Sawvivor
I like that one a lot, Sly. Full cut, 9.5 oz., foam handle, easy to carry.
Building and maintaining trails through my own property for my kids and myself, I've found a basic bowsaw to be damned near ideal. A good sharp blade will power through even small tree trunks. Keep a wedge handyto prevent the wood from pinching down on the sawblade and you are good to go. Of the various folding saws, the small prning saws/hunter's saws are good for branches up to maybe 2 inches in diameter. The Sven Saw is limited by the triangular shape that makes cutting with the tip of the blade impossible. Thus you'll wear out the inner teeth real fast and work too damned hard to get the job done. The Sawvivor gives you full use of the blade teeth, but the blade isn't very long (only 15 inches), giving you about the same useful cutting area as the larger Sven Saw and better cutting area than the small Sven.
There are a number of professional arborist saws from Silky that would work and the Ben Meadows saw is interesting as well. Most of these backless saws are not rigid enough to cope with larger diameter wood, best kept for saplings and similar sized branches a couple four inches.
For intruding new growth creeping into the trail another option is an old-time sickle. Keep it sharp with a fine round file and it'll do a number on the skinny little shoots that creep into the trail (especially that nasty stinging nettle.) Weighs less than a pound with the file. Spray it down with gold metallic paint and play druid at night.
Cutting thick wood with any sort of saw, including chain saws, pretty much demands access to som chainsaw wedges to keep the saw kerf open while sawing, otherwise the blade will get pinched and bind. You can make these on the spot by cutting a hardwood sapling at a steep angle and then cutting off the wedge. Pound it into the kerf behind the blade to open the cut. They can also help direct the fall of upright deadwoods that pose a danger of deadfall onto the trail during high winds.
Andrew "Iceman" Priestley
AT'95, GA>ME
Non nobis Domine, non nobis sed Nomini Tuo da Gloriam
Not for us O Lord, not for us but in Your Name is the Glory
Sly, have you actually tried this saw? I tried it and found the frame too flexible, resulting in poor performance. Worked OK with 2 people so that every stroke was a pull, but that's silly for such a short saw. I love my Sven Saw. And my 3.5 foot crosscut.Originally Posted by Sly
Columbia Sportswear Timber Ridge Folding Camp Saw
$10 on sierra trading post. Not sure the quality though...or how it would hold up against some big items.
Replacement blades available
Opens to stable triangle
High carbon steel blade
ABS handle
Saw blade:20"
Closed:22-½"
Weight: 14 oz.
DebW - are you required to be crosscut certified to be able to officially use that crosscut saw? It's a requirement around here anyways if you are working on gummit land. Its one of the reasons I mostly used the 21 inch pruning saw although I did occassionally break out the heavy iron (5 ft. felling crosscut saw, etc.) for the big stuff.
You have to be certified for a crosscut saw of 4 ft or longer. Mine is 3.5 ft. Handles well for either one or two people.
No, can't say that I have, but someone recommended it. I'm looking though, next next trip I'm supposed to carry a chainsaw!
As the Ridgerunner in the Shenandoah National Park I carried a 13 inch Corona saw that was good up to about a 6 inch limb or small tree. It has received extensive use and is still sharp. I have also carried a 21 inch Corona that can do a good job on a 12 inch tree. The Park Rangers use the Corona saws.
Web Breaker
At least in my experience, if you're out doing trail maintenance weight isn't the biggest issue. You're going to be a lot better off carrying a slightly heavier bow saw that works way better than a lighter saw which can't cut everything you need to. You'll end up exerting more energy trying to use that small saw than you'll save by carrying it. And I've never had an issue carrying bow saws, just make sure you have a guard that stays on well.
About the "do your own" maintenance--I would be pretty careful, especiallly depending on what part of the trail you're on. By incorrectly clearing a drainage, for example, you can actually cause more damage than you avoid. If you want to get more involved, contact your local club or section, and adopt a section of trail. All the clubs involved in trail maintenance are always looking for volunteers, on weekend work hikes and longer term volunteers. Not only will these clubs train you, but they'll give you all the necessary equipment as well.
Agreed. I have had one for 20 years.
On USFS lands you can get into a heap of trouble. You suppose to get permission, in writing, from the Rangers office the land is in. ALL RED TAPE.
Then, if a chainsaw is involved, A LOT OF RED TAPE. I know, I've done the RED TAPE, its almost not worth it, especially for chainsaw use. I've done the chainsaw certification courses-2 days(good for 3 yrs). Red Cross First Aid (good for 3yrs). Red Cross CPR(good for 1 yr), both took one whole day. Then you have a ton of equipment, helmets, ear plugs, safety glasses, certified chaps, boots, long sleeve shirts, gloves, first aid kit. You also have to have an assistant at ALL times when operating a chainsaw. The papers you are given interpret that each and every tree you clear must be approved prior to doing anything, This is the one I draw the line at. If I have to do this each and every time which = 2 trips, one to find the downed tree the other to go and clear it. I'll quit first. The USFS Law Enforcement do not take kindly to unauthorized trail maintainers. The rules for cutting firewood with a permit are not even in the same realm as clearing a trail. You don't have to have the equipment or the training to cut the firewood. Go figure.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
