Allegany State Park-NCT (NY)

[jmitchell]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4923955...7640805616993/

Last weekend I went backpacking with some friends to western NY's Allegany State Park. This is the largest state park in NY and the North Country Trail crosses the park and enters PA. We decided to backpack this section of the trail, with a total of about 21.5 miles.

I called the park before I left and asked how much snow there was; the ranger said 6 inches. So I didn't bring snowshoes. This proved to be a mistake.

We met at the southern trailhead in PA and shuttled north to near Salamanca. The night was bitter cold, but clear and the moonlight lit up the forest and glistened across the snow. Thanks to a steady climb, I became warm despite the cold. And it soon became clear there was more than 6 inches of snow. The trail passed some large boulders and descended to a nice shelter above a small stream covered in snow. We went to bed. It got down to -12 degrees that night. That is the coldest I've ever camped outside.

The next morning was bright and sunny; we found ourselves in winter wonderland. I left first and broke trail. The woods were beautiful with hemlock and large hardwoods. But there was over a foot of powder. It felt like walking on sand since the snow would not compact. I gradually became exhausted. Some others in the group caught up to me and broke trail with their snowshoes, it helped a little. We reached the next shelter and continued hiking; we still had about 7 or 8 miles to go to our final shelter, where we would stay.

Besides the deep powder, our next problem was water. Everything was frozen and snow covered. We found a small creek and I just drank from the creek without treating the water. Not a good idea, but all our water treatment had frozen. Luckily, I didn't get sick, but I did see many odd things floating in the water.

We pushed on as the trail meandered across the plateau with areas of briars. The trail descended to Quaker Run and some nice hemlocks. The trail then followed a level old grade, which made for a little easier hiking. I reached scenic Coon Run as the sun began to fade. The trail climbed a little more, but the moon came out with bright light and illuminated the forest. I could easily follow the broken trail without using my headlamp. I reached Willis Run Shelter, where we stayed the night. Again, it was a beautiful shelter with a piped spring overlooking a deep glen. Exhausted, I ate quickly and was soon in my sleeping bag. It wasn't as cold this night, maybe 5 degrees.

Sunday was the 7 mile hike out to PA. The trail was broken and packed down for the first two miles and I felt like I was flying. This was a nice hike as the trail followed a narrow ridge with views down both sides and scenic forests. I had to break trail again down a beautiful valley with hemlocks. I soon reached a small meadow and Wolf Run, where there was a bridge. A long gradual climb followed that was very tiring; we reached the top as the snow began to fall more heavily. We descended and entered PA; it was exciting to see the sign. The trail descended into a gorgeous glen with hemlocks and meandering streams. It was a beautiful end to the hike.

Overall, this was a very nice trail. Fairly isolated, little development and few road crossings. The shelters were great. While there were no waterfalls or great views, the forest hiking was beautiful and the streams were scenic. It is a fairly easy trail with gradual climbs, except when there is over a foot of snow. Everyone had a good, but tiring, time.

If you're ever in Coudersport, PA, check out Olga's. A great place to eat, that doubles as an art gallery.

http://www.olgaexperience.com/cafe_bistro.php

[Praha4]

wow, that is so cool, thanks for sharing. My dad grew up in Salamanca, NY (Killbuck), born there in 1910. When I was young, our family took several summer vacation trips to Salamanca and visited Alleghany State Park, we camped there one summer in the cabins. Lots of great memories of spending adventurous summer days there exploring the woods, streams, and the entire park and area, which is absolutely beautiful. You aren't lying about snow there, it's lake effect snow, and that area gets tons of snow every winter. I hope I can visit that park again some day.

[russb]

Nice! I did the same trail section a few years back starting in PA. Stayed at the willis cr site as well. I delivered a pizza to the Willis lean2 to some friends who were backpacking as well. In winter, i always bring snowshoes.

[handlebar]

I was on that trip, but was 30 miles from home when I realized I'd left my snowshoes behind. I do regret that. Really nice section of the NCT for a winter hike.

[erieite]

Sounds like a great hike I live not far from there (Erie, Pa). North Country is a great trail.

[Toolshed]

I lived in Western NY for years and used to belong to the Foothills Trail Club. We were largely associated with the Conservation Trail which is an offshoot of the Finger Lakes Trail (FLT)/NCT trail that runs from the PA border (ASP) to Niagara Falls, NY & ON to meet up with the Bruce Trail in Canada. I miss those days and that trail. Thanks for bringing back some memories...
IIRC, you would have been on the Conservation trail if you were on the FLT in ASP in NY.... (Oops I am out of acronyms.... )