View Full Version : Pack construction/loading
First post! This site is absolutely awesome - there are so many knowledgeable people here! I actually have two questions:
I have been making some prototype packs. I have made a G-4 clone, a Golite Gust clone, and a couple of small 1500 ci day packs. They have all come out fairly well (I also have a *real* G-4 to compare to). My question is: how do I make (or load) the packs to avoid the cylindrical shape? I don't really like the outside pad storage pockets to hold my pad because the load gets pushed away from me, messing with my center of gravity. So I use a Z-rest rolled inside the pack to server as frame and padding. This obviously results in a cylindrical pack. The main problem with this seems to be at the waist - the cylinder actually feels nice at my shoulders (I'm a skinny, bony guy, so it kind if nests right between my shoulder blades), but it seems to compromise the effectiveness of my hip belt. Specifically, when the hip belt is used, the cylinder shape pushes the hip belt attachment points further back than my waist, which prevents the pack from sort of wrapping around my waist and being snug. The Gust clone I made is concave (theoretically matching the contour of my back) where the back and bottom join, but it won't hold a concave shape once loaded. Any suggestions for construction or loading?
My second question is: is the cheap tulle that you can buy at any fabric store a rough equivalent to no-see-um mesh? So far, I have been able to stick with lucky funds of 1.1 and 2.2 oz ripstop - silicon and non - from Walmart, and get a bit of a thrill out of being a cheapskate.
Thanks so much, all.
very rough! Unless the fabric you are talking about is much different than the tulle I am thining of that people use for crenolins, yours has much larger holes, is much stiffer, and will never keep mosquitoes out. If you are using it for parts of the pack rather than bug deterant, I don't think it will withstand much pressure as it rips fairly easily. Whithout actually knowing more about the fabric you are refering to it is difficult to say for sure. I wish our Walmart had nylon cheap. Others seem to find silnylon on the closeout shelf, but I don't even think they carry it as a regular item at our store.
are you planning to hike on the AT or around the park somewhere?:dance ky
peter_pan
08-17-2005, 11:41
If you switch to a blue pad, cut to the length equal to the inside perimeter of the pack you can score it with "V" cuts at each corner, ie a pack 12x9 would hve score lines at 12, 21,33 and be 42 in overall length ( only make the v as deep as 2/3-3/4 the thickness of the pad...also the with of the top of the V cut sould equal or exceed the thickness oof the pad....Three such scores and your pad will form a box sleeve for yor pack...want a longer pad go an extra side or two, REMEMBER to make the sections proprortionately smaller on any second row sections.
Pan
Gonzo - I think you are right. I have heard exactly one reference by someone that "it's the same thing!" but wanted to have that officially debunked here. What you said makes perfect sense.
kyhipo - don't have the time for an AT thru-hike (besides, I'd do the CDT first :D), but I am planning a 2-week, 200 mile CDT or Colorado Trail section next summer, in addition to multiple shorter duration trips. If your question was leading to a comment on the durability of the tulle fabric, I think that I know your answer ;). If your question was about the pack loading, I'd still love your input.
Peter Pan - I had thought of something like that, but hadn't tried it with the blue pad yet. My segmented z-rest sections seem to correspond roughly to the dimensions of my pack, but it didn't do much to hold a box shape. But heck, the Wally-world pad is a whopping $5. I'll probably pick one up and do exactly as you describe. I bet your method would help me avoid having the pad try to stay rolled/coiled when I'm trying to keep it flat on the ground.
Thanks all,
Ben
My second question is: is the cheap tulle that you can buy at any fabric store a rough equivalent to no-see-um mesh? So far, I have been able to stick with lucky funds of 1.1 and 2.2 oz ripstop - silicon and non - from Walmart, and get a bit of a thrill out of being a cheapskate.
The stuff sold at WalMart as Tulle is a fair bug netting material (I've used some on experimental hammocks), but probably not totally bugproof. (Some people have used this material for making mesh stuffsacks.) The stuff they sell as Nylon Mesh is great structural stuff, being both strong and non-stretchy (but obviously not bug netting). Some fabric stores have sales on their "nylon sheers," which are indeed as bugproof as noseeum mesh. It pays to look around at all the craft and sewing stores in your area from time to time and see what they've got.
Yahoo Groups has a new discussion group on cheepie backpacking tricks and ideas.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bpcheap/
Doug Frost
Youngblood
08-20-2005, 09:18
The stuff sold at WalMart as Tulle is a fair bug netting material (I've used some on experimental hammocks), but probably not totally bugproof. (Some people have used this material for making mesh stuffsacks.) The stuff they sell as Nylon Mesh is great structural stuff, being both strong and non-stretchy (but obviously not bug netting). Some fabric stores have sales on their "nylon sheers," which are indeed as bugproof as noseeum mesh. It pays to look around at all the craft and sewing stores in your area from time to time and see what they've got.
Yahoo Groups has a new discussion group on cheepie backpacking tricks and ideas.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bpcheap/
Doug Frost
Doug,
I have bought some of the Tulle(?) with the idea of using in for the bugnet but haven't actually done it. Just before I do, I think of the trouble and cost of the Velcro that I sew to it (Speer style hammock), just run down to REI and buy some noseum netting (for about $3.50 per yard these days). Obviously I have worried that I would regret using the Tulle(?) that I found on the $1 per yard table... mainly the snag factor, I suppose. Do you have any experience with its snag factor, durability or its suitability for the bugnet in general?
Youngblood
fiddlehead
08-21-2005, 01:41
I have a thin blue sleeping pad that i fold in 3rds and it fits in my go-lite breeze perfectly (i originally cut one in half so now it's about 40 ionches long) It forms the soft backpad for comfort and gives my pack shape for loading everything else in with sil-nylon stuff sacks that slide in and out easily (color coded of course)
I am glad to hear of your pack constructing. I think everyone should make a pack to their own thoughts and then there'd be a lot less complaining. I do find the Breeze to have exactly what i would want in a pack and gave up my own ideas after i carried one. I still make my own pack covers and stuff sacks and ALWAYAS on the lookout for better ways of doing things. Keep experimenting and making new gear.
I have bought some of the Tulle(?) with the idea of using in for the bugnet but haven't actually done it. Just before I do, I think of the trouble and cost of the Velcro that I sew to it (Speer style hammock), just run down to REI and buy some noseum netting (for about $3.50 per yard these days). Obviously I have worried that I would regret using the Tulle(?) that I found on the $1 per yard table... mainly the snag factor, I suppose. Do you have any experience with its snag factor, durability or its suitability for the bugnet in general?
My brother and I just sewed two lengths together and draped that over the hammock on a bugnet-ridgeline. (Gathered together around the ends of the hammock, gravity does the rest.) It seems to be acceptable against bugs--you can always treat with Permathin to help things along. I've too little testing with it to comment on durability. It normally costs a buck a yard (for black, .75 for dark blue), so it's cheap to experiment.
Doug Frost
Thanks all for the replies and the tips. DLFrost, I think you've got me convinced to buy some of the tulle and try it as bug netting. You think their nylon mesh would work well for backpack pockets? I know that most commercial packs use a spandex, stretchy-type mesh, but I don't see why this wouldn't work too...
Thanks all for the replies and the tips. DLFrost, I think you've got me convinced to buy some of the tulle and try it as bug netting. You think their nylon mesh would work well for backpack pockets? I know that most commercial packs use a spandex, stretchy-type mesh, but I don't see why this wouldn't work too...
It will be strong enough, but a little stiff... Most mesh pockets are stretchy because it makes the pack look more trim and because they are more forgiving of abuse. Make a stuffsack or three: If the Nylon Mesh doesn't suit ya, try a double layer of the Tulle.
Doug Frost