You're a fine one to talk. Don't forget I've been in camp with you and Tinker.
my dog is ten years old and he's great dragging me uphills
Would you be offended if I told you to
TAKE A HIKE!
CowHead
"If at first you don't succeed......Skydiving is not for you" Zen Isms
I once was lost, then I hike the trail
My dog has picked up some bad habits from some of the Trail Legends.
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/...imageuser=6217
I'm not really a hiker, I just play one on White Blaze.
my moneys on the griz, you'd be better off with a can of cheese wiz!
Nothing like being out of water and getting to a water hole that someones dog has just muddied up and having to shoo it out repeatedly and having the owner be miffed because you think humans come first.
One thing I've learned hiking with Peanut is that she's exceptionally observant. She walks "around" things versus over/thru them. It took me a while to figure out what she was doing and it's actually made me more observant. Example- she went to side of a small leaf pile instead of plowing right through it like she normally does, the reason? A pair of land snails were in the middle of it mating. She's also careful about where exactly she walks, not that she doesn't like mud cause she loves getting dirty, but she can pick out areas very quickly that aren't particularly safe to walk on (ie deep mud, marsh)
~CJ aka WritinginCT
"It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
This my have been suggested earlier, and if so, I apologize. I get short on time and I'm not able to read all posts.
As a student in the process of becoming a certified dog trainer, this is my suggestion/opinion:
If you want her to still be a guard dog, it is not the barking/alerting that is the biggest issue (not saying that it isn't an issue at all), it's the charging ("bolting") at strangers and the issue of her not paying attention to you when she is fixated on something (especially on the trail) that seems to be the biggest, more urgent issue. My suggestion would be to start training her on a leash to the come command:
Have her be distracted by something (NOT fixated- something interesting, from a distance), and then say "[Dog's Name], come" in a calm-assertive tone. If she doesn't come, DO NOT repeat the cue (if you do, she will learn that you have to say it more than once before she complies). If she doesn't come, give the leash a little pull, and, if necessary, a pat on your leg to initiate her interest, and then treat her when she reaches you. Let her get distracted again, and repeat. Slowly increase and decrease the distance, as well as the distractions, once she is 90% successful at each interval- this will help her feel a generalization to all circumstances. When she starts complying exceptionally well at least 90% of the time at each distance with distractions, you can move closer/add more distractions (but don't do both at once; i.e. only decrease distance without adding more distractions, and visa versa). Once she is used to complying on-leash, start the same process over without leash (this will be harder if she is not successful on-leash, obviously). And eventually you can start incorporating real-life rewards (attention, praise, toys) instead of treats (it's best to make it a surprise everytime, once with attention, next a treat, then praise, etc.) BOTH ON AND OFF LEASH. Within just a few training sessions, you should see her looking to you when she notices a distraction, rather than becoming fixated on whatever distracted her in the first place.
Please be aware that most dogs learn that going to their owner often means the end of fun (during play time, after potty, etc.). Most often, we're calling them to come back to us and enter the house where they become bored out of their mind. Especially during the training for the come cue, you should allow them to go back to playing after they get treated and you give them your release cue "okay" or "all done." They should not associate coming to you with the end of their free, fun time. Always make it enjoyable, and ALWAYS set them up for success (ie. if, during training, the dog gets far too distracted or too frustrated, end the session and start again later on, or move farther away from distractions to a situation that she is always successful at (we call it "going back to kindergarten"), etc... make it possible for the dog to succeed EVERY time).
"Bolting" is an issue of her not knowing her boundaries. Does she "bolt" out the door or out of your lawn at home to confront (not attack) strangers that are, what you would consider, a safe distance from your house? If this is something you need to address I can give some suggestions for that as well. You can personal message me if you like, as I don't know how soon in the future I'll be looking at this post again.
As far as the alert barking goes, I would suggest a certified dog trainer (www.animalbehaviorcollege.com has a list of certified trainers all over the country) to help with when/where you want to be alerted, and when it is innapropriate for the dog to do so. It'll be a much harder task, IMO, and I don't think anything I type here could help with that situation as it has to do with your preference rather than a truly specific issue.
If any of this was too jumpled, and you need clarity, don't hesitate to ask!
I hope this helped, and I apologize again if this has already been addressed. Maybe if you already got what you needed, this info could at least be helpful for someone else.
Best of luck to all of you!
I'll try a billion things before I die. Some I'll hate; others I'll love. Some may call me fickle, but I'd rather be so, than wonder what might have been.
ALSO- this may be common sense, but I feel it needs mentioning: it may be best to practice these commands in the woods more frequently than not if it is the trail where she has the most trouble complying with your commands.
I'll try a billion things before I die. Some I'll hate; others I'll love. Some may call me fickle, but I'd rather be so, than wonder what might have been.