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  1. #1

    Exclamation I seriously need advice sewing 2 layers of 2" poly webbing

    I have tried and tried. When I sew two layers of dense poly webbing together, instead of making a long straight line, it curves, or if I force it to stay on the straight line, then the opposite has ripples. I don't know what to do. The idea is a layer of fabric is to be sandwiched in between like an edging. Do I need to revamp the design and go with a different webbing or is there a tip to get it to sew where it stays straight? I have the edges matched, tried different thread, use 69 poly upholstery non rot thread, and still a long piece say 30" or longer will come out curved.
    I did notice no one mentioned owfinc.com for parts, patterns and long list of stuff.

  2. #2

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    There are several here that sew,but may not be on line right,Keep checking back,I know someone has the answer your looking for.cheers

  3. #3

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    It's probably the webbing. Can you post a pic?
    Quilteresq
    2013, hopefully.

  4. #4
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    You might talk to a local shoe repair or tailor shop. They sometimes have the industrial model heavy-duty machines that can handle that material easily. My daughter is a professional seamstress and she bought one second-hand that'll sew through 8 layers of denim.

  5. #5

    Default I have a heavy duty machine

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket Jones View Post
    You might talk to a local shoe repair or tailor shop. They sometimes have the industrial model heavy-duty machines that can handle that material easily. My daughter is a professional seamstress and she bought one second-hand that'll sew through 8 layers of denim.

    It doesn't seem to have problems with the layers. Was wondering if there is a right side and wrong side to webbing. Have been asking anyone, now waiting a reply from OWF as they use it also in the gear they make. I can see if I can get pic. My camera is gone with son, but phone might do. I am so frustrated with it.

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    When you sew webbing, here are some things you can do to ensure a straight line.

    first, enlarge the stitch length, that is, if you're sewing with 12 stitches to the inch,
    change it to 6 stitches per inch.

    The next is to use pins, lots and lots and lots of pins. They may need to be sturdy to
    go through the webbing.

    Next, you can hand stitch; that is, use the side knob/turner with your right hand, as
    opposed to using the pedal. The slower you go, the more accurate you can be.

    Make sure that your tension between top and bottom feed are set properly.
    Last edited by LeeAllure; 05-26-2012 at 01:15.

  7. #7

    Default I think it is. I did try long stitching.

    Quote Originally Posted by quilteresq View Post
    It's probably the webbing. Can you post a pic?
    I think you are right. Either 1" or 2" one layer laid out cannot hold a stright line. It curves. Even at 20" they both curve. I guess it is revamp the design. Thank you all for your hekp and many happy hours if enjoying God's xreation! I camp and hike here but have a good friend out there who has invited me.

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    First, do you really need the strength of webing? Would wide grossgrain ribbon do the job--might be easier to sew.

    Second, the curve may be caused by uneven feeding of the material between the foot that holds the material down and the teeth underneath that feed the material along as you sew. You might experiment with feeding the material through by hand leaving the foot in its raised position--like embroidery.

  9. #9

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    The shoe repair shops have heavy-duty sewing machines.

    A walking foot sewing machine can handle two layers of webbing, if good tension adjustment. There are feed dogs on the bottem layer of any sewing machine. A walking foot sewing machine has feed dogs on the top layer as well. The feed dogs, top and bottem, are synchronized.

    There are household-type sewing machines have add-on feed dogs said to work well.

    My Pfaff Hobby 301 has an add-on feed dog available, at eBay. I haven't tried it.

    I would rather take a small job like that to a shoe repair shop.

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    Not sure about your problem, but I have used kraft paper (cut up a brown paper grocery bag) to help me with stitching problems. Run it through as if it's an extra layer of fabric. After running a line of stitching, it simply tears out like a perforated piece of paper does.

    Rain Man

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    [I]ye shall not pollute the land wherein ye are: ... Defile not therefore the land which ye shall inhabit....[/I]. Numbers 35

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeAllure View Post
    Make sure that your tension between top and bottom feed are set properly.
    I think that is why the curving is occuring. They need to be equal.

    .

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    There are many reasons it's curving, as others have said, your machine may not be able to handle the webbing, if your stitches are too short you are forcing extra thread into the webbing pushing the edge out, you are also using a very heavy thread - is your needle large enough to handle it? (Just what ARE you trying to do?) How dense is the webbing? You probably need a puller on the machine to keep it straight - not having a puller, you need to become one - ie- pull the webbing from the back of the presser foot as you are sewing it, go down to a smaller size thread - size 46. What fabric do you have sandwiched in between the 2 layers of webbing? is it slick? that would cause the bottom to feed in more than the top layer. With this heavy of a load going into the machine, without an industrial machine you probably can't get a balanced tension.

    Have you tried to sew down both sides of the webbing to see if it straightens out the curve?

    The 'curve' is because you are shortening the edge with the sewing - When you straighten it and the other edge gets wavy - this is because they are different lengths, the side sewn is shorter - pull it from the back of the presser foot would be my first suggestion. This will keep the heavy thread from scrunching up the fabric - also, try loosening the top tension, and do you know how to check the bobbing tension and adjust it? Pullers are fantastic, I have them on 2 of my machines, couldn't live without them.
    Judy aka HeartFire - LightHeart Gear

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Man View Post
    Not sure about your problem, but I have used kraft paper (cut up a brown paper grocery bag) to help me with stitching problems. Run it through as if it's an extra layer of fabric. After running a line of stitching, it simply tears out like a perforated piece of paper does.

    Rain Man

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    Thats pretty slick there Rain Man,I've only sewed a few times in my life,but can absolutely appreciate the ease of that little trick.Big Oh Yeaaaah coming your way.

  14. #14
    Registered User gunner76's Avatar
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    Why do you need two layers ?
    Hammock Hanger by choice

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    Quote Originally Posted by rocketsocks View Post
    Thats pretty slick there Rain Man,I've only sewed a few times in my life,but can absolutely appreciate the ease of that little trick.Big Oh Yeaaaah coming your way.
    Necessity be the mother of invention!

    RainMan

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