Yosemite Help

[DandT40]

Looking for some advice on a backpacking Yosemite trip were trying to put together for the summer. With permits going on sale in a month or so for July trips it's time to get going! The basics are we (myself, wife, and two teenage daughters) are from Chicago and will be flying out and renting a car is fine. We have 7-12 days anytime from July 1 - August 8th for the trip. We all have backpacked a lot so difficulty is not a problem but we like to keep the mileage between 8-12 miles a day but can stretch that on a day or two. We have never been to Yosemite so we want to see the basics and plan on going up half dome (so I know I need a permit for that as well), glacier point, as many of the falls as possible, and the stuff everyone sees. But no more than a day or two with the big crowds in the valley unless its the days we are coming and going.

Other than that we are wide open. We would love to hike the john muir south, but I don't know if we would have enough time to get anywhere that we would be able to shuttle or some how else get back to Yosemite. But any suggestions on a backpacking trip? Anyone do any trips to the northern part of the park? And any advice on the logistics (where to fly into, etc...)? Thanks!

[colorado_rob]

Just a thought... Go on to the JMT from Bishop, and hike north into Yosemite.

[MuddyWaters]

Yosemite has tons of trails all around the park. Hundreds of miles of fantastic backcountry, Its all what you want. It will take more than a day or two to see yosemite valley even.

[DandT40]

My only concern with the JMT is getting back to the car either way. Other than a shuttle service is there any other option?

Yeah MuddyWaters, it's pretty daunting to narrow it down since we have never been out there and want to see it all. But we know we can't in our time frame so we're just trying to find a nice mix of frontcountry and backcountry time to make it work. I figure we can figure out the frontcountry stuff on our own, but when trying to decide on which trails or areas are best to backpack in or logistically make sense it's nice to get some first hand accounts since there isn't a ton of real backpacking info out there. Other than on here of course.

[MuddyWaters]

You likely cannot get a permit to do JMT south . Its possible, but odds are slim if you have fixed dates.

You can start at Mammoth Lakes/reds meadow on a forest service permit, hike JMT north to Yosemite 4-5 days. Spend some time in Yosemite, then shuttle back to mammoth on the Yarts.

[colorado_rob]

You likely cannot get a permit to do JMT south . Its possible, but odds are slim if you have fixed dates.

You can start at Mammoth Lakes/reds meadow on a forest service permit, hike JMT north to Yosemite 4-5 days. Spend some time in Yosemite, then shuttle back to mammoth on the Yarts.

Yeah, I was a little too optimistic saying start at Bishop, as that's 146 miles to Happy Isles, starting at Reds would be ~90 miles, maybe a bit more reasonable. If you went Bishop to Tuolumne, that's 122. I like the Red's to Happy Isles. In any case, seems much more logical to hike north into Yosemite, some of the coolest stuff right along the way, Garnet Lake, Thousand Island lake, Donohue Pass, Cathedral Lake/Pass,clouds Rest, Half Dome, spectacular stuff! We liked Garnet and thousand Island lakes so much, I'd consider next time spending a night at both, even though they are only a few miles apart.

I certainly wouldn't just hike around inside Yosemite for a week+, sorry, better stuff around than just that, and much less crowded (though still lots of folks) along the JMT south of the park.

[DandT40]

I certainly wouldn't just hike around inside Yosemite for a week+, sorry, better stuff around than just that, and much less crowded (though still lots of folks) along the JMT south of the park.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I know you can spend a ton of times at any of these locations, but we are just looking for the best of the best. We went to Yellowstone and the Tetons last summer and I heard it all the time - you can't spend only 2-3 days in yellowstone it's too big. And yes, if you're hiking every trail in the park that is true. But not to see the hits. Three days was perfect and then we did the Teton Crest trail for the backpacking portion. That's basically what we're looking to do again. Sounds like the JMT may be the way to go after all.

[Malto]

I would highly recommend Kings Canyon over Yosemite. everyone tends to flock to Yosemite (including me) but kings Canyon is far superior IMHO. but if you must.

Get the NatGeo Yosemite map. Look for loops out of [COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]Tuolumne Meadows especially to the south. there are some great loops of all lengths. if you look south of Merced Lake you will see a loop that goes high and then loops through the Merced drainage. You could continue down the Metced and hit either Half Dome or Clouds rest on your way back up. [/COLOR]

[MuddyWaters]

High Sierra trail . Sequoia trailhead is a bit.....inconvenient.....to get to. Not sure how the fire may have affected. permits hard to get. 70 miles across the Sierra, you cross the western divide.

SEKI is where the dramatic scenery is. And the really big trees. google images.

[saltysack]

I would highly recommend Kings Canyon over Yosemite. everyone tends to flock to Yosemite (including me) but kings Canyon is far superior IMHO. but if you must.

Get the NatGeo Yosemite map. Look for loops out of [COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.870588)]Tuolumne Meadows especially to the south. there are some great loops of all lengths. if you look south of Merced Lake you will see a loop that goes high and then loops through the Merced drainage. You could continue down the Metced and hit either Half Dome or Clouds rest on your way back up. [/COLOR]

Agree...Yosemite was amazing but didn't come close to Kings and Sequoia. Unfortunately I missed seeing all of it as I ended up night hiking quite a few miles.....


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[Siestita]

I second the suggestion that others have made that you start your hike at Reds Meadow and backpack north on the JMT to Yosemite Valley. Reds is easily accessed (shuttles run all day) from the east side of the Sierras, specifically from the large winter skiing/summer mountain biking resort town of Mammoth Lakes, California. Three or four days each week Eastern Sierra Transit runs vans that conveniently connect Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, and Lee Vining to the Reno, Nevada airport. That airport, or the smaller one at Mammoth Lakes, can (with planning) be helpful for accessing the JMT.

Mammoth Lakes is located up at about 9,000 feet, if I remember correctly. The JMT northbound goes upward from there. So, coming from Chicago, give yourselves some altitude acclimation time (preferably several days and nights) at the beginning of your trip. Reds Meadow is a good base from which easy and interesting day hikes can be taken. It's much more peaceful and relaxed than Yosemite Valley is. And, the Forest Service campground there at Reds has both access to geothermally heated showers and a special walk-in campsite for backpackers.

An alternative, instead of starting north from Reds Meadow, would be to do so instead do some from Agnew Meadows, a few shuttle miles up the road from Reds Meadow. That would shorten your hike a bit, a change that could be helpful either if you want to do some peak bagging or if a family member unexpectedly has difficulty hiking briskly at altitude.

You'll want to spend some time in Yosemite Valley, for obvious reasons, but obtaining permission to stay there during nights in July, whether camping or in one of the hotels, will be challenging. It is my understanding that people who walk into Yosemite Valley, with permits from the Forest Service, are allowed to spend one night (and only one night) at the backpacker's camp there. Of course, after camping there that night you could then spend most the next day in the Valley, eventually leaving that beauty spot either in a rental car or on board a YARTS shuttle.

During the day YARTS operates shuttles (for park employees and travelers) between Yosemite Valley and town of Merced, California. And, early every morning a YARTS shuttle leaves the Mammoth Lakes area, proceeds northward to Lee Vining (Mono Lake), crosses the Sierras (via Tulumne Meadows)and descends into Yosemite Valley before noon. Late in the afternoon that same shuttle van leaves Yosemite Valley and returns to Mammoth Lakes. In addition to serving backpackers, that YARTS service makes it possible for people lodging in Mammoth to spend an afternoon in Yosemite Valley, an extraordinary place that might be 'loved to death' if everyone who wanted to stay there was permitted to do so.

[colorado_rob]

Yikes!!! I posted a big error below, I was looking at the mileage backwards.... Reds Meadow to Happy Isle is only 57 miles, not 90 like I said below (it is 90 from Bishop to Reds).

I still thin Reds--> HI would be great though, and would allow you more time to bop around inside of Yosemite.

[saltysack]

Yikes!!! I posted a big error below, I was looking at the mileage backwards.... Reds Meadow to Happy Isle is only 57 miles, not 90 like I said below (it is 90 from Bishop to Reds).

I still thin Reds--> HI would be great though, and would allow you more time to bop around inside of Yosemite.

I think it was 60 miles from Devils to happy isles...easy 3.5-4 days....


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[Dogwood]

Based on what you said and after careful knowledgeable consideration unless you like crowds and waiting in lines definitely don't spend more than 2-3 days in Yosemite Valley in July. Perhaps, initially stay in the valley at Curry Village, Ahwahnee Hotel, or a campground venturing out on day excursions checking out the valley's highlights - Yosemite and Bridalveil Falls, El Capitan, Merced River, awesome views, etc. You don't absolutely need your own car to do any of this. Walking and/or taking the free YV bus gets all this done. Public buses take you right into the valley. These buses connect with Amtrak such as in Merced and Lancaster CA and some of the regional airports - San Fran, Sacramento, Fresno, Reno, LAX, etc, all International APs, AND smaller Regional APs such as Merced and Mammoth Lake Regional APs. I know several airlines fly from the Chicago Int APs - Midway and Ohare - to Mammoth Lakes, perhaps with a stop/transfer at LAX. I'd say consider a day in San Fran if you fly there if your family has never experienced this scenic city. It's the nicest of all the International AP locations I listed. From San Fran Int AP you connect with the BARTS system that connects with Amtrak to Merced that connects to the YARTS system all conveniently and seamlessly. Reduced price Yosemite NP YARTS fares are availble for the trip from San Fran/Oakland to Yosemite Valley. No rental car needed.

You don't need to go to SeKC NP to see Giant Redwoods either. Taking a YARTS bus from YV to the Mariposa or Crane Flats Groves on the west side of Y NP can be utilized for this WORTHY day trip. Another bus drives you to Glacier Pt another VERY TOURISTY location. YV has other activities worthy of taking in such as a very good IMAX Theater, restaurants, very good grocery store, and the excellent YV Visitors Center. Heck, wandering the stores checking out Ansel Adams art work might be appreciated too to break up the hiking/walking.

After those 3 days or so I'd get out of YV or you may find you'll need a vacation from your Yosemite vacation once home. This can be accomplished with several itineraries and/or availing yourselves of several options and services. That same YARTS bus to Mariposa Grove of Giant Redwoods also goes into the town of Mariposa and Merced, where if you haven't already, can pick up a rental car. You could get a rental car sooner and drive in/out of YV and to nearby sights such as either of the Redwood groves I mentioned, Glacier Pt, Tuolomne Meadows, etc. If you get a rental it increases options but can entail additional costs and responsibilities.

You could also hike UP and out of YV. The most obvious perhaps optimal choice would be to hike from Happy Isles TH, the JMT's Northern Terminus, to Tuolomne Meadows(TM). Along the way take in two other iconic YV waterfalls, Vernal and Nevada Falls, and THE THING THAT IS THE THING TO DO IN Y NP, summitting the POPULAR AND CROWDED Half Dome(HD). It's about a 2 night 3 day journey for your party, spending one night at the HUGELY POPULAR and CROWDED Little Yosemite Valley Campsite breaking camp before sunrise then summitting HD on Day 2 EARLY EARLY in the morn, and then spending night two at Cathedral Lakes largely away from the masses in transit to TM. Day 3 you're at TM where there are abundant options. You COULD stay at TM Campground for example as a base, PERHAPS even having left a car there. You could explore TM area on day excursions taking in Lembert Dome and MORE GREAT waterfalls WITHOUT the massive crowds - Tuolomne Falls, California Falls, Le Conte Falls, Waterwheel falls, etc. and the scenic Grand Canyon of the Tuolomne River. Perhaps, another option is to NOT use TM Campground as a base but just utilize it as a one night stop and seamlessly continuing your hike that was started at Happy Isles TH, IF the family are all up to it, by taking the Pacific Crest Tr, a National Scenic Long Distance Trail, to the Glen Aulin junction and continuing down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolomne River to the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir area, another scenic location. IMO the north side trail along Hetch Hetchy is more scenic than the south side and passes by several other scenic waterfalls - Rancheria Falls and Wawona Falls - all on well maintained and much less used trail and JUST AS SCENIC as the JMT which so many get gung ho about while ignoring equally scenic other trails with NOT as much competition for permits. After crossing the Hetch Hetchy Dam you can seek a ride at that TH or continue hiking onto White Wolf(WW) Camping Area - civilization again -where you can connect with the YARTS bus system easily spending a night at WW with a home cooked meal and roof over your head. In one direction on the YARTS bus not far away is Crane Flat where, if you haven't already can take in a grove of Giant Redwoods, and continue onto YV, Mariposa, Merced, Glacier Pt, etc. Or, you could take YARTS the other way to TM and possibly even Mammoth Lakes a good sized town with everything a family seeking some R &R civilization after a good hike might want.

Depending on permit availability, you could reverse all this too. You COULD base your family at TM campground and break up the hike into a TM - Hetch Hetchy/White Wolf hike and a TM to YV/Happy Isles(HI) hike. The advantage of doing this is the permit competition MIGHT be less on the TM -YV/HI TH hike AND your party will largely have a flat and descending hike on BOTH legs of these two hikes. Easy getting around to all these strarting/ending TH locations with the YARTS bus system too. If having a rental vehicle you could also drive outside of Y NP taking in Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve on an easier less hectic day. You could take this in whikle in transit on a drive to Mammoth Lakes too.

Once in ML you can take another YARTS bus to Reds Meadow and check out the scenically worthy geological formation of Devils Postpile National Monument perhaps even camping in this area for a night while also taking in nearby Rainbow Falls.

So, consider breaking up your time/hikes to different areas hitting the highlights but not being so stressed in an always hectic crowded atmosphere AND NOT being so gung ho on YV or the JMT. Get some of it all.

Enjoy.

[DandT40]

Thanks everyone. This is very helpful. I'm going to dig into the maps with the different suggestions and see what the rest of the group wants to do too. Sounds like there are plenty of buses to get us around so that is great. We would love to go to other areas so we are not set on the valley or staying only in Yosemite. Even the trip up half dome could get the ax. The only thing I would like to do is go to the frontcountry stuff first and then backpack. Returning from backpacking and then going and dealing with the crowds for a couple days is just no good.

[Dogwood]

It's what I thought chronologically too about an itinerary.

[wornoutboots]

Reds would be a perfect place to begin your hike (due to the proximity from ML & I suggest flying into ML), I would then head down fish creek to Iva Bell hot springs, then over goodale pass into VVR for your 1st resupply, then hit the JMT back to Reds for your second resupply, then the JMT North over Donahue to the Lake Ireland trail, up to Vogelsang HSC, for a meal plan/shower, small resupply, over vogelsang pass, down the babcock lake for an amazing quiet lake camping experience, then down to Merced HSC/meal plan, then continue down Echo Valley to camp at LVY to hit Half Dome & or Clouds Rest then exit from Glacier Point down to the Valley or straight down the steps past Nevada & Vernal to the Valley. Sorry not sure of the mileage but if you have or buy Harrison Map set it easy to plan out a route. As you see, there are a ton of ways to explore the SN backcountry & they're all surreal!! Enjoy!! I'm headed back this year again for my 3rd trip!!

[DandT40]

Thanks wornoutboots I'll have to check the mileage on that but seems like it would be further than our current plan. Which is...

So I think everyone agrees on the timeline below. I'm struggling with what days of the week each day will be since if day 1 is a Thursday or Friday which makes the most sense to get two weekends out of out it, our front country time is on the weekends and half dome potentially on a Friday. But like I said, we're ready for crowds at times and that's fine but it would be nice to avoid them as much as possible. The locations for the backpacking nights are just something I took from a JMT hike going the other way to give me a rough idea of mileage.

Day 1 – Fly out. Pick up supplies. Drive out to park. Stay hotel or camp
Day 2 – Front country/Yosemite Valley – Hotel or camp
Day 3 – Front country/Yosemite Valley – Hotel or camp
Day 4 –Start to backpack Backpacking night 1
Leave from Mammoth Ranger Station/Red’s Meadow Resort to Garnet Lake
Day 5 – Backpacking Backpacking night 2
Lyell Headwaters in Yosemite
Day 6 – Backpacking Backpacking night 3
Tuolumne Meadows
Day 7 – Backpacking Backpacking night 4
Sunrise Camp or Cloudsrest
Day 8 – Finish backpacking / half dome – Hotel
Day 9 – San Fran/fly home

My big question is so I don't need a Yosemite backcountry permit at all correct? I would just get a Inyo National Forest Permit and that will cover us for the whole trip including Tuolumne Meadows, right? How hard are those permits going to be to get? The days of the week hurt me for the front country I would think requesting a permit for a Monday or Sunday would help a little even in prime season. And I see some walk ups are available. But it seems a lot easier logistics wise to do it this way. We may even stay in Mammoth Lakes for the entire trip and just drive up to Yosemite. Are there any options to stay closer to Yosemite? Most of the hotels/lodges on site are booked of course or don't look very appealing.

[KidA24]

I was there during peak season last year, and walked south, then east from Happy Isles to Red's (out over Isberg Pass) and once I got beyond Nevada falls, I saw 4 other people in 3 days.

The lake below Isberg pass might've been the most beautiful spot I've ever camped, and Red's Peak Pass was amazingly beautiful as well. My point is: Plenty of amazing spots to hike within Yosemite if that's what you want to do, other's also have amazing suggestions