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  1. #1

    Default AT through White Mountains - what to expect??

    Planning a week trip through the White Mountains on the AT going from AMC hut to hut, starting at Pinkham and going south. Have done some multi-day backcountry trips in Canada and also the Tour Du Mont Blanc a few years ago but am not sure what to expect for this trip.
    - What is the signage like?? I have the AMC White Mountain map and there are trails everywhere!! As I hike along, will each intersection be clearly posted with direction or trail name or will most be unsigned??
    - How many people will be on the trail in mid July...will I be on my own or will there be crowds of people hiking along?
    - Do the AMC huts sell a lunch for the day or is this something I need to figure out??

    Thanks for any help!!

  2. #2
    Registered User Old Hiker's Avatar
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    I used AWOL in 2016.

    1. Signage sucks, but only because the AT was an after-thought. SEVERAL places, the signs were destroyed by weather, making it hard to know where you were.

    2. Probably crowds. Had crowds close to huts - within 1-2 miles or so - in 2016 - day hikers mostly.

    3. If you are using the huts to sleep in, better have reservations well in advance. Not a lot of camping for people like me who were struggling to make 8-10 miles per day.

    Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
    Old Hiker
    AT Hike 2012 - 497 Miles of 2184
    AT Thru Hiker - 29 FEB - 03 OCT 2016 2189.1 miles
    Just because my teeth are showing, does NOT mean I'm smiling.
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  3. #3

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    Signage is somewhat confusing as the AT is not called the AT but every junction has a AT symbol on the sign alongside the local name. The are a few junctions where the AT is not the most popular route so you do need to make sure that you are looking at signs instead of looking at your feet. A hint is there is very confusing section on the first day where the AT crosses into the Great Gulf wilderness, its signed appropriately but folks still get confused as the follow the most popular trail instead of reading the signs. The Gulfisde trail (AT) is marked with older yellow blazes as well as white. The trails will be very busy, lots of folks backpacking and hordes of dayhikers. The first day from Pinkham to Madison is probably the least busy as there aren't a lot of dayhikers. Madison and Lake of the Crowds are major trail junctions and from Madison on the crowds crank up until Mitzpah. The AMC huts are full by that time and most hut folks are hiking between huts along the AT. The huts don't specifically sell lunch but they usually sell AYCE soup and deserts plus leftovers on occasion. They feed you well at breakfast and supper so most folks bring snacks. There isa state run concession at the top of Washington which is going to be jam packed on a nice day due to the Cog railroad and Auto Road plus there are many special weekend events. By the way the AT does not run on the top of the ridgeline in sections and skips several major summits like Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Monroe and Eisenhower. I expect most thru hikers just hike over the summits but a true hardcore would need to do an up and back via a spur trail if the want to hit the summits and stick strictly to the AT route(which are all worth it no matter how you car to approach them.

    Bring whatever sleep aids you can for the huts, ear plugs and consider a sleep mask, there is constant hum of folks moving around, snoring, flashlights. If the weather is nasty the wind noises can be significant. In July it can be warm and muggy which breeds thundershowers.

    One big safety issue is if you are headed south on the AT through the whites and for some reason you need to leave the AT in an emergency, if in doubt go right. Inevitably with the exception of the Mt Washington summit, going left off the ridge line adds hours and possibly days to get back to civilization. Note there really are no good options for bailing between Edmunds Col (between Adams and Jefferson) and the Jewell trail coming off Mt Washington as both the Castle Trail and Caps Ridge trail off Jefferson are very exposed to any weather coming in from the west.

    The hut crews post daily weather reports and if the weather is marginal they are best source of advice if the weather is potentially dangerous. Speaking of hut crews, bring cash to tip the crews, they expect tips and make sure you know it. The huts are all off grid with very basic DC solar systems to run essential equipment (with a small backup generator) there is no place to charge a cell phone unless you take side detour off the AT route between Mitzpah and Zealand via the Highland Center. There is cell coverage along the ridgelines but down in the valleys there may not be.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDW View Post
    Planning a week trip through the White Mountains on the AT going from AMC hut to hut, starting at Pinkham and going south. Have done some multi-day backcountry trips in Canada and also the Tour Du Mont Blanc a few years ago but am not sure what to expect for this trip.
    - What is the signage like?? I have the AMC White Mountain map and there are trails everywhere!! As I hike along, will each intersection be clearly posted with direction or trail name or will most be unsigned??
    - How many people will be on the trail in mid July...will I be on my own or will there be crowds of people hiking along?
    - Do the AMC huts sell a lunch for the day or is this something I need to figure out??

    Thanks for any help!!
    Signage is fine IMO, especially if you keep a map on hand to consult at trail intersections. There will be tons of people, if at all possible save the northern presi's or franconia ridge for week days.

    One thing to also keep in mind is that your hiking speed may also be much slower in the Whites than on the west coast and Europe. The rocky trails do make a significant difference.

    I'm assuming you have hut reservations?

  5. #5

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    Hey everyone - thank you so much for all your thoughtful responses! You gave me a lot of great information and I will need to do a little more thinking to prepare for this trip. Luckily my reservations at the huts are confirmed but I didn't book the shuttle - is this something I should get on now? Additionally, I was reading the White Mountain Guide tonight and noticed the need for water purification - any recommendations or can I supply at the huts? I also noticed a note regarding trail damage from a hurricane in 2011...has anyone been since then and is there many water crossings without bridges that I might need to think about or plan for? Thanks again everyone! If anyone is planning a trip in the Canadian Rockies I am more than willing to return the favor!

  6. #6

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    Not sure which shuttle you mean. The AMC runs a daily shuttle between trail heads and also stops at the Lincoln Concord Coach Bus Stop and the Gorham NH Concord Coach bus stop. Concord Coach also stops at Pinkham Notch. Concord Coach runs to the Manchester NH airport via a connection in Concord NH or directly to Logan Airport in Boston and South Station (Amtrak and buses). This in combination with the AMC shuttles pretty well covers you. Probably worth contacting AMC about shuttle reservations but I think they are first come first served.

    All the huts have wells and treated water supplies. Realistically you can easily carry water between huts. There are so called "springs" along the way as well as shelters and campsites that have water sources that should be treated as there is too much use in the area to trust them. The easiest lightest way is to carry Aquamira. Do note that the huts test their water and at times use water treatment chemicals that can give the water a major aftertaste.

    The hurricane issues are long gone. The AT and AMC hut to hut hike is a major moneymaker and its the first priority after any storm damage.

    Realistically, the biggest issues with a hut to hut hike are weather and a rough trail bed. There are also some significant elevation changes and few if any switchbacks. The first day out of Pinkham is pretty well flat for 4 miles and then the climb up from the Great Gulf is 2 and 1/4 miles of straight up (about 850 meters). You will get an introduction to rock hopping and exposed ridgeline. Many folks do a Presidential Traverse day hike up to Madison Hut from a side trail and do the entire hike to Crawford Notch in one day which will take you four days on a hut to hut hike. Cant do much about weather but in nice weather you have plenty of time to pace yourself and take your time between the huts.

  7. #7
    Registered User JEBjr's Avatar
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    Just use guthooks app and you will be fine. I got confused bear Carter Dome and could figure out where the trail went into the woods at Crawford Notch.

    Starting in Gorham would be better. The view of the Presidentials for the Carters is postcard like and the Carter Notch Hut is so cute.

    The hiking is very hard. Ethan Pond to Zealand Falls is the only easy stretch. SOBO up Garfield is the hardest mile Inhave done on the AT.

    Huts have left over breakfast and for lunch they have soup breads, desserts and lemonade. Mt Washingtin Observatory has pizza, chowder and other food choices.

    We were there last July. Only time it seemed crowded as in the evenings at the huts.

  8. #8

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    Be prepared for winter like weather in July. Do not under estimate the miles either.
    Just ignore it

  9. #9
    Registered User egilbe's Avatar
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    One of the deaths on Mt Madison was due to any early August snow storm. Hot and Muggy at the trailhead, snow and sleet at the summit. Keep that in mind when hiking the Presidentials. A couple almost died in June last year. Another hiker found them curled up against a rock trying to take shelter from the weather. He set up his tent, got them inside, warmed up hot drinks for them. It was their third time hiking the AT. They didnt expect a Winter sorm in June.

  10. #10

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    hmm, when you booked your amc hut reservations info was shared you were on your own for lunch. soup, baked goods(bread, cake, cookies), and perhaps some snacks may be available.

  11. #11

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    july = people

    good run down by Peakbagger. THX. Learned a few things.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by egilbe View Post
    One of the deaths on Mt Madison was due to any early August snow storm. Hot and Muggy at the trailhead, snow and sleet at the summit. Keep that in mind when hiking the Presidentials. A couple almost died in June last year. Another hiker found them curled up against a rock trying to take shelter from the weather. He set up his tent, got them inside, warmed up hot drinks for them. It was their third time hiking the AT. They didnt expect a Winter sorm in June.
    The weather in the Whites can be crazy. The last time I went up Mt. Washington it went from an extremely clear sky with great visibility to completely cloud covered and raining. When you go up there you have to be ready for anything.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SDW View Post
    Additionally, I was reading the White Mountain Guide tonight and noticed the need for water purification - any recommendations or can I supply at the huts? I also noticed a note regarding trail damage from a hurricane in 2011...has anyone been since then and is there many water crossings without bridges that I might need to think about or plan for?


    My wife and I did the presidentials in a day once. I was so parched on a clear 65* day between i believable Jefferson and Madison I swore I heard water. She said I was nuts. So I went to my knees and started moving boulders. Best fresh water in the north east I'd say. But we both had 10oz on us because we hadn't planned that rout for the day


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  14. #14

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    Every authority will say water needs to be treated/filtered/purified. That's generally a CYA on their part.

    I personally have no problem drinking directly from springs and high streams.

  15. #15
    Registered User HighLiner's Avatar
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    Signage is terrible. I've completed both the AT and the JMT. Doing the AT in the Whites as a section hiker was the hardest backpacking I have ever completed. Assents were painful and during descents I often held onto tree branches to keep from free falling. The Whites were harder even when considering the high elevations and thin air on the JMT. But staying at the Lake on the Clouds hut on a rainy night was the highlight of my AT experience. HighLiner.
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