Good article on the first stretch of an AT thru-hike.
Getting over the hump
April 28, 2004
Stamford Advocate
By Doug Bisset
On Hump Mountain in Tennessee, I had my first encounter with fearsome wildlife. The mountain is a grassy bald standing at 5,500 feet. The top was deforested a century ago and offers spectacular views of the countryside.
As I began my descent, I came across six bulls with large horns, a cow and two calves basking in the sun. I asked them what they were doing 5,000 feet up a mountainside. After a while on the trail, you start to talk to animals and inanimate objects -- and if you stay out here too long, they'll start responding.
One of the bulls took a step forward, tail wagging in a cautionary way, and stared me down. He stomped his front hoof to signal a warning for me to steer clear of his young. Seeing he wasn't in the mood for conversation, I skirted around the group. I wanted to take a picture, but decided against it for fear of being the first Appalachian Trail hiker to be killed by farm animals.
I'm writing from Hampton, Tenn., on a pivotal 120-mile section of trail from Erwin, Tenn., to Damascus, Va. Reaching Damascus is a giant stepping stone for hikers. Almost 500 miles will be under our feet and easier grades in Virginia's rolling hills lie ahead. Statistically, it will give us a more than 80 percent chance of reaching Mount Katahdin in the northern end in Maine -- a huge psychological boost.
Unfortunately, the distance to Damascus has been foreboding to several tired trekkers, with some of the most difficult climbs yet. Many, in fact, decided to call it quits in Erwin after enduring another snowstorm and feeling too exhausted to push on. Others, dreading the daunting miles ahead, chose to take shortcuts, beginning what's known as a blue-blazing or yellow-blazing epidemic.
The Appalachian Trail is marked end to end by white blazes. A white-blazer, or "purist," makes it a point to walk every step of the official trail. A hiker who blue-blazes takes an alternate path to bypass a part of the trail and get where they're going faster.
Yellow-blazing is skipping sections of trail altogether and catching a ride up the road. Some chose to yellow-blaze a 20-mile portion leading up Roan Mountain, Tenn., when they heard it was the toughest terrain on the trail so far.
For many hikers, taking shortcuts is a temporary means to mental rejuvenation. Once they're farther up the trail and feeling more fit, they'll likely stick to white blazes. Some, however, will blue-blaze as much as possible. They're still walking to Maine but are more than willing to take an easier route if they can find one.
Then there are a select few who become consistent yellow-blazers. They'll hike a day or two, then hitch a ride to the next town north when they've had enough. These individuals are called "tour hikers" because they spend most of their time -- and money -- playing tourist in the nearby cities. Typically, they don't stay on the trail for more than a couple of months.
The decision to blue-blaze or remain "pure" is personal for each hiker. No judgment is passed out here for how others conduct their trip.
The typical philosophy is "Hike your own hike." For me, there is no other option this time than to be a purist. During my former through-hike, there were a couple of occasions when I took a shorter route to get into town more quickly -- thoughts of a shower, real food and clean clothes can overwhelm you in the woods. Eventually, I regretted these actions.
Though most would say the shortcuts weren't a big deal, I still felt I compromised something.
My decision to be a purist is weighted more in knowing that I'm walking for Waterside School this time. Waterside sets a high standard of excellence for its students, emphasizing that, to succeed in life, you cannot take shortcuts, avoid obstacles, make excuses or compromise your values. How could I honorably represent the school if I did not live by the same standards out here? Waterside's code, and promising vision, will remain the driving force in my steps.
-- Doug Bisset of Stamford is hiking the 2,174-mile length of the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine to raise funds for Waterside School, a private day school for low-income children. Donations may be sent by downloading a pledge form at www.watersideschool.org/ community.html