Snowshoes

[flyefysch]

Out of season, I know, but I am going to be buying snowshoes sometime in the near future (either this season or next) and was wondering what different opinions/experiences people had with different types of snowshoes. Mainly, I want to know what people think of the new snowshoes (i.e. aluminum, titanium) versus the traditional wood frames. From what I've seen the newer ones seem to be more versatile and able to carry more weight on a smaller shoe, but I have to admit that there is something kinda sexy about the traditional wood. I weigh about 170lbs and am guessing that (though I would be starting with shorter jaunts through the woods) I would eventually need a pair that would be able to handle up to 200-220lbs, as I know that I'd need to carry more weight on the winter camping I hope to do, eventually. Any advice or feedback is greatly appreciated.

[MedicineMan]

Here is what I carry now if i think it will be deep snow:

http://www.northernlites.com/elite.htm#Top

I used them 4 weeks ago from Elk Garden to Va.Hwy 58 at Summit Cut...may seem strange but even in the south there are parts of the trail that can get a deluge of snow.

To compare the Northernlites with my 'old' wooden models is like comparing the Wright Bro's plane with the Concorde...plus I chose the Northernlites Elite because of 'what if scenarios', for example if I were to head for the Smokies in Mid-March and the Weather Channel was showing anything that way I would carry them...they are tech. too small for my body weight but then again they do offer excellent flotation and have proven to keep me from sinking.

[weary]

[QUOTE=MedicineMan....too small for my body weight but then again they do offer excellent flotation and have proven to keep me from sinking.[/QUOTE]
Snowshoes that provide "excellent flotation" are not "too small for (the owner's body weight."

In my experience, most people buy snowshoes that are larger, heavier, and thus more awkward than needed. Most snowshoe weight charts that I've seen recommend shoes that are too large. If you are doing a lot of solo trips on fresh snow maybe the large sizes are justified. But most times you are with a group in the winter and take turns breaking trail (very hard work). Or you are using a trail that has already been broken by someone, either on foot or on a snowmobile.

However, I still use my old wooden modified bearpaws on the theory they have served me well for 40 years. And who knows how many before me. I bought them at a yard sale.

Weary

[art to linda]

I think the biggest advantage of the tec snow shoes would be weight if you would be carrying them part of the time.... as for me I have a home made pair of Ojibwa style (wooden) that I love. Most of the places I go have no trail, and I solo, it's break my own trail and they haven't let me down yet.

[Tramper Al]

And snowshoes that are too small do not provide excellent floatation.

I snowshoe on and off the AT in northern New England. Within the class of the 'new snowshoes', for climbing mountains we favor those with aggressive crampons. I have Northern Lite Elites (25") and Atlas 1233s (30"), and I weight about 180 lbs without gear.

In deep snow, for solo or significant trail breaking, 25" is inadequate for your/my weight, particularly with a heavy winter pack. You want to at least do your part when it comes to group trail breaking, yes? If you barely needed snowshoes in the first place on a packed trail, or are carrying them just in case, the lightweight 25"ers are great.

[Peaks]

Part of your answer depends on where you are going. In deep soft snow you need more floatation then in old snow that has settled.

The advantages of the aluminum frame snowshoes over the traditional wood frame snow shoes is lighter weight, better bindings, and crampon (and no maintenance)

A crampon isn't needed if the terrain is flat. However, it sure helps if there is some climbing involved.

Some people recommend the MSR snow shoe because you can drop the tail off if the snow isn't real soft. Plus, it tracks better when trying to go across the slope.

[weary]

Part of your answer depends on where you are going. In deep soft snow you need more floatation then in old snow that has settled.

The advantages of the aluminum frame snowshoes over the traditional wood frame snow shoes is lighter weight, better bindings, and crampon (and no maintenance)

A crampon isn't needed if the terrain is flat. However, it sure helps if there is some climbing involved.

Some people recommend the MSR snow shoe because you can drop the tail off if the snow isn't real soft. Plus, it tracks better when trying to go across the slope.

There is a weight difference between wood and aluminum. But it's getting less and less as the new shoes are refined and features added. I checked sometime ago, but forget the figures. I do remember being surprised by just how small the difference was.

I use a pair of instep crampons on my snowshoes. I flattened the uprights in a vice and fastened them to the snowshoes with plastic covered 14 guage electrical wire. They work well.

No snowshoe works well in recently fallen powder snow. Nor wet snow for that matter. But as powder settles or wet snow develops a crust things get much better.

One of the hardest days I ever spent in the woods occurred during a pioneer February trip through Baxter State Park 30 years or so ago. We started at the northern Matagammon gate; walked 11 miles to South Branch Ponds; then 8 to Russell Pond, another 8 to Roaring Brook, and finally 11 miles out to Togue Pond.

A wet snow developed the second day enroute to Russell Pond. Every other step it seems I was kicking off an extra five pounds of water-logged snow. I arrived at Russell about dusk, cooked and ate supper and then headed back out on the trail to find three skiers who were even slower than I was. They finally showed up around 10 p.m.

As far as we could tell we were the first group to ever do such a winter traverse of the park, but such things are really hard to know for sure.

Most groups, then and now, are into skiing, and follow the perimeter road with it's snowmobile beaten surface. I'll always prefer the trail route.

Weary

[Mags]

Before buying any snowshoes for full price, check with your local outdoor store. Many places that rent snowshoes have a two year cycle of selling off the rentals.

You can buy a pair of snow shoes that normally costs $150-$200 for $20-$25!

This is the time of the year where they will often off load them. EMS, REI and others have rentals. Just call them up. Many ski stores also rent snowshoes also and will often offload their rentals as well. The rentals are usually in good condition.

I purchased my backcountry touring skis and boots for $45 this way a few years ago. That's over $400 worth of gear for 1/10 the price!

["ME & U"]

We use MSR Denali Ascents and love em. The flotation isn't great but the wt, crampons, and packability proves very useful in our treks. Worth checking out.