Hiking Vermont section

[Nailbunniee777]

Hello,
This is my first post and I will be doing my very first hike on the AT in abiut a week. I will be hiking the Vermont section. I really would just love any advice/tips/info that folks would be willing to give about this section. I'm trying to decide now if I want to drive up and park or take a bus? This is completely new to me. I have hiked but never camping and hiking like this. I'm super excited but want to be prepared. Thanks in advance! :-)

[max patch]

When I section hiked VT I drove to Williamstown, MA and parked my car (left contact info with police) and hiked the short Pine Cobble Trail to the AT. Hiked to Hanover and took the bus back to Williamstown.

[Kerosene]

I think you'll enjoy the Vermont AT section. The (NOBO) climb from South Adams to the VT/MA state line can be a bit tough, especially if you don't have your trail legs and/or it's a hot/humid day. The (NOBO) climb up Glastenbury on Day 2 or 3 is pretty long, but the view from the observation tower at the summit is sublime.

Watch out for the porkies at Kid Gore Shelter.

You can re-supply in Manchester Center, but the hitch can take a bit of patience.

Take the opportunity to skinny dip in Little Rock Pond if the weather cooperates.

The Gov. Clement Shelter is pretty close to a road and is supposed to be a bit rundown. Consider staying somewhere else, especially on the weekend.

If it's a clear day, take the time to climb the side trail to the peak of Killington to get a lovely view of the Green Mountains.

The Inn at Long Trail typically has a number of very good beers on tap. I'm actually wearing my Long Trail Ale T-shirt as I type this!

There's a nice view of Lakota Lake from the accessible roof of The Lookout, about 13 miles trail north of Maine Junction.

The Norwich Inn (http://www.norwichinn.com/), which you'll pass as you enter Norwich, Vermont, has a great little brewpub on premise. They might also let you park there long-term if you want to get shuttled to the VT/MA state line

[yellowsirocco]

Vermont is awesome. Make sure to stop at Little Rock Pond like Kerosene mentioned.

[Jeff]

The Gov. Clement Shelter is pretty close to a road and is supposed to be a bit rundown. Consider staying somewhere else, especially on the weekend.

All good advice Kerosene...however, Gov Clement Shelter is no longer a party hangout since a bridge got washed out during Hurricane Irene. The Green Mountain Club has refurbished the shelter and it's in decent shape.

Further up the trail Cooper Lodge is falling into a state of disrepair...leaking on a rainy day!!

[Del Q]

Inn at the Long Trail is excellent, say hello to Okie for me.............food super, great bar, nice rooms, laundry facilities...........can tent across the street. HOT SPOT for sure.

[DavidNH]

some advice on hiking the Vermont section of the AT:

Assuming you are going from Williamstown, MA to Hanover, NH...

Allow two weeks time.
plan to stay at Little Rock Pond. There's a caretaker and a 5 or so $ fee but it's beautiful and great for swimming!
Plan to stay a night at Inn at Long Trail on Route 4. Very hiker friendly. Awesome breakfasts. Cost prob around 60 per night (I haven't been there in six years plus).
There's plenty of water. Don't carry more than two liters at a time. Bring a filter or some way to treat water.
Plan on getting muddy and dirty. There's just no way around it.

David

[R1ma]

All good advice Kerosene...however, Gov Clement Shelter is no longer a party hangout since a bridge got washed out during Hurricane Irene. The Green Mountain Club has refurbished the shelter and it's in decent shape.

Further up the trail Cooper Lodge is falling into a state of disrepair...leaking on a rainy day!!

Cooper lodge is quite beat up! If your closing in on there, push on to Pico or down to the Inn at the Long Trail. Pico is in much better shape, but it's just ~2.5 miles above (and almost 2000') rte 4. Pico is ~2.5 miles from Cooper Lodge.

[GoldenBear]

I have a lot to say, that I'll say in my blog. But I read your post and I need to say: Vermont has "extended" its mud season into July. Plain and simple, the last month has been quite rainy along the entire East Coast, and Vermont has not been spared. I hate to discourage anyone from visiting this great state, but there was mud -- sometimes ankle high soupy muck, and sometimes making the trail 15 feet wide -- just about the entire 50 miles (Manchester to Killington) I walked. I won't say that hikers are now "damaging" the Trail (which is why the Thru-Hikers Companion states "Avoid Vermont trails in 'mud season,' mid-Apr to Memorial Day. Hiking there in wet, sloppy conditions leads to serious trail erosion."), but your boots (and thus your socks) WILL be caked in silty mud the entire walk. When you state, "I will be doing my very first hike on the AT in abiut[sic] a week," I couldn't help but think, "I hope this won't be his last." I've done 780 miles of the Trail in section hikes, but the last four days have been by far the worst.

Also note that 1.5 miles of the Trail, just north of Upper Cold River Road, are closed till further notice -- which could mean YEARS. The Trail used to go over an auto bridge over a significant river, but that bridge was destroyed in Hurricane Irene in 2011. If you attempt to cross that river where the bridge used to be, my honest opinion is that you will die -- the water was a raging torrent just two days ago.
Also note that, just south of the Governor Clement Shelter, a hiker bridge over a creek was washed away, and there are no plans to rebuild it -- you will have to ford a stream of rushing water, no less than a foot deep. Did you know that six inches of rushing water can knock you over if you're not prepared? If you don't know how to ford a rushing stream, you'll have to learn in a week or hike elsewhere.

If you're determined to hike the miles I just came from tonight, feel free to PM me with specific questions, and I'll give you my honest opinion -- even if it may not be what you want to hear.

[GoldenBear]

Price for Inn at Long Trail


Plan to stay a night at Inn at Long Trail on Route 4. Very hiker friendly. Awesome breakfasts. Cost prob around 60 per night (I haven't been there in six years plus).


Last night I asked for a room, and got a quote of $83, which included tax, mandatory "tip," and breakfast. This was not the hiker rate (all such rooms were taken), but there is no guarantee that you'll be more blessed than I was.
The place might be worth $83, I don't know. But just be aware of what the price is now.

[Tractor]

Golden Bear is so right about the mud and swollen streams the past couple of weeks. We decided not to take any of the detours and did ford but that was our choice and it was a bit stressful. Had talked to a couple of southbounders who had done the same. The Inn at Long Trail is worthy! Hitching in/out of Rutland was easy enough and there is a $2 bus back & forth as well. Boots stayed wet the entire state. Be sure to empty stream sand often..... Oh. Do consider staying with Jeff at Green Mountain House in Manchester Center. A nice break especially given the weather of late. Thanks again Jeff!

[max patch]

inn at the Long Trail is a great place to stay; I've stayed there multiple times. However, just 3-4 miles up the trail is Mountain Meadows Lodge that I've also stayed at multiple times and is just as nice. Its a shame these 2 places are so close together and hikers have to make a choice between them.

[Nailbunniee777]

I am so greatful for all the information so far. I love everything I'm learning from this site. But man...I'm so unhappy to hear about Vermont being a bucket of mud! So let me ask now, for my first hike: go or postpone??? Let me hear what you seasoned guys n ladies have to say. I have no problem getting dirty, let me say that but I want to have fun and enjoy this first time!

[Snowleopard]

If you're in RI, you know the weather we've been getting -- hot, very humid, many thunderstorms with torrential rain, and warnings of flash floods. I think VT has been getting more rain than MA or RI from the same storm systems, so the mud warning makes sense. Also, the bugs here have been getting worse and worse and that's probably true further north.

If you're fine with heat and humidity, perhaps go from Salisbury CT north. Personally, in this heat I sit in front of my AC and whimper. If you could postpone the trip a week, I'd do that hoping the heat spell breaks. if I were hiking for a few weeks now I'd go to northern NH or Maine (a little cooler than further south). I'm not sure how the mud would compare in NH and ME; the mud isn't bad here (n. central Mass) but the bugs are awful here now.

[SwissGuy]

Nailbuniee, I'm a fellow rhody and going to be doing vt soon, what are your actual planned dates?

[Nailbunniee777]

SwissGuy, my date to start the trip is July 20. I have 2 weeks available to play around with and that is all. Vacation time is limited and so I want to di what I can with the time I have or it looks like I would have to wait until next year. To me, the more I think about it there is no hard decision anymore. I will do my best and keep my spirits high!

[Ecotyro]

Nailbunniee... so glad I found your posts! My partner and I are planning a 6-day section hike on the Long Trail in VT starting on the 19th. Now I'll be better prepared for the trail conditions everyone's spoken about. Although, being "prepared" for your boots to sink up to your ankles at every step is more psychological than anything! Keep your spirits up, enjoy your adventure and go with the flow... try not to have too many expectations and you'll have a great time no matter what comes! (btw... it seems like better weather headed for VT at the end of this week!)

[Nailbunniee777]

Ecotyro, I hope you both have a great hike! I think just like everything else in life it really will be in how you decide to handle it mentally. A lot of less pleasant things can be turned around with the right attitude. I plan on enjoying my time away from my everyday routine and escaping traffic, cell phones, drs, etc. I'm excited! :-)

[kidchill]

Awww, man, I'm super jealous...and, I was planning on taking 2wks off in October to enjoy the leaves, now I'm thinking about rehiking the VT section of the trail! Here's some things I remember from VT! I was SOBO thru last year and was in VT last week August, first week September. There was NO mud in Vermud! It may be different for you because of timing. Hanover, where Dartmouth is was an awesome college town! It was expensive to stay in town, but the Sunset Inn is 2miles south on Main St and was fair priced and nice! If you have the guide book, West Hartford is literally on the trail and you can get some food supplies there, as well as eat! Killington is a little town that has a general store for resupply (also has subs and alcohol), a BnB, Long trail Inn, and another motel with a pool out front (it's right next to the general store!). Now, Long trail has the town pub (irish), which is nice, but when I stayed there it was a small room with NO TV! I ended up doing a zero there, but stayed the next night in the motel with the pool. The price was a few dollars more, but it was a full-size room with 2 beds, TV, fridge, etc. I would honestly recommend staying there! The BnB was like $100 for the night and was too prissy for me anyways. If you're interested in trying something new, you can always take the bus to Rutland and hang out at that moon place (I'm not sure I fully understand it, but it's like a hippy-commune with a strong religious base)...some people that stayed there said they love it (if it's your kinda thing). North Claredon has a general store (gas station that you can resupply or get beer), but unfortunately I thing the train restarunt closed, so plan on it being there. There's a gorge area with a suspension bridge nearby that we camped at for 2 days. It was super cool, but there was a family literally living there at the time (kinda shady), and the lady at the general store will tell you the cops have been down there more then once (something about a guy with a machete, threatening people)...so, if you stay there, try to be with a group or at least a partner and watch your gear! Manchester Center was a cool town, but it's preppy, so it's kinda pricey, as well as the motels in the area. There is a hostel/BnB that's reasonable, but if you stay there, call in advance! I didn't, and didn't get to stay! There is a taxi service in Manchester Ctr if you need it. If you get the Russian guy, he's super nice and can help you find a cheaper motel on the outskirts of town. If you goto Bennington (again a cool town), please, for the love of God don't stay at the Autumn Inn motel. They tried to give me a room that was absolutely HORRIBLE! And when I asked for a refund she said she couldn't because I used my card. I left and ate the cost (I meant to call the bank to dispute the charge but never did). I could explain the state of the room, but it would take another post to do so. Bennington also has a taxi service if needed. It may be flat-rate as well.

In terms of the trail...The Green Mountains are absolutely beautiful! You WILL have bugs, especially around dusk. There is some climbing, and I remember the trail around Killington was fairly challenging. Also, I'm pretty sure there was water everywhere, so you shouldn't need to carry much. Enjoy your time out there!

[FarmerChef]

I'm headed up that way to do a section with my family starting the 19th as well. Perhaps we'll run into each other.

With the massive heat wave this week, do folks expect the trail to firm up any or will it still be primarily muck? Looks pretty dry all week but roasting hot. Perhaps that could bake out some of the moisture?

p.s. one tip to clean muddy shoes is to wear them while fording the streams (safely - don't ford a stream you're not confident in your abilities in just to clean your shoes, of course :) ).

[Slo-go'en]

With the massive heat wave this week, do folks expect the trail to firm up any or will it still be primarily muck? Looks pretty dry all week but roasting hot. Perhaps that could bake out some of the moisture.

Nope, takes more then a few sunny days to do that. The soils are super saturated and water will be perculating out of the ground for some time. Anyway, more rain and T storms are going to arrive next week. The weekend might be good, but it's still to early to tell for sure...

[Slo-go'en]

p.s. one tip to clean muddy shoes is to wear them while fording the streams (safely - don't ford a stream you're not confident in your abilities in just to clean your shoes, of course :) ).

You should always wear shoes fording streams. You might want to take your socks off first though if it's deep.

[FarmerChef]

You should always wear shoes fording streams. You might want to take your socks off first though if it's deep.

Good point. You never know what's on the bottom of the riverbed. I was trout fishing and more than once caught a snag under the water that I just couldn't get undone. Knowing that I had a couple of hooks under the water made me sure to wear my shoes while wading. After all, I certainly wasn't the first to fish that section of the creek. Plus there's always the risk of metal cans or broken glass, etc.

[Mountain Mike]

I use my insoles inside dirty socks for fords. Keeps boots dry & washes the socks out.22741

[Kerosene]

I use my insoles inside dirty socks for fords. Keeps boots dry & washes the socks out.22741That's a puddle, not a ford! ;)

[Just Bill]

I was thinking August, myself- normally a good safe bet- This year from all I've heard here and other places- waiting won't do anyone any good. I'd be interested to hear otherwise- but it seems like you might not be clear of the mud until September this season. Regarding the fords- you guys could also just wear tennis shoes- then you don't have to trash your $15 a pair socks. Or just give it up- your boots are going to get soaked, might as well get a wash-off in every once in a while.

[Mountain Mike]

That's a puddle, not a ford! ;)
Damn cold puddle! Snow melt fed. Not bad after your legs go numb. Only problem is the stinging returns when they warm up.

[FarmerChef]

Damn cold puddle! Snow melt fed. Not bad after your legs go numb. Only problem is the stinging returns when they warm up.

Oh yeah. I've done some snowmelt in Montana and that is a whole different experience. Perfectly hot sunny day and then, bam, walking through an ice chest. +1 on the stinging.

Weather is looking solid for the next week, at least as far as precipitation is concerned. I know it won't make much difference in the muck but at least it might go from black bean soup to chocolate puddin to peanut butter fudge. Will be on the trail this Saturday. Looks like we'll need our ponchos that day.