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  1. #1
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    Default Shakedown II---Danger on the North Country Trail

    My wife was a little nervous. I could see it in her eyes. I had finally gotten all of my backpacking gear together, and I was planning a four day hike. The Fall leaves were deep into their annual display, and it seemed like a great time to iron out the kinks and see if this long distance hiking thing could work for me. Well, you never know until you try.

    The forecast called for rain, and then rain, and some more rain. This would be much like the AT, both in terrain and atmosphere. The trails I planned to hike are often called "The Little Smokies" because of their elevation changes, but I would get to experience them with some AT weather as well. The Shawnee State Forest sports some of the most beautiful wilderness scenery in Ohio, with snakes, bears, and bugs to boot. Nestled in the last western vestiges of the Appalachian Foothills, it was the perfect place---just an hour from my home---to shake down my gear and get a feel for the AT.


    With stern admonitions from my wife (trail name: Irish Jo) to be safe and stay in touch, the morning of Wednesday, October 15th, 2014 found me driving south towards Portsmouth, Ohio. Peeks of sunshine cut through the occasional drizzle, forcing me to rethink my clothing choices again and again. I had to remind myself that I had brought everything with me. I had planned to carry all of my gear just as if I was marching off at Springer Mountain on the AT. May as well see what it will be like to carry it all, I thought. I had too much food and water, and more gear than I would need. My pack weighed in at just under thirty pounds.


    I arrived at the registration kiosk, noticing several other men milling about, prepairing their packs to depart. As I finished my coffee and tested the crisp morning air, I wandered over and introduced myself. Here, we had Jim, John, and Jeremy, all from Columbus, who had come down to do an overnight hike. They were planning to walk to the first camp (about 5 miles), stay the night, and return the next morning. When I complained that my pack was feeling a bit too heavy, they sheepishly confessed that each of them was carrying more than fifty pounds! I looked at their pack, and they were huge! They just stared at me in unconcealed amazement when I told them I was going out for four day by myself in preparation for my AT thru-hike next year. They had no trail names, so I called them 3J, as a group. They hefted their big packs, wished me good luck, crossed the road and disappeared into the woods. With that kind of load, I had no doubt I would be seeing them soon. We were all following the orange blazes.

    100_1131.JPG


    There was no more delaying. I slung my pack over my shoulder, cinched it into place, grabbed my poles, and off I went. This would be my longest multi-day hike ever. The forty mile loop I had planned circled the entire state forest, intersecting and running congruent with parts of both the Buckeye Trail, and the North Country National Scenic Trail. The loop had regular camping spots for hikers, strategically placed about every five miles, with water nearby. I planned to stay at #2, #4, and #6 over the next three nights. I reasoned---after my successful twelve mile hike earlier this month---that I could cover ten miles a day if I took my time. I am (k)new at this. I knew it was going to hurt. I knew I was going to get wet and cold. But I knew I could do it.


    From the kiosk, the trail cut across the road and went straight up the first hill over rocks and roots. I walked too quickly at first, huffing and puffing, until I forced myself to slow my pace. It was only 1100 in the morning, and I had all day to make it to camp #2. The sun had come out for real, as I grew too warm in my unneeded layers. Half way up the second hill, I came upon 3J. They looked a bit winded. John was eating a sandwich---to lighten his load, he joked---while Jeremy (the youngest) snapped pictures with his big camera. Jim seemed to be drinking a lot of water for being only half an hour from the trail head. I took a short break with them, complete with idle chatter, then marched on, solo.

    100_1133.JPG

    The
    kaleidoscopic tunnel (it's not green this time of year) afforded few views of the surrounding hills, but I did catch a couple of hints of what lies beyond. I felt good. The exertion of hiking balanced out the cool air nicely, after I had shed my extra layer, and I was enjoying myself immensely. The ups were still a struggle, but I knew---given time---that my body would acclimate. At the water source near camp #1, I stopped for a midday meal. Salami and motserella wrapped in a flour tortilla. Delicious!...and more water. Always more water. I had to get used to that.


    It was a bit windy and chill on this ridge top, so I did not plan to terry. I grabbed my pack and made to leave just as 3J arrived. They seemed to be in a debate about the location of camp #1 (which we had not passed yet) so, advising them to look further head, I left them to their own council. I would never see them again. I hope they had a good night. It was going to be a rough one!


    I trudged into camp #2 some five hours after I had registerd at the kiosk near the park headquarters. I saw no one else on the trail that day. Clouds had completely blanketed the sky, bringing an early dusk to the damp hollow where I quickly threw up my tent---which gets easier every time. My legs burned, my back ached, and I was starving. I quickly ate a hot meal of under-cooked noodles with chicken, drank a few swigs from my small flask of home made Italian port, and sprawled out on my sleeping bag---just as it began to rain. And it rained all...night...long. At one point, I pondered the sound of rain hitting my tent. It sounded so familiar. Then it hit me. Sleeping in a tent in the rain is like being inside a bag of microwave popcorn as it's popping. Not much sleep available there!


    This is a new sport for me, so my muscles screamed at me when I rolled out of my tent in the morning. Most everything I had was damp or wet. Thank goodness the rain had stopped, but I knew the added water weight would make my second day more challenging. I was very tired, but a breakfast of hot oatmeal with cranberries and almonds lifted my spirits nicely. The Starbucks Vias mixed in about six ounces of hot water with a glop of honey was absolutely marvelous! Like sweet esspesso, these would get me up and going each and every morning. I stuffed my soggy gear into my damp pack and kept my rain gear handy. The sky looked threateneing again as I started my second day.

    100_1135.JPG100_1134.JPGIMG_0989.jpg


    Thursday turned out to a complete washout. Cold grey rain fell from the dull grey sky, forming puddles on the soggy ground. My digital camera got wet---in spite of my best efforts---and gave up the ghost. It had travelled with me over many trips and many years to die in the rain, here, in the Shawnee Wildeness. I will miss you, little friend. In an unlucky turn of events, I inadvertently dropped my pack into a pile of very fresh animal dung at the water source when I left camp #2. I didn't notice it until later in the day (after wondering for the hundredth time what THAT SMELL IS!), and despite repeated flushing (pun intended), the funk lingered for days. My rain gear and pack cover did their job for the rest of my gear, and after five hours of sodden painful trekking, I stumbled into camp #4 just as the rain ended, having seen not a single soul the entire day. Some wonderful trail angel---with good intentions, I'm sure---had left me a nice pile of firewood, which was now damp and useless after two days of rain. As I erected my tent, the sun found it's way into that deep hollow, shining on my little home long enough for me to dry some of my gear. Dinner came early, as I was starving, and I spent the rest of the daylight hours sparking a small fire from the wet wood. I eventually got it started, but it cost me half a bottle of hand sanitizer. It was well worth the effort. I warmed myself by the fire, thinking that even crappy days (yes, there it is again) can turn out nicely. "Never quit on a bad day."

    100_1136.JPGIMG_0991.jpgIMG_0994.JPG


    I slept very well that night, exhausted from the lack the night before. I was only disturbed occasionally by chestnuts hitting my tent from the tree I was pitched under, and the big deer that thundered by my tent like a race horse.

    Friday was absolutely gorgeous! The day began and ended with sunshine---with abundant sun in between. It was breezy, and at times I was walking down sun-spangled, grassy paths carpeted in Autumn glory, with leaves of every color falling about me like confetti. Or traversing open ridges on rocky trails, where small grey lizards darted from my path, disturbed from their sun bathing. This is what I had come for! My legs were still hurting on the climbs, but not as much. I could tell that, given time, they would get used to the daily exertion. My pack was getting lighter as I consumed my food supply, and I was carrying less water, as I knew that reliable sources lay ahead.

    IMG_0996.jpgIMG_1002.jpg


    It was on top of one of these sunny ridges that I got the biggest scare of my trip. I was moving along, thoroughly enjoying my day, when a voice from behind me yells "HELLO!". My heart jumped, and so did I! I spun around, automatically spewing curses, as a smiling mountain biker rolled towards me. I hadn't seen a single person in two day of walking, and then this guy tries to give me a heart attack. Sheesh! He turned out to be Glenn, from nearby Mason, Ohio. He rode the trails on his bicycle regularly, and I could tell. He was built for it, and was decked out in typical mountain biker gear. We had a short, friendly chat before he bounced off down the hill ahead of me. Nice fellow. I saw signs of his passing for the next few miles, but then he dropped off my radar and was lost to memory.


    My last night in the Wilderness turned out to be the best. Not only did I have a great day of hiking, but camp #6 was a remarkable place overlooking a gurgling stream, surrounded my majestic pines. I got a chance to try out my gravity filter system for my water and it worked perfectly. Across the brook from me were camped two grey haired men, Dan and Doug, who were preparing for the arrival of their boss and some other fellow employees. They were great guys, both talkative and intelligent. I wish I had had more energy for conversation, but after setting up camp and eating a fine freezer bag dinner, I was ready for hiker midnight. But I didn't make it. At around 1830, I laid down on my sleeping bag to do some reading and soon drifted off. I slept for thirteen glorious hours next to the sound of the running water.

    IMG_1007.jpgIMG_1006.jpgIMG_1011.JPG

    When I awoke, all my gear was finally dry. I packed up my camp once again---
    something I'm getting more efficient at each time---and headed out on my last ten mile leg. To return to my truck and make the drive home was my only goal.


    The day began sunny, but the wind had picked up to a low roar in the trees, bring more clouds from the north. This was the part of the hike that coincided with the North Country National Scenic Trail, and it showed. The path was narrower and seemed older somehow. Walking through these woods felt like a strole back in time. The trees were larger and healthier. The trail hugged the hills rather than moving over them, with more of a natural, unforced association. If it had not been for the constant thrity mile per hour winds and the advent of a cold driving rain, I would have stopped and lingered, here. As it was, I was ready to be warm and dry. I felt I had accomplished my goal, and it was just a matter of getting out of the woods and evaluating the level of my success. The weather did not encourage stopping for lunch, so after five miles---passing by camp #7---I just kept going. I nibbled on beef jerky and drank plenty of cold water on that final dash to the truck, but I arrived there with a broad smile on my face.


    Driving home was strange. After just four days at three miles an hour, the speed on the highway seemed bizzare and wild. Over the next few days, my aches would subside, and my confidence would grow. The most astonishing thing for me was my weight loss. Over the course of four days, I had lost six pounds. In spite of eating all I could stuff down and drinking all the water I could stand, I still lost almost three percent of my body weight. I can see this as one of my challenges on the AT next year.


    Thank you very much for reading!

    Danger
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  2. #2
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    I don't know what happened to my spell checker. Sorry for the grammar bombs!
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  3. #3

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    Ah, the fun of hiking in Ohio in October - can be anywhere from 21F-94F with several days of rain. Thanks for the trip report.
    Backpacking light, feels so right.

  4. #4

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    Dave, nice write up hope you have a great trip next year.

  5. #5

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    Very enjoyable read.
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  6. #6

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    Fine story-telling... thank you.

  7. #7
    Registered User jjozgrunt's Avatar
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    Again with the epic, though very entertaining, novel. And I just checked and I'm leaving next year before you, so I can't even copy your Trail Journal entries and keep the missus happy. I'm doing a 26 day walk through along the Australian Alpine Walking Track next month and I'm going to start a Train Journal for it just so I can compare writing styles. I think I should be able to cover the whole 26 days in the space you used for 4 days. LOL
    "He was a wise man who invented beer." Plato

  8. #8
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    I wish I could walk with you, jj. I'm with you in spirit.

    Thanks for the positive input, everyone. These reports are written at home after I get back from hiking. I expect my reports from the AT to be much shorter...and posted to trailjournals.
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  9. #9
    Registered User jjozgrunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangerdave View Post
    I wish I could walk with you, jj. I'm with you in spirit.

    Thanks for the positive input, everyone. These reports are written at home after I get back from hiking. I expect my reports from the AT to be much shorter...and posted to trailjournals.
    Like you I think the trail entries on the walk will be short and to the point, I hate typing on phone screens.

    The alpine walk should be a good and will allow me to dial in the gear for approx the same weather as the start of the AT in mid March. But higher mountains to deal with and some monstrous climbs, especially as aussie track designers don't know what switchbacks are and prefer to head "straight up the guts with heaps of smoke". Day 3 I have a 3000 ft climb over just 1.5 miles and a 4000+ climb later in the trip. Lots of 1000 - 1500 ft climbs but very steep. I'm only looking at 12 - 15 mile days so it's not too strenuous. Actually can't wait to get going and I have my interview after the walk for the US visa, maybe I should go in straight from the walk to create the right impression, no shower or change of clothes?
    "He was a wise man who invented beer." Plato

  10. #10
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    What's your trail name, jjozgrunt? I'd like to walk a few miles with you. You can do crazy stuff and I'll write it down!
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  11. #11
    Registered User 4Bears's Avatar
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    Nice report DD!! Any words on how that SoLong6 worked out for you?? Just curious as it is on my very short list.
    "You have brains in your head/You have feet in your shoes/You can steer yourself in any direction you choose." - Dr. Seuss

  12. #12
    Registered User jjozgrunt's Avatar
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    "Moose" given and used by my fellow "brothers from different mothers" (army) since 1977. Although if someone was to christen me on the trail with something that better reflects my superior intellect, good looks or vast array of abilities, well first I would have to question their sanity, and then I would use it.
    "He was a wise man who invented beer." Plato

  13. #13
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    Moose, after that post, I'm calling you "Bunk"! <def: (slang), absurd, ridiculous, nonsense>

    4Bear: While I'm still getting used to the tent, I like it very much. I'm six feet tall, 210 lbs, broad-shouldered, so the extra space is great---with good room for gear on the sides. Although, I'd hate to be any taller in this one. Goes up quicker each time, it's fairly light weight, rolls up nice and compact, vents very well with the screening on both sides. It's going to be my home for five months, so I'd better learn to like it, huh.
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  14. #14
    Registered User jjozgrunt's Avatar
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    Called a lot worse over the years, I'll stick to moose though.
    "He was a wise man who invented beer." Plato

  15. #15

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    I thoroughly enjoyed reading your trip report. Makes me want to get out into the woods.
    Trillium

  16. #16

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    Wow - what great timing for your thread!!! I'm trying to find 3 or 4 days in the next month to do this 40 mile loop for the first time. I would appreciate some of the info below if you can help. First - do you know how long into the year the Park keeps the water supply up? I would want to be more prepared if they stop hauling in water due to freezing temps. Are there periodic streams available if I need to treat the water? Also - I read on a different thread that it's not advised to park at the trailhead - and instead to park at the lodge and walk the extra short distance to ensure your car is protected. Do you have any insight on that? Lastly - I also read that the trail is more difficult to follow one way or the other clockwise vs ccw - but can't recall which direction was recommended. Did you have any trouble with the orange blazes? Lastly - for anyone who might know - One of the potential open dates for my schedule involves finishing on Monday or Tuesday Dec 1 or 2. I wondered if there might be any issues/danger since I believe Dec 1 is the opening day for Ohio Deer Season. Not sure if the state park and trail area is open to deer hunting.

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    Great report.

    Always amazed at how many folks start a thruhike without doing any extensive prep hikes. DD, you are well on your way !!!!
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  18. #18
    Registered User Bigfoot86's Avatar
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    Great trip report and good write up mister dangerdave, i was also wondering about the solong. Best of luck on your hike next year

  19. #19
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjozgrunt View Post
    Called a lot worse over the years, I'll stick to moose though.
    Meant in all jest, my friend. Moose, it is!
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

  20. #20
    Registered User dangerdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tactfree View Post
    First - do you know how long into the year the Park keeps the water supply up? I would want to be more prepared if they stop hauling in water due to freezing temps. Are there periodic streams available if I need to treat the water?
    Check out their web site <http://forestry.ohiodnr.gov/shawnee>. On the right side is a link for their backpacking brochure, which gives tips and info on the loop. In part, regarding water, it states "5. The only drinking water supplies will be close to road crossings, as shown on your map. The water supply is limited, so please use it wisely. Water caches may not be serviced in winter due to bad road conditions. (Water caches are serviced using water from the City of Portsmouth, Ohio.) Latrines are provided at each campground for your convenience." There were also some streams, one of which (at camp #6) was the water source. You may very well be able to supply yourself with water from these, independent of the posts water sources.

    Also - I read on a different thread that it's not advised to park at the trailhead - and instead to park at the lodge and walk the extra short distance to ensure your car is protected. Do you have any insight on that?
    I had no issue with anyone bothering my truck (which is a nice truck, and fairly new) right next to the kiosk. If it makes you less concerned while you're hiking, by all means, park at the lodge. I went out on Wednesday, and returned on Saturday, so mine wasn't there over the weekend.

    Lastly - I also read that the trail is more difficult to follow one way or the other clockwise vs ccw - but can't recall which direction was recommended. Did you have any trouble with the orange blazes?
    I started at the registration kiosk and headed east (clock-wise). Some of the ascents were grueling for a noob like me, but I can't picture it being any easier going the other direction. I wanted it to be hard. Hiking easy won't get me to Katahdin.

    The trail was well marked, 99.9% of the time. There were a few points of confusion where some other trails crossed, but I made the right choices somehow. I guess that's part of the fun! The only real problem I had was at the one detour, between camps #5 and #6, if I remember right. I came upon this sign...

    100_1138.jpg

    Below it was a sign pointing up a gravel road. I followed the road for some way without a single blaze to guide me. Another temporary sign pointed left at the next junction, then another long empty stretch. It took some careful map reading to find the reentry point to the loop, as there was no sign for it. Orienteering skills really helped.

    Lastly - for anyone who might know - One of the potential open dates for my schedule involves finishing on Monday or Tuesday Dec 1 or 2. I wondered if there might be any issues/danger since I believe Dec 1 is the opening day for Ohio Deer Season. Not sure if the state park and trail area is open to deer hunting.
    I'm not a hunter, so I have no idea. I would call the park office and ask. Wear orange!

    I hope that helps. If you have any other questions, feel fee to ask.
    AKA "DANGER" AT Thru-Hiker Class of 2015

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