Olympic National Park trails

[1234]

I am trying to plan a trip to this park. July 10 to 22
The plan is to start at 3rd beach go down to HOH then hitch up to the hoh rain forrest trail to hike up to mt Olympus then back down across part to go out at Sol Duc or Elow area. Does anyone have experiance with this park? Are shuttles available, permits obtainable etc. I know I must carry the bear keg for food.

[Dogwood]

There are different bus companies that will take you around the entire Olympic Peninsula on Rt 101. There is a bus you can transfer from in Forks(good base camp site for this area of the peninsula, grocery store, hotels, permits, maps, trail info) that takes you to LaPush(3rd beach), your start pt. Personally, I like Rialto beach area more and going north along the beach, but it involves a hitch from the Rt 110(La Push road) at the Mora Rd junction down to Rialto Beach. The Ouillayute River near its mouth between Rialto Beach and LaPush is too deep to ford. I tried despite being told not to do it. I don't think the HOH River is fordable near its mouth either. You can hitch up to either the Bogachiel TH or Hoh Rain Forest/Bogachiel TH from Oil City. I never found it hard to hitch around the Peninsula.

I've wanted to hike the Hoh River/Bogachiel/SolDuc Trails and explore the Seven Lakes region. I've been shut out because of deep snow conditions at the very end of June twice. Check trail conditions at www.nps before you go! The beaches never become unpassable because of deep snow.

Bear canisters required in many ares. The rangers check for them as well as permits.

The Trails Illustrated Olympic NP map is well done for on trail hiking.

Definitely check out the hot springs.

[Egads]

I went up on 07.

I love the park. Definitely hit the NW beaches & the high country. The hot springs were a huge disappointment.

The rangers were very edgy and aggressively discouraging high country hikes since a hiker was 1 week overdue. No ice axe, crampons, etc...She was found in hiding about 2 weeks later. Probably more to the story...

[sarbar]

Permits are easy and you can do them usually 30 days in advance. Call the WIC in Port Angeles for everything. Olympic does charge for the permit and by night/per person but they do have a cap on fees which is nice. The fees DO stay in the park though and if you are broke they will work with you. As well you can rent a Garcia canister for $3 for your whole trip. Olympic has only recently made canisters more required in the past year or two (though they were long required on the coast).

As for maps? Get Custom Correct maps - they are the best out there for the Olympics. They lay the maps out so you need less of them - for example covering a whole valley. http://www.customcorrectmaps.com/ They are also sold at all RS in the Olympics.

Good news: We are having a low snow year due to the El Nino this year. But, that means rain not snow this winter so DO expect some trail damage though most of it is doable. Especially in the low valleys.

As for the rivers...down by the beaches the big ones are NOT fordable. You can sometimes pay the locals to ferry you across. But don't count on it. If you are coming out at Oil City there is a trail though up to Hwy 101. Hitching is doable, just be patient. Now though....the road into Hoh is pretty far off Hwy 101. You might be sitting at the corner of that road for quite some time - tourists are not so keen on giving hikers rides. It is er.....18 miles in? (Give or take!) But it is doable, just make sure you build in time.

The Hoh River trail is very nice, official BP camping sites start within 1/2 mile of the trailhead. The miles go fast as it is relatively flat to the turn off for the Hoh Lake Trail - that is the trail to go uphill. Be prepared for a hot climb in an old burn and carry water. Hoh Lake is very pretty. The only warning is that as you reach the High Divide up above, to connect with Sol Duc, Bogie Peak can hold snow. This year? Probably not too bad. Just take your time. Sol Duc is a nice trail (loop) either way. And it is worth it to keep going instead to Appleton Pass and come out via Elwha at the hot springs.

Either one will lead to a road walk to get out of the park, but in July these are all busy areas. While some like the hot springs at Elwha....just remember they are natural and can get skanky. So dip at your own risk with the naked old dudes

Hitchhiking isn't illegal in Washington (unless marked) but can be frowned upon by the park. As well, look up where all the prisons are (there are 3 over there). Hitchhiking is NOT allowed near them on Hwy 101 for good reason...lol!


As for the section of the Hoh Trail from the turnoff to Hoh Lake up to the meadows at Olympus, do check on conditions before that part - they keep it maintained but it does have washouts yearly. And don't count on bridges or shelters either. The shelters are not kept up and some have recently fallen in.

The High Divide though is pure gorgeous. You might consider heading down to 7 Lakes Basin for the night.....

[sarbar]

BTW...on the rangers at the WIC. I won't names but us locals out here know who the morons are that work there. The stories that a certain ranger spins to visiting hikers is legendary BS by the truckload.
If you get a ranger spinning his yarns, cut him off politely and demand your permits! Especially if he starts his tales of man eating mountain goats and rabid marmots. Lord.

[Lyndz1989]

I went in 07 and 09.. i love it. The rainforest is def. worth seeing.. you will see signs for the hot springs, dont bother.. they turned it into a swimming pool so you have to pay to enter it. Another thing I love seeing there is the cost down rt. 101 (i think thats the rt # but its the only road so it wouldnt be hard to find). Its amazing how you are in the woods and every so often is an out cove and there is ocean. totally different than east coast. And all the drift wood and mini islands. Washington is one of my favorite states! Good luck on your trip.

[sarbar]

I went in 07 and 09.. i love it. The rainforest is def. worth seeing.. you will see signs for the hot springs, dont bother.. they turned it into a swimming pool so you have to pay to enter it.

There are TWO sets of hot springs folks! The swimming pool ones have been pools for a very long time and are part of the resort run at Sol Duc. These are as I mentioned a resort and run via a lease with the NP.

The actual hot springs I mentioned way above are in the Elwha, up the old hot springs road now a trail. Those are actual hot springs, tubs carved out of the ground. Some are hotter than others, etc. You can backpack and camp nearby. When looking for the Elwha ones look on the right side of Lake Mills on the Elwha River (though soon to be gone as the dams are very close finally to coming down) and follow the road uphill. The main Elwha River Trail is off of Whiskey Bend Rd, on the left side of the river. (A fine hike almost year round and is very close to Port Angeles.)

Technically Sol Duc and Elwha are not rainforests. Hoh, Quinalt, Queets are though. The coastal strip is included in the rain forests in areas as well, as the trees run right down to the waterline. It isn't uncommon in some areas to see bears on the sand looking for dinner.

[unclemjm]

There are different bus companies that will take you around the entire Olympic Peninsula on Rt 101. There is a bus you can transfer from in Forks(good base camp site for this area of the peninsula, grocery store, hotels, permits, maps, trail info) that takes you to LaPush(3rd beach), your start pt.

Any specific names, recomendations, or sources for bus info?

[sarbar]

http://www.clallam.net/features/visitor.html
http://www.co.jefferson.wa.us/Default.htm
http://www.co.grays-harbor.wa.us/Index.asp

[sarbar]

To which I meant to add: the bus lines are all county run, ferries are state run here.

Forks has a major bus terminal for transit - it is relatively new and has a sheltered indoor area with bathrooms. When I say "major" do realize that the Olympic Peninsula is extremely rural. Forks is halfway between Port Angeles and Aberdeen/Hoqiuam. PA is the biggest and by big....er, yeah. I lived on one of the Islands out there for a good 13 or so years and everyone is on Island time, be it Islands or mainland Peninsula.
In Forks the Thriftway on the far end of town is the choice for supplies. It houses a grocery store, an outfitter and a hardware store - and they actually carry a very good selection of everything a person could need at normal prices.

The only downside to Forks is the over running by Twilight fans - we don't go out as often anymore due to it. I have always wondered how freaked out those girls get when they come there finally and find out.....Forks is/was a logging town and not a resort town. Which I might add means that every meal you eat out there in town can feed 2 normal humans

[1234]

This is amazing!! GREAT info. I am learning much. I was here ONP 2 years ago for only 1/2 day walked out on Ruby beach and did the short trail through HOH, and drove up to hurricane ridge. I fell in love with it. I lived in Longwood in 1969 our front picture window looked stright out at the Olympic mt. and I never got to go there. I went to Briarwood Jr high school the year before it opened. Any way is my timing OK, June 10-21??? The place was a ghost town 2 yr ago during this time and the weather was 70 degrees every day and we had 100% blue skies. I ordered the Nat geo map. and a trails book written in 2008? I figure longest day of the year and no crowds. I understand it is very dense fog every night and most points are low tide only to hike so I will get tide tables. Will leather books be ok, or do I want beach wet merrills? Someone said said they were stopped 2 times due to snow???? I looks like most trains follow the valleys.

[sarbar]

On shoes.....the coastal strip can be very tiring on ankles - due the slope of the beach and that it can be big slimy rocks, or pebbles. Hard packed sand is a blessing when you get it! Tides are good in late June, many low ones. You can often get the tide charts for free online, just Google them Though a tide book is tiny and cheap at most stores near the water out here!

When on rocks on the coast be careful, when "dry" they can be like ice.

Now though...for valley hiking? I wear trail runners with aggressive tread. No need for boots.

The Olympics are rarely overrun once you get a mile or so from the car. That is a blessing indeed! Partly due to how remote the area is and how far from Seattle. This keeps crowds down. And that many of the entrances to the park are so far in off the Hwy doubles that. Many people have no desire to drive in 18 miles each way to just take a lookie loo. Which is good for us hikers!

Btw, for gorgeous hiking up high...starting at Obstruction Point is breath taking.

But on the dates? For valley hiking late June is great. It is warm but not hot, water is flowing still. The bugs come out in the valleys in April and May often (I have backpacked in the Hoh in every season and I love early spring....)

Btw, Olympus Guard Station is a great camping area on the Hoh trail - about 9 miles down the trail. Very peaceful (it is right before the turn off for Hoh Lake).

[Dogwood]

If you hike the beaches the ranger stations supply tide charts when you get your permits.

Thank you Sarbar for clearing up the questions about bus lines and hot springs. Some hot springs like the ones carved out of the rocks can be great. The resort ones are touristy but the Sol Duc one I was to was nice anyway.

When I mention snow it has been in the Seven Lakes Basin at the very end of June. This is the high country. THs at Boachiel, Sol Duc, Hoh, Elhwa, etc are at lower elev usually in valleys but they gain elev to get up to places like Appleton Pass. In mid July snow shouldn't stop a hiker even higher up.

[sarbar]

Yeah..normally I wouldn't recommend the high country in the Olympics till mid-July but this year has been of pathetic snow levels.

Hurricane Ridge Rd. had a huge blowout on it below the park entrance (the entire road is gone, calved off) leaving that part of the park closed. The ONP is good at repairing roads though and they figure it will be fixed by spring. There were all these people whining about not being able to go skiing/snowshoeing up there this winter...and all I could think was "On WHAT snow?" Let just say there is a lot of meadow exposed this year. El Nino years bring often an early dumping (which it did this year) but then by December it warms up and brings either nothing up high or rain or rain/snow.

OTOH...this has been a good year for avalanche safety. We had a recent year where there were 11 people killed in one season by avies here in Washington. That was an awful year. This year? None if I am right. There isn't unstable snow. If this year follows past El Nino years it will be an early hiking season up high. Yes, in some areas snow will hold in Northern facing slopes, in cirque bowls for example and in passes. But overall it will be easier and more so....rivers may be lower during melt off.