NH White Mtn. Section in Late summer; Questions

[colorado_rob]

My wife and I would like to do an 8 day section, basically covering what I think are the White Mountains in upper NH. The actual section is 105 miles from NH 25C near Warren to US 2 near Gorham. For those familiar with this part of the AT, I have a few questions:

1) is there any advantage whatsoever to NOBO vs. SOBO on this little section?
2) I realize this is the main section where the AMC hut system is, and we do plan on partaking a couple nights in huts (and plan on making some reservations), but I also notice there are, indeed, a number of campsites along the way which we plan on using to minimize the hut expense. Any words of wisdom for these campgrounds? Do they generally fill up on weekday nights? 3) I think we might hit the tail end of the NOBO crew in early September, right? I guess by this area and this late though, the AT thru "crowd" should be well spread out and thinned out, correct?
4) Is early September generally low on bugs? I assume fairly cool nights, so maybe so? We'll be prepared for whatever these mountains can throw at us gear-wise.
5) Seems like I have another question or two, but this is probably enough for now, unless any other pearls of wisdom to share?

Thanks a ton in advance for any insight on this hoping-to-be spectacular section of the AT.

[rafe]

Some of the campsites are tent platforms, so think of how you might set up your tent on one. There are some non-pay lean-tos in addition to the huts, but they're sometimes a ways off the trail. (Eg., the Perch, Guyot.) Bugs not a problem in September.

I can't think of a huge diff between going north and going south. Going north you start with Moosilauke and Kinsman, and get the Presidential traverse almost at the end, but then you still get a day or two of intense fun over the Wildcats and Carters. Gorham has lots more going on the Warren, that's for darn sure.

[Cookerhiker]

Some of the huts go self-service after Labor Day - check the AMC's website.

[yellowsirocco]

Self service is the way to go. You get access to their full kitchen equipment so you can be very creative with your meals. Think stuff like making nachos in the oven with melted cheddar and jalapenos. I do love the made from scratch food they make during full service though (I had some delicious free leftover chocolate chip pancakes this morning at Greenleaf) but I wish it wasn't so expensive.

[DavidNH]

Colorado Rob...

First.. I don't think it makes a lick of difference whether you go sb or nb. You still cover the same mileage and the same steep and rugged terrain. In some places the steeper climb will be south bound, in other places it will be north bound. It balances out in the end.

Second.. The huts: reserve weeks if not months in advance (especially for Lakes and Madison) and plan your trip around those dates. You did say late summer and if this means between Labor Day and Columbus day then your chances of space in the huts are vastly improved especially during week days. Huts are packed to the gills in July and August.

Third... by early Sept. the northbounders will be significantly diminished if not totally done. Most go through in July and August.

fourth.. bugs in late September are not a problem. They should be substantially gone.

fifth.. for early september.. expect cool nights. By that I mean frost in higher elevations and at least down to 30's lower elevations. Carry a 20 degree bag.

Finally.. be prepared for nice to very chilly and wet weather (you never know this time of year). expect sub freezing wind chills at the very least on the summits of the Presidentials (Mts Washington, Jefferson, Adams).

that about does it for now. write back if more questions.

[Slo-go'en]

1) It's a coin toss as to go SOBO or NOBO.

2) You should be fine for campsites during the week. Weekends will be iffy. Depends on the weather. There will be quite a few thru-hikers about. The ones which still have a chance of finishing will be in NH early Sept. If their not through NH by mid Sept, they probably aren't going to make it.

Nearly all the designated tent sites are platforms, it's the nature of the terrain. Self supporting tents work the best, otherwise bring a lot of string. Some even bring their own eye hooks. "Stealth" sites are few and far between and suitable only for one person. You can't count on finding them or if you do, not finding someone already there.

Definitely get reservations for Lake of the Clouds hut. That's the one stretch were there is really no other option unless you want to do a very long and hard day. It would be a good idea to also stay at the Madison hut. Otherwise you'd have to go up an over Madison and down to the Osgood site in the Great Gulf, or drop off the ridge quite a way to Valley Way tent site (1/2 mile off the trail and a 1000 foot loss of elevation) or one of the RMC camps (also a ways off the AT).

3) Bugs are pretty much nonexistent by early Sept. Not an issue. It can get quite chilly at night (low 40's, high 30's) and if it is rainy, it can be quite raw. If it's raining and your not walking in a stream, you not on the trail. 10-20 mph winds above tree line is a calm day. If a front is pushing through, the winds can get pretty intense. The summits are often in the clouds.

Just hope you have a spell of good weather or at least good weather where you need it the most.

[colorado_rob]

Great info folks, I really appreciate this!!! Looks like reservations still available at some huts, I'm going to book 'em.

[rafe]

One thing to be aware of, the campsites and lean-tos in the Whites don't generally have nearby tenting areas, as is common elsewhere on the AT. That's especially true of the huts. Stealth camping is tough (if not impossible) on the AT in the Whites.

[peakbagger]

The Whites are busy in August and through early September. There is a distinct drop in usage once after labor day during the week but then college orientation crews start to arrive. The weather usually starts to get less reliable as the month goes on and usage on weekends is heavy which most campsites and tentsites filling up unless the weather is poor.

Lake of the Clouds is a very good way to split up the longest stretch of above treeline. I would suggest south to north as the trail is slightly less rocky initially but soon its doesn't make a difference. The general advice is cut way back on mileage compared to other sections of the AT. If you do that, you will normally get to a tentsite early enough to find a spot, push the day and show up around dusk and its could be lot more dicey. A 12 to 14 miles day is equivalent to a 16 to 18 mile day on much of the rest of the AT. AMC uses the formula 1 hour for every 2 horizontal miles and 1/2 hour for every 1000 feet of elevation change its a good guideline for most backpackers.

The spruce/scrub bands that typically start around 3K offer little or no camping, thus if you do want to stealth, you needs to stay low in the hardwoods. There are restricted use areas around all huts and tent sites that are signed and there is no camping within the RUAs. Generally the hut staff and tentsite caretakers will give you directions to legal overflow spots. The hut crews can also assist with reservations. If the weather forecast is marginal many of the huts will have no shows from people who either cut a trip short or decided a rainy day hiking up to a hut isn't worth it.

People have been hiking the whites for years and most have a great time and figure it out. Generally the folks who have a bad time are pushing mileage.

[rickb]

This is the first time ever that I am going to disagree with Peakbagger -- and it's just a small quibble. His advise is second to none when it comes to the Whites.

My thinking is that going north to south might make better sense, for 4 reasons.

1. There is a hostel right on Route 2 and good food in Gorham
2. When you reach Mount Height early on(blue blaze??) you get a great view of what to expect. Impressive even for someone spoiled by Colorado.
3. Easier to time the huts (Lakes makes sense for many) I think
4. Mount Moosalaikee then becomes an option (a potentially good one) but you can also blow it off an head into North Woodstock to eat without missing anything all important.

[peakbagger]

No quibble on Ricks comments. I just thought the first day from the south is slightly more reasonable than the Rattle River Shelburne Moriah hike to Imp. In either case you need to gain a lot of elevation that first day.

[magneto]

Consider using a hammock instead of a tent. You can set up comfortably between trees, even where there is no level ground, which is just about everywhere.

Weekend hikers tend to pack the official campsites with huge, car-camping-like tents early in the afternoon. By the time you arrive, most spots will be full. This is really hard to take when you are trying to push miles and you have to hike until just before sunset.



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