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  1. #1
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    Default 1st Hike Recommendation, Please (Virginia)

    Hi. I'm looking for recommendations on a first overnight on the AT for my adult daughter and I. I'm looking for a trail with a nice shelter, a great trail (ie: not boring terrain and views) but not too challenging. It'll be an out and back to test some gear, and see how she does in a shelter or tent right outside of the shelter. I'm hoping for a shelter within about 10 miles of the parking spot - don't want to get too deep into it if our legs or backs give out, etc. You folks know the drill. You've probably been in this spot yourselves. Thoughts please?????

  2. #2
    Registered User Pastor Bryon's Avatar
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    Crabtree Falls Trailhead (NOBO 826.4), hike south to the Seeley Woodworth Shelter, you'll get Spy Rock in between on first day, going about 8 miles including the approach trail (which is a little tough, no switchbacks), then on your return trip, if you get to the crossing and feel good, go another mile or so and get the view from the Priest, then turn around and head home. Great views. Still have time, go see Crabtree Falls, too while you are there. You'll need good clearance on your vehicle to get to the parking spot. Feel free to PM if you have questions.

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    McAfee Knob is a very popular hike to one of the most photographed spots on the AT. There are several campgrounds and shelters along the trail. Pretty easy as the parking area is at the top of the ridge so you don't have a steep climb. However it is very popular so the may be a crowd, especially on weekends. Dispersed camping (away from designated areas) is not allowed. Another option that is not far from there, but would be much quieter is Sinking Creek Mountain. It's a couple ridges West (SOBO) from McAfee Knob. This was my favorite section in that area. There is a shelter up on the mountain and one one the north side. There are road crossings in the valleys at either side. I don't recall the milages, but you could probably put other something appropriate. There are some fun but not difficult rock scrambles with views along the ridge.

  4. #4

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    Looks like you could hop on I64 and be at Rockfish gap in a few hours. Toss a coin and go north or south from there. The Paul C. Wolf shelter is easy to get to and is in a nice setting.

    I rate the Harpers creek shelter (north of VA56, Tye river) is one of the nicest shelters and settings in Virginia and ranks high overall on the AT. But if you go this route, you'd want to climb the Three Ridges and that's a bit of a work out. But it could be done as a day hike from the shelter. Hike into the shelter on Friday evening and have all day Saturday to do the climb.

    Or you could head into the SNP a little ways. That is the easiest way to go.
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  5. #5
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    Grayson Highlands is where you want to go. Great views, open country, and horses roaming around. Drive right up into the park.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by moldy View Post
    Grayson Highlands is where you want to go. Great views, open country, and horses roaming around. Drive right up into the park.
    Hands down IMO the icing on the cake for Virginia. You just cant go wrong with Grayson Highlands
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reeko View Post
    Hi. I'm looking for recommendations on a first overnight on the AT for my adult daughter and I. I'm looking for a trail with a nice shelter, a great trail (ie: not boring terrain and views) but not too challenging. It'll be an out and back to test some gear, and see how she does in a shelter or tent right outside of the shelter. I'm hoping for a shelter within about 10 miles of the parking spot - don't want to get too deep into it if our legs or backs give out, etc. You folks know the drill. You've probably been in this spot yourselves. Thoughts please?????
    Where in Va are you and how far do you care to drive?

    The Shenandoahs sound just like what you’re looking for. Plus you’d get to drive down Skyline Drive, which is a treat.

  8. #8
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    Mount Pleasant and/or Cold/Cole mountain. (Same parking lot). Not too much climbing, short loops, water, and you're not too far from the car if you need to bail.

  9. #9
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    i'm going to vote against the area that seems closest to you and that others have mentioned. the area north and south of the tye river is some of my least favorite hiking in a supposedly nice area ive ever done, though perhaps a willingness to venture far off the AT is key to enjoying that region. its harder than advertised (though not super hard by any stretch) and not really all that scenic.

    i have yet to hike very much just south of there, but it would seem like it can't help but be a way better choice. damascus would be good too but that is very far from you.

    SNP is nice too but if youre going there take the time to go 25 or 30 miles north from rockfish gap as its much nicer in the middle.

  10. #10

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    Actually, most of Virginia is boring, especially when the green tunnel is a green tunnel. Power line and pipe line cuts offer the only views. I don't know if anyone has brushed the trail north of Pearisburg, but last time I went through there it was seriously overgrown. And contrary to popular belief, Virginia is not flat. In fact it's quite bumpy with a lot of PUDs. It's those micro bumps which don't show up on the profile map which get you.

    But it's not all bad. In 500 miles you'd expect to find some nice areas. Grayson Highlands is okay. The ponies, the ponies - big deal. Dragons tooth/McAfee knob/Tinker cliffs is really nice, but often extremely crowded. Three ridges and the Priest is a good section, but a real workout. The SNP is just a tourist trap. Having to cross the road 52 times gets old.

    But all in all, I kind of like Virginia and will be doing it again this spring.
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  11. #11

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    Google Grayson highlands images and the decision will be made for you!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slo-go'en View Post
    Actually, most of Virginia is boring, especially when the green tunnel is a green tunnel. Power line and pipe line cuts offer the only views. I don't know if anyone has brushed the trail north of Pearisburg, but last time I went through there it was seriously overgrown. And contrary to popular belief, Virginia is not flat. In fact it's quite bumpy with a lot of PUDs. It's those micro bumps which don't show up on the profile map which get you.

    But it's not all bad. In 500 miles you'd expect to find some nice areas. Grayson Highlands is okay. The ponies, the ponies - big deal. Dragons tooth/McAfee knob/Tinker cliffs is really nice, but often extremely crowded. Three ridges and the Priest is a good section, but a real workout. The SNP is just a tourist trap. Having to cross the road 52 times gets old.

    But all in all, I kind of like Virginia and will be doing it again this spring.
    i liked damascus to mt roger's HQ, and not because of the ponies. and i like the central area of SNP. the other area of VA ive hiked is jennings creek (i know, weird place to start/end a hike) to RFG and i basically thought it was the pits. the triple crown area has to at least be a bit nicer. i'm curious as to what mt rogers HQ to pearisburg or so will be like. i'm fearful itll be another bit of unpleasantness.

    the so called "VA blues" isnt just because its long and it isnt just for thru hikers. since i got myself to the point where hiking a new section of AT requires either going to VA or taking a 12 hour drive ive done a lot less hiking on the AT. i just cant psych myself up for a weeklong hike in central VA.

  13. #13
    Registered User kestral's Avatar
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    My son’s first out of state hike was Grayson highlands. He still talks about it and thinks it’s magical. Was a little freaked out by the long horned cattle though ;*)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdoczi View Post
    i liked damascus to mt roger's HQ, and not because of the ponies. and i like the central area of SNP. the other area of VA ive hiked is jennings creek (i know, weird place to start/end a hike) to RFG and i basically thought it was the pits. the triple crown area has to at least be a bit nicer. i'm curious as to what mt rogers HQ to pearisburg or so will be like. i'm fearful itll be another bit of unpleasantness.
    the so called "VA blues" isnt just because its long and it isnt just for thru hikers. since i got myself to the point where hiking a new section of AT requires either going to VA or taking a 12 hour drive ive done a lot less hiking on the AT. i just cant psych myself up for a weeklong hike in central VA.
    Well, unfortunately if you didn't like Jennings Creek to Rockfish Gap then most of the trail south of there is even less appealing IMO. The worst part for me was from Pearisburg to Roanoke/Hwy 311. The trail goes perpendicular to the ridges on this section, which means several back to back 1000'-2000' climbs with not a whole lot to offer in terms of scenery. As a rebuttal, the Mid Atlantic states (MD, PA, NY, NJ) don't seem appealing to me and I'll probably have a difficult time psyching myself up to complete that part.

    To answer the OP's question, I've hiked everything south of Rockfish Gap and my favorite parts so far have been:
    1) Grayson Highlands (can be crowded on weekends),
    2) Chestnut Knob (not easily accessible by car),
    3) McAfee Knob/Tinker Cliffs (also can be crowded on weekends),
    4) Apple Orchard Mtn/Apple Orchard Falls,
    5) The Priest/Three Ridges (difficult, wouldn't recommend for a first hike)

    Out of these, I'd actually recommend Apple Orchard Mtn. It's reasonably close to the OP. There's a FS parking area nearby with a short (~1 mi) hike down to the falls, which are about 200' high. Then you could hike about 3 miles NOBO on the AT over Apple Orchard Mtn (and through 'The Guillotine') to get to the first shelter, spend the night there, and head back the next day.
    It's all good in the woods.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleRock View Post
    As a rebuttal, the Mid Atlantic states (MD, PA, NY, NJ) don't seem appealing to me and I'll probably have a difficult time psyching myself up to complete that part.
    MD is easy and short

    PA many people would say is not fun.

    NY and NJ though.... i think, as many before you have, youre going to find yourself pleasantly surprised.
    now MA on the other hand....

  16. #16
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    I'm on the east coast just east of Williamsburg. SNP is about a 3 hour drive to the Rockfish Gap entrance on the southern end. Day hiked and tent camped SNP a lot. It's the backpacking part that's new. Thanks for the input!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdoczi View Post
    MD is easy and short

    PA many people would say is not fun.

    NY and NJ though.... i think, as many before you have, youre going to find yourself pleasantly surprised.
    now MA on the other hand....
    I loved MD and NJ and really enjoyed the 25 or so miles of NY that I saw last year.

    But I think you are right that the best way to describe PA is just not fun. Most of the southern half is unremarkable and a little boring, and the rocks of the northern half just eat your shoes and never seem to end. Barely any views and lots of bugs.
    I will say though, that the people along the trail in PA were some of the nicest I have ever met. Wonderful people all around, on trail and off trail. I wouldn't hesitate to hike PA again, but it wouldn't shoot to the top of my list.

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