View Full Version : GSMNP - Aug 31 - Sep 5
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 11:54
My plans are locked in. I'll be on the AT Saturday 8/31 through Thursday 9/5, and the destination is the Great Smoky Mountain National Park! Other than the backcountry permit, what else should I know or expect - veterans and experts (or trolls...) - please weigh in on:
General weather conditions
Access to water - where, and what quantity/quality should I expect this time of year?
Scenic side-steps worth looking for
Plants to look for or avoid common in late summer? (I like to forage a bit if I can)
Thanks for any advice, everyone. :bananaSuper stoked.:banana
fredmugs
07-11-2013, 12:04
When I went thru GSMNP it was memorial day weekend and the temps dropped below 40 and it was raining. By the end I was becoming a little hypothermic. Prepare for the worst. I've never been in the Smokies on a clear sunny day. Other than the entrance and the exit it's a pretty easy trail to hike.
too earlier to tell about weather.........
water shouldnt be a problem this year.......we've had a ton of rain in this area the last few weeks and i dont really see a spring running dry between now and then....
all the shelters have a spring nearby, along with some other various springs along the way......
as for side trails-----go up shuckstack tower...........along with mount mount cammerer........both are right off the AT......those are the easiest side trails to do......unless you wanna add more mileage in....
also.......might as well go up clingmans dome while you're there..............and before newfound gap, look for the people tunnel.......its just an interesting relic of the past....
a plant to avoid---poison ivy.....
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 12:38
TNhiker - bingo - you got off to a good start with what I needed.
*TYPICAL* early september weather - should I plan for pants vs shorts / light bag vs blanket/light quilt? My gut feeling says it will be generally hot, humid, buggy as hell, and pretty wet, but having not been there I want to focus that in a little.
illabelle
07-11-2013, 13:07
Our two Smokies hikes were done in late May and mid-October. Both trips were a little chilly, but not uncomfortable. We've also hiked other parts of the AT in NC/TN, mostly in spring and fall. I would expect that late August could be hot, humid, and buggy.... or not. If I were going at this time, I would hike in shorts, and I would carry my long johns and my rain pants and my long sleeves and a warm jacket - but that's just me, and I sleep cold. The local temperature in Knoxville is currently 79*. At 5000+ elevation, it will be at least 10* cooler.
I would not expect bugs to be an issue. Please do be careful with your food. Problem bears here and there.
The AT through the Smokies is almost entirely along the crest of the mountains, sometimes on narrow little ridges. While it's not above treeline, there will be open areas here and there where you'll get views, breezes, sunburn, and lightning risk (if it's stormy). If the weather pattern continues what it's done so far this year, storms will be one of your bigger concerns.
I haven't seen any poison ivy at higher elevations, but you will probably see some on your entry/exit to the park.
yes.....make sure food and smelly objects are secure......
most, if not all, shelters have a resident bear....
and really dont leave a pack unattended...........last year at cosby knob, i read the register about a hiker who had his pack taken by a bear and found it a few hundred yards away....
also, i know from personal experience last year at russell field that a bear shook my pack around while i was gone for exactly 5 minutes......i had hung food up in cables but left pack out on table to return to it on ground and dusty......
and for temps-----if it were me----i would pack a light fleece type jacket, and a pair of sweat type pants, and i'd be fine............of course, it could vary either way (as in, way hot than planned or a touch colder).....
HooKooDooKu
07-11-2013, 15:01
The AT follows the mountain ridge of the Smokies and the elevations can easily make temperatures chillier than you might expect.
The "average" temperature charts say that you should expect lows in the upper 40s to upper 50s. But the weather is variable enough that at those upper elevations your night time low temperatures could be anywhere from upper 30s to mid 60s.
Even in the summer, I now carry a 2lb 32º sleeping bag for camping in the GSMNP.
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 16:47
This is great stuff, everyone - thanks!
Don't forget that you will need reservations for your shelters.
Maybe I will see you out there. I am thinking of getting on the trail around Sept. 1 and doing 2 weeks.
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 17:23
Don't forget that you will need reservations for your shelters.
Yup - my dates aren't available on the calendar yet. I'll be looking at my maps to map out what shelters to reserve so when my dates open up in a couple weeks I can jump on them. Quick question, though. Can I sign up for backcountry passes for both I and my hiking parter (who lives in Georgia) at the same time?
And there are no tents allowed at the shelters, correct? And also no tent camping on AT that's NOT at the shelters? Are the shelters really good enough for me to not need any kind of protection from elements/bugs? Having trouble wrapping my head around that one.
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 17:25
Maybe I will see you out there. I am thinking of getting on the trail around Sept. 1 and doing 2 weeks.
Hell yeah. We'll probably be going south from Clingman's and will continue SB out of the park over the dam. When I reserve my shelters I'll probably post.
Can I sign up for backcountry passes for both I and my hiking parter (who lives in Georgia) at the same time?
yeah.......i think you can do up to 8 people at time..........
[QUOTE][And there are no tents allowed at the shelters, correct? And also no tent camping on AT that's NOT at the shelters? Are the shelters really good enough for me to not need any kind of protection from elements/bugs/QUOTE]
no tents........no hammocks....
and yeah.....for the most part you'll have protection from elements.......they've redone all the shelters over the last few years but every now and then you'll have a leak in roof, but nothing major...
as for wind and in winter time, there typically is a tarp strung up that one can lower......
and its not the bugs you really need to worry about----it's the mice.....
every shelter, due to lazy hikers who dont clean up after their meals and other things, has mice in them.......
And also no tent camping on AT that's NOT at the shelters?
in the Park, you have to camp at established campsites or shelters.........
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 17:40
yeah.......i think you can do up to 8 people at time..........
[QUOTE][And there are no tents allowed at the shelters, correct? And also no tent camping on AT that's NOT at the shelters? Are the shelters really good enough for me to not need any kind of protection from elements/bugs/QUOTE]
no tents........no hammocks....
and yeah.....for the most part you'll have protection from elements.......they've redone all the shelters over the last few years but every now and then you'll have a leak in roof, but nothing major... and its not the bugs you really need to worry about----it's the mice.....every shelter, due to lazy hikers who dont clean up after their meals and other things, has mice in them.......
Cool - you may have just saved me 3 pounds - I'll just bring my Tyvek tarp with me. Any decent "living with the mice" advice?
yeah....
don't leave food around......other than that, just get use to them, i guess....
i never get much sleep in shelters cause im a light sleeper and can hear them scurring across the tin roof and what not....
also, i've sat at the table, with hands on a book, and have had mice run up one arm, across neck, and down other arm.....
Omaha_Ace
07-11-2013, 17:51
yeah....
don't leave food around......other than that, just get use to them, i guess....
i never get much sleep in shelters cause im a light sleeper and can hear them scurring across the tin roof and what not....
also, i've sat at the table, with hands on a book, and have had mice run up one arm, across neck, and down other arm.....
I was expecting "Bring snakes." lol...
oh, dont worry.....
each shelter has snakes as well....
good hunting ground for them.....
MuddyWaters
07-11-2013, 19:25
Check the weather before you go and you can plan accordingly. There is weather forecast for Leconte and NFgap available.
Sometimes its warmer on the mountains than down below when there is an inversion. Cannot just assume its 20F colder than in knoxville, it can be warmer.
Probably mid 40s the lowest you will see.
Definitely short sleeve weather in day. You might want a light fleece for 10 minutes in the morning at the highest elevations.
atj_Hiker
07-11-2013, 21:55
Mount Cammerer lookout tower is well worth the extra mile. I've hiked through the Smoky Mountains on the AT and it was the best view, even better than Klingmans Dome. Stayed at Tricorner shelter a few years back and had a lot of bears stop by to visit between 9p and 10p. Too tired to stay awake after that. I just hiked up the North end in May and started hiking at 4:30a to get up most the elevation before the sun came up. I'd recommend Shuckshack on the South end but it was cloudy when I was there and couldn't see anything. It's a really nice hike. Enjoy!
Omaha_Ace
07-12-2013, 09:29
Avoid Gatlinberg
...ok...but now I'm curious.
Gatlinburg is like a tacky beach town. I hit it on Labor Day weekend, when the poster is going to be hiking, I was expecting just a little mountain town for resupply and shower boy was I wrong. The place was so crowded, as it is a vacation spot for people in that part of the world, and it was nearly impossible to find a room. We had been on the trail since Springer, talk about a culture shock!
Sorry Omaha I spaced out you are the original poster. :)
however, if you need salt water taffy and an air brush tshirt----go into gatlinburg....
Omaha_Ace
07-12-2013, 11:17
Gatlinburg is like a tacky beach town. I hit it on Labor Day weekend, when the poster is going to be hiking, I was expecting just a little mountain town for resupply and shower boy was I wrong. The place was so crowded, as it is a vacation spot for people in that part of the world, and it was nearly impossible to find a room. We had been on the trail since Springer, talk about a culture shock!
As long as I don't have to squeal like a pig.
however, if you need salt water taffy and an air brush tshirt----go into gatlinburg....
5 Guys Grill and KFC also
max patch
07-12-2013, 12:08
If you are just hiking the GSMNP you probably don't need a resupply. But if you want a resupply there is nothing wrong with Gatlinburg. Has cheap hotels, AYCE buffets, pizza places, steak places, - everything a hiker needs. I have no idea why some families will spend a weeks vacation there, but for a one nite in and out there is nothing wrong with the place.
coach lou
07-12-2013, 12:17
Would it not be reasonable to make day trips into the park from there?!
Would it not be reasonable to make day trips into the park from there?!
Yes. There are many trailheads within twenty miles of Gatlinburg.
Omaha_Ace
07-12-2013, 17:51
If you are just hiking the GSMNP you probably don't need a resupply. But if you want a resupply there is nothing wrong with Gatlinburg. Has cheap hotels, AYCE buffets, pizza places, steak places, - everything a hiker needs. I have no idea why some families will spend a weeks vacation there, but for a one nite in and out there is nothing wrong with the place.
Our resupply vehicle (my hiking partner's [who is my aunt] husband) is meeting us either at Fontana or Clingman, depending on which direction we go. I'm hoping for a sb trip so we can cover more miles in less days and continue south out of the park (and generally away from people) with fresh food and legs.
(and generally away from people)
I am expecting lots of people during this time as well. Unfortunately, I do not have many other dates available due to my work schedule.
----the areas around the shelters are like land minds / mole hills full of hiker waste! So be careful---what u dig into! Pretty gross when u think about it!
----the areas around the shelters are like land minds / mole hills full of hiker waste! So be careful---what u dig into! Pretty gross when u think about it!
The NC shelters are better then the Tennessee shelter in this regard.
a quick note about temperature....
although its way too early to predict temperatures and what not for that time period, this past weekend can be an example of what to prepare for.....
weekend of july 13, while i was not in the park but rather in the mountains just a range over, at an elevation of 4500 feet......
i didnt record temperatures during the day, but it was somewhat milder than some of the days we've been having but yet still hot and muggy......i was dripping sweat within an hour of my hike...
however, at night, when i reached the elevation of 4500, it got kinda cool.............enough so that i wish i had brought some sweat pants or some other long type pants......just had shorts and a fleece jacket.....i ended up putting my rain pants on to keep warm....
i should note that i was using a thermometer that was built into a watch, instead of a "real" thermometer, so there is obviously some degree of not being exactly accurate....
at 830 pm, the temperature was 65, and about every half hour or so, it would dip another degree til i went to bed at about 11 pm with a final reading of 60 degrees......
for a summer night, it got cool pretty quick......
but, once in tent, i got warm and the inside temperature quickly rose to 66 before i finally passed out......
Omaha_Ace
07-24-2013, 15:42
Another question - What is the best location to seach in accuweather or wunderground, etc. to get a decent forcast for the area around the trail?
I'm getting really excited. Finishing touches on my new Tyvek tarp/tent this week, and counting down the days until I can start reserving shelter spaces for my co-hiker and myself.
illabelle
07-24-2013, 15:51
Another question - What is the best location to seach in accuweather or wunderground, etc. to get a decent forcast for the area around the trail?
I'm getting really excited. Finishing touches on my new Tyvek tarp/tent this week, and counting down the days until I can start reserving shelter spaces for my co-hiker and myself.
I like this site for weather info:
http://www.sophiaknows.com/atdb/waypoints.php
Another question - What is the best location to seach in accuweather or wunderground, etc. to get a decent forcast for the area around the trail?
Once you get closer, I used this site for weather - http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Clingmans-Dome/forecasts/2025 You can pick different peaks and elevations to see what the temps will be. Have a great time!
Omaha_Ace
07-31-2013, 10:21
Ok. Shelter reservations are going to open for my dates (8/31 - 9/2) in a couple of days. My hiking partner and I are starting at Clingman and going south towards Fontana.
8/31 we will likely start at 2 pm and it looks like Siler's Bald is a good target for the short day (4.6 miles)
For day 2, I was thinking Spence Field, which is 14.7 miles from Siler's Bald.
There doesn't look to be a shelter between Mollie's Ridge and Fontana, which would make day 3 a 16 miler? Is that a pretty easy hike or is it a lot to bite off in one day? I'd hate to have to only go the 5.4 miles from Spence to Mollie and call it a day, but without knowing the terrain I don't want to bite way too much off, or if I'd be missing some great sidetracks by trying to kide too much in one jump.
Now, our "support car" will be meeting us at Fontana Dam to restock our food and swap out some gear. Once we cross the dam and are out of the park, are we free to camp anywhere along the trail?
It looks like south of the park we would get to Stecoah Gap on Hwy 143, which, if we DID say at Mollie's and did the 10.6 to Fontana on day 4 (9/4/2013) - we would have the option of being picked up again on the highway and dropped anywhere for a short dayhike. My plane leaves from ATL at 8pm on 9/5, so I'd need time to drive back to Atlanta, stopping somewhere at a cheap motel to shower and change into airplane clothes (aka - 'doesn't smell like a wild animal') and have plenty of time to check in and board. Thoughts / suggestions?
Gambit McCrae
07-31-2013, 12:27
Lots of great info here...wished I got the same response for my WV-MD plans (http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?97003-W-V-Maryland-Section-Hike) thread but oh well...My experiences in the smokies is as follows:
Allways see bears. Comin up from fontana is a mother humper and no water when i went until mollies ridge.
Rattlesnakes every trip along with the bears. Never has it rained(while on the AT) thru there, always very hot, very stagnent and sunny lots of sun!
My main advise is to collect as much water and consume it when you can cause I have gotten caught twice in smokies witha shortage of water.
HooKooDooKu
07-31-2013, 12:33
Ok. Shelter reservations are going to open for my dates (8/31 - 9/2) in a couple of days. My hiking partner and I are starting at Clingman and going south towards Fontana.
8/31 we will likely start at 2 pm and it looks like Siler's Bald is a good target for the short day (4.6 miles)
For day 2, I was thinking Spence Field, which is 14.7 miles from Siler's Bald.
There doesn't look to be a shelter between Mollie's Ridge and Fontana, which would make day 3 a 16 miler? Is that a pretty easy hike or is it a lot to bite off in one day? I'd hate to have to only go the 5.4 miles from Spence to Mollie and call it a day, but without knowing the terrain I don't want to bite way too much off, or if I'd be missing some great sidetracks by trying to kide too much in one jump.
Now, our "support car" will be meeting us at Fontana Dam to restock our food and swap out some gear. Once we cross the dam and are out of the park, are we free to camp anywhere along the trail?
It looks like south of the park we would get to Stecoah Gap on Hwy 143, which, if we DID say at Mollie's and did the 10.6 to Fontana on day 4 (9/4/2013) - we would have the option of being picked up again on the highway and dropped anywhere for a short dayhike. My plane leaves from ATL at 8pm on 9/5, so I'd need time to drive back to Atlanta, stopping somewhere at a cheap motel to shower and change into airplane clothes (aka - 'doesn't smell like a wild animal') and have plenty of time to check in and board. Thoughts / suggestions?
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/showthread.php?97207-GSMNP-8-31-13-to-9-5-2013
Double Post - See other post for my answers.
HooKooDooKu
07-31-2013, 12:35
...My main advise is to collect as much water and consume it when you can cause I have gotten caught twice in smokies witha shortage of water.
Rain has been pretty plentify this year. Any established watering holes should be plenty wet (unless the rain suddenly stops for the entire month of August).
Ox97GaMe
07-31-2013, 18:48
Omaha,
you are looking at a 4-5 hr drive from Fontana/Robinsville area to the ATL airport. Atlanta traffic is Horrific during rush hour, which usually starts around 3-3:30 each week day.
There is a shower at the Fontana Dam Shelter and at the NOC basecamp dining hall that are free. There are several small hotels in each of the towns as you drive back toward Atlanta (either through Franklin NC, or Blue Ridge GA). dont know if they would let you shower for a reasonable rate (less than full night stay).
Omaha_Ace
08-01-2013, 12:23
The ***NEW*** plan lol...
8/31 - 9 AM-ish landingin ATL. Drive up to the park. Clingman to Derrick's knob - 9.7M
9/1 Derrick Knob to Russell Field 9.2M
9/2 Russell Field to Fontana Dam - 13.8 DOWNHILL miles to meet our driver, a shower, fresh clothes and food!!!
9/3 Fontana to Brown Fork Gap shelter 10.7 miles
9/4 Brown Fork to 2-3 miles south of Sasafrass Shelter - Sasafrass is 9.1 miles, so let's call this stage 12M
9/5/13 From camp to Hwy 19/74 - about 3 miles left, after a quick breakfast and hike we should meet our driver on the highway by 11 am or so - find a quick shower and get into clean clothes and haul booty back to Atlanta.
Total on-trail milage - around 58. Awesome. Bring it on.
Drybones
08-01-2013, 13:19
Rain has been pretty plentify this year. Any established watering holes should be plenty wet (unless the rain suddenly stops for the entire month of August).
I only carried a 24 oz Smartwater bottle last year and had no problems except going from the NOC to Sassafras, was in the 80's, sunny, not a breeze, the water was gone in 30 minutes, and it's all up hill, that little waterfall about half way up was a real blessing, dont believe I could have made it without it. I would always drink as much as possible at each water source and fill my bottle and try to drink the bottle empty just before the next water source.
Omaha_Ace
08-01-2013, 13:29
I only carried a 24 oz Smartwater bottle last year and had no problems except going from the NOC to Sassafras, was in the 80's, sunny, not a breeze, the water was gone in 30 minutes, and it's all up hill, that little waterfall about half way up was a real blessing, dont believe I could have made it without it. I would always drink as much as possible at each water source and fill my bottle and try to drink the bottle empty just before the next water source.
I'm planning on having my 2L hydration bag plus a one liter pepsi bottle with a Sawyer filter, which I feel should give me plenty of capacity if I refill as I go.
Omaha_Ace
08-02-2013, 14:03
Backcountry Permit is completed - 8/31 at Derrick Knob and 9/1 at Russel Field. Then onward south out of the park!
Thanks for the help and advice everyone! Now it's just a few more weeks of working out and getting my gear laid out and I'll be off on my adventure. I'll try to post from the trail if I get any service and will post pictures when I get back to civilization. This community has been great and I look forward to following along for years to come!
daddytwosticks
08-02-2013, 15:21
Very informative thread. I'm hiking from Clingmans to the dam on 8/30 thru 9/1. Staying at Derrick's Knob and Mollie's Ridge. First time hiking the Smoky's and these threads have been a goldmine of information. Thanks. Omaha_Ace, I'll keep the light on for you at Derrick Knob Shelter. Have a great hike. :)
Omaha_Ace
08-02-2013, 15:50
Very informative thread. I'm hiking from Clingmans to the dam on 8/30 thru 9/1. Staying at Derrick's Knob and Mollie's Ridge. First time hiking the Smoky's and these threads have been a goldmine of information. Thanks. Omaha_Ace, I'll keep the light on for you at Derrick Knob Shelter. Have a great hike. :)
Rock on, brother!!! You enjoy yours as well!
Traffic Jam
08-02-2013, 16:14
I'm planning on having my 2L hydration bag plus a one liter pepsi bottle with a Sawyer filter, which I feel should give me plenty of capacity if I refill as I go.
Take something to scoop water into your Sawyer bag. Some of the water sources are shallow and it's difficult filling up the bag. Msg me if you have any problems, I live pretty close.
Drybones
08-02-2013, 16:43
I'm planning on having my 2L hydration bag plus a one liter pepsi bottle with a Sawyer filter, which I feel should give me plenty of capacity if I refill as I go.
I did also have a 2L Platypus I used for camp but never needed to carry water in it on the trail. The post suggesting to carry a scoop is a good idea, dont remember needed it in the section you're hiking but they're nice to have when needed. This is what I used, had a hole in the cap and fine mesh screen to filter out sediment, put your finger over the hole and scoop, remove finger and let water run into container.
23099
Omaha_Ace
08-02-2013, 16:43
Take something to scoop water into your Sawyer bag. Some of the water sources are shallow and it's difficult filling up the bag. Msg me if you have any problems, I live pretty close.
Hydration bag is a Camelback bag - I don't trust the Sawyer bags alone.
Omaha_Ace
08-02-2013, 16:46
I did also have a 2L Platypus I used for camp but never needed to carry water in it on the trail. The post suggesting to carry a scoop is a good idea, dont remember needed it in the section you're hiking but they're nice to have when needed. This is what I used, had a hole in the cap and fine mesh screen to filter out sediment, put your finger over the hole and scoop, remove finger and let water run into container.
23099
This is clever - I've done something similar using 0000 steel wool - I used to keep it as emergency tinder in my bag.
HooKooDooKu
08-21-2013, 20:34
There doesn't look to be a shelter between Mollie's Ridge and Fontana, which would make day 3 a 16 miler?
There's campsite #113 about 5 miles shy of the dam. It used to contain a shelter, but it was converted to a tent site around a decade ago. It's the only tent camping sight along the AT through GSMNP.
Where are you getting your mileage from? I'm planning a hike that includes Mollies' Ridge to Fontana, but I'm only coming up with a distance of 10 to 12 miles (just to the dam).
Seldomseen
08-22-2013, 20:50
Be a trail ninja thru the GSMNP.