the process go more smoothly.
schwenkler
10-15-2005, 19:41
Related question: does anyone know where to get "3D mesh," the wicking mesh material used in shoulder & hip straps?
littledragon - what kind of needle did you use?
Bogey,
I just made my own Rayway pack, and I've only had it out once. I am curious if you've had any problems with yours. Thanks
-chiefduffy
Ya know, I've not had any problems. then I haven't had a lot of opportunity for problems either. But I did realize that the buckles on the padded straps seem to be somewhat backwards. Contrary to say a book bag, when you want to tighten the shoulder straps you grab the end and pull down. on the Ray-way instructions, the adjustment is by pulling UP, and seems that the whole pack wants to come along for the ride.
Since I built it, I know how to make it the way I want it, no problem, but I was surprised at that design feature.
I PLAN to give it another test next week maybe from Harper's Ferry to DC, if I get the time off.
betic4lyf
10-16-2005, 14:04
do i kneed a felled seam or will the following work. i am having trouble making them, and if i heat the edges so they dont unravel, the felled seams would only add bulk.
this (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/betic4lyf/c2eea691.jpg)
do i kneed a felled seam or will the following work. i am having trouble making them, and if i heat the edges so they dont unravel, the felled seams would only add bulk.
this (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/betic4lyf/c2eea691.jpg)
This question really ought to be directed to Just Jeff, an acknowledged expert in the home-made equipment field, BUT, since you asked me, my take is that with the felled seam, you're pulling against the fabric, and the stiching just sort of holds the material together and in line to keep the strain pulling in the right direction.
In other words the strain isn't really against the stitching thread.
the seam you showed, is admittedly easier, but all the strain is against the binding threads, and even with triple stitching, when it starts to come loose, it tends to do it in a hurry. (example, One thread breaks, increasing the strain on each of the other rows by 50%, and it's downhill from there.)
Don't know if this helps, or not, but like I said, check with Just Jeff
Just Jeff
10-17-2005, 10:50
Haha...thanks for the vote of confidence but I'm not an expert! Most of the stuff I make is just simple seams. There are lots of people on this forum and others with much more experience than me...I just talk a lot!
But I think Bogey is right about the felled seam working better. It gives the thread more layers of material to "bite through" in order to hold better. A triple stitch would spread out the force on the fabric bettern than a single or double, but it's still only one layer of fabric on each side.
That doesn't mean the triple stitch wouldn't work, though. If you have some spare material, make a big stuff sack and use it around the house and yard and see how it holds up.
But like I said, I'm not an expert on types of seams. Gardenville makes all kinds of stuff...he might know better. If you want an opinion from a professional seamstress, talk to "pennys" at http://www.backpacking.net/forums/ (she's the moderator). She also hosts http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/tips.asp .
I think http://www.geocities.com/gengvall/sew/sew.html is a must-read for making gear, too.
Hope your project turns out well!
Youngblood
10-17-2005, 11:37
I'm no expert but do recall that Stephenson had something to say about the seam you showed: http://www.warmlite.com/seams.htm .
tlbj6142
10-17-2005, 13:58
Related question: does anyone know where to get "3D mesh," the wicking mesh material used in shoulder & hip straps?If you ever find a source, please let me know. I've never been able to find this stuff either.
Bogey,
I just made my own Rayway pack..
-chiefduffy
I'm thinking about doing that pack as well. Tell me what you think of it so far. My current pack is 7.5lb Gregory Lassen, it can carry tons...and that's the problem :)
betic4lyf
10-18-2005, 20:38
that stephenson thing is what confused me.
Youngblood
10-18-2005, 21:02
that stephenson thing is what confused me.I think he said that the overlap seam (using two stitches) achieved 95% of the fabric strength, was as strong as a flat felled seam and that a flat felled seam was needed on fabric that frays. For flat construction where you have hot cut the edges so they won't fray, seems like the overlap is what you would want... it would have two layers of fabric where the flat felled seam would have four or more layers of fabric. Of course there might be other issues.
If you ever find a source, please let me know. I've never been able to find this stuff either.
I don't know if this is what you mean or not, but Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics has a variety of mesh netting etc. http://www.owfinc.com/Fabrics/mesh&netting.asp takes you to that part of their web catalog, but click on catalog and I think their pictures are on page 4 of the pdf catalog.
I think...
whiteagle
10-19-2005, 12:32
I carry a home-made g4. I did use the patterns and definitely recomend them. For what they cost, they are definitely worth it. I'm not exactly a pro, but it was tons easier than building my sleeping bag. The nice thing about building it yourself is you can build it like you want. For instance, I added a Mariposa style Y compression strap to the back instead of just the straight one, made the two outter side pockets out of sil-nylon so they wouldn't snag like the g5, made an angled mesh pocket with elastic cord on the sides towards the bottom for trail munchies and camera, and just made it fit better overall (i.e. cut the foam support down to my torso width). All in all a great learning experience.
The instructions do get a bit confusing at times, but take your time. It really helps if you get confused to take a break, step away for a while, and come back later. So many times I'd work for 20 mins getting nowhere, then come back after a break only to immediately see how it should go. The cool thing is, once you get done with your first one and have it all figured out, making more just seems easy. Not to mention it gives you the know how to design your own packs. I'm planning on making something like a whisper uberlight in a couple of weeks, and this summer I made a hydration type pack for jogging with a platypus.
Overall not that difficult of a project that gets you a really great pack for pennies.
Daniel