New Knife
I'm looking at getting a new knife and was wondering if anyone knows how well titanium hold an edge.
This is the knife,
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=27571
Without knowing the Rockwell Hardness of the blade, your question is impossible to answer with any accuracy. The specs shown on the site you provided do not give hardness information.
I would not buy a knife in this price range without Rockwell Hardness info.
EDIT: Adding to my suspicion of the quality of this knife is the statement that the blade is "corrosion-resistant". Titanium does not rust. It is a shiny, lustrous metal. So, I question the amount of titanium in the alloy used to make this knife. When no details of materials or their properties (Rockwell scale) are given, it's probably safe to say the manufacturer doesn't want us to know. Buyer beware.
Roland
Some metallurgist's call Titanium "an over glorified aluminum". Sure it's strong, light weight, and anti-magnetic (that's why military bomb disposal experts use titanium probes) but it's not the best knife material for holding an edge.
"Fish Camp Woman.... Baby, I like the way you smell"
- Unknown Hinson
Checklist Criteria for Knife:
□ Is it a knife?
□ Does it cut things?
up over the hills, theres nothing to fear
theres a pub across the way with whisky and beer
its a lengthy journey on the way up to the top
but it ain't so bad if you have a great big bottle o'scotch
Thread drift warning:Originally Posted by Spokes
What is the best knife material for holding an edge?
Love people and use things; never the reverse.
Mt. Katahdin would be a lot quicker to climb if its darn access trail didn't start all the way down in Georgia.
High Carbon Steel, but it may not be the best choice in the field. If not properly maintained, it will eventually rust.
Roland
Ditto.............. high carbon steel
"Fish Camp Woman.... Baby, I like the way you smell"
- Unknown Hinson
The best amount of carbon and temper also depends on whether or not you are going to be doing any whacking or prying with it. For whacking and prying you need more toughness, which usually means less hardness, so you may have to sharpen it more often. A knife made out of a hacksaw blade, for example, would be brittle. If you are going to use the blade around fire also, you have to figure out whether this might change the temper. Fun stuff.
Not sure about titanium. I understand it is light, and strong, and corrossion resistant, and has very good properties at very high temperatures. I am not sure about hardness and toughness though, which are the most important properties for a blade. Hard to beat carbon steel for toughness.
Actually, for low temperatures, high carbon steel could have toughness issues if you ever do work outside below 0F or so. I would look into that before doing any whacking or prying. I would imagine medium carbon steels might be better in some applications.
beware of companies that try to reinvent the wheel....
Ahh it's definatly lightweight, Ok so its not carbon steel. I take issue with the missing point. The knapping end is interesting. I think it would make an interesting piece amongst your gear.
Dogs are excellent judges of character, this fact goes a long way toward explaining why some people don't like being around them.
Woo
Here is my recent purchase:
2.8 oz 3 1/4 blade (folding & Lock)
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...equestid=42476
Dogs are excellent judges of character, this fact goes a long way toward explaining why some people don't like being around them.
Woo
The original Mora knives had a laminated blade. The core was very hard carbon steel, laminated to mild steel on the outsides. The blade was also quite thick. Their marketing showed pictures of the blade being driven through a bolt, and bent 90 degrees in a vice without breaking or chipping the edge. I don't know if I would try any stunts like that, but my Mora blade has never chipped, and holds an edge forever. Also, so long as the blade has a high polish, carbon steel is quite rust resistant in ordinary use. Just clean it and store it dry.
On the other hand: The best overall non-laminated blade material is probably a hardening grade of tool steel, or some other high alloy steel. Properties are rust resistance, maybe not entirely stainless, very high hardness coupled with toughness. There are quite a few to choose from.
The reason stainless blades have a bad reputation is that 18-8 stainless and other austenitic alloys aren't hard enough to hold an edge like high carbon steels. However they are tough and bright even when not maintained well. But sharpening on a stone or steel used with carbon steel knives can degrade the stainless properties of the edge.
Another ancient technique for combining hard edges with tough body is differential hardening. This is the secret behind Japanese swordsmithing, and I think some high end modern knives are made this way using laser hardening. The Saracen blades were made by a technique of welding together high carbon with mild steel in a multilayer structure. This is commercially called Damascus steel, and was used in the early 20th century for shotgun barrels, among other things. Had a pretty figure in the finish, but was susceptible to corrosion failure, so few of those barrels are still in use: not suitable for smokeless powder loads.
Steel is complex and very interesting stuff. A long history and an active metallurgical study.
In my opinion, far more practical than the knife in question....and a fraction of the cost.
Roland
You mean the Mora? I am not sure I follow the thought here.
Dogs are excellent judges of character, this fact goes a long way toward explaining why some people don't like being around them.
Woo
I think you'd be better off with something like Wise Old Owl suggested, or even a Ka Bar Becker Necker.
VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY51g...layer_embedded
http://www.coldsteel.com/tilite.html
Same weight, cheaper, no need for a sheath, reliable brand, and much more practical than that frankenstein knife. (Zytel, 4 Inch)
Plus it's legal in most, if not all states.
It is stainless steel though, which has the advantage of rust resistance, and the disadvantage of not holding an edge as well as carbon steel.
The hooks you see serve as a quick opening feature, allowing the knife to be opened with one hand using the pocket of your jeans.
"Do you believe in an afterlife?" the gunslinger asked him as Brown dropped three ears of hot corn onto his plate.
Brown nodded. "I think this is it."
All You Need on the Trail
"Fish Camp Woman.... Baby, I like the way you smell"
- Unknown Hinson
Actually, I was responding to you about the Cabelas knife you posted, but GGS2 stepped between our posts.
But, I do own a Mora, and that too is a great value.
Roland
The little Wenger that Spokes posted is all I carry most of the time. If I figure I need more knife for some reason, I might take a lock-back (I have a nice Swiss style one), or my trusty Mora. But that's only for when I might have something serious to cut, like a tree, or some fish. Just walking, you don't need much knife. Those classy lock-backs are nice, but I think they're more for looking at and flipping around than for using to cut with. I have a really nice Russel for that. Beautiful knife.
If you don't think those blades are for cutting, you aught to watch the video. =]
"Do you believe in an afterlife?" the gunslinger asked him as Brown dropped three ears of hot corn onto his plate.
Brown nodded. "I think this is it."
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