View Full Version : Best 80-mile section in Virginia or PA?
oliander
08-11-2005, 02:33
Hi all,
In May 06 I'll have the opportunity to section-hike a piece of the AT.
I'll be in Pittsburgh, so I'm looking for an AT section that is just a few hours driving distance from there. That narrows my options to PA and northern/central Virginia.
WHAT IS THE GREATEST 60-100 MILE SECTION IN THIS AREA, IN TERMS OF SCENERY? Though I'm an experienced section-hiker (I do a rugged PCT section every summer), I will be totally new to the AT part of the world. I want to see the best.
There is a lot of info on Shenandoah N.P., but I want to also hear about some more remote areas. It appears that people on this forum seem to like: Mt. Rogers, Cold Mountain, Roan. (Are any of those places too far south in VA to drive to?) For historical reasons, maybe Harpers Ferry (though some people don't care for what's north of there). I'm open to creating a loop hike instead of an AT one-way. Again, the most important criterion is great scenery.
Should I forget PA and high-tail it to Virginia?
Thanks!
Oliander
The Solemates
08-11-2005, 08:21
Hi all,
In May 06 I'll have the opportunity to section-hike a piece of the AT.
I'll be in Pittsburgh, so I'm looking for an AT section that is just a few hours driving distance from there. That narrows my options to PA and northern/central Virginia.
WHAT IS THE GREATEST 60-100 MILE SECTION IN THIS AREA, IN TERMS OF SCENERY? Though I'm an experienced section-hiker (I do a rugged PCT section every summer), I will be totally new to the AT part of the world. I want to see the best.
There is a lot of info on Shenandoah N.P., but I want to also hear about some more remote areas. It appears that people on this forum seem to like: Mt. Rogers, Cold Mountain, Roan. (Are any of those places too far south in VA to drive to?) For historical reasons, maybe Harpers Ferry (though some people don't care for what's north of there). I'm open to creating a loop hike instead of an AT one-way. Again, the most important criterion is great scenery.
Should I forget PA and high-tail it to Virginia?
Thanks!
Oliander
Its a further drive, but the area before and after Damascus is really beautiful. Id do 50 miles South and 50 miles North of Damascus for your 100 mile trip.
Of course, a little further North is Gods Thumbprint, also Sinking Creek Valley, catawba/mcafees knob/tinker cliffs is great.
I think the Shenandoahs are overrated, mainly because there are way too many people, but I have only been on the AT. I know there are lots of off the beaten AT trails that would be nice to do, and it would be easy to do a loop.
jimmyjob
08-11-2005, 08:31
i will second the trip around damasus....the grayson highlands are absolutely beautiful...and the wild horses just add to the whole experience......
why not consider the pen-mar trip and into PA thats not a bad hike pretty places and would not be that far out of the way:dance ky
Sorcerer
08-11-2005, 08:48
I agree the Mt. Rogers area is nice, but from Pittsuburg you're looking at 8-10 hours of driving to make it that far.
I'd think about going to Front Royal and heading north. The terrain is relatively mild, you get some historical places, a couple of really neat hostels (Bear's Den and Blackburn Center), the ATC headquarters, the neat state parks in PA (Pen-Mar and Caledonia).
I'm afraid you're going to be a little dissapointed with the AT if all you are looking for is great views. At least south of New Hampshire (I haven't been North of Hanover yet, but I hear it gets more and more beautiful). There are several really great views along the way, but if you get more than 2 in a hundred mile stretch you're blessed (at least south of NH).
God's Thumbprint, McAffee Knob, and Tinker Cliffs are all beautiful, but if I recall they're not all within 100 miles of each other (no book here at work).
The Solemates
08-11-2005, 08:49
Or you could do the Laurel Highlands Trail. Not the AT, but a pretty trail nonetheless and its really close to Pitt. And Im pretty certain youll be the only one out there, except for maybe on a saturday. i have family in the area...nice area.
http://www.shol.com/featheredprop/lhht_info.htm
http://friends.backcountry.net/lht/plan.htm
http://www.kta-hike.org/laurel.htm
http://www.ncweb.com/~rshroy/laurelht.htm
http://www.wamonline.com/spring2004/backpacking.htm
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~shaw/FWEparts/LHilands.htm
..plus more
The Solemates
08-11-2005, 08:54
I agree the Mt. Rogers area is nice, but from Pittsuburg you're looking at 8-10 hours of driving to make it that far.
I'd think about going to Front Royal and heading north. The terrain is relatively mild, you get some historical places, a couple of really neat hostels (Bear's Den and Blackburn Center), the ATC headquarters, the neat state parks in PA (Pen-Mar and Caledonia).
I'm afraid you're going to be a little dissapointed with the AT if all you are looking for is great views. At least south of New Hampshire (I haven't been North of Hanover yet, but I hear it gets more and more beautiful). There are several really great views along the way, but if you get more than 2 in a hundred mile stretch you're blessed (at least south of NH).
God's Thumbprint, McAffee Knob, and Tinker Cliffs are all beautiful, but if I recall they're not all within 100 miles of each other (no book here at work).
No way. Ive driven that route a dozen times. You can get to Damascus from Pittsburgh in 5.5 hours easy.
And McAfee Knob is less than 5 miles from Tinker Cliffs. Gods Thumbprint is about 130 miles south of there. I wasnt saying they were close together...just giving suggestions.
Kerosene
08-11-2005, 10:55
I haven't done the 100 miles around Damascus, although I've heard that the Highlands are beautiful (I've done everything north of Atkins into New Hampshire in sections).
Probably my best hike for scenery was the 113 miles from Buena Vista (US-60) south around Roanoke to Craig Creek Valley. You get to see the Punchbowl Shelter from National Geographic fame, James River Face Wilderness, The Guillotine, Apple Orchard Mountain, Tinker Cliffs, McAfee Knob, and Dragon's Tooth. Probably the most scenic stretch with some of the best views I've seen to date.
Why not go from the James River/US 501 to Waynesboro VA? It's 77 miles of pretty scenary and you won't deal with the gross crowds you get with the Grayson Highlands and The Shenendoahs. Plus you finish off at Rockfish Gap which is right on I-64, an easy way to get back up to Pitt. This stretch includes Punchbowl, Little Irish Creek, Cold Mtn, The Priest, The Tye River, Mau-Har Trail (to add a few more miles), 3 Ridges and more.
Kerosene
08-11-2005, 13:28
Why not go from the James River/US 501 to Waynesboro VA? It's 77 miles of pretty scenary and you won't deal with the gross crowds you get with the Grayson Highlands and The Shenendoahs. Plus you finish off at Rockfish Gap which is right on I-64, an easy way to get back up to Pitt. This stretch includes Punchbowl, Little Irish Creek, Cold Mtn, The Priest, The Tye River, Mau-Har Trail (to add a few more miles), 3 Ridges and more.Also Spy Rock, Tar Jacket Ridge, and Three Ridges are in this stretch!
Sorcerer
08-11-2005, 13:36
No way. Ive driven that route a dozen times. You can get to Damascus from Pittsburgh in 5.5 hours easy.
And McAfee Knob is less than 5 miles from Tinker Cliffs. Gods Thumbprint is about 130 miles south of there. I wasnt saying they were close together...just giving suggestions.I'd like to ride in your airplane when you make it to Damascus from Pittsburg in 5.5 hours! However, my estimation was quite a bit higher than reality too!
Total Est. Time: 6 hours, 30 minutes Total Est. Distance: 410.63 miles (from Mapquest).
I didn't say that you said (insert circular sounding logic here) those 3 places in Virginia were close together. I was just agreeing they were beautiful.....but they didn't all fall within 100 miles of each other.
I'd do the section south of Waynesboro again too..........it is a pretty area and you can stay at the Dutch Haus in Montebello, VA. Tell Louis and Earl that Neal from TN sent ya! (I slacked packed from the James River to Waynesboro out of the Dutch House :banana ...it makes the Priest and Three Ridges a much easier hike!)
oliander
08-11-2005, 13:50
Okay. This has all been of great help to me. Thanks everyone! Is there a best book and/or a set of maps that would show me these AT sections (in VA and possibly PA)? I'd like to get oriented about where all these places are. Thanks!
Oliander
Alligator
08-11-2005, 13:55
Also Spy Rock, Tar Jacket Ridge, and Three Ridges are in this stretch!That's a nice section, good suggestion A-Train. Spy Rock has really cool views. Anybody passing that way should take a few minutes to check it out.
I used the AT maps coupled with the Virginia Gazetteer to plan my hikes in that area. The Gazetteer is usually $20 though, so unless you're planning multiple sections, you might not want to spring for it.
The Solemates
08-11-2005, 14:11
I'd like to ride in your airplane when you make it to Damascus from Pittsburg in 5.5 hours! However, my estimation was quite a bit higher than reality too!
Total Est. Time: 6 hours, 30 minutes Total Est. Distance: 410.63 miles (from Mapquest).
I didn't say that you said (insert circular sounding logic here) those 3 places in Virginia were close together. I was just agreeing they were beautiful.....but they didn't all fall within 100 miles of each other.
I'd do the section south of Waynesboro again too..........it is a pretty area and you can stay at the Dutch Haus in Montebello, VA. Tell Louis and Earl that Neal from TN sent ya! (I slacked packed from the James River to Waynesboro out of the Dutch House :banana ...it makes the Priest and Three Ridges a much easier hike!)
doing 5-10 mph over, i can easily make it to abingdon, VA (on 81) in 5.0-5.5 hrs. from there, its another 15-30 min into damascus.
oliander
08-12-2005, 14:08
Okay. If I do that 77-mile section from James River to Waynesboro, how strenuous is the route? I have heard that the AT in general has more constant elevation gains and losses than the PCT, but of course it must vary a lot depending on which section you are doing. Just trying to decide if I should plan for 10-mile days vs. 15-mile days. Thanks!
Jack Tarlin
08-12-2005, 14:15
There are a few good climbs in this section (from Johns Hollow shelter up to Rocky Row is one, as well as the climb up to Bald Knob from US60. Also, you have the Priest and the hike from VA56 up to the top of the Three Ridges).
Howewer, if you're in good shape and aren't packing too much, I think you'll easily average at least 10 miles a day in this section, and probably better.
I think you'll handle it easily in six to seven days.
Kerosene
08-12-2005, 14:17
The James River to Waynesboro section is very nice. You'll certainly encounter some significant climbs (Three Ridges comes to mind going NOBO), but all in all I think it's a lovely section of trail. I suggest that you start with 3 or so 10-12 mile days and ramp it up to 15-18 as your joints warm up. There are so many variables as to who can do what mileage that it's hard to be specific, but most middle-aged males (okay, you're only 37) in reasonable physical condition carrying 30 pounds or so should be able to crank out mid-teen days in this section if you have enough daylight hours.
Hi Oliander,
I too am looking for a trail in Virginia - I would be interested in hearing which one you chose and what you thought of it?
Many thanks,
Daniel
BlackCloud
07-21-2006, 08:56
Also Spy Rock, Tar Jacket Ridge, and Three Ridges are in this stretch!
Mt. Rogers/Grayson Highlands is actually less then 20 miles of excellent hiking. The rest of that area is BORING!
Anything from Rockfish Gap (so. end of Shenandoah NP) down to Blacksburg is an excellent choice w/ few people, great scenery, and some rugged hiking.
Many consider this stretch to be the best the AT has to offer.
I say White Mtns of NH......
AdamantiumKid
07-21-2006, 10:34
On this same topic (sorta) my outfitter was recommending a 3-4 day hile around the area in VA of the Priest. I know this is in overrated territory, but it's close to family in Lynchburg, VA where we could stay overnight before heading out on the trail for 4 days. How good of a job would this area do to at least give someone a taste of what it's like?
AdamantiumKid
07-21-2006, 10:35
Ah just looked at the map and saw this is the area BlackCloud is talking about. LOL.
No way. Ive driven that route a dozen times. You can get to Damascus from Pittsburgh in 5.5 hours easy.
Really? Using what route? At what speed?
I really want to know, as I typically have to do this exact drive in reverse once per year. It usually takes me at least eight hours.
From Damascus, I've gone up I-81 to I-70 to the PA Turnpike, then west to Monroeville to exit for Pittsburgh. I've also gone up I-81 to I-77 to US 19 to I-79 to whatever interstate # Pittsburgh's Parkway system is into town. No way could I do either in 5.5 hours. Is there a better way? What's your secret?
Back to the original post: While the section before and after Damascus is my favorite on the entire AT, it is a bit of a stretch to call it close to Pittsburgh.
I would look for an 80-mile stretch in VA anywhere between Trout Creek and Rockfish Gap that you like the description and logistics for. The nearly 80 miles from the James River to Rockfish Gap are mostly superb and the logistics shouldn't be that tough.
On this same topic (sorta) my outfitter was recommending a 3-4 day hile around the area in VA of the Priest. I know this is in overrated territory, but it's close to family in Lynchburg, VA where we could stay overnight before heading out on the trail for 4 days. How good of a job would this area do to at least give someone a taste of what it's like?that will give ya a good taste go check it out!ky
BlackCloud
07-21-2006, 11:15
On this same topic (sorta) my outfitter was recommending a 3-4 day hile around the area in VA of the Priest. I know this is in overrated territory, but it's close to family in Lynchburg, VA where we could stay overnight before heading out on the trail for 4 days. How good of a job would this area do to at least give someone a taste of what it's like?
It is prototypical....
The Solemates
07-21-2006, 11:45
Really? Using what route? At what speed?
I really want to know, as I typically have to do this exact drive in reverse once per year. It usually takes me at least eight hours.
From Damascus, I've gone up I-81 to I-70 to the PA Turnpike, then west to Monroeville to exit for Pittsburgh. I've also gone up I-81 to I-77 to US 19 to I-79 to whatever interstate # Pittsburgh's Parkway system is into town. No way could I do either in 5.5 hours. Is there a better way? What's your secret?
I used to do this route several times a year when I lived in the Carolinas, as we have family near Pittsburgh. We could make it from upstate SC to pittsburgh in 8 hrs. We could make it from SW VA to pittsburgh in 5 hrs, easy. So either you are driving like a grandpa, or you are not taking the correct route. We still drive this route maybe once a year to date.
Mapquest says it takes 5 hrs, 55 min from damascus to pittsburgh via the route we typically took:
http://www.mapquest.com/directions/main.adp?go=1&do=nw&rmm=1&un=m&cl=EN&ct=NA&rsres=1&1ffi=&1l=&1g=&1pl=&1v=&1n=&2ffi=&2l=&2g=&2pl=&2v=&2n=&1pn=&1a=&1c=pittsburgh&1s=pa&1z=&2pn=&2a=&2c=damascus&2s=va&2z=&r=f
Given the fact that mapquest always calculates the route based on the speed limit, and the fact that I typically average 5-10 mph over the speed limit, it is conceivable that a 5 hr time frame is normal.
I used to do this route several times a year when I lived in the Carolinas, as we have family near Pittsburgh. We could make it from upstate SC to pittsburgh in 8 hrs. We could make it from SW VA to pittsburgh in 5 hrs, easy. So either you are driving like a grandpa, or you are not taking the correct route. We still drive this route maybe once a year to date.
Mapquest says it takes 5 hrs, 55 min from damascus to pittsburgh via the route we typically took:
http://www.mapquest.com/directions/main.adp?go=1&do=nw&rmm=1&un=m&cl=EN&ct=NA&rsres=1&1ffi=&1l=&1g=&1pl=&1v=&1n=&2ffi=&2l=&2g=&2pl=&2v=&2n=&1pn=&1a=&1c=pittsburgh&1s=pa&1z=&2pn=&2a=&2c=damascus&2s=va&2z=&r=f
Given the fact that mapquest always calculates the route based on the speed limit, and the fact that I typically average 5-10 mph over the speed limit, it is conceivable that a 5 hr time frame is normal.
I've done it very similarly to this, and it's aways taken longer. I especially seem to get into heavy traffic around Morgantown, and of course Pittsburgh. Also, my destination is in Pittsburgh's east suburbs so I guess that accounts for at least a half hour (or longer if there's traffic).
And on the interstates, where possible, i average at least 70MPH. Grandpa speed? :-)
oliander
07-21-2006, 16:35
I ended up going to Otter Creek Wilderness, WEST Virginia.
It was a big disappointment. The rhododendrons were not yet in bloom and the water flow was low owing to low rainfall this spring. It was like wandering through the forest in the Blair Witch Project, with the occasional local redneck.
Next time I will drive all the way to Virginia even though it's a longer drive.
[quote=oliander]I ended up going to Otter Creek Wilderness, WEST Virginia.
It was a big disappointment. The rhododendrons were not yet in bloom and the water flow was low owing to low rainfall this spring. It was like wandering through the forest in the Blair Witch Project, with the occasional local redneck.
Next time I will drive all the way to Virginia even though it's a longer drive. hate to hear that I met some people out of oakland when i was down in NC couple wks ago!ky
I've done it very similarly to this, and it's aways taken longer. I especially seem to get into heavy traffic around Morgantown, and of course Pittsburgh. Also, my destination is in Pittsburgh's east suburbs so I guess that accounts for at least a half hour (or longer if there's traffic).
And on the interstates, where possible, i average at least 70MPH. Grandpa speed? :-)
From the Pittsburgh Airport to Wytheville, VA is always a 5 hour trip for me (regardless of speed/traffic...spooky:D ) I-79 to US 19 to I-77. I'm not sure of the time between Wytheville and Damascus...but I'm sure it's more than 1/2 hour....I drive fast most of the trip...need to slow down in Summerville, WV on US 19, talk about a speed trap....