What are some key things to look for when buying trekking poles? I've read a lot of articles on thru hikers gear and most people don't go into detail on their trekking poles. I'm curious as to what is good and why.
What are some key things to look for when buying trekking poles? I've read a lot of articles on thru hikers gear and most people don't go into detail on their trekking poles. I'm curious as to what is good and why.
I'm sure it is because hands are similar to feet and are pretty specific to the user. One key thing to look for is an ergonomic grip. Make sure it fits your hand correctly, not to big or small. Plus, I personally like hand holds that are temperature resistant. Cork tends to stay cool when its hot and warm when ts cold.
Check out my adventures with my dog BeeGee http://www.adventureswithbg.com.
Poles get a lot of abuse on the trail. Consider the availability of replacement parts and/or repairs along the trail when you are selecting a brand.
More walking, less talking.
Start with a cheap pair from Wally World, just to see if you like them. Some prefer a single trekking pole to a pair. Personally, I love my Pacer Poles. http://www.pacerpole.com/ By far the most comfortable I've ever used. Now if only they came with a flick-lock instead of twist-lock...
IMHO, the lighter the better, hence my love of Gossamer Gear trekking poles. Would start to think about getting these if/when you conclude that trekking poles are helpful to you by trying some less expensive or borrowed sticks.
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Poles that are telescoping/collapsable make it much more convenient when hitching a ride or traveling by train since you can pack them down and attach them to the side of your pack.
Colorless green ideas sleep furiously.
Lightness is good. The ability to telescope (or not) is vital, for roads & town, and for on-trail, when hands are needed for extended scrambling or for ladders. Some prefer flip-lever latches, I'm OK with twist-lock. Some poles offer shock-absorption but I figure that adds unnecessary weight, so that feature doesn't interest me.
My two cents. One of the main selling points of Hoyt's Carbon Spyder compound bow is: it doesn't feel cold to the touch (when gripped in your hands) even when its freezing cold outside.
Carbon is light and stiff. Carbon is not a lightning attractor. Many people use a trekking pole (one ore more) to hold up their tents. Carbon poles when tenting or hiking in a lightning storm might add some comforting reassurance riding out that big storm.
I prefer the telescoping variety and not the bungie cord collapse-able variety. Most poles are adjustable. I think the strongest adjustment locks are the twist to tighten mechanisms when compared to the snap open / snap closed type locks.
Do you need a camera mount? Can you defend your choice to strap or not to strap in a strap or no straps debate. I want trekking poles with straps and I want that strap adjustment mechanism to be quick and reliable. People go crazy over straps like whether or not to do the approach to Springer.
That said, I like the Leki Carbonlite without the camera mount. It has a AERGON Thermo Long Grip and also a nice adjusting strap. Some people don't like long grips but they say this feature is useful on technical switchbacks where you move up and down the handle instead of making a million micro telescopic adjustments.
Leki replacement carbide tips are universal and readily available per my research.
Too be fair I don't own any trekking poles but I just described the one that is currently in my mind's eye my wish list.
I don't think the carbon (vs. aluminum) makes much difference to the lightning, which has already traveled thousands of feet through thin air before it "arrives" at its target. Best not to walk in lightning storms. Seek shelter, get off the ridge and into the woods.
Good advice no doubt. Always best to seek shelter when shelter is available.
I do have a Gas Discharge Tube arrestor and six eight feet long, copper clad, eight feet buried deep, grounding rods incorporated into my amateur radio antenna system because the antenna being aluminum kinda acts like a lightning rod. Or so the HAMs teach anyway.
Hope that safety investment wasn't a waste. Pounding in those rods was a real chore. Heated gas discharge to ground is high tech too.
I've just never heard that particular reason for favoring CF poles... and if it were me, it wouldn't make me feel any more comfortable to have CF poles instead of aluminum. Bad comes to worse -- that's a good time to fold up the poles and strap them to your pack. And get the *&%# outta there.
Wow thanks for all the info everyone! I'm really liking this forum. That gives me a lot to go read about. Don't jinx me with the lighting fellas!! Jk haha
You're 27, just a thought, not a push...
You can get $20 poles at wally world or sporting goods stores- probably $20 well spent to answer two questions-
#1- Do you need poles? Not sure exactly when they became "required" on many folks lists, but they are not.
#2- If you need or want them- the $20 pair will answer many of the questions you will invariably have (should they collapse, is weight an issue, durability, tips, grips, etc.) It may even turn out the $20 pair will work just fine.
Great advice. I bought my first pair of poles at Walmart to see if i even liked them. I decided I did and it helped me pick a lighter, more expensive pair when I felt ready. I also take the cheap poles and offer them out to anyone I hike with so they can see if they like walking with trekking poles.
Check out my adventures with my dog BeeGee http://www.adventureswithbg.com.
Now if only they came with a flick-lock instead of twist-lock...
this is key...
in my experience, with a few different brands of poles, the flick lock works better than the twist lock...
for me, the ones with twist lock always got permanently stuck after a rain storm and/or dirt got into it....
This; keep in mind if you plan on hiking the AT sometime, it's something like 5 million steps. Well, that means lifting you poles 5 million times as well. I love the BD Z-poles, the aluminum ones, because I broke a carbon one once, got it replaced with aluminum, slightly heavier, but cheaper and more durable. What I also like about these poles is that they fold up into thirds, very short, for storing in your pack. They are a fixed length, which I realize some people don't like, but I have come to really like; no slippage by definition, and they come in three lengths, 110, 120 and 120cm; I like the 120. I find that I just plain don't need or ever use a length adjustment for terrain; with my other adjustable poles, I keep them at one length all the time.
My first pair were W/M cheapies and they did me for 6 years. I've still got them and loan them out to friends on occasion. I have old hands and it was impossible for me to tighten the twist locks at all. Any time they needed adjusting I had to find someone with younger and stronger hands.
This summer I grabbed a pair of Easton flip locks because I was flying and needed a shorter length when compacted and definitely needed something I could adjust myself.
The only thing wrong I did was not getting them years sooner!!
I haven't had too much trouble with my ancient twist-lock Lekis from 2002. I had some thoughts of replacing them but there was no need. The pole tips were hard to find at local retail outfits, I finally found a pair at a small EMS store I'd never been to, a couple of towns over.
I don't adjust the pole lengths often. I fold (collapse) the poles when hitching to town. If I'm facing a very long ascent or descent of several miles, I might give them a little tweak. But sometimes not even that.
Regarding post #18 -- speaking for myself there isn't a 1:1 correspondence between steps and pole-plants. But I think there are lots of different poling styles, so... whatever works for you.