White Mountains Early July - Shelters Busy?

[ldsailor]

I could use a little help from the hikers in New Hampshire and thereabouts or actually anyone who has gone through the White Mountains in the summer.

First, I am in the planning stage for my LASH this summer. I project hitting the Whites and the Beaver Brook Shelter, specifically, around the July 1. I'm not going to stay in the huts because of cost. So what do you think my chances are of getting a space in the shelters in that area or at least a campsite as I hike NOBO? My concern is I'll hit it at probably one the busiest times of the year.

Second, I'm a slow hiker, but I can do 15 miles per day if I need to and numerous times I have done 20 miles or over from Springer to where I stopped last year at Wind Gap. Is it reasonable to plan on doing between 12 to 15 miles per day in the Whites to get to the shelters? That's including a stay at the Lake of the Clouds Dungeon if I can get it. I have read a lot about hikers having their mileage cut in half in the Whites. If that is true, is it all the Whites or just a portion?

Thanks for your help.

[tdoczi]

I could use a little help from the hikers in New Hampshire and thereabouts or actually anyone who has gone through the White Mountains in the summer.

First, I am in the planning stage for my LASH this summer. I project hitting the Whites and the Beaver Brook Shelter, specifically, around the July 1. I'm not going to stay in the huts because of cost. So what do you think my chances are of getting a space in the shelters in that area or at least a campsite as I hike NOBO? My concern is I'll hit it at probably one the busiest times of the year.

Second, I'm a slow hiker, but I can do 15 miles per day if I need to and numerous times I have done 20 miles or over from Springer to where I stopped last year at Wind Gap. Is it reasonable to plan on doing between 12 to 15 miles per day in the Whites to get to the shelters? That's including a stay at the Lake of the Clouds Dungeon if I can get it. I have read a lot about hikers having their mileage cut in half in the Whites. If that is true, is it all the Whites or just a portion?

Thanks for your help.

i can pull 20 south of glencliff, maybe even push to 23 or 24 depending, without much issue.

16 in the whites or the harder part of ME about kills me though. more or less all of it. there are some easier stretches, but they arent long enough to make a huge difference.

but for the record, the "easy" parts are from kinsman notch up to the base of south kinsman mountain, zealand falls hut out to crawford notch, and from the bottom of the descent off of north carter out to rt 2.

i would also add that i thought the northbound ascent of moosilauke is actually easy. much easy then the impression that is given of moosilauke. theyre theyre thinking of the other side of the mountain when people spin horror stories of how hard it is.

some say the top of the ridgeline (aside from the climbs you have to make over washington and madison) in the presis is easy, and i can see how it would be but i never have an easy time on terrain like that.
july will be busy. cant say ive ever taken close notice on shelter usage, but the woods will be overflowing with people.

[Slo-go'en]

For much of NH, plan on 1 mph. The steep descents are just as bad (and slow) as the steep climbs. At your age, it will be a definite challenge. You should seriously consider using the huts. If you join the AMC and do a package deal, it's almost affordable. Using the huts you can seriously lighten your load which will be of great help to your knees and improve your agility, of which you will need plenty of.

Activity picks up after July 4th. Weekends are always busy. Camping is extremely limited and restricted, despite what some other may say. Campsites fill up quickly so if your old and slow and arrive late, the pickings are slim to non-existent, which is another reason to have reservations at the huts.

If your going to spend the cash to come all the way here, splurge on the huts and have a much more enjoyable hike with a lot less fuss.

[rickb]

Here is a poll I started on this topic some time ago:

https://whiteblaze.net/forum/showthr...tes+space+poll

I am convinced that in the vast majority of situations, everything works out fine if. Infact, the AMC put a formal program in place which guarantees thru hikers space at those site where they provide a caretaker.

No need to stay at the huts, but know that you are always welcome to hang out, get water and snacks and a comfortable ****ter during the day — just walk in like you owned the place and sign the registers with something funny (because they will still be there 30+ years later when you return at an age or stage when you need them).

Bottom lime, don’t stress out too much about this.

[rickb]

Duplicate post deleated.

[peakbagger]

Shelters are busy from the June to end of September. There are caretakers from Kinsman Pond to the camping area near Mitzpah Hut (name I cant remember). They will pack folks in and then direct them to overflow spots.

[moldy]

I'm a shelter rat and I like to stay in them in most areas. Not the Whites. They are poorly spaced and situated too far off trail before we ever get to the issue of crowded and expensive. The Whites are the only place on the entire trail that I stealth camp between Beaver brook and Rattle river which is most of it. There are plenty of great stealth places in the Whites to camp. In June when school lets out the place is a circus. You will be shocked at how slow you will be going after you depart Beaver brook and 8 or 9 miles will be a good day.

[tdoczi]

They are poorly spaced and situated too far off trail

without getting into it i'll just say there are reasons for this that are well thought and legitimate. this isnt just carelessness or lack of thoughtfulness or something even more nefarious.

the whites just arent planned around whats best for the AT

[ldsailor]

Thanks for all the good info. I guess I am going to dial back my plans somewhat and plan for only a maximum of 10 miles per day. That will mean some stealth camping. I'm also going to look into the huts. I hate to spend as much money as they charge, but it may be in my best interest to stay in at least a few.

[rubyvermonter]

I don't have a data book in front of me, so I am not certain of the accuracy of my information. However, from memory I can say this: There is a shelter/campsite after Moosilauke and before the Kinsmans. From there you pass right by Lonesome Lake Hut and a few miles later can camp at the Liberty Springs Campsite. (I don't recommend descending to Greenleaf Hut because it is out of the way). Next you can camp at Garfield Campsite. Then there is Galehead Hut. (Although on the map it doesn't look difficult, the terrain between Mt. Lafayette and Galehead Hut is rough). Then there is Ethan Pond Campsite. At Mizpah Springs, you can either stay at the hut or in the campsite. It is 5 difficult miles from Mizpah Springs to Lakes of the Clouds Hut (below Washington). It is a very difficult 8 miles or so from Lakes over Mt. Washington to Madison Hut. Between Mt. Washington and Madison Hut, you can drop below tree line a mile or two to get to a shelter. After Madison Hut, there is Osgood Campsite or, in a few miles more, Pinkham Notch with bunks. From there, you ascend to Carter Notch Hut, which I believe does not provide food but has cooking facilities. Between about Mizpah Springs and north of the Carters , there is not much opportunity for stealth camping because you are either above tree-line or too close to a hut and camping is illegal. Hut caretakers routinely move thru hikers off of illegal sites. However, the huts allow two or four thru-hikers to do a work for stay. As someone mentioned above, you have to get there early.
I agree with the recommendation that you reduce your food weight and stay at some huts. You should always go into a hut, use the bathroom, rest, and get drinking water. You can also buy leftovers like soup, bread, and baked goods, or candy and energy bars. Most hut space is already booked for summer week-ends but you should be able to make a reservation for mid-week stays. Enjoy the White Mountains! Hope for clear skies as the views are superb.

[Slo-go'en]

If you plan to "stealth" camp in the Whites, bring a hammock. The number of places you can set up a tent are extremely limited (legally or not) and the chances of finding one 10 miles from where you started in the morning is slim to none.

You are either climbing or descending steep trails with dense pine tree growth on either side mixed in with the boulders. Flat spots tend to be boggy. There are long stretches where camping of any kind is not permitted, like above tree line.

Also keep in mind that there will be a fair number of thru hikers, section hikers and locals all looking to use those few stealth sites, which at most can only hold one or two tents. This is not something you can count on.

The good news is that most of the designated camping sites are about 10 miles apart.

If your starting at Beaver Brook shelter, you have to climb up and over Moosilauke first, which is one heck of a way to start a section hike. Then you need to climb out of Kinsman notch the next day, another dozy of a climb. That's a couple of rough first days. Hope it's not raining, or more likely, get caught in a thunderstorm.

The main problem will be between Eliza Brook and Liberty Springs campsites. It's only 11 miles, but will be 11 hours of hard hiking. You could stop short at Franconia Notch, but you can't camp next to the highway and the state campground is a few miles up the road. Unless you skip the AT and use a side trail which goes right to the campground, although you have to descend down a cliff to get there.

Lakes of the Clouds is pretty much a must stay. The dungeon only holds 10 people and is really rank. Maybe there would be a slot open when you get there, but probably not. Madison hut is also recommended. To go anywhere else means a big loss of elevation. Might as well go for Carter notch hut too to make that section a lot easier.

[ldsailor]

If you plan to "stealth" camp in the Whites, bring a hammock. The number of places you can set up a tent are extremely limited (legally or not) and the chances of finding one 10 miles from where you started in the morning is slim to none.

The good news is that most of the designated camping sites are about 10 miles apart.

If your starting at Beaver Brook shelter, you have to climb up and over Moosilauke first, which is one heck of a way to start a section hike. Then you need to climb out of Kinsman notch the next day, another dozy of a climb. That's a couple of rough first days. Hope it's not raining, or more likely, get caught in a thunderstorm.

I really appreciate the input. I'm going to use all the recommendations in my planning. While I view Beaver Brook shelter as my start point to the White Mountains (according to Awol), that is not where I'm starting this year's hike. Last year I finished my LASH at Wind Gap, PA and that is where I'm heading to at the end of May to start this year's LASH and finish the AT. Hopefully, by the time I reach the Whites, I'll be acclimated to the trail enough to do some of those hard miles; although not a lot each day. I have a particular problem going up and while I did it in the Smokies and beyond, I'm trying to be realistic about what I'll be able to do in the Whites. I think I have come up with some realistic hiking plans so far. The longest hike I have planned is between Garfield Ridge Shelter and the Ethan Pond Campsite -14.5 miles. That stretch is mostly downhill, so I'm thinking I can do that distance in one day.

When I finish my planning for the Whites in the next couple of days, I'll post it. Everyone's feedback would be much appreciated.

[Slo-go'en]

Okay, that's different. If your starting at Wind Gap, you'll either be in great shape or worn out. Vermont is the warm up and the first 40 miles of NH is a modest preview of what's to come. By the time you get there, you'll be able to make informed decisions.