how hard is the hiking on Isle Royale really?

[Odd Man Out]

I think "Odd Man Out" may have hiked there, hit him up.

I was there about 33 years ago but that was before backpacking days. We (newlywed wife and I) stayed at one of the cabins and day hiked. We canoed across Tobin harbor and up hiked up to the overlooked on the ridge. That was great. Would love to get back for some real hiking. I doubt it is as difficult as the official advice suggests. The trails and campgrounds in the central part of the island form a network so many loops can be planed. Down south there are long linear trails. There are also a number dead end trails that offer isolated campgrounds on out and back hikes. I did backpack pictured rocks a couple of years ago. There is nothing quite like Lake Superior.

[Odd Man Out]

...With the ferries making several stops to pick up and discharge people AND kayaks/canoes BEYOND Rock Harbor and just Windigo including some paddling prearranging some rentals is a GREAT way to mix it up on an IRNP hike and paddling excursion! Three NP's in the lower 48 that IMO one should definitely consider throwi ng some paddling into the backpacking mix are: Channel Islands, Everglades, and Isle Royale. It truly brings another dimension to experiencing these NP's!

We rented the canoe for a date trip on Tobin Harbor. Had loons and moose swim by. In the middle I had one of my most memorable outdoor experiences. We stopped paddling just to enjoy the view. It was dead calm and no clouds. I looked over the edge an I could see down to the bottom where there are giant water logged trees on the bottom. It is very deep, but the water was so clear it was like there was no water and I suddenly had the feeling I was floating in air 100 feet above the ground. I panicked at the feeling I was about to plunge to my death. I grabbed the sides of the canoe to brace myself. The disturbance in the water destroyed the illusion and I was "saved". On the other side we hiked to the overlook where you can see the NW sode. The canoeing there would be amazing with many coves and islands. The sky was light blue. The lake was dark blue, the islands we bright green, and in the middle was a couple in this bright canary yellow canoe. So cool. The other great place for longer canoe trips is the middle of the island where a chain of inland lakes are connected by portages. However, don't plan on canoeing on large unprotected stretches of the big lake.

[Dogwood]

We rented the canoe for a date trip on Tobin Harbor. Had loons and moose swim by. In the middle I had one of my most memorable outdoor experiences. We stopped paddling just to enjoy the view. It was dead calm and no clouds. I looked over the edge an I could see down to the bottom where there are giant water logged trees on the bottom. It is very deep, but the water was so clear it was like there was no water and I suddenly had the feeling I was floating in air 100 feet above the ground. I panicked at the feeling I was about to plunge to my death. I grabbed the sides of the canoe to brace myself. The disturbance in the water destroyed the illusion and I was "saved". On the other side we hiked to the overlook where you can see the NW sode. The canoeing there would be amazing with many coves and islands. The sky was light blue. The lake was dark blue, the islands we bright green, and in the middle was a couple in this bright canary yellow canoe. So cool. The other great place for longer canoe trips is the middle of the island where a chain of inland lakes are connected by portages. However, don't plan on canoeing on large unprotected stretches of the big lake.

That's a pretty cool description of your experiences. WOW. Also a BIG WOW since you're one of the few on WB that have shared mixing in a IRNP paddling experience to the hike. Very nice.

[Dogwood]

If you head out to Lookout Louise, Mt Franklin, or paddle out to one of the paddle in only CS's like Amydgloid, Belle Isle, Birch etc or even station your party at Todd Harbor*for a day with canoe or kayaks having one of the ferries pick them up for you and experiencing the rest of the journey on foot I find the IRNP experience to be so much more. Of course weather has to be considered while planning an itineary

[Dogwood]

Sure beat hanging around the ports with all the day tourons.

[chiefiepoo]

Three trips to Isle Royale since 2010. None of it is hard, nowhere near as difficult as the GA mountains. Because of the glacial weight on the land form, getting up to the ridge is a series of sawtooth climbs. Up 200" , down 100'. Up another 200" down 50'.So you get tired of gaining altitude and then giving it back. In between the folds of the ascending ridges, you'll find bogs and small lakes whose water sources are not attractive. the most difficult part of walking the high ridges is lack of water sources. My last trip in August 2014 was hot and dry. Temps in the mid 90"s. I'm a Floridian and accustomed to hight heat and humidity but 3 L of water did not last long. Age may be my weakness but hiking on the ridge with no shade is hard.

[JHersh]

I think part of the confusion is that the term "experienced backpacker" is rather ambiguous. I am 57, started backpacking four years ago, and have completed many overnights and about a half dozen multiday trips, longest being 5 nights. I suspect the NPS would say I am an "experienced backpacker", while in the OP's world, I would be in the category of "noob". I walked from Rock Harbor to Windigo June 3-9, 2017, averaging about 11-12 miles per day. Could I have gone farther? Certainly; I finished each day by mid-afternoon, and was not exhausted. My lungs could have done more, but by mid-afternoon, my feet told me it was time to call it a day. Not really blisters, just sore. Someone who's feet are used to long-distance hiking, with long days, on strenuous, rocky trails will have no problem with 15+ miles per day on Isle Royale. I think the NPS suggestion is for people who look at the topo map, and think "it's the Midwest; must be a piece of cake".

Re the heat on the ridge tops: I too was surprised how hot it could feel, even with 70's temps, with the sun reflecting off the rocks. My one suggestion is take more water than you think you will need.

[tdoczi]

wow, funnily enough this thread really took off while i was out doing the hiking!

i'm back, great trip overall, enjoyed the island in general very much, had amazing weather.

but the minong ridge trail.... blech. isle royale i'll go back to. that trail though? no thank you. and not cause it was hard, i banged it out in a day and a half as planned. and no, please dont tell me moving that "fast" is why i didnt like it. especially since you pretty much have to do N desor to windigo in one haul no matter what.


i dont have the time to go through everything posted since i left nor give a really full rundown on the trip, but i looped from RH to windigo using all of minong, most of the part of the greenstone that is between those 2 places, all of rock harbor, all of tobin harbor, and parts or all of the trails necessary to connect them up.

it was mostly easy hiking with brief (VERY BRIEF, like 5 minutes brief) hard spots that were very spaced out.

[tdoczi]

Tdoczi you mentioned other forums that discussed Isle Royale backpacking. Can you share the websites? Isle Royale sounds like a trip I'd like to try.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

isleroyaleforums.com

its not as busy a place as this is but i through up my same OP question there and got a useful handful of replies to it.

[tdoczi]

oh, and you really missed the point of my post- the NPS is basically giving out 40 yo info

ahh lol gotcha. sorry for the misread.

they do seem big on trying to warn people off there. has people getting lost or otherwise into trouble there really ever been an issue?

seems most of the people there just stay within a few miles of RH and windigo (or theyre boat people) and the only people who venture further are the ones who really know what theyre doing.

[tdoczi]

I think part of the confusion is that the term "experienced backpacker" is rather ambiguous. I am 57, started backpacking four years ago, and have completed many overnights and about a half dozen multiday trips, longest being 5 nights. I suspect the NPS would say I am an "experienced backpacker", while in the OP's world, I would be in the category of "noob". I walked from Rock Harbor to Windigo June 3-9, 2017, averaging about 11-12 miles per day. Could I have gone farther? Certainly; I finished each day by mid-afternoon, and was not exhausted. My lungs could have done more, but by mid-afternoon, my feet told me it was time to call it a day. Not really blisters, just sore. Someone who's feet are used to long-distance hiking, with long days, on strenuous, rocky trails will have no problem with 15+ miles per day on Isle Royale. I think the NPS suggestion is for people who look at the topo map, and think "it's the Midwest; must be a piece of cake".

Re the heat on the ridge tops: I too was surprised how hot it could feel, even with 70's temps, with the sun reflecting off the rocks. My one suggestion is take more water than you think you will need.

i dont think i'm THAT much more experienced than you are. i'd say maybe twice or three times as much experience, but in a 2x2 is 4 sort of way, not a 1000x2 is 2000 sort of way.

i think the issue is more about preference/physical capabilities and maybe the problem is the NPS thinking all "experienced backpackers" are the same.

[Odd Man Out]

Sure beat hanging around the ports with all the day tourons.

Can be entertaining though. We were at the dock at Rock Harbor. There were a flock of ducks at the water edge being stalked by a fox on the bushes. Just then a large group came out of the dining hall and walked town the path to the dock. Just as the crowd was between the fox and the ducks, the fox pounced, through the legs of the people going for the ducks. The people screamed and scattered thinking they were under attack. The ducks squawked and took took the air and the poor fox looked bewildered and come away empty handed, all while we watched from maybe just 10 yards away. It was a great show.

[Hikingjim]

Almost all short trails (less than ~70 miles) in Canada I've done advertise ridiculously low mileage estimates
"this rugged trail will take you 7-10 days!!". Sure, if you hike 2-4 hours a day then sit around the fire for 10 hours and burn all the wood in the forest

[Odd Man Out]

Almost all short trails (less than ~70 miles) in Canada I've done advertise ridiculously low mileage estimates
"this rugged trail will take you 7-10 days!!". Sure, if you hike 2-4 hours a day then sit around the fire for 10 hours and burn all the wood in the forest

Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.

[Dogwood]

Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.

Recently looking at the same trail. Sounds interesting.

[Hikingjim]

Yes, I was looking at the shoreline trail 9n Lake Superior PP and their description was along those lines.

Are you talking about the coastal trail?
I have done that one and combined it with the pukaskwa coastal hiking trail which is a couple hours away from that
Typically went about 12-15 mpd on those, which is less than when I'm on moderate AT sections. But was enjoying the scenery and there are sections where you go a bit slower with rocks, etc, but definitely not crazy hard!

Not huge elevation, but enough crap to get in the way and great scenery to relax at. The loop at killarney provincial park is the 3rd nice hike in that region, although it's a bit far from the others. Elevation adds up a bit more there, and often pretty steep

I pass a lot of hikers that go on one trip a year and have 50 lb packs for the "8 day trek". they are typically having a blast regardless!

[Odd Man Out]

Are you talking about the coastal trail?
I have done that one and combined it with the pukaskwa coastal hiking trail which is a couple hours away from that
Typically went about 12-15 mpd on those, which is less than when I'm on moderate AT sections. But was enjoying the scenery and there are sections where you go a bit slower with rocks, etc, but definitely not crazy hard!

Not huge elevation, but enough crap to get in the way and great scenery to relax at. The loop at killarney provincial park is the 3rd nice hike in that region, although it's a bit far from the others. Elevation adds up a bit more there, and often pretty steep

I pass a lot of hikers that go on one trip a year and have 50 lb packs for the "8 day trek". they are typically having a blast regardless!

Yes, I've looked at both of those. Closer than IRNP for me. I was at Lake Superior PP a few years ago, but just on a day trip while car camping down at Pancake Bay. Didn't get further north than that. Definitely want to go back.