Trip to Katahdin in Oct

[ETtrailrunner]

Hey guys;
I’m planning a trip to the Katahdin area in early October. My goal is to summit Katahdin, but I would like to explore the other trails in the area.
I won’t be doing any overnight hiking, as I am not in shape to carry a 30+ lb backpack any distance, and don’t sleep well in a tent (although I do own two of them).
I don't think I would have any trouble making the summit and return during daylight.
I will probably stay in Millinocket, then do day trips to the trails.
Any recommendations for motels, etc? I don’t need anything special - just a comfortable bed in a quiet place.
Thanks for your advice.
ET

[peakbagger]

Realize October in the park can be late fall/early winter conditions. There could be icing on the trails. Days are short and temps especially above treeline could be at or near freezing. Driving to and from Millinocket will eat up up and hour and 1/2 a day of daylight.

The closest non tent camping is New England Outdoors Twin Pine camps. They rent cabins. BSP also has bunkhouses at some campgrounds like Roaring Brook and Nesowadnehunk. They have bunkrooms and wood stoves (no power).

As for place to stay in Millinocket, someone else will need to make suggestions as my info is a decade old. The AT lodge should still be in operation dealing with AT stragglers.

[ETtrailrunner]

Thanks peakbagger;
I had thought about the conditions on Katahdin, so I will be bringing a pair of Grivel 14pt crampons and my winter (plastic) boots, and a pair of Hillsound Trail Crampons that will fit my regular hiking boots. I have never had experience doing a self-arrest with the axe, but I have used the crampons, using the ice axe as a hiking pole on Algonquin in December, as well as on less demanding trails that were full of ice.

I hadn't done the mileage from Millinocket yet, so if it's 3/4 of an hour each way (1-1/2 hrs round-trip is what I assume you are saying), then I may need to make plans to sleep at Katahdin Stream Campground on the night before I want to summit. I think I can handle that. I have a 0 degree F sleeping bag - assuming a 20 year old Sierra Designs bag is still good - I'll check it out before I finalize my plans. I also have a 32 degree bag I bought more recently.
I'll have to 'play it by ear' on the weather. If it's really bad, then I will just do day hikes on the lower trails.

I have some high quality (Mountain Hardwear) Gore Tex and fleece clothing, so I think I'm ok in that department. In any case, I will of course check in at the ranger station before beginning any hike.

[perrymk]

I stayed at the Hotel Terrace back in 2021. I think it was the cheapest motel (not hostel) in town. It was a very basic room but I have no complaints. TV, hot shower, private bathroom, bed, even a small table in the room to eat at. I don't recall any noise.

[peakbagger]

I would stick with microspikes and fall boots, if it gets to the point where full crampons are needed the summit trails will probably not be open. October is definitely a month where its can be shorts and T-shirts one day and early winter gear the next but it does get cold at night. If you do not mind socializing, I think the bunkhouse at Roaring Brook is back to individual reservations, its well located to do Katahdin from the east but lousy for dayhiking the popular days on the west side of the mountain (45 minute drive over rough dirt roads). Cabins at Kidney Pond and Daicey Pond (if its open) have wood stoves but pricey for one person. The bunkhouse at Nesowadnehunk is nice but a 25 minute drive north from Katahdin Stream. Its great for doing Doubletop (a must to in the park) and the big loop over Coe and the Brothers (long day but hard to beat). Both have nice views but the trails stay below treeline except for the summits so far less exposure. Most of the hardwood leaves should be on the ground as leaf season usually happens a few weeks earlier, that can make for slippery footing until you get up into the softwoods.


Yes, its 45 minutes (optimistically) from Millinocket to the BSP Togue Pond gate and another 20 minutes to Roaring Brook and closer to 1/2 hour to Katahdin Stream from the Togue Pond gate. Twin Pines is about half way between Millinocket and Togue Pond gate. Lots of wildlife on the roads near and after dark between Millinocket and BSP.

[ETtrailrunner]

One of the primary objectives for my trip is solitude, so I don't think any of the bunkhouses would work for me.
The Hotel Terrace sounds like a good choice.
So I guess leave the full crampons at home, and just take the Hillsound Trail crampons and my regular Lowa boots.

[peakbagger]

I have stayed at the Katahdin Inn and Suites as well as the Baxter Park Inn in the past. They both had their pluses and minuses and both within a mile of each other. The Gateway Inn in Medway is an extra 15 to 20 minutes away from the park (watch the speed limit as the local cops enforce aggressively). There are other lower cost local hotels that used to cater to mil workers but definitely a step down.

BTW not a lot of breakfast options in town. The AT Cafe is great on Penobscot Avenue is popular and definitely not fast. There is a McDonalds and a Dunkin Donuts at the Irving Gas Station across the street. BTW fill up you tank at Irving, once you head to the park not many other options for gas.

If its open, the restaurant at Twin Pine resort is the best eating in town but not cheap.


IMHO,the must climb mountains in the park are

Obviously Katahdin, the grand slam on good day is start at Roaring Brook campground, up Helon Taylor Trail to Pamola, then over the Knife Edge to the summit, then over to Hamlin and down Hamlin Ridge trail to the Chimney Pond trail and back to Roaring Brook. Its long day only to be done in perfect weather. If it windy you can skip the Knife Edge and go to Chimney Pond and up Cathedral trail. to the summit and then down Saddle (if the wind drops take Hamlin Ridge down, its particularly impressive on the descent. Hiking from the west side of the mountain is mostly out and back hikes via the AT or Abol. Be aware if you are tempted to make it a loop, the road walk between Abol and KSC is a narrow very dusty road with zero shoulders and barely enough room for two cars. Plan on eating a lot of dust and get all the way off the road when cars are coming.

Double Top from Nesowadnehunk Campground north approach, The south approach from near Kidney Pond is very nice walk through the woods on old logging roads but the last 1/2 to 1/4 mile up the summit ridge is miserable, nearly straight up a rocky/gravely slide hanging from roots (definitely needs relocation or major reconstruction) Its not a long day from the north probably 4 or 5 hours round trip. It had super views from the two summits and is summit unlike any along the AT due to the sheer cliffs dropping down to the south and the east.

Coe, S and N Brother via Marston Trail and Mt Coe trail. A long day with 3 summits. It starts at Slide Dam north of KSC

Traveler Loop - Its very impressive all day loop with great views but most park visitors skip as its in the NE corner of the park and very long drive from anywhere. Unless someone stays at South Branch Pond campground, its just not practical to day hike it.

The park is staffed mostly with seasonal workers, during the week from late September on there are very few employees in the park and you may not see any except at the gatehouse. You do still need to buy Day use passes for the Katahdin trailheads, you can buy them at the gate farily reliably during the week but on nice weekends reservations are recomended. Be aware you need to pay a road fee to drive in the park, depending on how long you trip is it can add up.

[Mother Natures Son]

How late does Katahdin stay open? Some years they do close early. What is the average date they stay open in Oct.?

[ETtrailrunner]

Thanks guys; you've given me some very valuable info.
Since I haven't done any major hiking for a while, and have intermittent knee issues, I'm going to do some hiking close to home during Sept, to gauge my stamina and knee stability. I guess wearing a knee wrap would be a good idea, regardless of whether I have any pain or not.

[peakbagger]

One of the things at BSP is that you do not go there for the views from the roads. To get up to the views you are going to be hiking on rocks and that can beat on folks not used to it. The Hunt Trail (AT) up Katahdin is almost paved with rocks from the falls to the summit with the boulder field before the plateau a total rock scramble. Even the "easiest" way to the summit via Saddle trail has a 1/2 mile section of light boulder climbing. There are some nice low elevation trails through the softwoods to various remote ponds and waterfalls that are soft and cushioned, but the big views means rocks. South Turner has great views of the east side of Katahdin with a short hike and "easy approach" and Doubletop from the north also has a somewhat more cushioned approach except for the summit ridge but for many, a hike up Katahdin is going to mean a day of rest the next day to let the joints and muscles stop throbbing. There are canoes at many of the remote ponds that can be rented (mostly an honor system) which is nice way to spend a recovery day but unless you are in thru hiker shape dont expect you can do grandslam hikes 3 days in row.

[ETtrailrunner]

Thanks peakbagger;
I will have to try some of the more rocky trails near me before I come to Maine.
Even if I don't go for a summit, I could just do some light hiking on the lower trails. I would not be disappointed, since my main objective is to get some solitude. I'm also going to be looking for a small house, where I can retire to.
A side note: Today I looked on Zillo for homes for sale in Millinocket. One listing boasted a 25 minute drive to Baxter. I guess they weren't talking about the Katahdin Stream campground area, since that's 50 minutes.
In any case, I would love to come to Maine to live; much less hassle than the NYC metro (NJ) area I live in now.

Thru-hiking the A.T. is still on my 'bucket list', but I have to see what I can do to strengthen my legs and core. I am a runner, but run mostly on flat, smooth surfaces. I need to do more core workout, and try some rocky terrain before I come up to Baxter.
Lots of options though; I am very flexible.

[TJ aka Teej]

How late does Katahdin stay open? Some years they do close early. What is the average date they stay open in Oct.?

I posted this in the Baxter forum:

Dates Katahdin trails closed in recent years:
2022 10/20
2021 10/20
2020 10/17
2019 10/29
2018 10/21
2017 10/23
2016 10/24
-
Yes, the Birches and Katahdin Stream stay open thru 10/22, weather permitting, but that doesn't guarantee a trail up will be open.
For many reasons, from services closing to the Kennebec Ferry season ending to short hours of daylight, I always advise NoBos to get to Baxter no later than the first week of October.

[peakbagger]

Thanks peakbagger;
I will have to try some of the more rocky trails near me before I come to Maine.
Even if I don't go for a summit, I could just do some light hiking on the lower trails. I would not be disappointed, since my main objective is to get some solitude. I'm also going to be looking for a small house, where I can retire to.
A side note: Today I looked on Zillo for homes for sale in Millinocket. One listing boasted a 25 minute drive to Baxter. I guess they weren't talking about the Katahdin Stream campground area, since that's 50 minutes.
In any case, I would love to come to Maine to live; much less hassle than the NYC metro (NJ) area I live in now.

Thru-hiking the A.T. is still on my 'bucket list', but I have to see what I can do to strengthen my legs and core. I am a runner, but run mostly on flat, smooth surfaces. I need to do more core workout, and try some rocky terrain before I come up to Baxter.
Lots of options though; I am very flexible.

Lots of folks wanting to get out of the rat race during and post covid moved up to central and northern Maine because housing was cheap as the area is sort of permanently depressed. If you are serious about relocating you have a lot of state to visit as Maine is a very large state. Most maps are distorted and they tend to make Maine look small. Its 7 hours from Kittery in the SE corner of the state to Fort Kent in the North. BTW, Maines overall tax burden is one of the top 10 in the US, NH is in the top ten of the lowest. Great place to visit but expensive to live in. BTW Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument is just next door to BSP. Free to visit.

[ETtrailrunner]

Thanks for the heads-up. Could any state have higher taxes than NJ?
As for the A.T., I would most likely do a NOBO hike; my impression is that the southern half of the trail is less rocky; It should be, since the glacier didn't reach that far south. I have heard 'horror' stories about Maine's sections of the trail.

Edit: NJ has the highest property taxes of all states @ 2.47%, while Maine is less than half that @ 1.28%.

Back on the subject of the A.T.; have you read 'Lost on the Appalachian Trail' by Kyle Rohrig? He talks about how rocky the trail becomes once you reach PA. And I used to think that Harriman Park NY was rocky!

[LoneStranger]

How late does Katahdin stay open? Some years they do close early. What is the average date they stay open in Oct.?

They set the close date at the start of the season around Oct 15th. Heavy early snow can lead to an early closure of the summit trails though.

[ETtrailrunner]

Does anyone have any experience staying at the Hotel Terrace? It's $40 per night less than the Katahdin Inn & Suites, and is also a 2* rated hotel. Hotel Terrace earned an 8.1 rating vs 6.9 rating for Katahdin Inn & Suites on Priceline.com.

I'm also considering taking Amtrak from New York City to Bangor - via Boston (bus from Portland to Bangor), and renting a car in Bangor, or perhaps Amtrak to Portland and renting a car there. I don't particularly enjoy long distance driving, and my Subaru Forester - although still in perfect running condition - is 19 years old. A newer rental might be advantageous, with the safety equipment that comes on new vehicles.

[peakbagger]

Amtrak only goes to Brunswick Maine. To get to Bangor, you need to get on the bus in Portland and then on to Medway. Cyr bus lines runs the bus past Medway. Its a lot faster driving from Portland to Medway than taking the bus. Shuttles are going to cost more than renting a car and driving. Take the Interstate coastal route up through Brunswick to Augusta rather than the Maine turnpike, they join together into I95 north of there. its roughly 2 hours to Bangor and another hour to Millinocket. It is very remote once you drive past Orono, they never got around to naming the towns you are driving through. If you have the time, plan a stop at LL Beans in Freeport to the main store, its quite a place.

No beta on Hotel Terrace, long ago it was the place contractors stayed long term when they were working in the mill but the mill and the contractors are long gone. My friend who does occasionally work on the hydro dams usually stays at the Katahdin Inn as that is the place the hydro dam owner uses.

BTW, GPS maps of the side roads and in the park are crap, if you try to follow them, they will lead you to roads that have not existed for decades or trails. Cell coverage fades out once you leave Millinocket. Bring paper maps. The only place cells work in the park are up hgh above treeline.

[ETtrailrunner]

Thanks for the good advice, peakbagger;
This morning, I am having some pain in both my knees, so I'm very skeptical about whether I can make the Katahdin summit. If I do try, I'll take the easiest route, and turn around if anything starts to hurt me, or if I find I'm moving too slowly to get back by dusk.
I will probably wind up driving my own car; the vehicle may be almost 20 years old, but it has never broken down on me. I do have AAA Gold - but would not expect to get anyone on my way from Millinocket to Baxter, even if there is cell service.

[ETtrailrunner]

What are the best paper maps of Baxter?

[peakbagger]

If you stop by the BSP Headquarters in Millinockt, they sell several types and have samples.