Day hike out of Harpers Ferry - NOBO or SOBO?

[RangerZ]

I'm visiting the Antietam battlefield in October. I'm planning on adding some time and visiting Harpers Ferry. I'm thinking about day hiking out of HF to the first shelter and returning to HF (before dusk so I can get my car out of the visitor center parking lot).

The distance from the north end of the US 340 bridge is about the same - 31.2 miles round trip. It's more of a climb south to David Lesser Memorial Shelter than it is north to Ed Garvey Shelter.

Which is the "better" hike - north or south? I'm open to what is "better". I'll probably make better time on the flat near the river going north, than on the hills going south.

Thanks.

[Teacher & Snacktime]

I'd rather make the climb to Weverton Cliffs than a descent from them.

[Nutbrown]

North does take you to the cliffs... very pretty. The trek up isn't that bad. I've not gone on the south side yet.

[Mrs Baggins]

I've done each section several times. I only go northbound from the Lesser shelter and southbound from the Garvey shelter because those directions avoid the climbs toward each one. Scenery-wise, though, and if you have to leave a car at the VC, then going northbound to Garvey is the better choice because you do have Weverton Rocks as the payoff at the end of that long switchback climb. Southbound to Lesser doesn't offer any vistas other than the view from the bridge as you cross over it. There are a lot more very rocky stretches headed toward Lesser, too. Take plenty of water whichever way you go. It's a .4 mile steep downhill to the spring at Garvey, and .2 to the one at Lesser, though not as steep. Of course you'll be walking along side the river on the C&O Canal towpath if you head to/from Garvey but getting close enough to get water from it could be dangerous in spots - fast moving water and lots of slick rocks. If you opt for Garvey you can always leave your car at the Weverton Road Park n Ride at the base of the trail and cut a few miles off of your trip. When you come back down the switchback your car is right there waiting.

[FarmerChef]

Ranger - I've done both sections many times. North out of town would be better with the climb up Weverton Cliffs on fresh legs as opposed to the other way around. Plus the view at the top is worth the climb and much better than the "no view" option southbound. I'm curious about your mileage calculation. You mention it being 31.2 miles round trip from 340 to either shelter? Maybe I'm reading that wrong. According to AWOL's guide, it's 14.4 round trip from the north end of the 340 bridge to Ed Garvey and back again. Keep in mind that if you park in the Visitor's Center parking lot you can take a shuttle down into town. It's a short walk from the drop off point to the RR bridge/viaduct over the Potomac. It's only 6.1 miles from there to Garvey and back and there is ice cream waiting for you at the Swiss Miss Dairy just up the street. It's a nice treat after you've earned it ;) Do pay attention to the bus schedule and be sure not to miss the last one. Otherwise, it's another couple of miles walk back up the trail along Virginius Island and up to the parking lot. Have fun!

[fredmugs]

I would head north as well. If you haven't been to Antietam make sure you walk down to Antietam Creek. Just standing there and knowing what happened it's hard to comprehend how those generals could lead their men into a slaughter. Same thing with Gettysburg.

[RangerZ]

Thanks to all, the consensus is to go north.

I like the idea of leaving from the Weverton Park and Ride, it shortens the route by 4.3 miles. Gives me more time and removes any restrictions on my time.

I'm curious about the mileage calculation also. My only excuse is that it was late and I was tired, I was temporarily misoriented. Correct would be 7.3 miles north and 8.3 miles south from the 340 bridge, only 3 miles north from the Park and Ride. (It is about 31.2 miles round trip between the two shelters.)

I'll be in HF on Sunday afternoon, 20 Oct, and on the trail on Monday the 21st.


Caution - shameless plug below:

I'm going to Antietam with the Penn State alumni association. Penn State has a Civil War Era Center, http://richardscenter.psu.edu// . Every year they sponsor a trip - recent past years have been Gettysburg, Vicksburg, the Wilderness, Second Manassas, etc. You pay your money and they take care of you from Thursday noon to Sunday noon - rooms, meals, bus, snacks, drinks, etc. This year's trip is being led by the retired NPS chief of history from the Vicksburg Battlefield and a retired brigadier. They do a better staff ride than some of the ones that my Uncle took me on. Take a look if you're interested.

[lambsknoll]

Alternatives that you might consider:

Antietam has some nice trails especially near burnside bridge and along the creek. You can easily do a 10 mile hike. It is a beautiful place with lots of wide open views accross rolling terrain. Very different then the green tunnel.

Starting from HF, I would recommend MD heights and/or the blue trail to cow hoof rock on the VA side. Both provide, IMO, much better views than Weverton.

[mak1277]

Starting from HF, I would recommend MD heights ... much better views than Weverton.


I wouldn't agree with this. I thought the views from Weaverton were much better than the view from MD Heights. You get the overview of HF itself from Maryland Heights, but Weaverton gives much grander long views of the mountains and river in both directions.

OP also mentioned skipping the tow path section. While it's a nice way to cut out miles if you don't have the time, I wouldn't be too quick to skip it. It's a nice river walk and the walk back into HF over the bridge is a good one. Plus you get ice cream when you get back, as FarmerChef mentioned.

[QiWiz]

Going N you used to be able to get a nice view back towards HF and the rivers. I think you still can. Spectacular on a nice fall day. I think this was from Weaverton Cliffs.

[RangerZ]

Depending on the time, I may walk back on the tow path to see some of it. I've moved off the river trails here because they're flat, now I risk my life on some of the mountain bike trails (the trails aren't dangerous but the bikers can be).

For various reasons, ice cream isn't the greatest reward for me.


Again thanks all.

[RangerZ]

Thanks all again.

I ended up visiting HF on Wednesday, stopped at the ATC, then walked down to the Point, then back up the trail to the ATC blue blaze trail.

Sunday afternoon I reconned the Weverton park and ride, then walked the towpath to HF (did get ice cream) and back to Weverton.

Monday I walked from the Weverton park and ride to Crampton's Gap and back. Too foggy in the AM for the view from the Weverton Cliffs but stopped in the PM. Stopped in at Ed Garvey shelter to check it out. Thought the switchbacks going up South Mountain were worse, rockier etc, than they seemed going back down. It would be nice if the PATC would flatten out all the pointy up tripping rocks on the trail. :)

Saw the goats just north of Ed Garvey shelter. Does anybody know the story of the memorial to Glenn Caveney located about halfway?

Weather was great, clear and cool.

[FarmerChef]

Thanks for letting us know how your trip went.