1st AT backpack trip! - help!

[airinpie]

I found this site while looking for some info on the AT shelters. I recently moved to Tennessee from Montana, and we are planning our first short backpacking trip here. We live relatively close to the Smokies and are going to be staying at Siler's Bald, Derrick Knob, and Double Springs Gap shelters. After some of the reports I've read on here I'm starting to dread the "shelter" experience. I've always stayed in a tent when backpacking, so this will be new for me. I'm making myself sick over thinking about rats, mice, ticks, and the "bathroom" area. I'm I worrying over nothing, and it's not as bad as what I've read? I never had to deal with this in the west.... I don't know what to do Thanks for your help!
Airin

[Lone Wolf]

hike somewhere other than the smokys and pitch a tent. shelters are dirty, hard and vermin ridden

[envirodiver]

I find the Smokies to be a bit crowded this time of year. They are beautiful, lots of rules. If you want more solitude in your backpacking experience there are many places to go other than the Smokies, or just other than the AT in the Smokies. I go there during the winter when there are a lot less people.

Enjoy and to WB

[gearfreak]

Staying at shelters is a must inside GSMNP. The only way to avoid this is if the shelter is full when you arrive (or waste time after you've arrived until it's full), then you can tent nearby. You'll also need a backcountry permit to hike this section.

[DesertMTB]

You should hike from the Nantahala Outdoor Center to Fontana Lake. That way you don't have to stay in shelters and it is very close to your original plans.

[max patch]

I don't stay in shelters - I usually tent nearby - but I'd be willing to bet that most hikers enjoy shelter life. If they didn't they wouldn't always be full of hikers. So you may not end up hating shelters as much as some of us here do.

Its only 3 nights, take some earplugs and give it a try. Bottom line, if you are going to hike the AT in the GSMNP you're going to have to sleep in a shelter. Which for me is why I haven't been back there since my thru.

[airinpie]

Staying at shelters is a must inside GSMNP. The only way to avoid this is if the shelter is full when you arrive (or waste time after you've arrived until it's full), then you can tent nearby. You'll also need a backcountry permit to hike this section.

we had to make a reservation to stay at the shelter to get a permit. the big south fork area is close to us as well. maybe we can go there instead. when i go backpacking, i'm trying to get AWAY from people

[deeddawg]

First of all, shelters in general really aren't as bad as some make it out to be. They have their downsides but some folks seem to be a bit over dramatic in expressing their opinions about shelters. *shrug* Each to their own. My preference is to hammock in the vicinity of a shelter as I do enjoy the social aspects of shelter proximity at the end of the day.

With that said, some shelters are better than others. Two weeks ago I hiked from Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap with a sidetrip to Mt. LeConte. Of the shelters you list:

Derrick Knob is a new style (no fencing) and in decent shape. Water was running well. Toilet area had some landmines but plenty of space to wander off a bit and take care of business responsibly.

Siler's Bald also new style and in decent shape. Water running well. Don't know about toilet area.

Double Springs Gap - old style shelter with the fence. Dark and dirty. I didn't personally see the water source, someone on a similar itinerary said it wasn't that great.


As much as I like GSMNP, I don't like the restriction of having to stay in the reserved shelter and having to stay on a specific itinerary. Knocking out 13 miles by 2pm and being faced with sitting around the rest of the day isn't my cup of tea. Do consider other portions of the AT either south or north of GSMNP.

[Alligator]

Silers Bald and Double Springs Gap Shelters are really close to one another. There are plenty of non-shelter sites in GSMNP, some are rationed and some not. You don't have to stay right on the AT. You should be able to grab a .pdf of the park from somewhere on the park website.

*Here's the map page.

[airinpie]

Silers Bald and Double Springs Gap Shelters are really close to one another. There are plenty of non-shelter sites in GSMNP, some are rationed and some not. You don't have to stay right on the AT. You should be able to grab a .pdf of the park from somewhere on the park website.

we are doing an out and back. silers on the way out, and double springs on the way back. if it's really nasty, we could just hike another few miles and be back to the car i guess...

[envirodiver]

we had to make a reservation to stay at the shelter to get a permit. the big south fork area is close to us as well. maybe we can go there instead. when i go backpacking, i'm trying to get AWAY from people

I share your thoughts on the idea of getting away from the crowds. But, if you are going to be with a bunch of folks, hiker folks are the best to be around.

I've spent a fair bit of time in Big South Fork and it is very good, Especially for summer hikes. Plenty of water, but it must be treated. Creeks for swimming. Some very nice trails. If you are in Crossville there are a lot of great opportunities around you.

[4eyedbuzzard]

After some of the reports I've read on here I'm starting to dread the "shelter" experience.

The truth usually lies in the middle - like between the opinions of those who call them vermin infested kindling just waiting for the right spark, and those who love them like the log cabins they're not. They are cold and dark and harder than sleeping in a tent and there are often other hikers(smelly and snoring or cooking and eating and partying) and some mice. But in a really bad storm they can often be much better than a tent. Especially in high winds when trees and big branches start falling.

I've always stayed in a tent when backpacking

Then there's no reason to stop except when the park rules require it. As others have said, wait until the shelter is full up or give up your spot to a late arrival or hike outside of GSMNP.

I'm making myself sick over thinking about rats, mice, ticks, and the "bathroom" area. I'm I worrying over nothing, and it's not as bad as what I've read?

You are worrying over basically nothing. I'm sure you had ticks and mice out west too - I sure got my fill of ticks in the sagebrush out there a few times. And the bears here aren't anywhere near the problem grizzlies are out west. I've camped up near Kintla Lake in MT a few times and the bears here are no where near as much of a danger issue. Just hang (bear-bag) your food from trees, bear poles/cables, etc. The only difference in "bear rules" between the two is that in the unlikely event of a true bear attack, unlike grizzly attacks where you are supposed to play dead, if you are ever attacked by a black bear you must fight - punch, kick, hit it with your stove, whatever it takes.

Mostly there are just some little field(shelter) mice in the shelters. Hang your pack and open up ALL the zippers so they can explore if they get in. Helps keep them from chewing holes in your equipment to see what's in there. Most shelters have some cords with cans tied on them to keep the mice from climbing down and in your stuff. Mostly they're just looking for food scraps and nesting material. The hantavirus hoopla is pretty much just myth. There's only been one confirmed case (back in the 1990's) and it couldn't be verified as originating at the AT shelter(s) the guy stayed in.

Just enjoy your hike and stop worrying. You'll have a great time.

[flemdawg1]

There are National Forests at both ends of GSMNP, with literally 1000's of miles of trails to be hiked. No need to be confined by the busiest NP in the country.

[ken209]

we had to make a reservation to stay at the shelter to get a permit. the big south fork area is close to us as well. maybe we can go there instead. when i go backpacking, i'm trying to get AWAY from people

You are close to Savage Gulf, give it a try, not as many regulations as the Smokies.

[Berserker]

I personally do not like sleeping shelters. I just loathe mice chewing on and pooping all over my stuff when I am sleeping, so I tent outside the shelters. Other than sleeping in them they are nice to hang out in, cook in and pack in if it is raining. And if they have a privy, that saves you from having to dig a hole. When I get around to doing the Smokies section of the AT I'll stay in them, although I may try using some of the tips here to legally tent near them.

As for solitude, I would recommend going to one of the National Forests in the area for that. I don't think you're going to get much solitude on the AT. The AT is more of a social experience, and even in really nasty weather during the "off season" I have still run into several people out there. I would suggest Slickrock Creek or something in that vicinity if you want some solitude.

[TACKLE]

The Smokies are beautiful. It's a love/hate thing. It poured everyday(it's a rainforest) and the shelters were full every night. Met the nicest people,saw 7 bears and a bobcat the 1st day out of Fontana. GO FOR IT!

[airinpie]

As for solitude, I would recommend going to one of the National Forests in the area for that. I don't think you're going to get much solitude on the AT. The AT is more of a social experience, and even in really nasty weather during the "off season" I have still run into several people out there. I would suggest Slickrock Creek or something in that vicinity if you want some solitude.

When I say that I want to get away from people, I just mean large groups of them. I don't mind hanging out with other hikers on the trail. Last time we tried to hike up to Mt. LeConte in the Smokies, we couldn't even find a parking spot within 2 miles of the trailhead. That's what I mean by "crowded"

[GBlaylock]

The Greenbrier area of GSMNP is the least crowded area of the park. Lots of trail and campsites.

[airinpie]

well, it looks like we're going to try the shelter thing out if at all possible. my parents are moving to india and that might force us to re-plan our trip. i guess i'll never know if i like the shelters if i don't try it. hey, it's only 3 nights. anyone can handle it for 3 nights, right? thanks for all the advice!

[deeddawg]

Last time we tried to hike up to Mt. LeConte in the Smokies, we couldn't even find a parking spot within 2 miles of the trailhead. That's what I mean by "crowded"

Sounds like you tried the Alum Cave trailhead. That's where a lot of the folks park when going to LeConte Lodge. That trail gets pretty busy with dayhikers plus the folks coming down from or going up to the lodge.

You'll likely find a different experience depending on whether you're there on a weekend vs. middle of the week. When I did Fontana to Davenport a couple weeks ago, on only three nights were the shelters nearly full. And except for close to Clingmans Dome and Newfound Gap, I didn't encounter many people on the trail itself.