Ozark Highlands Trail

[Zed]

The trail is in pretty good shape, at least up to the Kiamichi River. There was water available in both Frazier and Bohannon creeks on the south side of the mountain, and once you cross to the north side after Deadman Gap, in Cedar Branch at Mile 11. There was good flow at both Horsethief Springs and Red Spring. Big Cedar Creek had good water, but Pashubbe Creek was dry. There is NO water at Winding Stair Campground. Of course, you will be hitting the trail almost 2 months after I started, so if the rains quit, water will dry up pretty quick. Poison ivy and blackberry were thick in a few places, but not bad. They'll be worse come July, but no reason not to go.

The heat and humidity will probably be oppressive. If I was hiking it, I would cache water at Deadman Gap, and scout to make sure Horsethief Springs is flowing. I would probably cache water at Winding Stair also if I was hiking on to Big Cedar Trailhead, just to avoid big water carries.

[wperrott92]

I would also appreciate that info along with any notes on which sections lacked water and or were hard to navigate. Regardless of whether I chose the ouachita or the Ozark highlands trail I'm very accepting/expecting that deet may be part of my body chemistry by the time I'm thru.

[Dogwood]

Good stuff Zed. Still no H2O at Winding Stair CG? I looked around trying spigots and couldn't find a drop either two yrs ago. Isn't there a creek there? Hmm Pashubbe Ck was totally dry? I've heard from locals even late in the season going into summer there is usually potholes with H20. This is one of what Tim Ernst's concerns were…water availability going into the hottest parts of summer. At Deadman Gap two yrs ago there was a water cache and at Foran Gap.

Much useful beta for pre hike planning and on trail logistics are in both Tim Ernst's Ouachita and Ozark Highlands Tr Guidebooks. I rec both of his latest editions highly. Plus he offers free printable maps for both these trails.

Not sure of the total mileage/days out of your various agendas are required but FWIW I'd consider adding in or entirely the Buffalo River Tr system and the Sylamore section of the OHT. It resolves the logistics of water with access to a cool dip and well above avg scenery. And/or do some of the higher elev stuff along either the OT or OHT.

[Venchka]

Thanks Zed. Much appreciated.
The more I ponder the more I'm beginning to think that a Stairmaster in east Texas is the best way to prepare for the San Juan mountains in September.
Cheers Y'all.

Wayne


Old. Slow. "Smarter than the average bear."

[Zed]

wperrot92, if you don't have it, get Ernst's guide. It's got the info you need on water availability. I'm hesitant to provide too much information because a few weeks of dry weather can make a huge difference in that part of the country, and except for my thru, most of my hiking has been west of Horsethief Springs, so I wouldn't want to speculate. As far as trail conditions, along the Kiamichi was pretty thick in spots. The hike from Stateline to Queen Whilamena was terribly overgrown, as was the section from Queen Whilamena to Hwy88. Beginning a few miles east of Eagle Gap all the way to Foran Gap was extremely overgrown. Same thing leaving Foran Gap heading east. Good trail for awhile then overgrown for miles. Mile 130 to 134ish was pretty thick. None was hard to navigate as I could see where the grass and briars had been walked through, but it's very slow going, since the trail is quite rocky and you can't always see where you are putting your feet. I did lose the trail once at mile 194 where the trail leaves a pipeline right-of-way. Thick brush was hiding the flagging on a tree marking where the trail was. Ticks were extremely heavy, especially in the overgrown areas. I treated pants, socks, gaiters and shoes with permethrin which worked very well. I only found 6 ticks that were able to attach, all dead by the time I got to them. At one point I counted over 50 crawling up my pant legs. The permethrin killed most by the time they reached mid-thigh.

Dogwood, unless the aquifer recharges, I would be surprised if there is ever water again at Winding Stair. Even then, I wonder if the equipment would be serviceable. A few years ago the caretaker at Talimena State Park told me the only reason they had water at the campground was they had a pipeline tied to a rural water district.

There is a small creek along the trail leading into the main campground at Winding Stair, but I wouldn't count on it unless there has been rain recently. I didn't scout up or down Pashubbe as I had filled up at a creek west of the shelter, but all the crossings were dry, with a few very small muddy potholes. I enjoyed reading your entries in the shelter journals.

[Venchka]

Talk of dry creeks seems totally bizarre to someone from east Texas. I wish we could steer some rain that way.

Wayne


Old. Slow. "Smarter than the average bear."

[wishbone]

Be prepared for many ticks!

[Bronk]

The ozarks was hit with a really bad drought a few years back and a lot of wells went dry. As a result a lot of people dug deeper wells, so the aquifer may never recover back to its previous levels.

[wperrott92]

Organized a shuttle and picked out a 105 mile section from lake fort smith park to big piney trailhead. Leaving food and water at three different points along the way and if the bugs drive me crazy or I lose the trail I'll bail out. Should I spray permethrin on my pack and tent or is that not advised/will it damage the material.

[lonehiker]

Spray on pack for sure. That way you won't bring ticks into your tent. I've never bothered spraying tent.

[wperrott92]

I'll probably wear my Acu since it's already treated, long sleeved and quick dry. I got a head net and gaiters as well and I can also spray down the polycro ground cloth I'm bringing.

[saltysack]

Some excerpts from a trip report end of june-early july: http://www.fayettechill.com/blogs/ne...u-hike-journey

"There were times when the brambles and ticks and other difficulties made us want to quit. The trail was quite certainly overgrown. Countless trees have fallen across the trail, making the hike even more arduous."

"We didn’t expect to get lost for hours, to be covered in hundreds of ticks, or to have every inch of exposed skin scraped and cut from brambles. We didn’t expect that the trail would be so overgrown that we’d spend hours bushwhacking and frantically hunting for a glimpse of the white blazes marking the trail. We didn’t expect every single step to hurt. We didn’t expect that every night we’d want to give up and go home.

When we did get home, we both were exhausted, but we assumed that was normal. However, after a few days of feeling lethargic, achy, and running a low grade fever, we started to think something else might be going on. After a trip to the doctor, we both began a two week course of doxycycline, as all the symptoms indicated that we’d contracted a tick borne illness. Our lab reports came back positive for Lyme disease. Luckily we have no lingering side effects because we caught it early and started antibiotics."

And good pics and such of August :
http://www.trailjournals.com/photos.cfm?id=901167

Boy that sounds like fun....id rather zip my !ick up in my zipper!!!! I hike for pleasure not misery....what ever floats your boat...


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[wperrott92]

After re reading that a couple of times I have instead decided to do a 5-7 day out and back on the western end of the trail where I've been told by the OHT volunteer organization that the vegetation isn't as bad and the elevation is a bit higher.

[meanderingmayans]

Ditto what many have said. I thru-hiked the trail in 06' in July and it was stupid hot, humid, and swarming with ticks. The trail was very hard to locate in some sections and could be quite overgrown in others. I wouldn't hike it again during the summer months...or maybe at all. There are lots of other places to hike. That being said the area does have its charm.

On a side note - not sure if he is still around, but the owner of the Burger Barn in Ozone, AR, was quite the character...

Best of luck!

[MuddyWaters]

Eagerly awaiting a trip report.

[OkeefenokeeJoe]

wperrott92 ... You are very young and don't have enough life experiences to use mature discernment, despite good advice provided by others. Obviously, you see yourself as invincible which, at your age, is understandable. I was very much the same way in another time, long, long ago. In that regard, I highly encourage you to jump right into your planned hike. It will be a learning experience and a good life lesson for you. At the very least, it will make basic feel like a cake walk, not that ROTC basic is really very hard, anyway ... at least not what it was like in the 60's, where they actually beat the hell out of recruits, but I digress.

Have a fun and safe hiking experience. Hydrate hydrate hydrate and carry a good snake bite kit because the rattlers will be out. Carry a small camp mirror so you can check under your cod-sac for ticks every evening before retiring. Lyme disease will put a major halt to your military basic training.

Good luck to you, young man. I wish you the very best, and thank you for making the decision to serve your country. That right there separates you from all the other millennials out there who live in their parents basement, spend their days playing video games, and take their freedom for granted.

Hats off to you, Sir.

OkeefenokeeJoe

[wperrott92]

Only made it two days and 41ish miles due to losing the trail in the undergrowth/blowdowns near the top of hare mountain. The bugs didn't bother me and the heat was only a problem in that I couldn't stay dry and started to chaff really bad. Water was flowing at all of the major and secondary streams albeit only in part of the channels.

The worst part of the trip was dropping off my resupply on white rock mountain road I blew out a tire and put a major dent in my truck which delayed my hike by a day. Next time I will know the difference between dirt roads and true jeep/hunting roads, probably shouldn't have been going 30 on that road.

[Dogwood]

BMT has much heat, humidity, BUGS(gnats are crazy bag!), poisonous snakes, and overgrown trail in summer as well don't see everyone avoiding it in summer. AT through PA has all that but not as much overgrown trail but a whole lot more rolly poly ankle buster rocks in summer as well but don't see everyone avoiding it in summer.

[mml373]

OP- this is a good lesson in leadership and listening to the troops. Let me put this in Army terms for you:

You...a soon to be officer, solicits feedback on a field problem. All of the troops with boots on the ground experience are telling you to abort the mission, yet you are determined to push on. This doesn't make you better....it makes you foolish. Do you want to risk injury, dehydration, and lyme disease just before a defining moment that will impact your life? Your senior NCO's are telling you it's foolish. Listen to your senior NCO's. Go hiking but just not on this trail.

As a senior 'O', I concur with capehiker. Listen to your experienced folks, young one. Not only your fellow hikers here, but especially your senior NCOs once you're commissioned. Absolutely the best advice you could receive.

Oh, to be a 20-something again. Endurance and speed remain, but joints now are just banged from years of competitive running. :-)