Had the chance to sneak away for a night last week and wow - saw more bears in a 36 hr stretch than I have in 15 years of hiking in the park. Hiked from Thornton Gap to the 4H Center (with help from MV Shuttle) and I wasnt 100 yds into the park when I saw 2 huge bears sitting up in a tree. But as with most all bears I've seen in SNP they scrambled down and took off at first hearing me. And damn, there is a reason they say dont run from bears, they are FAST! Saw another one just South of Elkwallow and there are at least two if not more that seem to live in the clearing next to the Gravel Springs Hut.
Made good time to Elkwallow and took an hour for lunch and a blackberry shake. Met a SOBO hiker there who had flipflopped and seemed to be enjoying a nap under a tree. Got into GSH @ 430 or so. Left early and was at the 4H Center by 1p Friday.
Trail seemed in good shape overall. There are a few spots in that area where IMO it could be better marked but nothing major.
Springs seemed to be hit or miss. A couple I visited were barely running or not usable at all. Stayed at Gravel Springs and that one was fine. So I thought initially I would be carrying too much water but that turned out to be a good idea.
GSH was in good shape. There was a sign there that I'd not seen at any of the huts before - that "all backcountry huts" are for people who are out for "3 nights or more". Two of the three of us that ended up staying there were only out for one night and we agreed not to turn ourselves in. Had set up my tent and was carrying it up to the campsite when I ran into my first bear - so threw the tent into the shelter and tried to wait him out. Also saw them that night and the next morning in the clearing. You could also hear them flipping over rocks and clawing at trees just outside the clearing.
Also heard a few coyotes howling at the full moon Thursday night. That was pretty cool.
Overall a great couple days, couldnt have asked for better weather.