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  1. #1
    Registered User Doctari's Avatar
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    Default fire proof lid for a jet boil pot??

    I want to get a jet boil, at least the pot, but the pot comes with a plastic lid, which works just fine for use with the stove, but from time to time I really like to cook over a campfire, & I do believe that would seriously melt the lid. And ash in my food is not something I want to deal with long term.

    Anyone made a metal lid for their JetBoil? (HOW?)
    Or:
    Found a sutable replacement?

    I thought of forming aluminum foil over it, but that seems a short term solution, & would likely need replacement very often.
    Curse you Perry the Platypus!

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    Don't want to burst your bubble on the plan, but,

    I think the metal "fins" on the bottom of a Jetboil pot would melt over a fire.

    Taking the cozy off/on would be friggy.

    I find mine sticks on readily. (solo)

    But it does boil water like a beast.

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    Gonna second Mudhead. The JetBoil pots are totally unsuitable for cooking over a fire. Even if you didn't melt the heat exchanger thingy off the bottom of the pot you'd soot it up something fierce, which would render most of the advantages of the JetBoil moot.

    Short version: JetBoil and cowboy style cooking are incompatible.

  4. #4
    Registered User rusty075's Avatar
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    You won't melt the fins. The flame temp for a wood fire is roughly the same as a propane/butane fire, ~1950°C. If anything the fins get much hotter while attached to the jetboil burner since its combustion is much more controlled and efficient than that of a campfire, where you're not likely to have the pot right in the hottest part of the fire.

    I know, not really an answer to your question, but didn't want you to get pulled down the wrong path by the rectal extractions above.

    I would think that a couple of layers of heavy duty aluminum foil would do the trick. You may have to replace it once a month or so, but the raw materials to do so should be pretty easy to find.

  5. #5

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    If you can get hold of a printing press plate, the things that are used on an offset press to form the image on the paper, they are a bit tougher than foil and would be a bit more heavy duty. They are still formable and light. just a bit more substantial.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty075 View Post
    You won't melt the fins. The flame temp for a wood fire is roughly the same as a propane/butane fire, ~1950°C. If anything the fins get much hotter while attached to the jetboil burner since its combustion is much more controlled and efficient than that of a campfire, where you're not likely to have the pot right in the hottest part of the fire.

    I know, not really an answer to your question, but didn't want you to get pulled down the wrong path by the rectal extractions above.
    Speaking of rectal extractions, your first paragraph is correct about the temp of combustion being equal for propane and wood, but full of rectal extractions about 1977* being hotter if arrived at in a efficient manner. Also, a wood fire is not a small blow torch or jetted flame where a half inch is critical. Put the pot so the flames hit it and the heat transferrance is basically the same no matter where in the flame it is.

    As far as which is likelier to melt the fins, it could go either way and is indeterminable without a lot more info than is available.

    You are confusing heat and temperature. They aren't the same thing. A wooden match is very hot. A bathtub full of 72* water is not. But which one will melt a big hunk of ice?
    Frosty

  7. #7
    Registered User Doctari's Avatar
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    HMM, Some interesting guesses.

    The fins on the jet boil WILL NOT MELT in a camp fire. Hammock eng. does it all the time, I have seen it on at least 3 of our trips. Once on a fire that melted my gatorade bottle about 2' from the fire the pot was in. The problem is HE gets ash in his food.
    Very likely the cozy would melt in a fire, but that, at least on HE's is easily removed.

    And: THANKS shadowmoss, I'll give that a try. I actually have such a plate, it has the weekday comics printed on one side. Now all I have to do is find it I use piece of it as my wind screen, don't know why I didn't think of that
    Curse you Perry the Platypus!

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    Registered User troglobil's Avatar
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    and if the fins get sooty, they will absorb more heat, making them more efficient

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    I would have to see that in action. I will trust you that it can be done, but I won't be doing it anytime soon. Might be too engineerish for my mindset.

    I don't even like taking the cozy off to clean the thing. Just me.

  10. #10
    Registered User hopefulhiker's Avatar
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    I have seen people cook with a Jet boil directly over the fire. You have to slip off that little foam covering and use a pot holder...I used a jet boil until Damascus then switched to alcohol... It was a lot lighter....

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    Quote Originally Posted by troglobil View Post
    and if the fins get sooty, they will absorb more heat, making them more efficient
    and if you clog the heat exchanger with ash, soot and wood tar you'll reduce the efficiency. I'm also willing to bet you'll void any warranty.

    However, it ain't my stove (I'm a Trangia cultist, not a JetBoilista) and if ya'll wanna take a shot have a good time and let us know how it works out.

  12. #12
    Registered User Skidsteer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctari View Post
    I want to get a jet boil, at least the pot, but the pot comes with a plastic lid, which works just fine for use with the stove, but from time to time I really like to cook over a campfire, & I do believe that would seriously melt the lid. And ash in my food is not something I want to deal with long term.

    Anyone made a metal lid for their JetBoil? (HOW?)
    Or:
    Found a sutable replacement?

    I thought of forming aluminum foil over it, but that seems a short term solution, & would likely need replacement very often.
    A Jetboil cup is the same diameter as an IMUSA aluminum cup from Wal-Mart.

    If you have a safety can opener:



    You can use it to remove the lid of a Bumblebee Sensations tuna can:



    It's all aluminum, extremely light, and should be a perfect fit.



    For a slightly heavier duty lid, you can do the same with a Yuban coffee can. It has a steel rim with aluminum in the center.
    Skids

    Insanity: Asking about inseams over and over again and expecting different results.
    Albert Einstein, (attributed)

  13. #13
    Registered User Doctari's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidsteer View Post
    A Jetboil cup is the same diameter as an IMUSA aluminum cup from Wal-Mart.

    If you have a safety can opener:

    You can use it to remove the lid of a Bumblebee Sensations tuna can:

    It's all aluminum, extremely light, and should be a perfect fit.

    For a slightly heavier duty lid, you can do the same with a Yuban coffee can. It has a steel rim with aluminum in the center.
    OH WOW, thanks! I have a safety can, just need to find the can of tuna.

    I'm happy now!
    Curse you Perry the Platypus!

  14. #14
    Registered User hammock engineer's Avatar
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    I haven't noticed a difference from using it over a fire and then on the stove part concerning soot. The pot of black, but that doesn't effect anything. Works great for me.

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    I'm more than a little surprised at that. How long have you been putting the pot on wood fires?

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    My main concern would be the jacket rather than the fins...

    Have you looked at Primus' Eta line? Possibly their new Eta Express? You can get the pots seperate. If I were looking at burner and woodfire use that's what I'd be looking at not the Jetboil pots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Two Speed View Post
    and if you clog the heat exchanger with ash, soot and wood tar you'll reduce the efficiency. I'm also willing to bet you'll void any warranty.

    However, it ain't my stove (I'm a Trangia cultist, not a JetBoilista) and if ya'll wanna take a shot have a good time and let us know how it works out.
    Actually, I'd bet that soot'd burn off pretty quick when you put a burner to it... at least based on my experiences with my Titanium Burn Test

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    Er... I should have said 'mostly' burn off. I'm sure some soot will remain but not enough to hamper.

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    Mmmm, I was rather under the impression that soot was pretty much completely oxidized. Next, the tars are gonna do strange things. Lanthar, much of my opinion is based on my understanding that the byproducts from wood fires tend to be "messy" unless steps are taken to control the combustion temperature and draft.

    However, I think you may know more about this subject than I do, and I'm not going to have to deal with any problems, so it's more academic than a real source of concern to me. If someone wants to try it long term, what the heck, give it a shot and post the results.

    I'm not trying to egg anyone on, but I'm interested.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Two Speed View Post
    Mmmm, I was rather under the impression that soot was pretty much completely oxidized. Next, the tars are gonna do strange things. Lanthar, much of my opinion is based on my understanding that the byproducts from wood fires tend to be "messy" unless steps are taken to control the combustion temperature and draft.

    However, I think you may know more about this subject than I do, and I'm not going to have to deal with any problems, so it's more academic than a real source of concern to me. If someone wants to try it long term, what the heck, give it a shot and post the results.

    I'm not trying to egg anyone on, but I'm interested.
    Yeah.. soot is actually the non-fully-oxidized organics that volatilize and deposit on the pot. Pure ash, however, has been fully oxidized (aka burned). The reason 'gassification' stove are 'less' sooty is that they oxidize what would otherwise be deposited as soot more fully.

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