Ultralight insulation jacket (9.1oz)

[LesPaul]

Hi everyone.

I just finished my new ultralight synthetic insulation jacket project!

It's trailproof, highly compressible and weighs only 258g (9.1oz).

As insulation layer I used Apex climashield which is still pretty warm when wet and compresses almost as good as down.

So here's the materials used:
Outside and inside: 37g/m² PTX Quantum
Insulation: 100g/m² APEX Climashield
Hems: Elastic bordering tape
Zipper: Closed end teeth
Cost: ~60$

This was the concept of the pattern:
All three layers were sewn at once to prevent the insulation layer from wobbling around inside.
At the places of maximum stress of the backpack and movement I tried to place seams beside but still prevent chafing.

Therefore I finned the front pieces so they reach around to the back where hip-belt creates pressure.
The front parts reach all the way over the shoulder to the back. So there are no seams where the belts of the backpack are but the stressed area is enframed by seams.
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First all three layers of all pieces are stitched togehter loosely (which makes further work much easier).
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Then I sewed and casted all pieces with an overlock machine.DSC_7787.jpgDSC_7785.jpg
Useing Elastic bordering tape as hems.DSC_7801.jpg

Then you're ready to go!
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Best,
PAUL

[zelph]

Looks like you did everything right :-) Turned out nice, now give it some trail time :-)

[Engine]

Good work, looking forward to a report after some use. I'm always envious of people who have the skills to pull off a project like this...I would sew myself to something.

[LesPaul]

Good work, looking forward to a report after some use. I'm always envious of people who have the skills to pull off a project like this...I would sew myself to something.

That's why I made this post - to encourage people to just make your own equipment. A good MYOG piece is always more fun than bought stuff and it's not that difficult. I also started watching youtube videos on sewing and then bought a machine... It's no rocket science!

[Deacon]

That's a great looking jacket. What did you use for the pattern?

[cmoulder]

Wow, that looks great! The Pertex shell combined with Climashield should make it superb for cold-and-wet conditions. Bravo.

[DuneElliot]

Good work, looking forward to a report after some use. I'm always envious of people who have the skills to pull off a project like this...I would sew myself to something.

+1

Looks great, but I also suck at sewing. All my leather ren faire gear has been put together with lacing and leather glue...lol. I also won't have room for a sewing machine in my RV...trying to get rid of stuff, not buy more stuff!

[zelph]

First all three layers of all pieces are stitched togehter loosely (which makes further work much easier).

Hand stitched loosely???? or machine???

What brand name machine did you use?

[LesPaul]

That's a great looking jacket. What did you use for the pattern?

The general shape was copied from the Peakperformance Swift Jacket, but with many modifications. That's what took the most time to get the pattern working. I made 5 prototypes from cheap fabric before. So it was no ready made pattern.

[LesPaul]

Hand stitched loosely???? or machine???

What brand name machine did you use?

Yes, first hand stitched loosely.. That just takes a few minutes per piece.
I used two machines.
The overock machine was a W6 (Wertarbeit) N454D
The normal machine is a Pfaff Hobbymatic from the early 80s.

You could also do this with just a normal machine, overlock makes it just a little easier to make nice covered inner seams..

[Just Bill]

Overlock is a nice option... looks good and serious congrats on doing the pattern work! That's where all the magic happens... and all the headaches.

[clusterone]

Outstanding!

[LesPaul]

Soooo.
Now the jacket has survived 1000+ km on different trails and temperatures and also several everyday uses. Here's now some insights on it:

I'm pretty impressed with the Pertex Quantum shell! It is surprisingly durable despite being so light and thin. In addition, it has been windproof and feels pretty nice if worn directly on skin (also often used it as pillow during the night). So - this was a perfect choice.
Insulation: great - but really warm. I took the jacket to a summer-hike in September and it actually was too warm. For 2,5-season use the thinner 67g-version of Climashield APEX would be fine, too. I also used it as insulation layer under a hardshell in two winterhikes at about -2°C and it was absolutely sufficient. In Fall i had a few cases where I really got wet - and it still was impressingly warm - so just the right pick for a longer trail.

If I was to change anything I would add a hood for a longer trail - but pretty much nothing else. I loved the combination of materials - it exactly did what it promised!

So long
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